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Engine Rebuild
http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=13601		 Page 6 of 8
Author:  birvin [ Fri May 16, 2014 8:54 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
stix wrote:
birvin wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
That's still a sexy lookin Engine to me

Don't tell anybody but I have had "a few sexual events" with it. LOL If you look at the close view you can see that there is plenty of room to get to the plug or the top of the head. You won't be able to look at the Engine compartment and see much but I think that's ok. I'll be glad to ride it again but time is kicking my butt, but Hell I got time. I plan on getting the water hoses today and may get them installed today I hope.
Where did you put your temp gage? I am thinking about on top of the steering wheel above the light switch. That was it is easy to see and can flip on the fan as needed. Thanks Billy


When I had my 350 I mounted my water temp gauge just above the key switch, I used one of those Auto Meter automotive type gauges, like a 2" diameter or something. I really didnt need to look at it much so "in view" wasn't that important to me. The Engine always ran at a normal operating temp, don't remember the temp right off hand though.

I see what you are saying. I will move mine after I make sure that everything is functioning the way I won't it. With this being my first time to water cool one I am just playing on the safe side until I get all of the kinks worked out. The gage I'm using is a 2" gage from a parts store also. Thanks Billy
Author:  birvin [ Sun May 18, 2014 8:30 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
Ok got a new problem, Last night I started my Engine up and it ran for about 10 min. the shut down. I thought I had run out of gas and I had. Poured about a gallon in it and it started right up. But I didn't run it but 2-3 min. Today I started it up and was letting it get up to temp and it ran for about ten min. and shut down. I checked for fire at the plug and it wasn't firing, I installed a new plug and when I cranked it back up it back fired two times then started right up. I knew it wasn't out of timing so my first thought was electrical. I didn't have my manual at my shop, so tomorrow I will start troubleshooting the starting system. I did check my kill switch to make sure it wasn't causing the problem and it wasn't. Thanks Billy
Author:  birvin [ Fri May 23, 2014 9:21 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
I got the electrical problem figured out, it was the coil. Ordered a new one should be here Tuesday or so. But now I have ran into a water leak problem. Today I had to pull the head and cut the top off of it. I found the leak but it is going to be hard to get to. I may end up changing my head and getting longer studs for the head. Does anyone know of a good place to get them? Thanks Billy
Author:  hoser [ Sat May 24, 2014 12:02 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
birvin wrote:
I got the electrical problem figured out, it was the coil. Ordered a new one should be here Tuesday or so. But now I have ran into a water leak problem. Today I had to pull the head and cut the top off of it. I found the leak but it is going to be hard to get to. I may end up changing my head and getting longer studs for the head. Does anyone know of a good place to get them? Thanks Billy


Is their any way to access the place leaking can you clean it out really good, flush with water, blow out with air, blow out with carb cleaner , blow job, blow out with brake cleaner, blow again then try to apply some of that loctite for porosity http://www.henkelna.com/product-search- ... 7953163265

How long of a stud do you need? I would start with a OEM stud I have never seen a quality problem with them other than the cadmium coating fails after about 15-20 years and they rust, sooner if your in a bad environment :-)

Once you figure out the length go here do a search for them like this http://www.partzilla.com/search/?q=BOLT ... 9&x=6&y=12
that was a search for a Honda BOLT, STUD (8X45) (for a Pilot head) need one 50mm then search for BOLT, STUD 8X50 or if you need 60mm BOLT, STUD 8X60 http://www.partzilla.com/search/?q=BOLT ... 60&x=0&y=0
Author:  birvin [ Sat May 24, 2014 9:54 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
hoser wrote:
birvin wrote:
I got the electrical problem figured out, it was the coil. Ordered a new one should be here Tuesday or so. But now I have ran into a water leak problem. Today I had to pull the head and cut the top off of it. I found the leak but it is going to be hard to get to. I may end up changing my head and getting longer studs for the head. Does anyone know of a good place to get them? Thanks Billy


Is their any way to access the place leaking can you clean it out really good, flush with water, blow out with air, blow out with carb cleaner , blow job, blow out with brake cleaner, blow again then try to apply some of that loctite for porosity http://www.henkelna.com/product-search- ... 7953163265

How long of a stud do you need? I would start with a OEM stud I have never seen a quality problem with them other than the cadmium coating fails after about 15-20 years and they rust, sooner if your in a bad environment :-)

Once you figure out the length go here do a search for them like this http://www.partzilla.com/search/?q=BOLT ... 9&x=6&y=12
that was a search for a Honda BOLT, STUD (8X45) (for a Pilot head) need one 50mm then search for BOLT, STUD 8X50 or if you need 60mm BOLT, STUD 8X60 http://www.partzilla.com/search/?q=BOLT ... 60&x=0&y=0

Thanks hoser, but the blow job is out! LOL I' not sure yet on the length just looking for options in case I do change the head configuration. I think the Loctite maybe my best option, it is leaking around the tube that my plug sits in. I plan on cleaning it tomorrow and see if I can fix it, but very hard to get to due to the other tubes. I am thinking of redoing it while I have it off. Up for suggestion's. Thanks Billy
Author:  hoser [ Sat May 24, 2014 10:43 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
birvin wrote:
hoser wrote:
birvin wrote:
I got the electrical problem figured out, it was the coil. Ordered a new one should be here Tuesday or so. But now I have ran into a water leak problem. Today I had to pull the head and cut the top off of it. I found the leak but it is going to be hard to get to. I may end up changing my head and getting longer studs for the head. Does anyone know of a good place to get them? Thanks Billy


Is their any way to access the place leaking can you clean it out really good, flush with water, blow out with air, blow out with carb cleaner , blow job, blow out with brake cleaner, blow again then try to apply some of that loctite for porosity http://www.henkelna.com/product-search- ... 7953163265

How long of a stud do you need? I would start with a OEM stud I have never seen a quality problem with them other than the cadmium coating fails after about 15-20 years and they rust, sooner if your in a bad environment :-)

Once you figure out the length go here do a search for them like this http://www.partzilla.com/search/?q=BOLT ... 9&x=6&y=12
that was a search for a Honda BOLT, STUD (8X45) (for a Pilot head) need one 50mm then search for BOLT, STUD 8X50 or if you need 60mm BOLT, STUD 8X60 http://www.partzilla.com/search/?q=BOLT ... 60&x=0&y=0

Thanks hoser, but the blow job is out! LOL I' not sure yet on the length just looking for options in case I do change the head configuration. I think the Loctite maybe my best option, it is leaking around the tube that my plug sits in. I plan on cleaning it tomorrow and see if I can fix it, but very hard to get to due to the other tubes. I am thinking of redoing it while I have it off. Up for suggestion's. Thanks Billy


Can you get to the leak with JB weld? Pull the inside down into a vacuum with something like a mighty vac let it suck the JB into the bad spot that is leaking?
Author:  canadian oddy [ Sat May 24, 2014 11:17 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
hoser wrote:
birvin wrote:
hoser wrote:
birvin wrote:
I got the electrical problem figured out, it was the coil. Ordered a new one should be here Tuesday or so. But now I have ran into a water leak problem. Today I had to pull the head and cut the top off of it. I found the leak but it is going to be hard to get to. I may end up changing my head and getting longer studs for the head. Does anyone know of a good place to get them? Thanks Billy


Is their any way to access the place leaking can you clean it out really good, flush with water, blow out with air, blow out with carb cleaner , blow job, blow out with brake cleaner, blow again then try to apply some of that loctite for porosity http://www.henkelna.com/product-search- ... 7953163265

How long of a stud do you need? I would start with a OEM stud I have never seen a quality problem with them other than the cadmium coating fails after about 15-20 years and they rust, sooner if your in a bad environment :-)

Once you figure out the length go here do a search for them like this http://www.partzilla.com/search/?q=BOLT ... 9&x=6&y=12
that was a search for a Honda BOLT, STUD (8X45) (for a Pilot head) need one 50mm then search for BOLT, STUD 8X50 or if you need 60mm BOLT, STUD 8X60 http://www.partzilla.com/search/?q=BOLT ... 60&x=0&y=0

Thanks hoser, but the blow job is out! LOL I' not sure yet on the length just looking for options in case I do change the head configuration. I think the Loctite maybe my best option, it is leaking around the tube that my plug sits in. I plan on cleaning it tomorrow and see if I can fix it, but very hard to get to due to the other tubes. I am thinking of redoing it while I have it off. Up for suggestion's. Thanks Billy


Can you get to the leak with JB weld? Pull the inside down into a vacuum with something like a mighty vac let it suck the JB into the bad spot that is leaking?


ur thinkn what I am thinkn. I used JB weld on my head around the sparkplug tube. I couldn't get at it so I jb welded it. It works great.
Author:  birvin [ Sun May 25, 2014 6:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
canadian oddy wrote:
hoser wrote:
birvin wrote:
hoser wrote:
birvin wrote:
I got the electrical problem figured out, it was the coil. Ordered a new one should be here Tuesday or so. But now I have ran into a water leak problem. Today I had to pull the head and cut the top off of it. I found the leak but it is going to be hard to get to. I may end up changing my head and getting longer studs for the head. Does anyone know of a good place to get them? Thanks Billy


Is their any way to access the place leaking can you clean it out really good, flush with water, blow out with air, blow out with carb cleaner , blow job, blow out with brake cleaner, blow again then try to apply some of that loctite for porosity http://www.henkelna.com/product-search- ... 7953163265

How long of a stud do you need? I would start with a OEM stud I have never seen a quality problem with them other than the cadmium coating fails after about 15-20 years and they rust, sooner if your in a bad environment :-)

Once you figure out the length go here do a search for them like this http://www.partzilla.com/search/?q=BOLT ... 9&x=6&y=12
that was a search for a Honda BOLT, STUD (8X45) (for a Pilot head) need one 50mm then search for BOLT, STUD 8X50 or if you need 60mm BOLT, STUD 8X60 http://www.partzilla.com/search/?q=BOLT ... 60&x=0&y=0

Thanks hoser, but the blow job is out! LOL I' not sure yet on the length just looking for options in case I do change the head configuration. I think the Loctite maybe my best option, it is leaking around the tube that my plug sits in. I plan on cleaning it tomorrow and see if I can fix it, but very hard to get to due to the other tubes. I am thinking of redoing it while I have it off. Up for suggestion's. Thanks Billy


Can you get to the leak with JB weld? Pull the inside down into a vacuum with something like a mighty vac let it suck the JB into the bad spot that is leaking?


ur thinkn what I am thinkn. I used JB weld on my head around the sparkplug tube. I couldn't get at it so I jb welded it. It works great.

I'll give it a shot, thanks Billy
Author:  canadian oddy [ Fri May 30, 2014 2:22 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
birvin wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
hoser wrote:
birvin wrote:
hoser wrote:
birvin wrote:
I got the electrical problem figured out, it was the coil. Ordered a new one should be here Tuesday or so. But now I have ran into a water leak problem. Today I had to pull the head and cut the top off of it. I found the leak but it is going to be hard to get to. I may end up changing my head and getting longer studs for the head. Does anyone know of a good place to get them? Thanks Billy


Is their any way to access the place leaking can you clean it out really good, flush with water, blow out with air, blow out with carb cleaner , blow job, blow out with brake cleaner, blow again then try to apply some of that loctite for porosity http://www.henkelna.com/product-search- ... 7953163265

How long of a stud do you need? I would start with a OEM stud I have never seen a quality problem with them other than the cadmium coating fails after about 15-20 years and they rust, sooner if your in a bad environment :-)

Once you figure out the length go here do a search for them like this http://www.partzilla.com/search/?q=BOLT ... 9&x=6&y=12
that was a search for a Honda BOLT, STUD (8X45) (for a Pilot head) need one 50mm then search for BOLT, STUD 8X50 or if you need 60mm BOLT, STUD 8X60 http://www.partzilla.com/search/?q=BOLT ... 60&x=0&y=0

Thanks hoser, but the blow job is out! LOL I' not sure yet on the length just looking for options in case I do change the head configuration. I think the Loctite maybe my best option, it is leaking around the tube that my plug sits in. I plan on cleaning it tomorrow and see if I can fix it, but very hard to get to due to the other tubes. I am thinking of redoing it while I have it off. Up for suggestion's. Thanks Billy


Can you get to the leak with JB weld? Pull the inside down into a vacuum with something like a mighty vac let it suck the JB into the bad spot that is leaking?


ur thinkn what I am thinkn. I used JB weld on my head around the sparkplug tube. I couldn't get at it so I jb welded it. It works great.

I'll give it a shot, thanks Billy


Any updates on this project Billy ??
Author:  birvin [ Fri May 30, 2014 4:23 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
When the coil went out is when I found the leak. so I pulled the head to repair the leak. I got the new coil in along with some other things I ordered and so all I am waiting on is to put it back together. It was running great so when I get it back together I will post the results of how it is doing.

How is your project coming? I read where you got the new cylinder but needed to get a piston. Thanks Billy
Author:  canadian oddy [ Sat May 31, 2014 4:40 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
birvin wrote:
When the coil went out is when I found the leak. so I pulled the head to repair the leak. I got the new coil in along with some other things I ordered and so all I am waiting on is to put it back together. It was running great so when I get it back together I will post the results of how it is doing.

How is your project coming? I read where you got the new cylinder but needed to get a piston. Thanks Billy


I got the cylinder from BS. I am in the process of cutting off the fins and preparing for water cooling.
Mongoose has a 80mm piston in stock and is saving it for me as well as a gasket set. Having a hell of a time trying to bleed the rear brakes on both machines as I have just replaced the caliper seals. It's gona be a while because just to busy around here. All the yo yo's (friends) have something for me to fix. Just finished wiring a buddy's trailer plug on his truck and have to take the kid and friends to trampoline world, dinner and a movie tomorrow. Then off to work for one day (sunday). Then will get a chance to get back at it.
Author:  birvin [ Sat May 31, 2014 8:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
canadian oddy wrote:
birvin wrote:
When the coil went out is when I found the leak. so I pulled the head to repair the leak. I got the new coil in along with some other things I ordered and so all I am waiting on is to put it back together. It was running great so when I get it back together I will post the results of how it is doing.

How is your project coming? I read where you got the new cylinder but needed to get a piston. Thanks Billy


I got the cylinder from BS. I am in the process of cutting off the fins and preparing for water cooling.
Mongoose has a 80mm piston in stock and is saving it for me as well as a gasket set. Having a hell of a time trying to bleed the rear brakes on both machines as I have just replaced the caliper seals. It's gona be a while because just to busy around here. All the yo yo's (friends) have something for me to fix. Just finished wiring a buddy's trailer plug on his truck and have to take the kid and friends to trampoline world, dinner and a movie tomorrow. Then off to work for one day (sunday). Then will get a chance to get back at it.

It sounds like you're time is about like mine. LOL How are you cleaning the aluminum before you start welding? I have been using muriatic acid, then I got to thinking about how I always cleaned engines so I used oven cleaner this time and had less trouble when I started to repair my leak. Thanks Billy
Author:  canadian oddy [ Sun Jun 01, 2014 4:25 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
birvin wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
birvin wrote:
When the coil went out is when I found the leak. so I pulled the head to repair the leak. I got the new coil in along with some other things I ordered and so all I am waiting on is to put it back together. It was running great so when I get it back together I will post the results of how it is doing.

How is your project coming? I read where you got the new cylinder but needed to get a piston. Thanks Billy


I got the cylinder from BS. I am in the process of cutting off the fins and preparing for water cooling.
Mongoose has a 80mm piston in stock and is saving it for me as well as a gasket set. Having a hell of a time trying to bleed the rear brakes on both machines as I have just replaced the caliper seals. It's gona be a while because just to busy around here. All the yo yo's (friends) have something for me to fix. Just finished wiring a buddy's trailer plug on his truck and have to take the kid and friends to trampoline world, dinner and a movie tomorrow. Then off to work for one day (sunday). Then will get a chance to get back at it.

It sounds like you're time is about like mine. LOL How are you cleaning the aluminum before you start welding? I have been using muriatic acid, then I got to thinking about how I always cleaned engines so I used oven cleaner this time and had less trouble when I started to repair my leak. Thanks Billy


I just use a stainless steel wire brush. It seems to work ok for me. I only use this brush for aluminum and nothing else.
Author:  hoser [ Sun Jun 01, 2014 7:43 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
canadian oddy wrote:
birvin wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
birvin wrote:
When the coil went out is when I found the leak. so I pulled the head to repair the leak. I got the new coil in along with some other things I ordered and so all I am waiting on is to put it back together. It was running great so when I get it back together I will post the results of how it is doing.

How is your project coming? I read where you got the new cylinder but needed to get a piston. Thanks Billy


I got the cylinder from BS. I am in the process of cutting off the fins and preparing for water cooling.
Mongoose has a 80mm piston in stock and is saving it for me as well as a gasket set. Having a hell of a time trying to bleed the rear brakes on both machines as I have just replaced the caliper seals. It's gona be a while because just to busy around here. All the yo yo's (friends) have something for me to fix. Just finished wiring a buddy's trailer plug on his truck and have to take the kid and friends to trampoline world, dinner and a movie tomorrow. Then off to work for one day (sunday). Then will get a chance to get back at it.

It sounds like you're time is about like mine. LOL How are you cleaning the aluminum before you start welding? I have been using muriatic acid, then I got to thinking about how I always cleaned engines so I used oven cleaner this time and had less trouble when I started to repair my leak. Thanks Billy


I just use a stainless steel wire brush. It seems to work ok for me. I only use this brush for aluminum and nothing else.


Same here I bought a few stainless brushes and use them only for the aluminum welding its been working good, when I got to the weld repair on the Pilot trans case I could not brush most of it so I sand blasted the weld affected area I was a little apprehensive about doing this since any type of media blasting can impregnate the material into the aluminum, did not seem to be a problem it welded really clean with very little problem.
Author:  birvin [ Sun Jun 01, 2014 9:02 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
I agree the stainless steel brush is a must, I was talking about when you are trying to weld especially on the cast aluminum. It is saturated with oil, gas and other contaminates. I found that if you heat it a little bit then spray it with oven cleaner it will clean out the pours and will weld easier. Next time you have a chance try it on a piece of old aluminum, let me know what you think. I still use a brush before welding if I can get to it.Thanks Billy
Author:  birvin [ Mon Jun 09, 2014 7:17 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
I couldn't get the leak repaired, it was to dirty with contaminates. So I started on another one and this time after learning a lot about tig, cast aluminum, and paying attention to what folks say, it seems to be welding better so maybe this one will work out. I will post up some pics. soon. Thanks Billy
Author:  canadian oddy [ Mon Jun 09, 2014 7:39 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
Didn't the JB weld work on the leak ??
Did you try the JB weld or didn't like the idea ??
It worked great on the very small leak I had on the head and couldn't get to it to weld.
Author:  birvin [ Mon Jun 09, 2014 8:53 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
canadian oddy wrote:
Didn't the JB weld work on the leak ??
Did you try the JB weld or didn't like the idea ??
It worked great on the very small leak I had on the head and couldn't get to it to weld.

I couldn't get it into it. I've used JB weld since I was young. I am machining one sort of like the one you built, with the bolt on top. A lot less areas to get a leak. I guess you could call me a copycat.....LOL Thanks Billy
Author:  birvin [ Wed Jun 18, 2014 8:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild (update)
Ok I have a new problem, I have ran my 350 quiet a bit and have started smelling oil burning. I checked the balancer oil and it was low. I checked for leaks and found none. I pulled the exhaust and checked the piston for oil and it was oil on it and in the exhaust port. I installed a new double-lip seal when I built the Engine, but I have not pulled the clutch yet or the side cover. I plan on tearing into it maybe tomorrow night. I checked the manual and it doesn't say which way the seal is installed. Could I have installed it backwards? Thanks Billy
Author:  canadian oddy [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 3:08 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild (update)
birvin wrote:
Ok I have a new problem, I have ran my 350 quiet a bit and have started smelling oil burning. I checked the balancer oil and it was low. I checked for leaks and found none. I pulled the exhaust and checked the piston for oil and it was oil on it and in the exhaust port. I installed a new double-lip seal when I built the Engine, but I have not pulled the clutch yet or the side cover. I plan on tearing into it maybe tomorrow night. I checked the manual and it doesn't say which way the seal is installed. Could I have installed it backwards? Thanks Billy


Which seal did you put in, was it an original Honda 8mm or the U.K 11mm seal ??
I am not sure if it would make a difference but here is a picture of mine when I installed the
U.K 11mm seal.
My money says you damaged it at install.

Attachments:
Photo0929.jpg
Photo0929.jpg [ 57.15 KiB | Viewed 988 times ]
Author:  birvin [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 8:31 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild (update)
canadian oddy wrote:
birvin wrote:
Ok I have a new problem, I have ran my 350 quiet a bit and have started smelling oil burning. I checked the balancer oil and it was low. I checked for leaks and found none. I pulled the exhaust and checked the piston for oil and it was oil on it and in the exhaust port. I installed a new double-lip seal when I built the Engine, but I have not pulled the clutch yet or the side cover. I plan on tearing into it maybe tomorrow night. I checked the manual and it doesn't say which way the seal is installed. Could I have installed it backwards? Thanks Billy


Which seal did you put in, was it an original Honda 8mm or the U.K 11mm seal ??
I am not sure if it would make a difference but here is a picture of mine when I installed the
U.K 11mm seal.
My money says you damaged it at install.

I put the 8mm seal in and I don't think that I damaged it but there is always that possibility. I will find out tonight, and let you know. You were having problems with oil also wasn't you? At first I thought that I was pulling in the oil from the foam filter and that was why I was smelling it burn, but when I seen the amount of oil I knew it wasn't that. so the only thing left is the seal. Thanks Billy
Author:  hoser [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 8:37 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild (update)
birvin wrote:
Ok I have a new problem, I have ran my 350 quiet a bit and have started smelling oil burning. I checked the balancer oil and it was low. I checked for leaks and found none. I pulled the exhaust and checked the piston for oil and it was oil on it and in the exhaust port. I installed a new double-lip seal when I built the Engine, but I have not pulled the clutch yet or the side cover. I plan on tearing into it maybe tomorrow night. I checked the manual and it doesn't say which way the seal is installed. Could I have installed it backwards? Thanks Billy


Did you install the seal correctly meaning what direction was the spring on the seal facing?
Author:  birvin [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 11:56 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild (update)
hoser wrote:
birvin wrote:
Ok I have a new problem, I have ran my 350 quiet a bit and have started smelling oil burning. I checked the balancer oil and it was low. I checked for leaks and found none. I pulled the exhaust and checked the piston for oil and it was oil on it and in the exhaust port. I installed a new double-lip seal when I built the Engine, but I have not pulled the clutch yet or the side cover. I plan on tearing into it maybe tomorrow night. I checked the manual and it doesn't say which way the seal is installed. Could I have installed it backwards? Thanks Billy


Did you install the seal correctly meaning what direction was the spring on the seal facing?

I should know tonight, I forgot since it has been over a couple of day's. LOL But one other thing that has been tumbling around in my hat rack is could it be the Mod that I did to release the pressure from the balancer? Could it be building enough pressure to be pulled thru the seal if it is not releasing enough with the mod? Thanks Billy
Author:  Randman [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 12:26 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
Please post pictures of your ballancer setup.

Rand
Author:  birvin [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 2:44 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Rebuild
Randman wrote:
Please post pictures of your ballancer setup.

Rand

Will Do. Thanks Billy
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