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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:37 pm 
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Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
go oddy wrote:
"what are these ..why is there carbon built up ?"
they are rave valves... need regular service and they should have heat shields mounted to protect them from the header heat


Ok so I am missing them I guess. Does the amount of carbon lead 1 to think they need servicing? Are they available to replace?
STARTER IS UNDER the Engine huh, thanks much! I did not have enough time to look! :-)


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:46 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:14 pm
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Location: Ma
Mudbogger wrote:
go oddy wrote:
"what are these ..why is there carbon built up ?"
they are rave valves... need regular service and they should have heat shields mounted to protect them from the header heat


Ok so I am missing them I guess. Does the amount of carbon lead 1 to think they need servicing? Are they available to replace?
STARTER IS UNDER the Engine huh, thanks much! I did not have enough time to look! :-)


ill try to post pics of my 583
yes they need to be looked at... you can purchase the rebuild kit cheap from dealer or online...
it just consists of a bunch of o rings and a paper gasket or two.. I forget the exact details...
running shat oil can gum up the rave system pretty good... everything else you just clean up.. there are a bunch of how to vids on the interweb
the shield is just a very thin sheet that uses the header holes to mount it... you could make one in minutes...


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:50 pm 
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pic of the heat shield


Attachments:
583 complete2.jpg
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583 complete.jpg
583 complete.jpg [ 64 KiB | Viewed 773 times ]
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:54 pm 
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Location: Ma
starter
1st pic you can see it beyond the pull start cover
2nd pic in relation to the cover and the coolant hose front of the Engine...


Attachments:
583starter1.jpg
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583starter.jpg
583starter.jpg [ 55.2 KiB | Viewed 771 times ]
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:55 pm 
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Location: New Jersey
Thanks so much go oddy!
I will look for mine, I hope it is there, I am sure it is!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:03 pm 
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Location: Ma
Mudbogger wrote:
Thanks so much go oddy!
I will look for mine, I hope it is there, I am sure it is!


you are welcome sir...
I would sync the carbs and I run the 450r Honda atv uni filters for the 583 they are two stage type and have a nice clamping edge and cage... the newer ones i use as the first series for the 450r were smaller the 2nd series were bigger and flow more (at least in my humble trials).. not sure if you are going to stay stock or... but I also used the race logic porting templates for my Engine and they worked for me... very nice Engine you can break the top end down and inspect anytime as it is all rubber up top... only the cyl head to lower end uses the paper seal...
pretty bullet proof Engine.... I beat the snot out of mine and it just keeps on ...


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:06 pm 
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Location: near NJ rider
Looks like the header wrap is probably rusting the pipe.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 10:20 pm 
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Location: New Jersey
bullnerd wrote:
Looks like the header wrap is probably rusting the pipe.

I was thinking the same exact thing, I will have to address it as well.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 10:21 pm 
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Location: New Jersey
go oddy wrote:
Mudbogger wrote:
Thanks so much go oddy!
I will look for mine, I hope it is there, I am sure it is!


you are welcome sir...
I would sync the carbs and I run the 450r Honda atv uni filters for the 583 they are two stage type and have a nice clamping edge and cage... the newer ones i use as the first series for the 450r were smaller the 2nd series were bigger and flow more (at least in my humble trials).. not sure if you are going to stay stock or... but I also used the race logic porting templates for my Engine and they worked for me... very nice Engine you can break the top end down and inspect anytime as it is all rubber up top... only the cyl head to lower end uses the paper seal...
pretty bullet proof Engine.... I beat the snot out of mine and it just keeps on ...


You have a link for the filters by chance? Ebay? the rave service kits are available online too go oddy?


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 8:56 pm 
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uni that i own two of

http://www.ebay.com/itm/06-2011-Honda-T ... bd&vxp=mtr



for the 2006 and up 450 I believe


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 9:00 pm 
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Location: Ma
rave valve kit



http://www.mfgsupply.com/719108.html


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 9:01 pm 
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Location: Ma
whole kit and ....


http://www.mfgsupply.com/711178c.html


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 8:11 pm 
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Location: New Jersey
Thank you sir! I am hoping to at least get this thing to the powerwasher tomorrow, just got in from a triple shift. The rubber gaskets are pretty cool, not used to having that.
I want to check to make sure of the Engine year but it seems they are are the same for 92-96 what is the differences in the 96+ years? Where is the serial # located on these?


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 9:54 pm 
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Location: New Jersey
Go Oddy what size rims and tires do you run please and with what clutch?
I know I have the wrong size rims and tires, I have researched it briefly and it seems stock is a higher thinner rim.I am thinking a set of Beadlocks :-)


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 12:56 pm 
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Location: Ma
Mudbogger wrote:
Go Oddy what size rims and tires do you run please and with what clutch?
I know I have the wrong size rims and tires, I have researched it briefly and it seems stock is a higher thinner rim.I am thinking a set of Beadlocks :-)


I run the stock clutch that came on the 583 from the sled... I had a 580 Engine from a grand touring sled in my bug and then I picked up the 583 Engine (this gave me rave valves) and swapped jugs made a new exhaust header and pipe... I had the 580 clutch TRA unit on the 583 initially and that clutch had me pulling 7900 rpm approx and I then switched to the TRA from the donor 583 block that came from a formula z sled .. it is clearly setup much differently as far as I can tell thus far...pulls more revs up on the top end... couldn't quote an rpm .... guess maybe 8400...i need to take her out and make some notes... for my records and to pass on to others...
I run ten inch rims with 22 inch tires... used bigger tires but that chewed up my slipper clutch...

I use beadlocks that I picked up from Bones at OMF.... locks outside with reinforcement ring on the inner lip...
I also wanted to mention that with the 580 series engines you can change the Engine power traits so much by the carb choice... I had 38 vm round on it.. tried some bigger units I think they were 44mm (not for me)
the bigger carbs took my low end away and I do 99.999% of riding on trails ... I now have 38TM flat slides
http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/Mik ... lick=35177

I think it made a world of difference.. It idles great pull very strong from a dig and I don't, thus far, wish for more on top....
I hope this is helpful... but I also want to be certain that you know I do not own a Drakart.. this is my setup for my Pilot... It might or might not matter... I don't know the final drive ratio on the trans in the Drakart so wheel, tire and clutching setup may not be applicable... but the engines I am familiar with...
regards
g.o.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 3:49 pm 
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Location: New Jersey
Thanks for the great information sir!
It snowed last night here, just got in from snowplowing and it is way too cold to even think about power washing the Drak, will have to start off with a cleaned Engine compartment and Engine for the CSI.
I ordered the complete set of gaskets thanks! Was hoping to have the rear bearings and seals here so when I get to them I can complete the repairs that same day but I'll have to wait to see exactly what is or was there I guess. Is there online a location that lists the part numbers for the Drakarts by chance?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 8:48 pm 
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Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
Rear wheel bearing ordered, Timken "set 35" 44 bucks without shipping from Summit racing.My local Autozone had to order it and it was 10 bucks more through them, special order stuff, lol, ok doki ordered it cheaper!
Need to order a battery as I do not have 1 currently in here. Is there anybody who can look at my pictures and let me know if my current battery box is stock OEM and also battery dimensions please?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 10:09 pm 
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Posts: 720
Hi mud, the fuel tank and battery box look standard to me. There should be a grey color fiberglass heat shield thing behind the seat too. The photos showing the trans leak also show the inner cv and it looks to be an Audi inner cv not the citroen type.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 6:35 pm 
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Location: New Jersey
oddozzie wrote:
Hi mud, the fuel tank and battery box look standard to me. There should be a grey color fiberglass heat shield thing behind the seat too. The photos showing the trans leak also show the inner cv and it looks to be an Audi inner cv not the citroen type.

Is that still available if I need parts for them? What should I look for in regards to issues with the Audi type? Are they inferior to the citrogen?
Thanks for letting me know on the tank and battery box. The shipper said they started it to get it into the trailer, but currently it has no battery and will not start.I have been plowing snow for 2 days so the project is still waiting to be started. I received the new rear bearing-rave valve rebuild kit,new harnesses,ordered a battery,and just need to get it to the powerwasher and then into the garage.
Thanks for the help!


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 1:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22077
Location: Chicago
Mudbogger wrote:
bullnerd wrote:
Looks like the header wrap is probably rusting the pipe.

I was thinking the same exact thing, I will have to address it as well.


Pipe wrap on ANY exhaust is just a route to a very short exhaust system life not really sure why people keep using it, guess because they sell it and people are stupid, when its not rusting the exhaust out its cooking the exhaust to death.

I have read where some racers use it to heat the pipe faster but they only run their engines for about a minute at a time so need to reach high pipe temps fast, OEM's don't use pipe wrap for a reason they use heat shields for a reason.

Shame people never think they just get out the credit cards and start buying installing stuff.

Guarantee that Engine has been eating dirt pull the intake and verify throw those K&N filters in the trash where they belong still cant believe people are dumb enough to use them in applications like this as if they are going to filter out all the shit that has been thrown at the filters in the pictures haha


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 2:46 pm 
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Location: New Jersey
What should be placed back onto these carbs Hoser? Do they make a air box for these engines?
Glad to see your back!
Is there any room for a Drakart section here on the board by chance? The information is good to have seeing as we have several owners that are members and I do not wish to join other sites!
Gooddy has mentioned the engines have rubber seals, taking off the intake I can see the grit and grime and re use the same seal?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 3:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Mudbogger wrote:
What should be placed back onto these carbs Hoser? Do they make a air box for these engines?
Glad to see your back!
Is there any room for a Drakart section here on the board by chance? The information is good to have seeing as we have several owners that are members and I do not wish to join other sites!
Gooddy has mentioned the engines have rubber seals, taking off the intake I can see the grit and grime and re use the same seal?



The rotary cover is sealed by a O ring that is reusable when you remove the cover you have to be careful not to remove the rotary valve with the cover or you will lose the timing so remove the rubber manifolds first then hold your finger on the disc pushing it in as you remove the outer cover, sometimes the disc valve will want to stick to the cover your removing because of the oil


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 3:23 pm 
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Location: New Jersey
hoser wrote:
Mudbogger wrote:
What should be placed back onto these carbs Hoser? Do they make a air box for these engines?
Glad to see your back!
Is there any room for a Drakart section here on the board by chance? The information is good to have seeing as we have several owners that are members and I do not wish to join other sites!
Gooddy has mentioned the engines have rubber seals, taking off the intake I can see the grit and grime and re use the same seal?



The rotary cover is sealed by a O ring that is reusable when you remove the cover you have to be careful not to remove the rotary valve with the cover or you will lose the timing so remove the rubber manifolds first then hold your finger on the disc pushing it in as you remove the outer cover, sometimes the disc valve will want to stick to the cover your removing because of the oil


Ok thanks, after removal of the cover how do I see into the Engine if the rotary valve is blocking my view. Forgive me here, I know some will think these questions are stupid but I have 0 time on these Drakarts and any type of snowmobile Engine.
Do you happen to have any pictures here Hoser on the above captioned rotary valve?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 7:47 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Here is mine with just the cover off see the spline shaft in the middle see the disc valve you can match mark the shaft and the disc then remove the disc when you reinstall make sure you match up your marks, you also don't want to flip the disc over because it will also advance or retard the timing slightly

Image

More pics that might help
http://www.pilotodyssey.com/440tuning.htm

More misalliances internal pics to confuse you
viewtopic.php?t=759


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 7:58 pm 
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Thanks, great to have a bit of information and a picture says a thousand words!.


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