I have a set of cases that both the bearings have spun on. You can just drop the bearings in & out real easy and I am wondering what you all think as to if they are usable or not. I made a quick Youtube video so you all can see what I am talking about.
What do you all think??

what type of retaining compound did you try to use

This is what I have used over the years with out fail
make sure to read the instructions PDF file below

Note Cure Speed vs. Substrate It takes 72 hours to get full strength of cure on aluminum



LOCTITE® Product 680 is a high strength, single component anaerobic retaining adhesive for cylindrical joints. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces.

680 can be used with Loctite 7649 Primer N to increase cure speed.

Directions for use:
For Assembly
1. For best results, clean all surfaces (external and internal)
with a LOCTITE® cleaning solvent and allow to dry.
2. If the material is an inactive metal or the cure speed is too
slow, spray with Activator 7471™ or 7649™ and allow to
dry.
3. For Slip Fitted Assemblies, apply adhesive around the
leading edge of the pin and the inside of the collar and
use a rotating motion during assembly to ensure good
coverage.
4. For Press Fitted Assemblies, apply adhesive thoroughly
to both bond surfaces and assemble at high press on
rates.
5. For Shrink Fitted Assemblies the adhesive should be
coated onto the pin, the collar should then be heated to
create sufficient clearance for free assembly.
6. Parts should not be disturbed until sufficient handling
strength is achieved.
For Disassembly
1. Apply localized heat to the assembly to approximately
250 °C. Disassemble while hot. 482 degrees Fahrenheit
For Cleanup
1. Cured product can be removed with a combination of
soaking in a Loctite solvent and mechanical abrasion
such as a wire brush

INFO Sheet
https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/461C42048B60E62C882571870000D86B/$File/680-EN.pdf


and no I'M not a sales person for this product

thanks Speed

Thank you for the info Speed. The stuff I used was from Permatex (sp) & I forget the number. It was a sleeve retainer and supposed to be good up to 400* if I remember right. The one thing I noticed when I pulled it all back apart was there was dried up clumps of the retainer that got pushed down between the bearing and the seal after I pressed in the bearings. Of course with the bearings spinning in the cases it could have just worn off the retainer that was on the bearings and just left behind what was pushed down while pressing them in?? In hind site if I had maybe heated the cases first, maybe they would have expanded enough to get a better coat of the retainer between the bearings and the cases?

This may really be a dumb question but, another thing I was wondering about is, surely the cases and the bearings expand at different rates, so what keeps this from happening to all the cases?? I noticed on my Ody that when the Engine is cool you cant feel any movement in the clutch but after a long ride you can move the clutch back and forth maybe an 1/8". Then after it cools for a while it is tight again. I never thought to check my Pilot, but I will ASSume it does the same thing?? The point to this question is how would the bearing retainer hold up to the different amounts of expansion between the bearings and the cases??

Heat transfer should be from the cases to the bearing outer race I would think the cases would squeeze down on the outer race.

A old time Engine builder told me all these cases has a life, when you reach the end of their useful life you start seeing problems, problems like your having here, what happens is after hundreds of thousands of power cycles the bearing pocket actually gets slightly egg shape because the hammer blow of the power stroke is pretty much in the same place each time then the bearing is allowed to spin in the cases.

I have seen other 2 stroke engines like the quadzilla 500cc have crank bearing/case problems they were crappy cases by design, after market company's would machine out the cases and install a bigger stronger insert to cure the problem.

What ever you do save the cases don't toss them, I have a set of 350 cases in the same condition as yours some day they will be returned to service, back when 350 cases were really plentiful and cheap these cases were thrown in the scrap pile and rescued by me.

Case saver
Bearing locker
Bearing retainer

Thank you Hoser, I think I was looking at the heat transfer backwards thinking the cases would expand leaving less hold on the bearings. I will set them back under the bench until i can come up with a way to use them. I have had many post comments on this video so far, everything from peening the cases to welding the bearing to the case.

Here are the comments made, does any of this sound like it would work to you??

maybe a permanent loctite i think green is strongest good luck and make a vid of what you do
12 hours ago
Reply
don't drill the hole all the wat thru and pin it in two places instead goin all way thru
12 hours ago

Gotcha, Thanks
Rarerat 1 hour ago
BTW ,permatex #1 was a hardening compound and needed ample time to dry as #2 was nonhardning
12 hours ago
ive peened the the hole on different rear end housings before with a prick punch ,but i don't know that i would want to do it on an Engine case with much closer tolerences ,i think i would clean it real good and try a thin layer of permatex blue locktite ,or somthing of equal value ,ive taken apart automatic trans before and have found some type of compound akin to locktite on the bushings ,another forgoten compound is permatex gasket maker #1 ,not sure if they still make it (not silacone)
12 hours ago

Thank you
Rarerat 1 hour ago
Take a punch chisel and punch a few spots on the case. That will raise the metal just enough to hold the bearing. Combine that with sleve retainer and you'll be in good shape. I've done this before on automotive and trailer bearings and had great success! Good luck!
13 hours ago

Thank you
Rarerat 1 hour ago
one thing we used to do in the machine shop was with a ball peened hammer nock inside the case in a few spots and it will tighten it up a bit.
14 hours ago

Thank you
Rarerat 13 hours ago
SORRY 1/8TH NOT 1/4!!!!!
15 hours ago
RARERAT,,,HEY MAN,,,TAKE A 1/4 DRILL BIT,DRILL OUT RIGHT BESIDE THE BARRING SLOT,THIS WAY YOU CAN TIG THE BARRING AND IT WILL STOP IT FROM SPINNING OUT,,,PUTTING A WELD WILL HOLD IT PERFECT!!DONE THIS BEFORE AND SO FAR IT HAS STILL LASTED OVER 5 YEARS
15 hours ago

Thank you, are saying to weld the bearing to the case??
Rarerat 13 hours ago
they right way would be to tig it up and mill it out . the farmer fix would bee to take a sharp punch and peen case three times in a line from top to bottom at 12 oclock position and three and 6 and 9 o clock positions. and press it back in case. we have done this on spindles and shafts on combines. thrird suggestion on my new hemi with procharger we got a kit to drill the crank and balancer and tap in roll pin. to hold it cause there is no keyway
16 hours ago

I agree welding them up and re machining them would be the way to go, but unfortunately may cost more than finding replacements. I wasn't sure if peening them would hold or not? On drilling and pinning them, it might hold the bearing but since it's a 2 stroke, I would be worried about it sucking air. Great info, thank you.
Rarerat 13 hours ago
They are usable if you raise the metal on the case's before installing the bearings, i have done it before on M/C cases years ago..
16 hours ago

Thank you Dave
Rarerat 14 hours ago

wow just go caveman on them case half's



if your going to spend that much moneys on a bottom end rebuild I would just replace for some better case half's
you would be better off then trashing a whole "Engine"

SpeedChaser

lol..

Yep, the Zillas have this issue, very common. Figure a 500cc piston pounding a piece of Al for 20 yrs wears it out. My Zilla Engine comes apart this weekend, my machinist buddy is gonna do my inserts for me eventually.

I agree with speed about the loctite retaining compound. I have had good luck with the loctite brand products. Also you can go to loctites' site and look at their list of retaining compounds and they list the thickness, heat tolerences, etc. 680 is some strong stuff but maybe you can find a product that would be better for this application. I used the 680 on my 82 FL250. It had the same problem where the berring would slip right into the case. It lasted over three years and I rode the living daylights out of it. I ended up selling it so I don't know exactly how long it ended up lasting but it was nice and tight the entire time I owned it.

I used the same material that Speed recommended on a Tecate motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) recently, was pointed to it by a local machinist and the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) to date is fine, no issues.

Thanks guys I will try the next time.

Mud,
were your cases as loose as nine on your Tecate?

Yes.

man really I guess that would be like DUCK TAPE temp wrong way to fix things.
Brake down and save the money you can get a case for cheap on E-Bay.