I agree, it passed leak and vaccum test, held for hours. I even put 3 psi into the dip stick to check the Engine balancer seal and it held. So my rtv and tap con bolt sealed too. I started putting everything back together, Engine is back in. I'm going to clean up the skid plate, seat frame, battery tray and belt covers and repaint them black.

I think the only thing I need now is a 145 main jet.

Clutch pullers -- make a push rod out of round stock and grind it down on the grinder if you don't have a lathe. Don't be cheap on the grinding. It must be smaller than the threads or you will damage them. It must also be able to go deep enough to bottom out in the crank.

Thanks for the post CO, I ordered a 142 and 145 main jet. I'm going to make a puller for my clutch anyway so if I need to pull it later, thanks for the pics.

The only thing that I could see being a problem is the intake rubber is hard as a rock. At some point is this going to fail? Is there a source for stock replacements or just the after market one?

Eventually it will fail.
This is why you do leak down tests once a year.
Get a hold of that Derek Tisinger guy on facebook. He sells new oddy parts.
https://www.facebook.com/derek.tisinger

Starting to assemble and I'm try to put all of the clips, cables and fuel line in the right spots. The shop manual doesn't show enough detail, are there pics some where of how all the clips go and where they go?

I went through the manual a few times and I found some pictures that helped me get the fuel lines, vent lines and cables routed like the should be. I hate it when the clips are missing or the hoses and lines are just flopping around. I like to get things like that back to how the should be. So now I'm just waiting for a few parts to show up.

I picked up everything I need to make the shock savers so I'm going to try and make that this weekend.

I'm also going to pull the rear suspension apart to change the rear axle bearings. I bought some SKF bearings and seals to replace the ones I have that are bad. I was researching this and saw that some people drill and tap for a zerk fitting in the rear carrier. The bearings I ordered are rubber sealed on both ends, do I;
Drill for zerk fitting and remove inner seal so the bearings get grease too?
Drill for zerk fitting and leave the inner seal in place?
Or not drill and leave it as it is?

I drilled the hubs for zerk fittings but I'm still not sure if I should remove the inner seal on the bearings so they get grease too. I finally got the new fuel filter that I order. I did the fuel pump test and it failed so I'm looking at rebuilding the stock one or buying the polaris pump.

What is the part number for the winderosa kit? I found this one on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Venom-Keihin-Reb ... ay&sr=8-29

When you replace the pump with the polaris pump do you buy the actual polaris pump or this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X ... 56KJRRB73Z

1) Don't waste your time with the grease fitting. It's not done that way because you would have to pump a bunch of grease in it at first to reach the first ball and there is always a danger of pumping to much in and hydraulic the bearing out or water getting in and contaminating the grease. If you do it this way then you will have to remove the inner bearing seal but it is a bad idea to begin with.
Just run the sealed bearings.
2) Kit -- I don't know.
3) The Polaris pump from dealer here in Canada is $80. You can buy the cheap ones but you can be sure they are Chinese knock offs. I have run the Chinese with no issues as of yet and I have also run the Polaris one. I don't seem to know which is which now on my machines now. They run.

thanks CO, I did some more searching and found the kit part number is 451420. Hoser also posted the link to Denis Kirk http://denniskirk.com website and that's where I ordered a kit from. After reading through that post I know whats wrong with my pump, its missing the piece that goes over the holes opposite of the two springs. My pump looks super clean on the inside, I wounder if the PO took it apart, cleaned it out and lost the piece. I should have it on Tuesday and I'll rebuild it and test it again.

I pulled my pump apart just now to check for that small piece and it is in there. I did the fuel pump test again but I only get about 2 oz Maybe I'm not doing the test the right way. I'm using a new battery, machine in neutral, ignition off, crank for 10 seconds.... am I missing something?

Throwing the towel in on this one for now. I don't know how I missed it or if I thought I tested but remembered the fl250 I was working on... compression is at 110. I rebuilt the fuel pump and still only had about 2 oz of fuel. I put in a new set of boyesen reeds and tried again but only got 3 oz of fuel on the test. The reeds were bad so it did help a bit. After I put it together I warmed it up and then did a compression test, throttle open ignition off and I only get 110 psi.

While I had it out I drove it around the yard a bit real easy and then checked it one last time and it was the same. I spent a bunch of time cleaning up and painting some stuff, did the shock saver mod, rear bearings and was just about ready to order tires. Thought I was going to be ready for the summer

I'm currently having fits with my fuel delivery on the death machine.
Your check valve might be toast.
What you have to do when a pump fails the flow test is you hook the line back up to the carb and then remove the return line to the tank. You put this line in the measuring container and redo the test. If it now gets the 4.5 oz in 10 sec then you know the check valve is bypassing and is toast.
The other thing you have to consider here is that your tank lines are all corroded up.
When ever you do these tests and have problems you redo them again but pull fuel straight from a jerry can. As you can see there can be many issues with fuel delivery. Your 110 psi compression is good enough. If you hook a vacuum gauge to the pulse line to the pump you should get 5 psi pulse.
CO

Thanks for the reply CO. I bought a new Honda check valve from partszilla and replaced all of the fuel line. I cleaned the tank when I had it out and it was very clean on the inside and the pickup tubes did not have any rust on them. I did test the pulse line with the vacuum pressure gauge and it looked like it had over 5 psi as the needle bounced between vacuum and pressure. I did all of this before doing the fuel pump test.

I'm going to try the tests you posted and see if the results are better. I figured with the low compression that I was done for. I thought I needed to be at 138?

I worked on my odyssey a little today. I borrowed my brothers fluke meter and tach clamp to check the jetting and set the idle rpm. I have a 145 main jet with the clip in the middle position. I started it up and I could get it to idle down to 800 RPM but it wasn't smooth so I raised it to 1050. The air screw is 1.5 turns out and I turned it out .5 turns and nothing changed. I turned it back in .5 then another .5 and the RPMs dropped. I then turn it back out .5 which is back to where I started 1.5 turns out and the RPMS went back up to 1050.

I set the idle to 1300 RPMs and then took it for a ride. Drives great but no very fast, I pulled the connector from the trans switch and grounded both pins to eliminate the rev limiter and the neutral safety. I took it for another ride and it didn't feel any different. I reconnected the switch and removed the air box lid and went for another ride. What a difference, completely different machine, almost crashed it its so fast. Now I'm thinking the low compression is either ok or my gauge is way off because this thing is fast. It also starts right up, if I even look at the start button it will start... it starts that easy. I read the manual and my odyssey shows no signs of low compression.

I'm running a UNI filter in a stock air box with the stock hose and snorkel. I think the 145 main is too rich but the RPM air screw check makes it seem like the 145 is right. Should I switch to a 142 or add another elbow and tube to the snorkel and drill the holes in the front of it?

I still need to figure out why I only get about 3oz on the fuel pump test but at least I'm motivated to work on it.

don't be guessing on your jetting, read the plug do plug chops, get an egt or you can use a Wideband to tune it.

as far the fuel thing goes I have a new Polaris pump, new t, done everything and im lucky if I get 4.5ounces..the t is a bad design according to the manual there is nothing wrong with either one of mine. I get the same results with either one. they are a stupid design fuel is going to take the easiest route with less restrictions sometimes that's goes to the carb and other times it goes to the tank. what I am going to do is add a small jet to the t on the tank return side, this should build a little pressure and force the fuel to the carb

“what I am going to do is add a small jet to the t on the tank return side, this should build a little pressure and force the fuel to the carb”


I searched on here and found a 190 is the jet recommended. The t that partzilla sells doesn’t work correctly. The jet in the line solved the problem. CO has a homemade one that does the same thing as a jet behind the t. I was told if you can find one from an old fl250 to grab that or they can be found new for about 45$. Not cheap, but original before Honda screwed with the design.
Be careful pulling the air box lid off and not checking your plug. More air = leaner.
Bob

the one I replaced with was an oem t. i agree theres a shitty design.
190 jet behind the t..hmm I was gonna go way smaller than that..trial and error I guess I have lots of jets so I can experiment

I put a 142 main jet in and took it for a short ride and it runs good. I think the 145 was too much fuel with a stock air box setup. I thought the lack of power was from the low compression. With the 142 jet it seems to have plenty of power. So I should be set to stock, 142 main, 1.5 turns out on air screw, clip in the middle, stock air box and exhaust.

I'm going to work on the fuel pump test and see if I can go from 3 to 4.5 oz. My plan is to connect a fuel line to a gas can and then a fuel line out fron the pump to a container. Then see if the pump will even pump 4.5oz on its own.

Progress

I put a fuel line from the in on the pump right into the gas tank and another one from the out into a container. Cranked it for 10 seconds and easily got 4.5 oz maybe a little more. I reconnected the line from the petcock to the pump and tried it again and got 4.5 oz, this was with no check valve. I left the Honda check valve out and replaced it with and regular t valve with a 145 main jet and easily got 4.5 oz in 10 seconds.

I started it up with this setup and it seems to run fine but I did notice one of the overflow hoses spitting a little fuel at idle. So I'm going to order a 190 main jet and install that in the return line to the tank. Seems like that's what a few others have used when not running the Honda check valve.

I replaced the check valve on my sons fl250 and kept the old one. It doesn't seal like it should but I was comparing to the one that came on my fl350 and the hole is a lot smaller on the fl250 one. Maybe that's why the fl250 ones work?

I installed the 190 main jet, it sorta screwed right into the port going into the gas tank. I slipped the hose over it and clamped it. I'm going to try the fuel pump test again just to make sure I still get 4.5 oz with the 190 jet.


I also got new rear tires, doesnt look so small now


I had a chance to look at the front suspension. The PO had the nuts loose so the suspension would work. I tried to torque them to the spec in the manual and the suspension would not move at all. I pulled the J arms and found these large washers or shims, one on each side. From the exploded view in the manual it looks like these should not be in there. I left them out, assembled and torqued and the front suspension work great and there doesn't seem to be any slop.



I also pulled the front drums just to check everything out. The pads and drums look great. There were a few cotter pins missing and one lower ball joint nut was loose but had the cotter pin. I torqued everything and replaced the cotter pins.

Front tires are now on, went with 23" tall sunf tires. Just waiting on seat belts for my other sons FL250 and then their wrist restraints before heading to the bad lands.

Fuel pump test passed with the 190 main jet instead of the honda check valve.

I'm also thinking of buying a fire extinguisher and mounting it to my FL350 before we go.

I took the kids to the badlands on a Wednesday so it wouldn't be so busy. We had a great time, all three machines ran great.... I need fenders.

Looks like you're a great dad. Doing what a dad is suppose to do. Good job.

NO you don't need fenders. All you need is skirts like I have on my machines. They are light because they are plastic.

Please keep an eye on your pump fuel flow.
I have had a lot of trouble lately with that issue and now have switched to electric pumps on all my machines. Have not test run them yet but will probably get to that next week.
If your Engine has great bottom end and then suddenly at mid throttle or full throttle it feels "flat", that's your fuel pump not putting out enough fuel.
CO