Well that sucks....

Can anyone confirm this is what I'll need to take rotor off? Will Engine have to be dropped to do this?

YES and PROBABLY.

Or you can make your own puller out of a piece of flat bar and a welded nut.

The most frustrating thing is that you may pull an Engine apart and then that's turns out to not be the problem. That's why you always do the easy shyte first. Run a separate ground wire to the Engine frame and try again. Check everything easy first.

You can pull the flywheel without pulling the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). It isn't as easy as having it on the bench but I have done it.

I will double check my grounds. Hope that's the issue.

If not, is the puller tool the same for the '78 FL250 as it is for my '83? Only asking cause the pic posted on here says '78.

Also going to rebuild my pump and do leak down test.

Just a little tid bit of info on determining what year your machine is:

FL250 A (77) FL MODELS, JPN, VIN# FL250-1000001 TO FL250-1011921
FL250 A (78) FL MODELS, JPN, VIN# FL250-1100001 TO FL250-1112345
FL250 A (79) FL MODELS, JPN, VIN# FL250-2000001 TO FL250-2012620
FL250 A (80) FL MODELS, JPN, VIN# TB04-2000001 TO TB04-2006315
FL250 A (81) FL MODELS, JPN, VIN# JH3TB040-BC400001 TO JH3TB040-BC406324
FL250 A (82) FL MODELS, JPN, VIN# JH3TB040-CC500001 TO JH3TB040-CC514700
FL250 A (83) FL MODELS, JPN, VIN# JH3TB040-DC600001 TO JH3TB040-DC617555
FL250 A (84) FL MODELS, JPN, VIN# JH3TB040-EC700051 TO JH3TB040-EC703225
FL350R A (85) FL MODELS, JPN, VIN# JH3TE020-FC100015
FL400R A (89) FL MODELS, JPN, VIN# JH3TE160-KK000044 TO JH3TE160-KK004102
FL400R A (90) FL MODELS, JPN, VIN# JH3TE160-LK100001



Most likely the puller will be the same.

Mine is an 83...

Will post results once I get chance to rebuild pump and do leak down test.

I see pic of KEY in manual. Any info or real pics of what I'll be looking at and what its SUPPOSED to look like?

It will look like this (see pics below).
Sorry I didn't have my glasses on when I took that pic but you get the idea.
If that key looks big in the pic, it's because that one is big LOL -- it's the kind we use at work.
If there is any damage to the key it's toast. Post a pic here when you get it out. We'll let ya know if you are not sure.

Edit: It's called a woodruff key. There is a code you can use if you need to order a new one but I don't remember it and it has been a long time since I have been in millwright school LOL.

The other thing you should check before you take it apart is the gap between the pulse coil and the flywheel (rotor they call it there in the pic). I am not sure what the gap should be though but my guess would be about .020" - .030". I am not even sure if you can get at it in the FL250 as I don't own one of those machines, so I don't really know the set up first hand. My guess is that it is a copy of the FL350 and you can get at those easily.

I just read a great post on checking the electrical on the stator, coil and pickup coil.
It was posted by zeroclient in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18349

There are 3 coils on that stator. Only 2 of them are meant for starting and running the Engine. The 3rd is there for lights and charging a battery if you have E-Start.

Pre-step - REMOVE YOUR SPARK PLUG to make these tests much easier

1. The trigger coil is common to fail. Lets check it.
a. Get your Digital Volt Meter out and set it to OHMs.
b. Put the leads of the DVM across the (G)reen and (BL/Y) (Blue/Yellow strip) and take a reading. It should measure between 100~400 Ohms.
c. Next, set your DVM to AC voltage keeping the leads on the same wires as b.
d. Either yank the pull start or turn the Engine over by the starter motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).
e. You should see the DVM 'blip' up to about 0.4 volts AC.
Final - If it doesn't move, IE stays at ZERO volts, ZERO ohms, or open, then your small trigger coil is bad.

2. The charge coil is used to run and charge the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) (Capacitor Discharge Ignition). Its responsible for creating the voltage in order for the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) to send a signal to the coil which then creates spark across the spark plug.
a. With your DVM, place the BLACK lead securely to ground. Anywhere on the Engine would be best - Metal surface.
b. Attach the RED lead of your DVM to (B/R) which is Black with a Red Stripe.
c. Set the DVM to AC voltage
d. Either yank the pull start or crank the starter
e. You should see the DVM blip anywhere from maybe 5 to 50 Volts. Thought it may be tough to see this on the DVM, just remember it must blip to something much higher than 0 volts to test good.

Note: If you have a DVM with a peak-hold function then you'll get more accurate peak hold AV voltage readings from the above.

Finally. Lets test your ignition coil near the spark plug. Resistance using OHM settings on your DVM - the coil should measure about 5k-10k going from spade terminal to high voltage lead at the plug. Any more and there is a problem. The coil should also measure close to 0 ohms from one terminal to the other terminal. If it measures open then it might be bad.

Finally going to get some testing done tonight and see what I need.

Any tips on breaking bad on tires? They are kind of dry rotted, but came with new inner tubes so I need to put those in as well, but couldn't break the bead on first (weak) attempt.

Also, front hub is 3 bolt and rear is 4 bolt...is that stock set up for 83?

1 more question before I take this apart...

This is a pic from oddatv website...my question is I do have that ring terminal on green wire unhooked as I wasn't sure what it was...help on that?...also, seems like I had same wire coming from opposite side of harness also with a ring...disconnected...

Come on man!!!!! GROUND - NEUTRAL -EARTH - NEGATIVE - Those electrons have to have a path to flow. No ground no flow.

See Diagram from FL250 Manual below.

Did I mention the ground - Ya like 10 days ago.

Come on Man !!!!! Lets get this thing running.

You did...and I am checking them today!
Also rebuilding pump...and trying again.

Tomorrow will be the day...

It fired up!!!

Ground the 2 ring terminals, put gas in carb manually, she fired up and idled pretty well after several years.

I didn't do compression check...
Exhaust has a pretty bad leak at block connection...
Fuel pump is not operating...link for rebuilding it maybe? I have manual downloaded, but thought I would ask.

So a couple of questions...
Which way does choke operate?...lever horizontal =choke on?
I didn't rebuild carb but have kit...I don't feel too comfortable doing that...should I try to run it like that?

Also, is it safe to run inter tubes in the tires? Are the split rim o-ring seals available anywhere?

Thank you guys for all the help so far....ready to drive this thing!

Choke on is when you push the lever to an angle. Straight up is non-choked.


You can try to run it without rebuilding the carb, might get lucky.

Fuel pump rebuild is as simple as putting it back together in the same order that it came apart.

Thank you for choke info...
Going to try and rebuild pump this evening...
Found wheel o-rings from ODD ATV...

Any tips on exhaust gasket that isn't available?

Pump is rebuilt....not so sure it was problem. It was pretty clean in there. Will reinstall tomorrow and see if it does its job.

Question about trans. lube replacement....is everyone just ripping the buggy on its side to get out what you can? Same with checking for fuel in crank case?

You can use a transfer pump through the fill hole to suck out most of the oil in the tranny.

I bet it was the problem, assuming your fuel lines are new/correct.

The lines to my transfer pump wouldn't snake it's way down transfer case...might try brake bleed pump.

Fuel lines new correct from ODDATV...hope that was it.

I put small fuel line on the end of my transfer pump so it gives it enough flex to fit down there.


I'm sure they were correct from ODDATV but I mostly meant routing meaning correct lines where they're supposed to go.

Routed them as diagram shows.

So....pump was rebuilt, getting gas!!
Except gas stopped at 3way...then leaked a little at connection to gas tank....bypassed the 3way to see if pump was working and it is.

It didn't start...now no spark. Did the testing from great write up...seems new coil/spark plug wire is bad.
Do these things fail that often? Is there a more reliable option than the NGK?

Bought new tires, had to cut one of the rear tires off...literally. Rim was in rough shape and going to primer/zinc spray them before paint.

These things are frustrating...