Not a real big deal. I will post up some pics. Since your not very familiar with the process and the cylinder is honed. I would hate for you to scratch it up taking the numbers. Probably best to practice on an old cylinder that needs to be bored. I find it best to use duck tape on the ends of the caliper your not using when measuring up a prepared cylinder and be very very careful. Plus it's your day off go ride and have fun.

ok thanks.Im in the slow process of taking my Engine out now,just taking my time.I'm putting in a new starter so im taking the Engine out to do it,gonna do a leakdown test while im at it

Hey guys, I have some questions related to the port mapping in my 350. My cylinder has been re-sleeved, and ported, by an Engine builder for the previous owner.

1 - When porting one of these cylinders, should the small transfer ports at the sides of the cylinder be opened up in proportion to the work done on the intake and exhaust ports? My intake and exhaust ports were opened up quite a bit, but the transfer ports weren't touched.

2 - What is the correct total length (height, really) of the cylinder sleeve, from the head gasket surface to the bottom of the sleeve where it hangs down in the case? I'm trying to determine if the sleeve is too long, or if the cylinder was decked at some point in it's previous life. Whoever installed my sleeve set it flush at the head gasket surface, then ported it, but when the cylinder was bolted to the crank case, the sleeve was pushed upwards by the case about .050". This sets off the alignment of all the ports, so I need to either trim off the bottom of the sleeve, use thicker base gaskets, or trim the protruding bit at the head gasket surface and re-do the porting.

If I read you post correctly. The sleve was installed and the deck of the sleve is flush with the top of the cylinder. That is the way its should, the thing if I read right is when you bolt it up the sleve raises ablove the the deck of the cylinder telling me the sleve moves. If the sleve moves it's trash. Some times when a race set up is done there would have been a spacer plate at the bottom or the sleve was installed incorrectly depending on the ports. If a a race shop preformed this work I would call them and ask why you have theis issue. The thing I wonder is why it would hange down below the bore orignal cylinder. On these sleaves the orignal cylinder is bored ( smaller then the sleve) and the sleve is install ( heat the cylinder to swell the bore and tne press the sleve into the cylinder) this should make the bottom of the sleve match the bottom of the cylinder and then decked and posrt match cleaned ported ect. If the sleve needed to be pushed past the orignal cylinder base ( which I dout) to line up the base of the ports so the exhaust is not open when at TDC (Top Dead Center) exposing the the exhaust port by the bottom of the piston. Then it should have been decked as well and the top of the cylinder decked to match.

As far as the port sizes and alterations there is a lot a varibles The most coomon is exhaust and intake and match transfers depending on the math and where you want the Engine to preform. The port time areas or mean time has to match to related bolt up parts, intake ,exhaust ect. In most cases the transfers are alredy large enough unless you need more time area for an higher rpm, decrease in blow down time ( the difference between ex open and transfer open), crank case pressure and other varibles. Sorry no easy ansawer. The sleve moving is the biggest concern for me if indeed it's moving.

Thanks for the reply.

I think my cylinder had been decked on a previous bore, before the sleeve. Then when the sleeve was installed, the guy wasn't paying attention, and just seated the sleeve flush with the top of the cylinder (without decking the sleeve to match the previously decked cylinder, this set the sleeve too low), matched up the porting, and bolted it together, which caused the sleeve to move upwards.

If I could get a total length of the stock sleeve, I could verify this, but I don't know what that number is.

The Engine builder didn't drill the lube holes in the piston or relieve the exhaust bridge either, which leads me to believe he didn't really know what he was doing. Supposedly some guy down in Oregon, around Eugene, that "specializes" in FL350's and has a bunch of parts, but not an actual business. Don't know who he is, this is what the PO told me.

It's not too surprising that the sleeve was able to be moved, each of those M10 cylinder base bolts is exerting over 10,000 lbs of clamping force when torqued up, basically acting as a 40,000 lb press when the cylinder was bolted to the cases. Yeah, that'll move a sleeve.

I was able to remedy the situation last night by positioning the sleeve flush with the head gasket surface, removing .035" from the bottom of the cylinder sleeve, and matching up the porting a bit better. Logically, this lowered all the ports by .035", but with the porting that was done, the ports were raised by more than that anyway.

We'll see how it runs. If my measurements are right, I should end up with .080" squish band using the stock head and base gaskets, which is some improvement from stock anyway. I'm hoping to not need race gas in this; but compression was 165 psi cold, before I took the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) apart. I'm hoping there was something just funny going on to make the reading higher.

port maps

pics