it has been puffing smoke from the exhaust by the head.

I think I found the problem, this was just wrapped around the pipe....



other pic's to make sure all is normal build up and if I should clean it?







so e-bay has a metal o-ring and a fiber type as well, my question is does it need both? and what order do they go in?
I also read the back of my hi-temp silicone sealer, it says gasoline will break it down. what type do you guys use?

thanks any help would be great. Peter

what she looks like, I plan on cutting out the side bars and I will leave the top bars and the bars over the steering pillar and to the frame and front bumper. too much trouble to get into with those side bars.

I am having the same issue with my fl350 right now. I broke the metal seal ring. Have tried the red high temp silicone and it didn't hold. Maybe I didn't clean it up well enough because the red silicon worked well between muffler and pipe joint.
Do you have a manual ?? It should show in there.
You can get a few PDF manual. Just go to the search box and type in "manuals". Its a post I put up.

I went to NAPA and got a friend of mine to find a donut gasket to fit the inside of my pipe and then I made the inside of the gasket fit on the flange. It is alittle bit of effort to slide it on but it doesn't leak. I think that the high temp silicone that you buy is not capable of the high temp that close to the cylinder along with the fuel/oil mixture that is passing and is not burned. I would clean all of the build-up out before I put it back together. Thanks Billy

High temp silicone will take the heat I have used it on air cooled and liquid cooled 2 stroke pipes for years, clean and allowing it to cure a full 24 hours is the key if you cant commit to 100% clean and a full 24 hrs to cure don't bother even trying it you will be disappointed, one time on my Pilot I allowed it to cure 4-5 hrs then decided to check my compression you guessed it the exhaust leaked and required me to DO IT OVER again lesson learned the pressure pulse in the pipe was strong enough to make it blow the silicone out thin enough after a few hrs of run time it leaked.

Silicone will NOT stick to anything with any type or form of oil residue on it its resistant to oil.

You can try valve packing material in place of the metal ring I have been told it works well as well as a proper fitting O ring.
http://www.azpartsmaster.com/Products/V ... hCFE7w_wcB

thanks for the help, I guess Honda still carries these o rings according to partszilla.
will prob just grab the right parts. I noticed my high temp silicone is copper, so I guess I need the red/orange.

maybe one day I can ride this...

so far Its got new:

nos tie rods and ends
bearings/seals rear
90 degree fuel filter
moose air filter
fuel pump/carb rebuild
coil/condenser
break pads/drums springs
kill switch "from a broken Honda rototiller" freebee and oem fits perfect

what I need:

80's trx front and rear hubs, I want 4 bolt and 1peice 9"/10"rims
drive belt
reduction chain, I looked at mine I think its fine. from the worn out pictures I saw, mine looks great and wont touch the side of the gearbox.
fuel T/new lines
rims and tires
some type of fox used take off shock. if I can ever figure out what ones work , sled or atv maybe?

yeah got some work ahead of me before I can ride it.

I hate thread jacking, but similar question:

My FL250 has a rather large exhaust leak as well. Right in the same spot, but I have an aftermarket DG muffler and what looks like a non OEM flange.

My springs that hold the muffler are gone, so I'm using mechanics wire to hold it in place. It still leaks though.

Would something like this cause me to burn about 5 liters of fuel in just 10 minutes?
'Cause that's whats happening to me right now.....

well Honda still has the springs, http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/ATV/1979/FL250+A/MUFFLER/parts.html




fuel diagram


does it leak fuel from the overflow-check your float? if you have a after market pipe, I'm sure you will need to re-jet your carb.
also an air leak will make it run lean, exhaust, air box, intake. once you have all leaks sealed and the air filter, fuel system on, you can start your correct jetting. then you can plug chop to test jetting.
make sure you have the right fuel pump and 3way check valve to return over pressurized fuel to the tank.

any other mods?

that's where I would start, good luck

Will do.
Gotta make time :p

Also, still have the check valve, that works fuel does return to the tank.
Different pump though. I believe it's the mikuni replacement. Original pump was toast when I got the oddy.

Only funny thing is fuel drips out the overflow. fixed it for now by pluggin the hose with a screw :p

if every thing is set right, might want to check the float for sinking "leaks"

I would not plug that leak with a screw. is your exhaust all fuel soaked now?
what does your plug look like after the 5liter, 10minute ride?

Plug - dry as a bone

Float still floats :p
Bought a new needle valve&seat for the carb off fleabay. Never opened fresh from Honda when they still made parts, so it cuts off fuel to the bowl like it should.

Exhaust pipe is wet looking, especially where it is leaking.
So much oil there it was dripping and built up. Must have been leaking for a long time.