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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 8:26 pm 
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Can I chime in for a second?.... Sounds like a spark plug going bad. I have had alot of them do that exactly. Install a new one then give it another try.

Gary


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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 9:43 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
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Location: Wichita ks
On the decked cylinder was he using the 85 or 88 head gasket.


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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 9:48 pm 
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Location: Chicago
adnoh wrote:
On the decked cylinder was he using the 85 or 88 head gasket.


No idea on what year design the gasket was, it was a after market gasket, whats the difference?


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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 10:12 pm 
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Location: Wichita ks
The 88,89 is thicker than 85. The old trick for the 88's was to get an 85 head gasket and bump comp or double the base gasket and use an 85 with reed spacer and rev pipe changeing port iming to top end. When the old 85 had to be deck a couple of times the 88 was used as a quick fix as not to cut and reshape head after decking. I have seen after some rebuilds where the 85 was used on a decked 85 it smacked the head or blowing head gaskets and they just keep rebuilding it untill it took out the crank or gernaded the case. If the conter balance area has a bolt head broke look close at the crank and counter balancer bearings it tends be an indacator of something bad happened. If the top grove in the ring area is smashed that also is a good indacater as well check diff from top and bottom ring end gap. may have a pressure problem takeing top ring out prematuraly. See if the rings were put on right first, that one miss lead me once and chased the wear the wrong way. That was a big smack on the back of my head, I over look the basics. That one got wrote down in big letters in the note book.


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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 10:35 pm 
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Location: Chicago
adnoh wrote:
The 88,89 is thicker than 85. The old trick for the 88's was to get an 85 head gasket and bump comp or double the base gasket and use an 85 with reed spacer and rev pipe changeing port iming to top end. When the old 85 had to be deck a couple of times the 88 was used as a quick fix as not to cut and reshape head after decking. I have seen after some rebuilds where the 85 was used on a decked 85 it smacked the head or blowing head gaskets and they just keep rebuilding it untill it took out the crank or gernaded the case. If the conter balance area has a bolt head broke look close at the crank and counter balancer bearings it tends be an indacator of something bad happened. If the top grove in the ring area is smashed that also is a good indacater as well check diff from top and bottom ring end gap. may have a pressure problem takeing top ring out prematuraly. See if the rings were put on right first, that one miss lead me once and chased the wear the wrong way. That was a big smack on the back of my head, I over look the basics. That one got wrote down in big letters in the note book.



Its not to late to assemble the top end and check the squish clearance with the decked cylinder and bad head gasket...


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 2:19 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Mudbogger wrote:
(I installed a Dial A jet and I'm not happy with it at all.)I think I'm going to try that carb you sold to me on it. :-)


I love my Dial a jet... I am not trying to be a smart ash but once you get your carb dialed in... Then add the dial a jet... Some have just installed the dial a jet on a new carb... I believe once you have your jetting like you want it, then you install the daj and drop 2 jet sizes on the main... I used mine today... Last serious riding was a few weeks back and in AZ, and today here in South Texas it was a miserably hot and humid day... I went one size smaller on the dial (less air) and felt comfortable with that... I am still no expert, but this thing gives me a better feeling on my jetting....
How is yours not working for you???


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 8:19 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5559
Location: New Jersey
Turbotexas wrote:
Mudbogger wrote:
(I installed a Dial A jet and I'm not happy with it at all.)I think I'm going to try that carb you sold to me on it. :-)


I love my Dial a jet... I am not trying to be a smart ash but once you get your carb dialed in... Then add the dial a jet... Some have just installed the dial a jet on a new carb... I believe once you have your jetting like you want it, then you install the daj and drop 2 jet sizes on the main... I used mine today... Last serious riding was a few weeks back and in AZ, and today here in South Texas it was a miserably hot and humid day... I went one size smaller on the dial (less air) and felt comfortable with that... I am still no expert, but this thing gives me a better feeling on my jetting....
How is yours not working for you???


The main trouble was mounting the adjuster block, you know the 1 with the zip tie method, theres really not a whole lot of room on the 250r air inlet to the box for it, it was a very tight install, plus the darn thing not running didn't help well at all.Your running your on the 350 correct?Nuke em will tell you theres not a whole heck of a lot of room from the carb outward, I wish I could take a picture of it, I will post for you to see.I couldnt use the other mounting sytle due to the bowl on the stock PE 38, it doesnt have a drain on it to insert the other piece-hope I am expalining it well here.I am totally open for ideas here on an install on it, I paid like hundred bucks for the darn thing-


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 8:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5559
Location: New Jersey
Nuke Em wrote:
Can I chime in for a second?.... Sounds like a spark plug going bad. I have had alot of them do that exactly. Install a new one then give it another try.

Gary


Nuke-em your right.I spent like 4 hrs on it last night, checking the stator, key way, wire harness, replaced the coil, measured OHMS and resisiteance, and finally came onto the trouble,

BAD KILL SWITCH-YUP the simpliest thing was the issue-I had purchased a OEM switch off Ebay when I bought the thing,so after a little quick fix cause the ends didnt match from old to new I plugged it and BAM, spark!!
yipee-then grrrrrrrr-kick kick kick no spark, check everything again.Nothing.I told myself, watch this bet that plug is bad, sure as a pig loves mud, put fresh 1 in br8es and walla licked over on first kick idesl great-I am in heaven finally
It still needs to be adjusted and the lock nut installed-long story there-but it runs great.


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 11:11 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I drilled and tapped my carb at the venturi opening(Air in from airbox not sure if venturi is proper term?) I was afraid of putting a hole into the rubber elbow and not liking it and being stuck with something I could not plug... Now how close to the carb did you get the box? and I am not sure what you are refering to on the bottom of the bowl. They make fittings that replace a threaded drain, or I have had to tap a hole in the #17 nut/drain also. If you can get some pictures Nuke um or I can help...


Mudbogger wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
Mudbogger wrote:
(I installed a Dial A jet and I'm not happy with it at all.)I think I'm going to try that carb you sold to me on it. :-)


I love my Dial a jet... I am not trying to be a smart ash but once you get your carb dialed in... Then add the dial a jet... Some have just installed the dial a jet on a new carb... I believe once you have your jetting like you want it, then you install the daj and drop 2 jet sizes on the main... I used mine today... Last serious riding was a few weeks back and in AZ, and today here in South Texas it was a miserably hot and humid day... I went one size smaller on the dial (less air) and felt comfortable with that... I am still no expert, but this thing gives me a better feeling on my jetting....
How is yours not working for you???


The main trouble was mounting the adjuster block, you know the 1 with the zip tie method, theres really not a whole lot of room on the 250r air inlet to the box for it, it was a very tight install, plus the darn thing not running didn't help well at all.Your running your on the 350 correct?Nuke em will tell you theres not a whole heck of a lot of room from the carb outward, I wish I could take a picture of it, I will post for you to see.I couldnt use the other mounting sytle due to the bowl on the stock PE 38, it doesnt have a drain on it to insert the other piece-hope I am expalining it well here.I am totally open for ideas here on an install on it, I paid like hundred bucks for the darn thing-


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 11:35 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5559
Location: New Jersey
I sure can get some pictures, I removed the old air inlet tube so I can show you where I installed it-I had to drill the hole in the drain plug as well for my fitting, could seal it right from day 1-you had to drill your carb, do you have a Picture by chance of where you drilled it by chance?

Got my new DURABLE antifade nut from ROCKY MTN and walla-fits like a glove on my LONESTAR AXLE-son of a bitch-ordered it for a 86-89 trx250r LONESTAR told me it wouldn't fit-losers-LOL!!
I installed the hub, new rear caliper and fresh plug, the thing after warming up is a rocket, I was so happy :-) , runs like I stole it!!!!!-needs final jetting and some tuning for low end throttle response but otherwise runs great.


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 12:57 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
My camera took a dump on me so I wont be able to post a picture now, but I drilled the clamp band first then went thru the rubber just enough to mark the carb... then removed all this and finished driling and then tapping the carb. I didn't use plumbers tape the first time, and had some problems... As far as where to mount it that depends on where you can get to it easily... You will need to be able to get a small screw driver into the slot to turn the adjuster, and you have to be able to see what you are doing... I remember right you can mount this anywhere from the 9 o'clock to the 3 o'clock position... Even if you never travel from place to place like I do I think you will like the added throttle response it will give you...
where you mounted into your rubber boot watch real closely for air leaks!!!

Mudbogger wrote:
I sure can get some pictures, I removed the old air inlet tube so I can show you where I installed it-I had to drill the hole in the drain plug as well for my fitting, could seal it right from day 1-you had to drill your carb, do you have a Picture by chance of where you drilled it by chance?

Got my new DURABLE antifade nut from ROCKY MTN and walla-fits like a glove on my LONESTAR AXLE-son of a bitch-ordered it for a 86-89 trx250r LONESTAR told me it wouldn't fit-losers-LOL!!
I installed the hub, new rear caliper and fresh plug, the thing after warming up is a rocket, I was so happy :-) , runs like I stole it!!!!!-needs final jetting and some tuning for low end throttle response but otherwise runs great.


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 10:06 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5559
Location: New Jersey
I'll grab some pictures for you tomorrow and post them for discussion-LOL


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2007 10:35 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5559
Location: New Jersey
Heres a pic for you, I mounted my adjuster right in after the intake tub clamp and the frame rail, it just fit in there.But it was really tight to say the least-got any ideas on a mounting location?BTW the fuel line has been replaced-LOL


Attachments:
File comment: just after the end of the carb and the frame rail was where I mounted mine
250r carb.jpg
250r carb.jpg [ 139.91 KiB | Viewed 9231 times ]
File comment: When purchased this is what it looked like
85 250R 001.jpg
85 250R 001.jpg [ 147.7 KiB | Viewed 9231 times ]
File comment: Completed and ready for riding
250 atc.jpg
250 atc.jpg [ 156.45 KiB | Viewed 9231 times ]
File comment: Hoser, heres that Durablue antifade on the Lonestar axle we were speaking about on the other form, fits like glove.
DURABLUE ANTIFADE NUT.jpg
DURABLUE ANTIFADE NUT.jpg [ 145.03 KiB | Viewed 9228 times ]
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2007 12:14 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
See picture I added some arrows to...
If you have yours where I think you do it should be ok as long it is above 9 oclock position... I have mine on the stock fuel tank side of the ODY at about 10:30 oclock...
What is it doing or not doing that is not right???


Attachments:
Web 250r_carb_136.jpg
Web 250r_carb_136.jpg [ 30.13 KiB | Viewed 9224 times ]
250r_carb_136.jpg
250r_carb_136.jpg [ 55.26 KiB | Viewed 9224 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2007 8:51 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2004 8:45 pm
Posts: 2243
Mudbogger wrote:
Nuke Em wrote:
Can I chime in for a second?.... Sounds like a spark plug going bad. I have had alot of them do that exactly. Install a new one then give it another try.

Gary


Nuke-em your right.I spent like 4 hrs on it last night, checking the stator, key way, wire harness, replaced the coil, measured OHMS and resisiteance, and finally came onto the trouble,

BAD KILL SWITCH-YUP the simpliest thing was the issue-I had purchased a OEM switch off Ebay when I bought the thing,so after a little quick fix cause the ends didnt match from old to new I plugged it and BAM, spark!!
yipee-then grrrrrrrr-kick kick kick no spark, check everything again.Nothing.I told myself, watch this bet that plug is bad, sure as a pig loves mud, put fresh 1 in br8es and walla licked over on first kick idesl great-I am in heaven finally
It still needs to be adjusted and the lock nut installed-long story there-but it runs great.


Thanks! I got one right, a blind squirrel finds a nut now and again...LOL.

funny, I am looking at Durablue and Lonestar axles w/anti fade nuts for my trike too. I just picked up a used Lonestar double roller carrier and bearings for $45 on Ebay. SCORE! I let my stocker's bearings go too long and ruined the carrier. That will teach me. Any tips on which axle or interchangability (400ex,300ex,250R). There is a guy on 3WheelerWorld selling a very nice round tube +2 swinger, if you are interested.

Hoser, Fed has completed about 8 DVDs. I need to get everyones addresses for shipping. I have Dennis's, Jerry's and I think yours.

Gary


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2007 9:02 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Quote:
Hoser, Fed has completed about 8 DVDs. I need to get everyones addresses for shipping. I have Dennis's, Jerry's and I think yours.

Gary


WOW your kidding right, just a tease or is their a real video now?

I think the best thing to do would be to start another post to collect the addresses ?

Cant wait to see it.


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2007 9:27 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5559
Location: New Jersey
Nuke Em wrote:
Mudbogger wrote:
Nuke Em wrote:
Can I chime in for a second?.... Sounds like a spark plug going bad. I have had alot of them do that exactly. Install a new one then give it another try.

Gary


Nuke-em your right.I spent like 4 hrs on it last night, checking the stator, key way, wire harness, replaced the coil, measured OHMS and resisiteance, and finally came onto the trouble,

BAD KILL SWITCH-YUP the simpliest thing was the issue-I had purchased a OEM switch off Ebay when I bought the thing,so after a little quick fix cause the ends didnt match from old to new I plugged it and BAM, spark!!
yipee-then grrrrrrrr-kick kick kick no spark, check everything again.Nothing.I told myself, watch this bet that plug is bad, sure as a pig loves mud, put fresh 1 in br8es and walla licked over on first kick idesl great-I am in heaven finally
It still needs to be adjusted and the lock nut installed-long story there-but it runs great.


Thanks! I got one right, a blind squirrel finds a nut now and again...LOL.

funny, I am looking at Durablue and Lonestar axles w/anti fade nuts for my trike too. I just picked up a used Lonestar double roller carrier and bearings for $45 on Ebay. SCORE! I let my stocker's bearings go too long and ruined the carrier. That will teach me. Any tips on which axle or interchangability (400ex,300ex,250R). There is a guy on 3WheelerWorld selling a very nice round tube +2 swinger, if you are interested.

Hoser, Fed has completed about 8 DVDs. I need to get everyones addresses for shipping. I have Dennis's, Jerry's and I think yours.

Gary


45 BUCKS??? HOLY COW-thats a steal,good for you-thats great find.I have a extra set of rear bearings brand new if you need them, OEM honda with seals.I just bought that swinger off a guy on the 3 wheeler board, it is a 86 I changed out the 85-I still have a complete 85 swinger with seals and bushings as well, that's bolt in, nothing needed.I just picked up a Durablue +2 AXLE for the ride/I ordered everything for my axle bearing carrier application for a 86-89 trx250r I have been told that the swingers and associated hardware are all the same-Hoser has a new trx250 baord you can accesss form the Home page there may be something there for you as well.The antifade nut I ordered for a trx250r slid right onto my axle for my 86 swinger, I have been told via the forums that any axlke will fit any carrier but I am hesitant to believe that IMO.'
wHAT CARB gARY are you currently running in yours?Wiggins went to a flatsdie 39mm pwk, have you ever ran 1 by chance ?I as the picture shows are currently running stock with a 148 main(let me check that may be stock I forget have it written down somewhere here)


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2007 2:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
See picture I added some arrows to...
If you have yours where I think you do it should be ok as long it is above 9 oclock position... I have mine on the stock fuel tank side of the ODY at about 10:30 oclock...
What is it doing or not doing that is not right???




http://www.thunderproducts.com/dial_a_jet.htm



Image


Image


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2007 2:16 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
The cool thing about this installation is you get a built in sight glass to your fuel level in the carb.

Say the red line is the fuel level in the carb, a liquid seeks its own level so look at the line (green arrow ) to see the level in the carb.

NOTE to use this for a level indicator, after running the Engine a while I would kill the Engine then remove the blue tube from the top and check the level, some of the gas in the tube will run back to the carb I don't think this volume of gas will affect the reading much unless its a real long hose :shock:


Attachments:
fuel level.jpg
fuel level.jpg [ 9.23 KiB | Viewed 9269 times ]
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2007 3:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5559
Location: New Jersey
I'll check the extra carb I have to see if I can install that way Hoser-I didnt like the looping of the fuel line that is required from DIAL A JET .


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2007 8:58 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
mine is actually closer to the airbox, where the band clamp is at... I will try putting mine further back on my next carb...


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2007 9:01 pm 
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Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
mine is actually closer to the airbox, where the band clamp is at... I will try putting mine further back on my next carb...


HUH?

You have pics I don't get it.

Correct me if I am wrong but this needs to be mounted as close to the venturi as possible for the best carb signal, gas comes out the little rod that sticks into the air flow, the fuel needs to be atomized so it will burn correctly, you don't just want gas dribbling into the Engine.


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2007 9:13 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Gas and air mixed gomes out the brass tube... see the pictures with the arrows... I drilled thru the band clamp and the carb.... so when I remove the carb from the ody airboot and carb come as one... The DAJ site's pictures show them box mounted closer to the venturi...

hoser wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
mine is actually closer to the airbox, where the band clamp is at... I will try putting mine further back on my next carb...


HUH?

You have pics I don't get it.

Correct me if I am wrong but this needs to be mounted as close to the venturi as possible for the best carb signal, gas comes out the little rod that sticks into the air flow, the fuel needs to be atomized so it will burn correctly, you don't just want gas dribbling into the Engine.


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PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2007 9:04 am 
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Posts: 5559
Location: New Jersey
There are 2 installtion methods in the dirtections, I performed the 1 where you install the dial as close to the carb as possible in the intake tube, the other is actually drilling the carb abd installing-but both I believe have the same premise, to have the brass pin as close to the venturi as possible.I'll stop and get my directions and read up on them, Ican be more specific at that time.


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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2007 10:49 pm 
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Location: New Jersey
Holy cow my spelling stinks :-)


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