Completely disassemble the carburetor and spray out all of the passages with carburetor cleaner. Next blow out all of the passages with compressed air. Make sure all of the passages are clean and clear. I would suggest a soak in a good carburetor cleaner per the manufacturers recommendations. I use Berryman Chem dip.

Re-install the the air screw by turning it in (gently) until it stops and the back it out 2 turns. Fine tune the air screw to instructions on page 8-5.

Adjust the float level per section 8-5 of the manual.

Rand

Okay will do,

But in my last picture of me measuring the float hieght, is that the corrct way to do it?

My manual is from the internet so the pictures are blurry, but it is still useful.

I just want to make sure I don't mess this up.

Thanks,

Silver_Pharaoh

As far as I can see in you picture, yes you are checking the floats correctly.

Rand

Excellent!

I just had my dinner, so I'll be in the shop cleaning the carb!

I'll post back later tonight!

Silver_Pharaoh

Okay, the carb is spotless, and all needles are clean.

Idle screw is the same as before I took the carb apart: 2 1/4 turns from screwed all the way in.

Air screw is now at 2.5 turns from screwed all the way in. (it used to be 3 1/4 but that was just a temporary setting in effort to reduce fuel usage)

Let me know if these setings are too lean or rich, as I'll install the carb tomorrow and take it for a boot up the road.

Silver_Pharaoh

Just got back from a quick ride,

Acceleration seems slower today and the Engine seems hotter also...

I attempted to adjust the idle screw (as it died after the ride) but it's almost in all the way and it idles, but still bounces around like a kangaroo.

Also, I could barely adjust the air-fuel screw because of it's bounciness it also seemed to run smokier today (too rich?)
I put it back to 2.5 turns from screwed all the way and I'll reset the idle back to 2 1/4 turn from screwed in too.

Oddly enough, it idled very well when it was cold....

What the heck is up with it today?

Silver_Pharaoh

Oops! forgot to mention, the only plugs my dad could find were BPR7ES (it used to have BPR9ES I think...) what should a 1982 FL250 be using? my shop manual says 1981 uses B7ES the 1980 addendum says BR7ES and the 1981 addendum says BR8ES?????

Wait, are my plugs even the right ones?

(read the bottom of my last post)

before I cleaned the carb, my plugs were dry but black and sooty. my dad said it's still too rich.

now, they are a bit wetter and my cylinder head has some oil around the plugs...

is this a concern?

Silver_Pharaoh

Sorry for all the questions...

Did you ever verify timing? Could you exhaust be plugged?

I run BR8ES plugs in my fl250

I just re-installed the exhaust (It's not original, some performance muffler my dad bought, I think it's a DG? or something)
It was loose (still is) because I lost all but 1 spring that holds it together on the trails. I'm using mechanic's wire to hold it all together and it's clean.

And how does one verify timing?
Does it require a tear down? If so, I will wait until my dad can help me, but he seems busy on his days off =(

One last thing, is 3 1/4 turns out from screwed in too much for the air screw?
I put the nut back into the overflow tube (that shouldn't damage the carb right) to prevent the fuel "leak"
I just want to ensure that I set all the jets and needles right.

Silver_Pharaoh

Unfortunate news folks,

My oddy doesn't want to idle much anymore =(

I've got 2 possible causes:
1: Air fuel ratio is not correct (probably too rich)
or
3: the idle screw is getting "stuck" in the groove it has made in the throttle slide (like was discussed earlier)

if it's the latter, I'll most likely fill the grove with JB weld as a permanent fix--I can't afford a new slide or carb..

if not, I'll get my dad to set the air screw because I can't get it because of it shaking so much.
I'd also like to check the timing as mentioned before, I'll ask google but if you guys know how, please let me know

many thanks again!
Silver_Pharaoh

Read the manual!

Rand

Yes Randman, I did but it says "connect the wires in accordance with the instructions provided with the service tool"

What tool? I only have the odyssey

unfortunately, I don't have the funds or time to buy the tool if I can even find it...

Is there some other way to test the timing?

Silver_Pharaoh

I'm sorry for being so impatient here, but it's my day off today and I really wanted to get the oddy running perfectly but I don't want to do it in the rain right now ;)

Anyway, i spoke to my dad and explained the timing test. He says he has another tool that will confirm it for us too, so I suppose i can complete the test sometime on the weekend. Then we can see if the timing is causing all the shaking.

Also I'm going to fill in the groove in the slide as well that way we can set the idle properly and then set the air screw finally!

I appreciate the help, and I'll post back the results when I can do the timing test.


Thanks again,

Silver_Pharaoh

Just a word from the wise old guy.......Impatience can get you into trouble.....ask me how I know!

Get your timing set correctly before you start using things like JB weld on the carb slide because incorrect timing can cause problems with idle adjustments.

Remember, take your time grasshopper.....it will still be there tomorrow.

Rand (old guy)

Ahh thank-you for the advice!

Sometimes I get itchy to just get it done so I can use it...

But yes, I will test the timing first then fix the slide then adjust everything till it runs nice!



Thanks guys!

I never would have thought about the timing in the first place.

Silver_Pharaoh

Hey guys, I forgot to mention... I checked the compression the other day, and after a few pulls it was about 118 psi. the Engine was semi-cold though. 118 should be enough right?

I also just read that I should hold the throttle open... I didn't though...

After all, we did just install a new piston and rings....

Silver_Pharaoh

The cylinder head is pinged a bit from the old piston blowing up, but my dad said it shouldn't be a problem as it's not that bad..

Hello again!

I'm sorry that I haven't replied lately, I haven't had the time to work on the oddy...

Anyway, I was able to fill the groove on the throttle slide with cold weld (that's the brand I think) but I did not put enough hardener in the mix and I took the oddy for a boot today and the cold weld just let go and did not stick to the slide.

So I mixed up a stronger batch, used brake cleaner to remove any grease and gas and dried it up then applied the new cold weld batch.

If this does not work, I'll most likely buy a new carb or a carb repair kit I found on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Repair-Kit-Honda-Odyssey-FL250R-Honda-ORV-/261234219885

Should I find a new carb? if so advise me on where to look and what to buy as [url]odysseysalvage.com[/url] is no longer active on the internet..

Or should a repair kit fix it all (Will it fix the overflow issue I have?)

Thanks,
Silver_Pharaoh

Hey guys,

Sorry for not posting...
Anyway, I bought JB Weld Steel Stick and repaired the groove in the slide. She's never purred so well before!

Now that it runs very well, my next task (one day) is to fix the exhaust leak I seem to have. My DG exhaust seems a little bit bigger than the exhaust port so there is a fair amount of oily exhaust dripped on the back of the Engine. (right under the exhaust port)

This little leak should have a large effect on performance right? or fuel economy for that matter?
I know that the vibrations / echos the pipe make keeps the fuel / air mix from leaking out the exhaust port right?

Thanks again guys,

Silver_Pharaoh

still running?

Oh hey guys!

Glad I still got the email notification about this forum. :)



Yessir! Still running.
I bought a new recoil for it as mine... well disintegrated :p

Throttle slide patch job still holding up, took it for a boot around the block a few weeks ago.
Not impressed with the fuel economy, it used up 5 liters of fuel in about 10 minutes

Need to figure out why, I don't remember it using up so much.....

on the 2 plug holes issue,, as said above the second hole was for a compression release on the old elsenor,, what i do,, used to race these things so ran a B9 for race use but on cool mornings it was hard to start with a plug that cold so used a B7 (stock) in the second hole just for starting, once the Engine is warm just switch the plug wire over to the B9, its better for hot weather (as in desert) also ,, lets the Engine run a bit cooler,,