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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2016 7:30 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 24, 2016 11:24 am
Posts: 4
Hello everyone, new to the odyssey world. I'm working out of town for about 6 weeks and picked up a FL350 off craigslist. Thought it would be a fun toy to play with down here, as my Commander and KTM are 16hrs away. Overall, I would say its in good shape. I might replace the decals and the list of stuff done to it is below. Any recommendations? I'd like to find a set of wheels and tires, but that's all I can think off. I don't think I got a steal at $2500 but it's pretty fun to run around. Previous owner was running 32to1 amsoil. I went ahead and put fresh fuel in it and replaced the filter so far. Ran it for a couple hours, everything seem good on it so far.

Work done:
New E-start, rebuilt pull start, K&N's APOLLO CIS, upgraded carb 38mm I think, comet duster clutch, digatron gauge display, new batt, vforce3 reeds, DG exhaust, top end has under 40hrs but seems very strong still, gravity fuel tank.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2016 11:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
List of things to check:

Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or just purchased one.
1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet at least the minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above or check out the thread at the bottom of this list.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure and vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. Both my machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel and pump vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long.
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
14) Lots of good info here: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&start=25
viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 11:15 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Loose the gravity feed and go with a fuel pump system. They gravity feed will not deliver enough fuel on a long wide open throttle runs and you will burn a hole through the top of your piston when it leans out.

Rand


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 12:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Randman wrote:
Loose the gravity feed and go with a fuel pump system. They gravity feed will not deliver enough fuel on a long wide open throttle runs and you will burn a hole through the top of your piston when it leans out.

Rand


I second this.
Good one Rand, I missed it.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 8:18 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 24, 2016 11:24 am
Posts: 4
Thanks guys


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 11:34 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2019 11:26 pm
Posts: 1
Great info, I can use this too!


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