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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 6:36 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Ok here is the complete Engine he sent.

Great packing .


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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 6:38 pm 
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Location: Chicago
First thing I noticed was the fitting in the head you hook the radiator hose to was missing then I noticed the head gasket bulging out the head.


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wiggins head gasket bad1.jpg
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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 6:39 pm 
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Location: Chicago
With the head off, never seen this before.


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gasket head bad wig.jpg
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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 6:39 pm 
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Location: Chicago
A close up of the gasket.


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head gasket bad.jpg
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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 6:40 pm 
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Location: Chicago
The head


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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 6:40 pm 
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Top of the cylinder.


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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 6:42 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Their is a case repair that includes a pop rivet and epoxy not sure what that's all about.


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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 6:42 pm 
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Plenty of coolant in bottom end.


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coolant in crank.jpg
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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 6:45 pm 
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Location: Chicago
The cylinder wear is not that much but the piston looks new it cant have but a hours run time on it, it looks like the piston was replaced without honing the cylinder?


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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 6:47 pm 
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Location: Chicago
The intake matches the reed cage stuffer like a AfterThought product :-)

Its a easy fix I will install the Rad Valve...


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intake not matched1.jpg
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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 10:22 pm 
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Location: Wichita ks
I have seen a head gasket like that but not as bad. I traced to bad head studs and nuts that looked like it was over torgued and nut had been well used. When I tried to hand thread them on they bound on the studs and a new nut bound on two studs. They tried to make repair in the field and ran the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) with the old gasket and blew it out. The one I seen was a 85 model. I ended up putting new studs and nuts the head was warped and had to be surfaced and recut as well as bearing and seals and other misc. parts. I would defently check the jug and head on that one. It also looks like it had antifrezze ran through it I hope the crank is ok. I have seen the crank lock up and twist when that happens. The antifreeze added a lot of head pressure that's bad on the crank train. Good luck with that one.


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2007 6:11 pm 
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I am assuming its an 86 from the grey factory paint. Did you figure out what the pop rivit and JB weld was hiding? Why is the head gasket blocking most of the water passages, non-stock? I have several jugs(no jokes please, LOL) if he needs one, have him PM me. They are all ported, no stockers except for the one that is still being used. Keep us posted on progress!

Gary


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2007 8:11 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Nuke Em wrote:
I am assuming its an 86 from the grey factory paint. Did you figure out what the pop rivit and JB weld was hiding? Why is the head gasket blocking most of the water passages, non-stock? I have several jugs(no jokes please, LOL) if he needs one, have him PM me. They are all ported, no stockers except for the one that is still being used. Keep us posted on progress!

Gary


Both cylinders he has are usable, cylinder is painted gray but casting says its a 85 probably a carry over from 85?

Their was a welded case repair in that area but it started leaking, that was a repair done in the middle of a riding trip, guess it holds, he is looking for another left case have one?

Dunno anyhting about the head gasket other than he said it was a cheap brand I will compare the coolant holes with a Honda gasket later in the build and post pics.


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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2007 5:48 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Removing the right side cover where the clutch is located, lots of clutch gook settled in the cases.


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clutch gook1.jpg
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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2007 5:52 pm 
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Location: Chicago
The metal keeper for the clutch nut has seen its better days, a new one will be ordered, fact is I will order a spare one for my TRX I am sure its getting bad too.


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lock plate junk.jpg
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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2007 5:56 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Hinson clutch basket, I need one of these too heh


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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2007 6:01 pm 
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Location: Chicago
I measured the cylinder height because I could see where the top of the cylinder looks like it had been machined.

This cylinder measured 4.833" tall
The other wiggins cylinder with the silicone on the head gasker area measured 4.930

The cylinder that came with my TRX250R measures 4.932" tall.

So it looks like someone 'decked' the cylinder or removed about .100 from I assume the top of the cylinder, they might have removed some from the bottom and the top I just don't know maybe after measuring from the top of the ports to the top of the cylinder and from the bottoms of the ports to the bottom of the cylinder I can tell?


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machine marks.jpg
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cylinder measure.jpg
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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2007 6:03 pm 
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Location: Chicago
The machining done was not all that great its a real rough cut, I lapped the top of the cylinder a little to see how bad it was.

The red arrow its smoothed out the blue next to it is still rough and uneven, not desirable for trying to seal a head gasket.


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machine marks after some lapping.jpg
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cylinder after lap.jpg
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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2007 6:05 pm 
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Location: Chicago
I broke out the molding silicone to see just how bad the ports line up with the cast liner as usual they don't match very well and need some major correction.


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250R molding.jpg
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250R molding1.jpg
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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2007 6:07 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Once cooled and removed I propped them up against the piston and next to the cylinder to give you an idea where they fall in the system.

Red arrows point to miss matching.

Its a time consuming procedure but required if you want true performance gains.


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port mold wig3.jpg
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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2007 6:22 pm 
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Location: Chicago
The cylinder bore of the cylinder with the deck that has been cut is 2.6505 or 67.32mm

The other cylinder that had the silicone head gasket is 2.616 66.44mm


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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 10:28 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5559
Location: New Jersey
Hoser that port molding, I have never even heard of that-wow-are you going to address that with a dremel inside that jug to match it correctly, or is that something that requires a fresh bore?
Also were did you find that casting on the jug for the year, I would like to check mine out as well,good to know what I got since I purchased it used I think I may have a spark issue with mine currently, won't run, may be carb related though (I installed a Dial A jet and I'm not happy with it at all.)
I think I'm going to try that carb you sold to me on it. :-)


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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 11:19 am 
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Location: Chicago
Mudbogger wrote:
Hoser that port molding, I have never even heard of that-wow-are you going to address that with a dremel inside that jug to match it correctly, or is that something that requires a fresh bore?
Also were did you find that casting on the jug for the year, I would like to check mine out as well,good to know what I got since I purchased it used I think I may have a spark issue with mine currently, won't run, may be carb related though (I installed a Dial A jet and I'm not happy with it at all.)
I think I'm going to try that carb you sold to me on it. :-)


You think you have spark problems?

Can you describe in detail what the problem is and how its running?

This isnt a case of you did too many changes at one time?


A quick way to rule out carb problems would be to install that carb I sent you.

At the bottom of the cylinder liner the year is cast into liner.

The cylinder in the pic came off a 86 it is painted gray, the casting says its a 85, probably a left over from 85, I don't think their was any difference between the 85 86 other than color.???


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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 1:14 pm 
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Location: Chicago
More mold pics


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transfer-250-mold.jpg
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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 5:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5559
Location: New Jersey
You think you have spark problems?

Can you describe in detail what the problem is and how its running?

This isnt a case of you did too many changes at one time?


A quick way to rule out carb problems would be to install that carb I sent you.

At the bottom of the cylinder liner the year is cast into liner.

I think so.The 250r will start up, but dies immed after a few revs, seems to me it is either losing spark.The bowl has a dial a jet INSTALLED in the drain plug with the fuel line coming out to the adjuster-there is fuel in the bowl, the fitting I installed is leaking slightyl(go figure)but there is fuel in it, I will do as you told me and take the line out,install a clear tube and see what the level of the fuel is.I am currently using the carb you sold me, but if I remember I didn't clean it out-DUH-So I'll remove it and check the internals out on it for sure this week.I have the stock carb as well I rebuilt as a spare that I can install as well too see if the carb is the issue.
The 250r will start up, you can rev it a couple if times, then it bogs out and dies, even when you give it gas it dies,it seems like the carb just runs out of gas but I'm not sure, I am hoping that dam dial a jet isnt causing the issue but I can't rule it out currently.


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