Stixs heres a pic of a factory cylinder look at hte casting flaws,miss alignment on sleave and hone in cylinder as well as port chamfer.

Stixs see if this works

I think I got it changed from bitmap to jpeg.

Remember these numbers are from DS#1(Zac's). DS#2's jug is still mounted and running.

A-108.05 (4.52)
B-114.95 (4.53)
C-113.06 (4.45)
D-114.90 (4.52)

X-154.5
Y-155

Z-86.46 (3.40)

Stock stroke is 68(2.677). Yup Im liking the numbers, looks like 70% increase in HP with 170

Ill have to upgrade to SS brake lines in front, right now I get about 25% braking power from front brakes at this time, rears will just about lock up on pavement. Fronts forget about it. I have them adjusted correctly, I might just need some new shoes, ill try shoes first, then if no or just a little improvement, Ill try to find some SS brake lines to help prevent lines swelling.

My fronts will lock if I push them hard enough, you really don't want them to lock up when you brake, sorta like why they installed anti-loc braking systems on cars and trucks, you can stop better if they don't lock or in our case almost lock up, you might consider this before spending a lot of time and money trying to get them to lock up.

True story on lock up. The j amr will have weight transfer under breaking with drum and proper shock setting. If your breakes are able to lock thu they should if needed. One advantage using disc is more pedal fell and better response. The disc caliper location on spindle with a conversion will enhace this effect. One has to consider is the cost worth it. I say yes but I,am kinda wierd that way. If you pick up speed and handling better breaking is a most. If it quicker it also need to be sloowed quicker to be effective. That darn action and reaction thing. TMI, I now. A good set of stock working breaks are must.

Safty first. This sould be done in pre ride and every ride a break check should be done. Never now when you will need them. It's easy. check fluid, hold handles for 30 seconds feeling for pedal release( indacating fluid pressure loss), role then hit handles then release checking for rolling resestiance, lock breaks out of gate to see if they functioning, Have fun. Checking pads should be post ride not pre ride. Replace fluid at the begaing of every season. Blotta,bloatta,blotta.

I will entry #'s into field's for file. Thanks for taking the time to do the work and sharing. Having fun yet?

By the way stixs how old are those lines. The new lines do make a diff. I know mine did. They will set youback $180.00 thu and that's doing it your self. You do get new tools out of the deal thu. It's all about the tools. Go steel line to tee and then out to each caliper, oops wheel cylinder. sorry, I got ahead of myself. If you rework breaks make sure you clean and hone wheel cylinders install new cups and install new spring kits and replace fluid. The wheel cylinder is a cylinder and needs a good hone so they don't were new cups/stick and leak as well work better. I bet "H" has a guide some where to follow. Yes, new tool hone and bledder. I know where does it stop. It doesn't!

The brake lines are probably origionals. Im probably getting about 30% of braking potential right now. I would be happy with 90% and would not mind if they didnt lock up wheels. Can old shoes become glazed and slick therefore not stop as well as new shoes?? I know my shoes are OLD but still have plenty of shoe left. Well i got the top end put back together. Thanks Hoser for the links, I cleaned up some castings even more and put a nice radius on the skirt. The pic shows fogging oil on the top of the piston to preserve until I get the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) put back together.

Nice piston, all shinny and new. Look forward to seeing it run. I bet Zac will be happy or at least you will. More pics please.

Weather broke yesterday so I decided to button up the head, seat, air scoops, etc. and see how she runs. After 3 or 4 heat cycles, I then spent about 15 minutes riding at idle to mid idle to let parts break in. I then hit the gas, it ran good for about 2 minutes then motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) started to bog at full throttle. I went back to garage and checked compresion which was still at 149 psi. I took it out and drove it again, motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) still bogged at full throttle, then it would not even give me enough power to move the Odyssey. At this point I was hoping it was just a fouled plug, after all, the plug was the same plug that was in the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) when I purchased it last year. I should have relaced it when I did the top end. It was getting dark and cold so I ran it for about 5 minutes, and she ran like a champ. This morning I took it out again and ran it hard with no problems, I then did a quick plug chop. The plug looked nice and brown. So all in all Im happy with the new top end rebuild. The real test will be Little Sahara, hopefully Zac and I can join Jerry and Ted at LS after Christmas for some fun.

Can I come, please. Ahhh breaking in new motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). Few heat cycles and let her eat. I like your go or blow attiude.

Bring firewood. What is your break in method for bore and rings?

Remeber I'am a pilot guy. I heat cycle it a few times check compression between cycles checking for leaks( collant,oil ect ) and smooth idol. Let it come up to temp dial in mid range of carb and then work on top end( main jettting and plug read) then let it eat. Once the carbs dialed in. Always let it come up to temp and roll into it so you don't stick it. Then go or blow. I'am not a big fan of break in other then getting it up to temp before ridding and hammering it. Air cooled motors will tend to swell quicker so watch for cold siezures. Feather thottle postiions keeping it off WOT (Wide Open Throttle) for more than 10 to 15 sec untill you burn a tank then game on. By going to WOT (Wide Open Throttle) off and on it will reduce mid range lean siezures. As well as hitting the choke on cool down washing the cylinder and cooling the piston and cylinder( fuel cools) before shutting it off. Once it falls to idol and starts to stumble at idol push choke in and let idol for 30 sec before shutting it off. If cooled off then warm back up before hammer time. Once it's ran a tank install new gaped plug and have fun. You want the piston swelled in and the cylinder up to temp befor to many rpm's. This will help on ring life as well. If you get suiezure of any kind the rings will try to wipe cylinder clean and damage the rings. Be sure to do pre and post ride comp checks. Make sure you fuel oil mix is right on with dialing in the carb and maintain for ridding. If you add extra oil it will run leaner( less fuel that cools) so jet it to what you run. Last but not least make sure air cleaner is fresh for jetting, plug is new and gaped. Be sure you check all bolts and nuts after jetting incase you forgot to tighten one up this includes you intake boots and fuel pump hose. Spray around carb area with carb cleaner checking for leaks while warmed ( not hot) up Engine is idoling. If you have one the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) will tell ya. I always install new filter with every top end. Fitlers that have a hole you do not see will take new motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) out and make you wonder why. I also do a vac/pressure pulse reading on the vac line going to pump. it is directly related to compression. low vac/pressure pulse most likly low compression. Do this a given rpm reading for accuracy while battery charger is installed. Sorry starting to babble.

No babble, very informative. If weather is like today Ill have to rethink LS after Christmas. My Odys heater only works when weather is 90 + . Hows your tolip's running? I need to get a set of Vforce reed petals, if possible, from Randy. I guess I could put the old one in but the end of one of the petals is a little frayed, Id hate to see it come apart on a ride, doh!. I still need to instal new and improved shocks. Hmm what else,I guess that's it. Still trying to find a motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).I found a guy That has several FL350 motors, some complete and not so complete, he wanted 500 for a tight botom end. Id like to get a whole motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) for that. Still no $$ back from my UPS claim.

Good try,(s'tolip). You know you top ended and broke in your other bike fine or it would not still be running. So build on that. It's fun aint it. Ya replace pedals before install. Putting in bad parts just cost more money and headachs. Remember install at you own risk. Its snowed here pretty good and I'am doing office work, well I will be. I bet you wish you would have CCed the air cooled head. Oh well next time or when you get spare. I bet nukeum has that info. If you got bath scale please put under rear tire stand on back of bike and get me #. Thanks. Keep up the good work.

I would like to have broke it in correctly though. 293Lbs.

Thanks, 30 lb per side heavier than pilot Wonder what a little weight bias change might do to help it turn.