New owner to atv of any sort. I have an 83 Odyssey with electric start I got from a friend. Said it ran when parked. My boys and I tore it apart, restored about 90% of it. Assembled it, but no start. We bought a new coil, but not the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) box. There is power to the black wire going to coil when cranking. No fuel in any of the lines. Tank was properly cleaned, tank reservoir switch was cleaned, fuel pump cleaned, check valves cleaned and tested....but no fuel getting pumped into carb. Before I tested spark, we put fuel into carb but no start. Going to rebuild pump, but had a question in regards to spark. Any help? New coil, new plug, new wire...

Is the Engine grounded with a grounding strap?

As far as fuel is the pulse line secure on both ends?

Please post some pictures of your machine. Would love to see it and we can tell a lot from photos.

Don't get caught up in the mysterious black box. Keep it simple. Not very often a CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) goes bad.

Keep in mind this is old school 2 cycle. The oil is in the fuel. Do not use starting fluid and if you prime it make sure you use premix.

Let's start there, I bet you will get this machine running.

Welcome sort of new guy.

1) What rmesser said.
2) In my opinion just fkn throw the old fuel pump away and buy a one from Polaris #3085275.
3) Make sure all ground wires have a clean connection (no paint under it). You might have to trace your power starting at battery and working all the way to the coil. Highly unlikely it's the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition).
4) Do you have a manual ?? You can get a free pdf download from here: https://oddatv.com/wp-content/uploads/2 ... Manual.pdf It takes a minute to load sometimes. By the way you can get parts from oddatv.
5) This is a two stroke so you MUST pressure test that Engine to verify you got no air leaks.

I am aware of the premix...20:1 with 2.5 gal. fresh gas.
Checked power and while cranking it shows voltage all the way to coil but no spark.
Grounds are sanded down and new cables used.

How would I do an air leak test on Engine?
Is OEM pump easy to rebuild, already have kit, or should we just get the Polaris pump?

WOW nice rebuild. The black cage looks really nice. Might do that to one of mine.


Air leak tests involve blocking off the intake and exhaust with a homemade plate for intake and a hole plug for the exhaust. You pressurize the Engine with a few psi and it should hold that pressure. If it does not then you can use soapy water in a spray bottle to look for leaks.

If you already own a fuel pump kit then yes, rebuild it. It will be easy as long as the fuel pump is in the correct order, MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THE ORDER CORRECT when assembling/disassembling for rebuild.

1) Since you already have a rebuild kit for the pump then go ahead and rebuild. There is a thread on this site about it and from what I read it can be a bit touchy. I don't remember thread but will post it here if I find it. I don't even screw around, just buy a new pump. I know for a fact that the Polaris pump works well but you have to make a new bracket to mount it. Easy to do.
2) 20/1 oil mix is wrong. That 20/1 was for the oils of the late 70's and early 80's. Todays oil is not the same as yesteryears oil. It should be about 35/1.
3) If you got juice to the coil but no spark then the coil is toast or the sparkplug cap is not transferring the juice to the sparkplug. This can happen if the sparkplug cap is corroded where it screws onto the high tension lead. You can unscrew it and cut back about 1/4" of the lead and then screw it back on. If that don't work then replace coil. The cap could be broken inside too, as that is what happened to me two weeks ago. You can buy a new cap at lawnmower shop for a couple of bucks.
4) I see a gianormous light on that machine. The FL250 has a pathetic amount of available juice when running. I suggest LED.

Edit: Nice job on that rebuild. Looks nice. I like the black.

Here is a pressure testing rig -- pdf below.

DO NOT PUT OVER 10 PSI MAX IN YOUR Engine.
YOU WILL BLOW OUT YOUR SEALS.

You want your Engine to hold pressure for 10 minutes at least with "NO" air loss.
I usually want my engines to hold most of the air for half hour. If it don't I know a rebuild is gona happen soon. Sometimes I will just run it if it fails the test but you must be prepared for the deadly results. Your Engine will lean out and you melt a piston. It all depends on the octane of the fuel you run and how bad the leak was.

Some comments on the winderosa kit: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15156&hilit=winderosa

Something does not look right to me on the way the fuel lines are plumbed.

Do you have a 3 way Tee?

Could you please post more pictures of the fuel lines including the pulse line.

Hold the camera the other way so the pictures are not rotated.

I have rebuilt my fl250 fuel pump using Honda rebuild kit. Make sure you follow the manual, don't assume the existing layers are in the correct sequence.

Also the oil to fuel ratio of 20 parts fuel to 1 part oil is as old as the FL250's we ride.

The oils used back in the early 80s have improved over the years. 20:1 is to much oil for todays oils.

I run 32:1 of golden spectro premix. Do not use the 2 cycle oils from walmart, buy a good quality 2 cycle oil.

So 32:1 is 4 oz. of oil for each gallon of fuel (128 oz.). Your 2.5 gallons of fuel mentioned above, would require 10 oz. of premix 2 cycle oil.

I have heard of guys running 50:1, but that's not for me.

I also run premium fuel.

Are you sure you have a ground strap from the Engine block to the frame?

Perhaps I just do not see it in the pictures.

All hoses are new and clamps including the pulse tube which I assume is the tube at the crank case.

Maybe I wasn't clear but the coil and plug wire are new.

As far as lighting, those were the stock assemblies and had not planned on reusing them. Rear light already replaced with LED unit. Looking for headlight that fits OEM housing.

After reading leak down procedure...I am confident on doing it, but where would I get mountable plate for exhaust block off? The pump set up has to be made piece by piece?

Couple questions...to drain trans. case fluid - tip machine on side to empty?? To make sure no fuel is in crank, tip machine on end??

I put new ground cables how they were. None are to Engine block. Small one goes from frame to pull start case bolt. Battery cable one goes to bolt holding rear light assembly to fuel tank cage.

I do have the 3 way tee installed the way manual shows. I will take a few better pics today of fuel line routing.

I put premium fuel in it...will add 2 stroke oil to up the ratio. I used yamalube from local cycleshop.

Sound like you have the ground in place. You could confirm by checking continuity between the negative battery post and the block.

If you remove the pulse line from the pump and turn the Engine over do you feel a pulse? Ensure the upper is not dry, needs to be properly lubricated.

I feel the best way is to split the gearbox, I know you already have it installed, but if you split it you can inspect the chain for excess wear. If the chain breaks there is not enough clearance between the gears and case and the chain will wedge and crack the case.

I will check pulse tube while disconnected.

What is the 'upper' that needs to be lubricated?

In reference to splitting the gear box...what would I be doing that for? Checking for what? Is the gear box the part where pull draw string goes into? I'm not too familiar with this set up.

So any advice on what to check for no spark issue? Has new coil, new plug, new wire and power to black wire from CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition).

Does someone have pic of 3 way tee on a running machine to make sure I have mine on correctly?

I am busy at the moment but I can get you the info you want in a few hours.
I see you have lots of questions there.

Fuel "T"

You make your own.
I use a piece of aluminum plate and some rubber inner tube. Then just use exhaust bolts to hold it on.
You can also use any kind of sheet metal or even a thick piece of plastic. All you want to do is block it off and make sure it don't leak air when doing test. That's why I use inner tube as a seal.
Use a piece of plywood and rubber seal.

If you got juice to coil but it is not sparking then I would say you have a tigger issue.
The pickup coil is not triggering the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition). Is the key on your flywheel sheared ??

Did it run before the rebuild?

I have been assuming it did.

I believe that picture CO posted is for a FL350. CO is a big FL350 guy. Same idea as the fl250.

FL250 looks like this.

First off...its pretty amazing how nice and quick responses have been. I do appreciate it!
The 3 way tee is installed correctly.

I was told it ran when parked, but I can't be 100% certain.
Any info on how to check flywheel, key being mentioned? Not sure where or how to check. Sounds like Engine cradle has to come down again??...ugh...

I will do as suggested for leak down test. Thank you.

You may need a puller to get the rotor off.

I believe this puller will work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flywheel-Magne ... :rk:3:pf:0