I don't know if this will help you out but here is a parts book with numbers (see pdf below).

You could also try partzilla.com

Edit: There are many places to get seals and bearings.
Eg: you could go to your local machine shop, NAPA, any industrial supplier, motion industries, Honda ??
Here is a good outfit and it is American: https://www.colonialseal.com/search.php ... rch&page=1
Here is another one but I think they are fukheads: https://www.servicehonda.com/error/notf ... rts/lookup
It will come up "page not found" but just click on "factory parts" in the header.

Your bearings are just the standard 6306. Very common and you should be able to get them anywhere. If you accidentally get 6306 2RS (this means they got seals) then just remove the seals with a pick.

Here are your seals:
https://www.colonialseal.com/search.php ... _https=yes
https://www.colonialseal.com/search.php ... _https=yes

That's according to my manual.

Speaking of a manual ------- do you have one ??

thanks for the replys everyone.

I do have a manual I found online and thanks for the parts list with part numbers, I'm going to print that off and add it to my manual.

The links for the oil seals don't link to a specific seal. I searched based on the size listed in the parts list you just gave me and there are two listed for the 25mm they are both AS but one is NBR and one is VITON;
AS 25x55x10 NBR - OIL SEAL this one is about $4
AS 25x55x10 VITON - OIL SEAL this one is about $32

The 30mm seal had mulitple styles listed but I found the two that match the 25mm ones.
AS 30x55x10 NBR - OIL SEAL about $4
AS 30x55x10 VITON - OIL SEAL about $32

Was the factory seal a NBR or VITON?

Looks like I just need to order everything and do it. I'm going to try and pull the Engine out this weekend and I'll order parts on Monday and hopefully have it ready to assemble by the following weekend. I will post an update on my progress

Thanks again

Have you even tried a new plug and the right mixture yet?

IMO buying OEM takes the guess work out of it. You pay more, but you know it's the right part, size, and composition. I only buy aftermarket when OEM is not available.

Yes I see that my links do not go to a specific seal. I guess my copy and paste thing don't work that way.

Factory seal is NBR, AS style.
Viton is used in high temp applications like air compressor outlet or things like that and are used where temps can get to 200'C. Viton seals are a different color than NBR. They are brown or a rust color. You don't need that kind of seal for an oddy. Also they are much more expensive.

The style of seal like "AS" can be important. I believe there is a page that shows you the different styles. An example would be the seal on a FL350 transmission. It has a seal that has a steel outer face. The wheel carriers for example are just all rubber seal with steel sleeve underneath. Like I said many different styles but all will work.

Edit: In the top left of that Colonial Seal Company page you can click on "Oil Seal Styles".
It will give you a description of each one.
AS Style
Rubber covered, double lip seal with a spring.
BS Style
Double lip, metal case with a spring.
CS Style
Double lip, double metal cased with a spring.

Yes I tried new plug and another tank of fresh gas this time mixed 32:1 with Bel Ray MC1. It runs and drives and coasts without shutting off but just wont stay running in the idle circuit. It does fail the leak test and I can see some bubbles at the crank seal.

From what I read, if it can't pass a leak test it wont run right or idle right and could be hard to start.

Today i bought;
Honda crank seals, bolts and dowels from partzilla
Honda crank bearings from ebay
Flywheel puller
Vesrah gasket kit

I think the only other thing I might need will be piston rings. I need to pull it apart and measure the bore and see if its standard or oversized before buying rings.

Might want to see what piston too. IIRC different brands use different style rings.

I agree.
If you have an original piston it may have the tapered style rings and you can't get these anymore unless you find a set online, which I doubt you will find.

Oddatv has parts for the fl250 but I don't see any rings there.
https://oddatv.com/
Bikebandit shows that they have a set of .50 over OEM rings for $33. The other ones show unavailable to ship, so that means to me that they don't got em.
https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/19 ... 17#sch5428
I would phone to confirm they got the parts you want before you invest any money. But that's just me. A lot of this stuff is real old parts so you gota do homework now.

I got the Engine out and tomorrow im stopping at a local company that makes and sells the puller to remove the converter. All the parts should be here tomorrow so i hope to take it apart tomorrow night. If everything goes good ill clean and assemble it on saturday.

Ill snap some pics and post them after i get it apart.

Engine is apart, looks ok on the inside. Found were it was leaking after seperating the case.

Everything cleaned up, measured and ready to assemble. Piston and sleeve look and measure out good.

Any tips on assembly?

All together, passed leak test. One of the Engine mounts is ripped so im going to order that before i install the Engine.


Do I need to do any kind of break in if the top end didnt change?

Thanks

I would take it easy for a full tank of gas at least. No full throttle. You are trying to break in new rings.
To be honest that's about all I do, but I am not afraid to rebuild engines.

I have a different way of thinking when it comes to breaking in a top end. I go full throttle and accelerate almost all the way to redline, but I never maintain the high rpm. Cylinder pressure helps seat new rings.

Here is a thread done by hoser in 2007 on Engine break in procedure:
viewtopic.php?f=89&t=3114&hilit=break+in+Engine+new+procedure

So obviously everyone seems to do it differently.

My son and I put the Engine back in today. He got in and i pull the pull start 3 times and it fired right up and idled! It runs and idles great, he was so excited.

Thanks for all the help.

I changed all of the fuel lines when i first got it with clear 1/4" fuel line from the auto parts store. Is there better quality clear fuel line out there? The 1/4" line seems a little loose on the nipples put the clamps hold it just fine, is it a metric size?

Im currently running MC1 and 93 octane mixed at 32:1. Is this over kill, just right or not enough. Any recommendations?

Thanks

Considering I was the one saying ''too much oil'' this will be slightly ironic. Maybe run a little extra oil during break in..lol 25/1 Better to foul a plug rather then cook a new set of rings. Once it's broke in, back to 32/1

I would just run what you normally do. If you change up it throws the jetting off. Besides you want the rings to rub and wear in --------- so to speak.

Thanks everyone

Just to clear this up, I did not change the rings, I could not find stock bore rings. I measured everything and everything was within spec per the manual. The cylinder looks perfect, no scoring or wear, the piston and rings looked great. If this is all stock then this was ridden easy or has low hours on it. Judging from the rest of the condition that it is in I would say ridden easy and low hours. It was very well taken care of.

That's a happy kid right there..lol