no,he had it right,overall length is 17"
151/2" where they show to meausure it on the handle

no,he had it right,overall length is 17"
151/2" where they show to meausure it on the handle

I mis-read his post, I thought he said overall lengh... was 15.5 Sorry, I believe the motion pro tool has a 3/8 opening. I have also heard that when you add extensions and or adapters it changes the formula... But that was a long time ago... I also thought (dangerous for me) that if the MP tool was at a 90* it was the same setting on the torque ratchet???

about to put head on,theres a thick paper gasket adhered to bottom of head,Is that suppossed to come off and be replaced with new metal gasket I bought or does new gasket go with this one already attached to head?

I don't see the paper gasket in the photo, but it should just be the aluminum metal gasket only...

its on the head in pic,I went ahead and scraped it off and went with the one thin metal gasket,I got different answers when I asked before if i should go with all 3 or just one.
Doing a leak down test now but its not going well.The block I made where the reed cage goes I could only get 4 bolts in,but it still looks tight,but when I turn on the air it just leaks through,doesnt hold any air at all and i cant tell where its leaking.I'm wondering if air would come out where the 2 bolts are not in? I need someone to turn the air on while I sniff around for the leak but im by myself

well i figured out it was leaking where I plugged it ,not waiting to fabricate another piece to do the test,going to start putting everything back together,its been so long since I tore it down it might take me a while to figure out how to get it back together

putting on exhaust,Ive got a whole mess of O rings that were in the small bag with exhaust gasket,and 2 little metal washers,anybody know what they are for? the O rings and the washers?

Metal washers are probably for the drain on the balancer/ transmission/ gas tank, save them, Orings go on things like your screw in dip stick, starter? I would have to go through the parts break down on the service honda site to find where they all go.

ok,thanks
Well got it 90 % back together,have seat,harness,and skid plate to put on.Then I need to hook gas lines back up and figure out how they go on this new fuel pump.Did check the compression,was 136

After you installed the cylinder did you look in the intake side to make sure you didnt snag a ring, before installing the reed cage?

well,not exactly.I looked there but not for that reason,I had forgot you told me to check that last time,but i did look through there and see the piston go up and down a couple times and i didnt see anything i thought was wrong.When you say snagging,do you mean the ring would be out of its groove?

So you went with one of the three??? search pre- detonation... squish and then look at sunblock's poof ka boom csi...
136 compression and did you get carb on when doing the comp test? was motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) warmed up??? carb held wide open???

carb was on,no it was not warmed up,compression test was almost first crank,fuel lines are not hooked up yet,and carb was not open.Wont be able to work on it again ttill sunday.When I was asking opinions on the gasket situation I I received different answers,either way seemed ok,now your saying it causes premature ejaculation!! damnit,damnit,damnit,lol
cross my fingers

[quote="Turbotexas"]So you went with one of the three??? search pre- detonation... squish and then look at sunblock's poof ka boom csi...
136 compression and did you get carb on when doing the comp test? was motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) warmed up??? carb held wide open???

ok,I went back looking for the answers i received to my gasket question,and I received only 2,one from you saying you used all 3,and one from sunblock saying to use the thin one with a stock head,even after his recent detonation,so now i'm confused? heres what sunblock wrote on page 4 of this thread


" Most will just use one of the thin outer layers of the head gasket when running the stock head. Aftermarket heads have smaller domes and can create high amounts of compression so using the complete gasket is better for those, I just learned that one the hard way. see my recent seizure thread.

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/ph.....php?t=5330

which ever you go with just check the compression and see where you are at. using the full gasket will lower the compression and using the thin part will increase it. I think stock is around 130 or so ???? some one will correct me on that. "

I often ride alone, so I opted for the full gasket for A. reliability... B. Reliability... C. I assumed someone more knowledgable than me designed these gaskets so I am using them as so...

I would consider using 2 of the layrers If I wanted to bump up my compression... not one!!! I remember sunblock having 17? ponds of compession, which you would have to buy race gas/high octane gas...
Since you are so new to these two strokes (I still am LOL) why not use all three for the first time around, then later you can experiment... Let's get you some seat time!!!

Have you started saving for some Works brand shocks???

yes,but sunblock also said he had aftermarket head which bumped up the compression,especially using the one gasket,but most people use the 1 gasket for the stock head.I'm all for the reliability thing,if that's the best way I'll do it,I'm just looking for a reason not to pull my head back off! lol
Hoser,you wanna weigh in here? anybody else with an opinion?

The link isn't working for me??? I remember Someone stating it looked like detonatoion... I wouldn't know detonation if it slapped me naked...

[quote="Turbotexas"]The link isn't working for me??? I remember Someone stating it looked like detonatoion... I wouldn't know detonation if it slapped me naked...


that link didnt work for me either,it was to sunblocks thread about his problem,if you want to read what he says about the gaskets go to page 4 of this thread

here is the link I am refering to...

http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.ph ... 404b28396e

were going round and round,lol,I read it before,but like I said before,he blames that on running one gasket with his aftermarket setup,with the stock head he says most people use 1 gasket

I have not heard the one layer of gasket until he used it... I have heard a few using the 2 layers though...
remember these are just my opinions

well I guess I'm not going to get any more replies on gasket question
On to next subject: proper break in
Hoser,Ive read your proper break in procedure, viewtopic.php?t=3114
does that apply to my 350? especially this part

"I prefer to break-in motors on a petroleum based oil and then switch to a synthetic afterwards (if it's to be done at all). There's lots of opinions on this...... for better or worse, that's mine. My feelings are that "too slippery" an oil will slow down the break-in process too much and I've even seen 600X cross hatched cylinders, chrome and Nikasil bores where the rings never seated and we attributed it to synthetic oils during break-in. If it's a two stroke, you can add a bit of extra pre-mix oil to the fuel, set the oil pump at a slightly higher than normal base setting, or both for the first tank of fuel, but I'd use a petroleum based oil"

Ive just hooked up my fuel lines and Im ready to put some gas in the tank and fire it up,so I'm wondering which way to go on the oil.Also what mixture should the oil ratio be?
Ive also read these opinions:

11) My trick is the heat cycle break-in, 3 times.

*1st cycle: Ride the bike. Go NO MORE than 1/2 throttle, with NO hard accelaration. Ride the bike until it is to operating temperature like normal, then park it. Wait until it is cool to the touch (on the pipes/radiators). You want the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) 'ice cold', not warm.

*2nd cycle: Take the bike out again, this time go NO MORE than 3/4 throttle. Go through all the gears, NOT WINDING it out- short shift. Stay away from hard accelartation. Get it to running temp, and park it again. Wait for it to cool down a second time.

*3rd cycle: Take the bike out, this time go through ALL the gears, but don't bring it to redline. You can go as hard as you want in any gear, but don't hit the revv limiter. Get to operating temp, and park it. Let it cool down one last time.

After it is cooled down the 3rd and final time, take it out and tear it up. Like I said, you will hear X different ways for break in, but this is my choice. I have 7 rebuilds, ranging from rings, to piston and rings, to cranks, seals, etc. and not once ever had a problem.

#2

If you have a pre-mix system (mixing oil and fuel in the fuel tank), then you should richen the ratio to about 32:1 for the first ten gallons of gas. If you have an injection system (putting oil in a separate oil tank), then you should put 50:1 premix in the fuel tank along with the oil injection system for the first ten gallons of gas.

During the first 10 gallons of gasoline, there should be NO full throttle operation. First idle the Engine for about 10 minutes to ensure that the Engine is properly warmed-up. Then begin varying the throttle position up and down, up to 20% throttle for a half hour. Then come back and let the Engine cool off completely - it should be a good 30 min break. After it cools down, you may now ride it up to 50% throttle for another half hour or so. Then come back again and let it completely cool down again. Now you can go out and ride up to 90% throttle. Continue this for the remainder of the 10 gallons, never holding one throttle position for more than a few seconds. Do not run at a steady throttle position and do not go to 100% throttle. After your first tank of gas, replace your plugs with fresh ones. For the second tank, you may ride normally with one exception - do not hold it at 100% throttle for more than a few seconds. After the second tank of gas, you are completely broken in and may ride anyway you like

and finally:


Warm it up to operating temp blipping the throttle every 20-30 seconds. After it has been warmed up shut it down and let it cool off. After it has cooled off retorque all the cylinder head bolts and base nuts to the correct specs.

After you have retorqued everything to spec warm the machine up COMPLETELY again and ride it around for a few minutes. During this ride if everything is acting as suspected you can then ride normally.

With an air cooled or any other 2-stroke it is extremely important to warm the Engine prior to riding.

As far as oil is concerned don't change the ratio you plan on running during the break in process. This will only change your jetting and lead to running lean and fouled plugs.

This is how I do it, but there are 2 schools of thought. Take it easy, or run it hard. I choose the second, and it has worked well for me.

After learning the hard way I would just run all three of the gasket layers. If you want to play around with it just make sure you check the compression each time. I pull 175-180 with my setup and thought 93 octane would be ok, but seems not l,ol I am still learning too

damnit sunblock!! lol now your contradicting yourself ,you said 1 gasket was fine with stock head

how did you break yours in?