Can someone please take a picture of there stator installed on their oddy. I don't have points. SO hopefully someone has this set up with out points too!

If you could just pull off the starter and snap a pic. I think that will help me with my timing and I can see what it is supposed to look like. It will also give me an idea of where to start with advancing the stator to fix the timing.

Found a write up here

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/pilot-od ... fl250.html

Here is how to change the timing to 16 degrees BTDC. With the stator and flywheel on, push the piston to BDC with a dowel or screwdriver and hold it there. Scratch a mark on the stator that lines up with the second firing mark. (There are three marks on the stock flywheel. One marked "T" for TDC (Top Dead Center) and two more. The one you want to scratch a line beside now is the one closest to the "T".) Remove the stator and slot the holes about 8mm longer to the left when viewed from the top. (doing this lets you rotate the stator clockwise.) Put the stator back in and turn it roughly 6 degrees but don't tighten the screws, you need to be able to rotate the stator. Install the flywheel and key. Push the piston to BDC and hold it, turning the stator until the mark you just made lines up with the first firing mark (The one furthest from the "T" mark.) Now remove the flywheel and tighten the stator screws. Install the flywheel and key and torque the flywheel nut. Once more, push the piston to BDC and check to be sure that the mark furthest from "T" still lines up with your scribed mark. Now you can run your Engine at much higher rpm's with less chance of detonation and longer over-rev The Engine is the same basic design as the CR250M, which is a pretty wild machine. The easiest way to get more high revving power is to bolt on the top-end from the CR. In doing this, you will lose some bottom end power, but once it comes into the power in the midrange, it pulls hard right up to a screaming top-end at about 8500RPM. My clutch engages at about 3800RPM and it will still madly spin the tires from a stop.

Did it work?

It fires with a little starter fluid and the choke all the way on. Then it starts to idle out of control and I have to kill the Engine.

that's as far as I got today and I'm at whits end. I'm ready to have the stock cylinder bored out and going back to stock!

Idles out of control? Here are a few questions for you.

Slide is closing properly?
Boot is free of cracks?
Running out of fuel? is it gravity fed? Usually gravity fed alone is insufficient at meeting demand.
Are you using the crank to power a fuel pump? If not make sure its plugged up and free of leaks otherwise.
Other Engine leaks? When it starts Idling out of control begin to cut off the intake from receiving air. see how far you can close it off before it begins to respond. If you close it off all the way it will die regardless as no air is pulling mixture from the carb.

Idles out of control? Here are a few questions for you.

Slide is closing properly? It slides freely up and down. The idle screw is almost all the way in. Its the only position it will run in.
Boot is free of cracks? Brand new
Running out of fuel? I think the float is set good. I've gone as far as taking off the carb and removing the bowl to inspect the fuel level and it was pretty full.
is it gravity fed? NO Usually gravity fed alone is insufficient at meeting demand.
Are you using the crank to power a fuel pump? Yes
If not make sure its plugged up and free of leaks otherwise. will double check the line tomorrow
Other Engine leaks? I put it together so it would not suprise me but I used new gaskets and torqued to specs.
When it starts Idling out of control begin to cut off the intake from receiving air. see how far you can close it off before it begins to respond. If you close it off all the way it will die regardless as no air is pulling mixture from the carb. I will play with the screws tomorrow as well.