I have purchased a Pro X 03.1315 rod based on a post from this site. The issue now is that once the case is put together the rod hits the case. Is this the right rod or not or do you need to shave the case to get this to fit.

If this is for the Pilot Engine the top of the rod has to be machined but the cases should not be touched at all. Speedchaser has performed this for many here, never had to touch the cases to my knowledge. Have you looked in his section for the Pro-X rod mods by chance? Hosers tech pages has documented it I believe as well.

No it was for the fl350, when I put the case halfs together the big end bearing side of the rod was rubbing the case. I took the cases apart indexed what I had to shave off and put the case back together. I just didn't know if this was required or not but talked to a buddy and he said he had to do it on some atvs when using hot rods connecting rods and explained how to get the right amount of material out, I hope.
I looked through the site for an explanation but only found part numbers for the rod and nothing on the install. Maybe I just missed it, either way I should have the Engine installed this week, it's been down since February do to work, finishing grad school and having a toddler. Maybe one day I can get some toys that don't require so much attention to keep running lol.

This does not surprise me in the least this is why I like using OEM parts they fit, we have no choice in this case OEM parts are no longer being made so have to use after market, the OD of the big end of the rid must be slightly larger than the OEM rod was, any guesses how much material you had to remove to make it fit, might be a good idea to take the new rod and dress the big end on a belt sander before installing on the crank?

When I get time I will dig out a OEM 350 rod and compare it to the prox rod.

Not sure on the amount I did it in a few steps as oppose to one large one using a dremel on the case and sanding the rod as I figured a little off both was better than a lot off of either one. The crank moves fluidly now but was unable to complete a revolution before modifying. Figured others should now that there would have to be some modifications in order to get this rod to work as it surprised me upon installation.

I just installed the same rod in mine and had the same problem, But I slid the piston and cyclinder on and that stopped it from touching the casing. Mine was touching in the front right where the gasket was installed in the crank case. I hope this helped Billy

Yea it's a pain not being abl to get oem parts, if I could of got a large end bearing I would of went that route. This Engine had about a quart of water in it so I wanted to replace everything. Sucks I had to use Chinese bearings from oddatv on evilbay though.

Hey Hoser. It looks like UlitmateP used this rod from this thread in the parts section. viewtopic.php?f=64&t=10185. Might be a good idea to update the parts thread to let buyers know they will have to shave some off the rod in order to fit. Just wanted to make sure its a good idea before I did it.

Ok I had some time in the shop today so opened up one of the rod kits I bought its the Prox Pro X 03.1315 I bought two of these to use in the future in my FL350 FL250 81-84 ATC250R Engine rebuilds.

The big end of the Pro X 03.1315 rod appears to be slightly larger than the one used OEM FL350 rod I have I tried to take pictures but they are so close its not like one is noticeably bigger than the other one, I will dress up the big end of these rods a little on a belt sander before installing in the future and will be ready to have to clearance the cases. Their is a raised area in the center of the rod I will assume that is where its rubbing.

The bottom rod is the OEM.

Edited this post to reflect the problem. viewtopic.php?f=64&t=10185

So I have the rod, what is a good source for the pin? can I reuse my factory pin if it is not all scored up? I can check the tolerance of it verses the new short pin that came with the pro x rod.

I would not reuse stock pin the pin will be wore even if its not scored it will not be round any more from ware

but hay you could all ways turn it 90° and get some use out of it that if you can get it pressed back in crank half's with out it scoring the bores up

Speed

heck i should make a bunch stock fl350 crank pins

Yes you should so they are the exact length we need any idea on the cost?

That is the only thing I have left and I can put the new Engine together. I have the rest of the pieces. What type of material would that pin be made of speed ? and would it have to be hardened, I have access to a lathe but my knowledge is limited as to
different metals. If you decide to turn out a few count me in for 4 of the danged things That is how many lowers I have right now.