So I finally was able to finish my Engine rebuild.
I did a compression test and everything looks good.
Today I tried to fire her and I'm having issues.
When I give it a few pulls it BACKFIRES! I pull again and she will start idle a little then dies. If I pull the throttle the Engine dies?

Any suggestions?

A good amount of fuel is coming out of the lower hose.

float level ?

Ignition key is good so the timing is correct?

Why did you rebuild, what all was done?

Adjusted the float now it's just a dribble. Looks like more air than fuel now.

Can I over adjust the float and starve the carb of fuel?

Hoser,

You did my cylinder head and got the piston. I did the cr conversion. Got a mossberg reeds and foam air filter. One of the members reemed the ignition for me for proper timing. How can I test to see if it's correct?

Can I over adjust the float and starve the carb of fuel? I don't think so, but the TEE may be in the wrong way, the leg with the least resistance to air goes to the carby,

Fix the carb problem first.

To check the timing see the service manual you using a timing light..

I don't have a T valve. The fuel line goes straight to the carb.

I finally got the Engine to idle. I had to turn one of the screws all the way in just so the cylinder in the carb has the proper gap.

I just readjusted the float and heading out to fire her up again. Hopefully the fuel will stop running out!

mate you need a tee or it will just flood, you could try turning the tap off or nearly off at the tank but this will muck you around because if you get it running ok at idle you won't get enough fuel at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). Not sure if you can use a normal fuel line tee and run the straight through legs from fuel pump to carb and the other leg to fuel tank

Worse comes to worse install a regular TEE in line then install something to slightly restrict fuel flow back to the gas tank this will relieve some of the pressure going to the carb, the factory carb was not setup to run without the TEE setup so expect lots of problems trying to run it without one.

Not a stock carb. Got it from Oddysalv.
Not much stock left. Everything has been upgraded for the CR conversion

just out of interest what carb are you using now?

When you say a "regular T valve" is the something I can get at any auto store or am I ordering another part for the money pit!

In my other post I wrote about how I adjusted the float again. Well I think I adjusted it to the point of no fuel getting to the bowl. Lol

Regular TEE is just a plastic TEE you can get at the auto parts store nothing inside of it.

Ok I installed the T valve. I gave a few pulls to get the fuel in the lines. I gave it a few good pulls and it back fired. I pulled a few more time and it started but my idle was low and had to stay on the throttle. It eventually flooded out after about 30 seconds.

I let it sit a few minutes and tried pulling it again. I got it to start but when it did my pull cord broke(for the second time)!

I am starting to feel like throwing in the towel!

my pull cord broke(for the second time)!
bugger..
mate check the C clip in the carb

Today I went ahead and tried to fix the pull starter myself.

I surprised myself and fixed it! It took a few times, trial and error.


Once again after a few pulls the Engine backfires. A few more pulls it starts and idles fine for about 45 seconds and then it dies from flooding.

When you say " C clamp" in the carb are you talking about the c clamp that is on the needle?

It should be on the 2nd notch correct?

Just went and pulled the needle and the c clamp was on the 3rd notch. I moved it up to the second notch and got her started.

I went for a spin and it seems that there is not much throttle response in lower end kinda bogs. If you open her up she is ready to roll!

I don't know if I should keep tweaking with the carb or now that I can get the Engine running check the timing???

Oh I snapped a few pics of the plug:

How are the Engine mounts I have seen many FL250's that shake so bad because of bad mounts that they upset the carb at idle.

If the idle is not set right they also shake more than they should sometimes too low causes excessive shaking sometimes too fast idle does.

Have you tried to adjust the air screw?

Brand new mounts but it shakes!!

I have played with both screws. The one screw that adjusts the height of the slide is screwed all the way in. It's the only way I can get the sliver of gap you need.

I do need to play with the other screw. I've been told 1 1/2 screws out to start.

SHE'S ALIVE!

So after a quick PM to hottrod, he drilled out my stator. He told me to readjust it since it backfiring I had it too far forward. I pulled everything apart and made the adjustments. I made a few tweeks to the fuel lines and since Hoser was talking about shacking the carb too much I grinded away some of the frame by the carb. Since I am running a reed cage space is very tight!

After giving several pulls to get fuel into the lines I choked the carb and she fired up. I adjusted the throttle cable and got a good idle.

After a minute of idling I went for a spin and she was very sluggish so I tightened the air screw and there was a little improvement so I turned it more. In total it was about a 1/2 turn clockwise.

Since these are runs on a new motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) I'm only riding for about 5 minutes and I haven't opened her up yet.

One issue I have not been able to solve myself is my choke will not stay on. I push the lever down and it slides right back down. Is there a rubber gromit in the carb? I thought that it was the rubber boot but I think that it is there just for protection.

You have the stock 250 carb?

Going by memory I thought their was something mechanical external to the choke that held the choke in position like the arm of the lever fell into a notch or something?