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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 2:54 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or just purchased one.
1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet at least the minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above or check out the thread at the bottom of this list.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure and vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. Both my machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel and pump vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long.
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
14) Lots of good info here:
viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 11:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Kevin8520 wrote:
Leak down tester. Not lesbian tester. Stupid phone lol


Sign me up :-)


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 6:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2016 12:48 am
Posts: 16
I did a compression test on the Engine. The compression is 110 PSI. I know the manual says it should be 130 PSI. Is this too low and would this cause my hard start / no start issue? A leakdown test is next but that will take me a few days to do as I need to fab up some components or take it to a shop to test.

If this compression is ok, should I buy a carb rebuild kit as my next step? Maybe the slow jet is toast.

Thank you!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 7:16 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Kevin8520 wrote:
I did a compression test on the Engine. The compression is 110 PSI. I know the manual says it should be 130 PSI. Is this too low and would this cause my hard start / no start issue? A leakdown test is next but that will take me a few days to do as I need to fab up some components or take it to a shop to test.

If this compression is ok, should I buy a carb rebuild kit as my next step? Maybe the slow jet is toast.

Thank you!


The 110 is a bit low which is why it's hard to start with the filter on, but it should still run.
Leak down test is next and post results.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 11:18 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 05, 2015 4:37 pm
Posts: 81
Location: Philadelphia, PA
You have to look at it this way: Your carb setup was working, it has only a few moving parts that can wear. The Engine has a lot of moving parts that naturally wear over time. It's far more likely that your hard start is the first symptom of one of those parts nearing the end of its life. The low compression could be from the problem, or a symptom of another problem. The leak down test should help you pin point it futher. Focus on that. I know it is hard, but you will save yourself in the long run by doing this in order. If you change too much, you will be needlessly changing things that are ok for your set up, and it may not work properly when you fix the real problem.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 11:23 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2016 12:48 am
Posts: 16
Agreed with both of you. I'd like to do the leakdown test with the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) removed. Is there a removal guide or any tips?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2016 12:02 am 
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Joined: Tue May 05, 2015 4:37 pm
Posts: 81
Location: Philadelphia, PA
I'd take out the seat, take off exhaust, remove the drive belt covers, take off the recoil start (and ground wire), loosen up the carb, disconnect the spark plug wire, and then take out the 2 Engine bolts. You need to take off the fuel pump impulse tube, and pull the Engine out, lifting it up and twisting it to move the drive clutch around the belt. I'd then plug the carb boot, plug the exhaust port, and position the cylinder for the test. I think I used the impulse port to add pressure, your set up may be different, so you may plug that and use a different place to add air/vac. Use a hand pump of some sort, your not looking to add a lot of pressure here. If doing pressure first, I like to have a bottle of soapy water handy, so that if I have leaks, I can spray them to see them. (I normally start with the plugs I added to make sure they are sealed, then the lower seals, the head/cylinder seals, ect...). You add a bit of pressure, make note of it, and give it some time to see if you have leaks.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2016 12:12 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2016 12:48 am
Posts: 16
Perfect. Thank you for the pointers!


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