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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 10:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 19, 2014 9:57 pm
Posts: 4
Hello everyone, I’m new to this forum, and this is my first post. My father use to have fl250’s when I was a teen, so in need of some toys, and since he is living with my wife and I, over the last year we bought 4 four fl250s is various conditions for really good prices. The one that was most complete is an 82. The guy said it would not pull start do to a fuel issue, but he poured some fuel in carb and it fired right up. For $525 dollars I thought it was a steal. We took out the fuel tank and carb, cleaned them, replaced all the fuel line, added a new fuel filter, put everything back together and it now pull starts; however, to our disappointment it smokes like crazy, won’t stay running by itself once warm, and its spitting fuel out of air intake. We tried to adjust the 2 screws the manual talks about, but still can’t seem to get it to stay alive without help. Any help/tips would be great. Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 11:20 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 04, 2014 3:22 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Washington
is this stock? or after market stuff like pipe , carb ect?

i'd do a compression test and leak down test first off.

then check for air leaks, maybe a cracked intake boot and exhaust leaks?

air fuel screw once all the way screwed in, back it out 1 and 1/2 turns. adjusting out 1/4 turn till it runs right.
is your fuel pump and check valve installed?

what fuel mix you running and spark plugs?

gonna need some info to help you.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 3:39 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 19, 2014 9:57 pm
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We will be doing a compression test this week when we get a chance.

Everything is stock including the fuel pump.
We did a 25:1 mix on the oil. The manual says 20:1 and everywhere I read says 30:1 so I figured somewhere in between would be a good start.

Intake boot looked good.

What should the throttle screw be set at ( which I believe is big one on the upper left side) when I am first trying to set the other screw?

Thanks,

Craig


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:01 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 04, 2014 3:22 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Washington
well 32:1 is the ratio you want to run. better oils these days with full synthetic.
i warm mine up with br7es plug on the angled one "hotter plug makes easy starting"
then i switch over to br9es plug once warm. to run cooler.

i would clean the exhaust and new gaskets for intake and exhaust to start off, after the compression test.

Pete


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 10:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Have you tried to ride it yet and it sputters then or just at idle ?

Is normal for a piston port 2 stroke Engine to spit a little fuel out the intake side of the carb at lower RPMs so I would not focus on that too much at this point I would look more towards a restricted exhaust pipe if you can see fuel spitting back out the carb I assume you have tried it with the intake off so the intake being restricted is not the issue.

So many issues could cause the problem you describe my reply is just a guess based on you saying it has not been run in a while.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 12:41 pm 
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Thanks for everyone's help. What should compression be on a stock fl250?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 3:52 pm 
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Location: Washington
120-150 i think is what you want.

Pete


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 11:48 am 
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Update: The plug the guy we bought it from had in it was wrong. A new plug fixed some issues, but we still were having problems so we took off the carb and rebuilt it. When we were working on it we noticed one of the jets was plugged! If you held the new one and old one up to the light you could not see though the old one. Blew on it and it was clean again; however, we put the whole cab kit in just to be thorough. It funny because this carb looked very clean when we opened it up a few weeks ago and even sprayed some carb cleaner just to be safe, but we did not think it needed anything more. Once back together we got it started, adjusted the screws, and the thing runs like a champ. Drove it up and down the street and we are talking it to the beach it a couple of weeks. The compression was around 124 cold and a little under 120 when warmed up. I think it should get a rebuild but I want to take it out a couple times first since it’s my only running toy. Out next project is a 1977 that we are doing a frame up restoration on. It’s already stripped, frame is mostly sandblasted, and it will need some minor welding. The hope it by next summer have 2-3 to take to the beach. Thanks for the help!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 3:34 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
CraigS wrote:
Update: The plug the guy we bought it from had in it was wrong. A new plug fixed some issues, but we still were having problems so we took off the carb and rebuilt it. When we were working on it we noticed one of the jets was plugged! If you held the new one and old one up to the light you could not see though the old one. Blew on it and it was clean again; however, we put the whole cab kit in just to be thorough. It funny because this carb looked very clean when we opened it up a few weeks ago and even sprayed some carb cleaner just to be safe, but we did not think it needed anything more. Once back together we got it started, adjusted the screws, and the thing runs like a champ. Drove it up and down the street and we are talking it to the beach it a couple of weeks. The compression was around 124 cold and a little under 120 when warmed up. I think it should get a rebuild but I want to take it out a couple times first since it’s my only running toy. Out next project is a 1977 that we are doing a frame up restoration on. It’s already stripped, frame is mostly sandblasted, and it will need some minor welding. The hope it by next summer have 2-3 to take to the beach. Thanks for the help!



Save ALL the oil stuff and parts from the carb before the carb kit, most them carb kits are low quality junk.


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