Mudbogger wrote:
wow, DAM! THANK YOU! I just got that cylinder back from a company called US CHROME and very upsdet indeed.I would think they would check the surfaces on the jugs before doing any process, but I assumed instead of asking. Speed, do you think I caused the variances in the base surfaces of the jug by going with the file and paper route? I must tell you, when I put the cases together and installed the jug I noticed as well the rocking of the jug on them, but my inexperience in rebuilding left me thinking I could lapp that away. I knew it was not correct, but did not understand how it needed to be fixed properly-I do now!
Now squish and such, the amount taken off is really going to be effected I think.A OEM base gasket is 0.047mm thick, the thickest I have found is a WISECO which is 0.053mm before torquing.I am curious to see if the gasket has to be increased on either end of the jug to get the squish in right.I have not checked squish in some time.
Again, thanks so so much for your time and free schooling to me and the others here.I could not do what I do with out you!! By the way, what do you think would cause the cases to be so out? I checked the dowels, they were in good shape, shouldn't the cases all be within some tolerances?
I think the case half's are machine as a match set or one of them where lapped before or machined down
now the cylinder most shops don't use the base surface to machine off of they use the top surface
I would not think 400 grit paper would not crown it like it was in less you did it for hours and a few beer later
well the quick way to check squish is to use some oil base clay and stick it on the top of the piston then bolt the head on.
then turn the
Engine over piston up then down
pull the head off and see how thick the clay is this is not the perfect way to do it but you will get the just of it .
speed
PS what is the crank shaft for ? need to be rebuilt ?