Yep, I'm about 1hr. 10 mins away from CP.

That is not my buggy for sale. Just saw that one recently and read you were in the midwest.

well the two I posted in WI sold last night. I will continue to search, I'm not at a have to have level yet but if the right FL350 came along at the right price I would buy it. Its great to search, look at pics, read and look at pricing because then when a good deal comes along I'll know it.

I'll post the ones I would be interested in here in this post. It looks like there are enough of them around in the midwest that something will come along. The one in ohio looks nice but is a little more then I want to spend.

thanks

I admire ur patience and desire to do the appropriate research.

With you're approach I'm sure u will know the right one when it shows up.
Good luck and Hats Off To Ya.
Edd

I bought a FL350 on Sunday. Its a little junky, missing the fenders, but it starts right up and runs and drives great... perfect for what I want. I checked the vin and it has the X and I can see the updated head. I'm going to go through it and just make sure everything is right and tight before I drive it again. I drove it at the guys house and a little when I got home on Sunday and that's been it.

I'm going to pull the carb clean and check the jets
New air filter, plug and fuel filter
Test fuel pump output
Pressure and compression test
Figure out and do the vent mod
rebuild the starter
grease all the fittings and make sure everything is adjusted right
I'm sure there is more to add to the list as I search and read.

Anyway here is a picture of the POS, came with a shop manual and a California title.

Looks like a great find to me. I wouldn't call it a POS.

Perform the things you listed above and ride it and have fun. I'm sure you will continue to work on it as time allows.

I second rmesser comments.
Lots of work there but great potential.
We're here to help.
I see some positives there though. It looks like the machine has not been rolled over because top frame looks good but its hard to tell from that angle. I need a side shot photo. Looks like most of the bits are there. Don't even start it again until you do your checks and an Engine pressure/vacuum test. Over fill the transmission and NO rev'n the piss out of it in the driveway. You won't be running it anytime soon.
Take your time.

My list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or bought one

1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
Vent mod threads:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6309&hilit=no+case+modification
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17606&hilit=vent+mod
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18016&start=25
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure AND vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in the machine.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. My machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel pump and vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good and grease the splines.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
14) Must build shock savers.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15745&hilit=shock+saver+chain
15) Replace the rear springs with 155lbs units. Stock ones are way to stiff. https://www.summitracing.com/int/search ... 0.188.0160 http://www.naake.com/store/1.88-id
16) Some good info here:
viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17468
17) Jack the front of the machine up and grab the front tire top and bottom with your hands. Pull the top toward you. If there is a lot of play then that means your J arm bushings are shot.
18) While it is still jacked up grab the steering wheel and move it side to side gently. If the steering wheel turns a bit before your wheels do then it probably still has the original rod ends and they are shot. Look under the machine and if you see the rubber boots around those rod ends at the end of the steering column then most likely they are originals --- they're toast, and they are pricey.
19) DO NOT rev the pizz out your machine while it’s just sitting there. The transmission is a splash lube system so this means it gets NO LUBE unless you are moving. There are several threads on blown AB bearings in the transmission. If you blow your AB you’re done, no parts available anymore.
20) You can get a free pdf manual here: https://oddatv.com/fl250-fl350-factory-manuals/
You can find all this info and parts books, serial numbers, etc in this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18393

Here is how you set the pilot jet:
Pilot jetting -- in my opinion this is the most important for driveability on an oddy. They are just a pain in the azz to drive if it is constantly stumbling and not taking off from low rpm. Setting the pilot jet requires one of those small induction tach's that you can buy on Amazon cheap. This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/Runleader-HM032R ... ll+engines
1) Basically you just wrap that wire around you sparkplug lead
2) Set your air screw out to 1 1/2 turns
3) Start Engine and let it warm up if possible
4) Set the Engine idle as low as you can but not so that it will stall on you
5) Turn the air screw out half a turn at a time and wait about ten seconds before you do it again. What you are looking for is the point where the Engine idle rpm does not rise anymore as you are unscrewing the air screw. If you are out more than 1 1/2 turns or less than 1 1/2 turns then you have to change your pilot jet.
If your air screw is more than 1 1/2 turns out, this means you need the next size smaller pilot jet. If the air screw is less than 1 turn out, this means you need the next size larger pilot jet. Change the pilot jet and redo this test.
CAUTION: You don't want your air screw to fall right out so don't go more than 4 complete turns out. At that point you will have to change your pilot jet anyways.

thanks for the support, I don't really think its a POS just tired looking and not as nice as some of the stuff I've seen on here. It fit in the budget, I paid $1600. I have no doubt that it will clean up and look better and after I make it through the list should be a fun machine.

I'll post more when I get time to work on it, not doing anything until my sons fl250 stator is here and his Engine is assembled.

I want a Ferrari and I want to nail miss July but that ain't gona happen.
I got what I got because it fit into my budget.
That's just life and sometimes I just don't like it.
So there is no shame in what you got there, only envy.
I wanted an oddy back in 1985 when I first saw one in a magazine. Couldn't afford it because the oddy was almost three times the price of a dirt bike at the time. I had to wait until I was in my 50's to get my hands on one. Some people will NEVER own one, only dream about it. So consider yourself lucky.
Some people will never race a car -- I did (2 championships). Some people will never skydive -- I did (10 jumps). Some people will never play at the World Series of Poker -- I did (several times). I never got married and sometimes envy those who did. I don't have any kids and envy those who do.
So in some ways I am a very lucky man and in some ways I am not.
You are a lucky man too. You just don't know it.

So I wanted to look at something real quick on my fl350 and it turned into taking a bunch of stuff off. I removed the gas tank, carb, skid, seat, air guides, exhaust and belt covers. I removed the pull starter and cover so I could drain the oil out that was in there, this is why the starter doesn't work. So now some questions
Vent mode - do I just rtv the hole in the upper right corner closed. Then buy the fitting off Ebay that screws into the dipstick hole and add a few inches of hose?

I think the output seal on the alternator side is leaking a little. I did a pressure test and I took a length of hose, held it up to my ear and it sounded like a tiny bit of air passing. The pressure test show a small leak somewhere and I think this is it. Pull the stator, pull the seal and replace? That simple?

At this point I might just pull the Engine out, looks like a few more bolts and shes free. Then I can easily pull and rebuild the starter.

Lets take these one at a time.
1) Vent mod hole: You are almost right. You screw a small sheet metal screw or self tapping screw with some silicone on it and screw it in. Not to big, right size approx. Easiest replacement for the dip stick is what Randman found. There should be a link. Then a length of hose. Then a bellows at end of hose from a CanAm. There should be a link.
2) Seal: Yes that simple.
3) Pull the Engine. Its a lot simpler to work on and you won't bust your knuckles in that tight space. Also makes working on it more fun because you WILL have to do the air test again. You may have more than one leak. Use a soap spray.

Is this ok for fuel and pulse line? I think I read that the pulse line had to have the reinforcement in it so it didn't collapse.
https://www.amazon.com/theBlueStone-10F ... way&sr=8-3

Yup that stuff good for our use.

I pulled the carb apart last night and it has a 140 main and 45 pilot and the clip was in the second position from the top. Engine is stock as far as I can tell, with stock exhaust and a stock air box with a bunch of holes drilled in the bottom. This fl350 was from California at one time and looks like it was tunes for higher altitude. I looked at the chart and for my altitude it looks like I should have a 145 main and be in the second from the bottom position for the clip. Can anyone confirm that? Also I would like to run a little on the rich side and change plugs more often then run on the lean side for performance.

I also was looking at my change switch and the little black cap is pulled back from the sensor. It seem like there should be a spring inside under the cap to push the plunger onto the detent. Is it a spring or something else?

Below is a chart.
We azz summing that is the original stock carb right ??
Look in the manual, it should give you the pilot jet size.
In my honest opinion almost nobody here can tell the difference with regards to needle jet clip position.
There are only a few here that are sensitive enough and skilled enough to tell the difference if the clip is wrong.
Put the damn thing in the middle and don't F with it. All your gona do is fry an Engine.



Pics please.
You are not explaining this clearly to me.
"little black cap" --- ?? --- are you talking about the rubber boot that covers the end terminals ??
"spring under the cap" --- ?? --- this Honda change switch is all internal. The only thing exposed is the wiring with a rubber boot to protect from short circuits and dirt.

I can not stress this next point enough -------- AVGAS ----- that machine is still air cooled -- Amen.

Pilot jetting -- in my opinion this is the most important for driveability on an oddy. They are just a pain in the azz to drive if it is constantly stumbling and not taking off from low rpm. Setting the pilot jet requires one of those small induction tach's that you can buy on Amazon cheap. This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/Runleader-HM032R ... ll+engines
1) Basically you just wrap that wire around you sparkplug lead
2) Set your air screw out to 1 1/2 turns
3) Start Engine and let it warm up if possible
4) Set the Engine idle as low as you can but not so that it will stall on you
5) Turn the air screw out half a turn at a time and wait about ten seconds before you do it again. What you are looking for is the point where the Engine idle rpm does not rise anymore as you are unscrewing the air screw. If you are out more than 1 1/2 turns or less than 1 1/2 turns then you have to change your pilot jet. If your air screw is more than 1 1/2 turns out, this means you need the next
size smaller pilot jet. If the air screw is less than 1 turn out, this means you need the next size larger pilot jet. Change the pilot jet and redo this test.
CAUTION: You don't want your air screw to fall right out so don't go more than 4 complete turns out. At that point you will have to change your pilot jet anyways.

Picture of the change switch. The must be a spring that goes inside then the little cap goes on then the rubber boot.

Nope that's how it is.

I just went out and took a pic of the one on the death machine.
It's different than yours and it appears your switch is damaged and missing bits.
You may have to bypass it. It's possible your machine will start in gear so be careful.
Get in the machine, put it in gear and see if it starts. If it does your switch is toast.
Very dangerous situation. The Aussies have a great story on this.
Pic below.

CO can you see a spring under the plastic cap? All someone did is bend the tabs back and slide the cap back. There has to he a spring that pushes the plunger forward so it follows the detent in the trans.

Sorry I can't help you there.
There is no way I will break apart a working switch and I have no spares on hand.
I do have a blown transmission that I got with some parts but it did not have a switch.

I do have a suggestion though.
Put it in neutral and look at the switch. Then put it in gear and see if that center piece in that switch moves. If it does then maybe you can come up with a plan. Right now that's all I got for ya.

Thanks CO I wouldn't want anyone to take apart a working switch. I found a small spring that fit into the opening on the back of the switch. I then put the plastic cover over it and bent the tabs to hold it. I installed it and I get continuity on one pin to ground when it is in neutral. Then in forward I get continuity to ground on the other pin. Without the spring in there the plunger would get pushed back into the switch but then never slide back forward between gear changes. Seems like it working, I'll know when I get it running again.

I would just do the gear box bypass and be done with the switch, you can then start it in gear and never have to hear the grind when you put it in gear. some people do like it but each to there own, was one of the first things I did to mine, no regrets

No wonder why the starter didn't work... looks like no one ever changed the starter oil.


Good reason to do the vent mod

I replaced the crank seal on the alternator side and tried the leak test and it passed, held for a few hours before I discounted it. I started to pull apart the clutch side but I don't have the correct size puller. Isn't the seal under the clutch the seal that is for the Engine balancer? Would the other crank seal be under the balancer cover?

1) Engine passed leak test -- so why are you pulling it apart ??
2) don't have correct puller -- use search box should be a post on it -- easy to make
3) seal under clutch for balancer -- yes it is under the cover but no need here to pull it apart because it passed the leak test. It would just be a waste of time and money.