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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 7:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22106
Location: Chicago
Engine is installed, balancer filled with Mobil 1 15-50 oil.

Drained trans oil, oil looked good.

Remove skid plate for repairs.

Gas tank installed.

Rear brake disc and caliper installed

New parking brake cable installed.


Gas tank didnt have the right washer on the drain and it had been leaking, it now has the right washer and don't LEAK. man did the former owner/s really molest this low hr Pilot, all STUPID LAZY bullshit !!!!!! You can tell at a glance the sealing washer is not right.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 7:56 pm 
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Posts: 22106
Location: Chicago
Here is the right one.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 7:57 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Here is the shit they had installed.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 7:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22106
Location: Chicago
Right one installed.

I can see how easy it would be to lose the factory one when you drain the tank but when you discover you lost it why not replace it with the CORRECT PART why SKILLBILLY it back together?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 8:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22106
Location: Chicago
I hoserized the driven clutch.

The driven is in great condition the grease needed changed the grease trapped between the seal lips was dry and had dirt mixed with it, I cleaned the seals and installed fresh grease then hoserized the spring and plastic bushing to provide smooth spring compression and rebound.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 8:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Back together and installed on Pilot.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 8:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Their was no real wear on the brake disc, indications of a low hour Pilot, the brake pads look new, the pad material looks thicker than OEM so I assume they are after market pads but they are the sintered metal type, their was NO wear on the caliper bracket but the pins it floats on were dry, I cleaned it up and greased the pins.

The skid plate has the usual dents I will pound them out clean it up then paint? or you going to powder coat it when you get home?

The old parking brake cable was locked up I got it worked free and tried to lube it up, I got it moving but the lube was bringing rust out with it so no doubt NOW is time to change the cable so I installed the NEW one you sent and adjusted seems to work really well now...

Whilst I am waiting on the radiator I will finish installing everything else in preparation for the radiator and carb when they get here I will also finish straightening the roll bar, remove and hoserize the rear suspensi., install the YODA longer arms up front...


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 8:19 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 12:06 pm
Posts: 1412
Location: San Diego
Nice!

I hope you're getting paid by the hour.........

It's those little parts like the drain washer that I like to order randomly when ordering other needed parts. Nice to have on hand when they're really needed and you can't wait for them to show up.

Of course that mentallity also explains how I wound up with close to 20k in FL250 parts over the years too.....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 8:30 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
hoser wrote:
Their was no real wear on the brake disc, indications of a low hour Pilot, the brake pads look new, the pad material looks thicker than OEM so I assume they are after market pads but they are the sintered metal type, their was NO wear on the caliper bracket but the pins it floats on were dry, I cleaned it up and greased the pins.

The skid plate has the usual dents I will pound them out clean it up then paint? or you going to powder coat it when you get home?



The old parking brake cable was locked up I got it worked free and tried to lube it up, I got it moving but the lube was bringing rust out with it so no doubt NOW is time to change the cable so I installed the NEW one you sent and adjusted seems to work really well now...

Glad I sent it-can you use the old 1 by chance for future projects?If so please do--

Whilst I am waiting on the radiator I will finish installing everything else in preparation for the radiator and carb when they get here I will also finish straightening the roll bar, remove and hoserize the rear suspensi., install the YODA longer arms up front...



Carb is on way-went out to you yesterday-I can order the fox airs for that kit and have them shipped to you if the stock shocks do not perform good-are you going to install the LT upper brackets as well in case we go that route?
Glad I sent you new cable-can you use the old 1 by chance for future projects?If so please do--
No powdercaot on this Pilot Hoser-black krylon is perfect for that skid IMO-


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 9:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22106
Location: Chicago
Mudbogger wrote:
hoser wrote:
Their was no real wear on the brake disc, indications of a low hour Pilot, the brake pads look new, the pad material looks thicker than OEM so I assume they are after market pads but they are the sintered metal type, their was NO wear on the caliper bracket but the pins it floats on were dry, I cleaned it up and greased the pins.

The skid plate has the usual dents I will pound them out clean it up then paint? or you going to powder coat it when you get home?



The old parking brake cable was locked up I got it worked free and tried to lube it up, I got it moving but the lube was bringing rust out with it so no doubt NOW is time to change the cable so I installed the NEW one you sent and adjusted seems to work really well now...

Glad I sent it-can you use the old 1 by chance for future projects?If so please do--

Whilst I am waiting on the radiator I will finish installing everything else in preparation for the radiator and carb when they get here I will also finish straightening the roll bar, remove and hoserize the rear suspensi., install the YODA longer arms up front...



Carb is on way-went out to you yesterday-I can order the fox airs for that kit and have them shipped to you if the stock shocks do not perform good-are you going to install the LT upper brackets as well in case we go that route?
Glad I sent you new cable-can you use the old 1 by chance for future projects?If so please do--
No powdercaot on this Pilot Hoser-black krylon is perfect for that skid IMO-



You can wait on the shox if you want to see how it feels with the stockers, you can install them at your place once its back also.

If this is going to be a daily driver on the east coast I would use use rattle can also, I usually have to remove my skid once a season to beat out the dents then I give it another coat of paint.

I am sure the carb will get here at about the right time I have plenty of other things to tinker on until then... My over haul kit for the Tahoe should be here by Friday so I will be working on it for a few days...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 8:51 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
Hoser-stock Honda clutch bolt on it's way-there by WED of next week.Carb should be there by now-THANKS AGAIN CAFERCR!!


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File comment: nice anc clean motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 5:13 pm 
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Location: East Peoria IL
ok!! - ok!! How did that egine get so clean? Is it painted or what?


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 6:13 pm 
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Posts: 22106
Location: Chicago
rmesser wrote:
ok!! - ok!! How did that egine get so clean? Is it painted or what?


Clean only last until the first ride :-)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 7:57 pm 
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Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
rmesser wrote:
ok!! - ok!! How did that egine get so clean? Is it painted or what?


Nope that's how I got them back from TRIPLE EEE -the top end was painted yes-


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 2:28 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22106
Location: Chicago
Time for a update. today I installed the YODA LT Front Travel kit viewtopic.php?t=3810 I should have done it weeks ago but I got side tracked a little by my Tahoe purchase, another project I really didnt need but the guy sold it so cheap I could not resist, it developed a oil leak and the Engine locked up when it ran out of oil, go figure... I intended to rebuild the Engine at my leisure over the winter but once the wife seen it she said "we can take this to Florida in December" so I had no choice but to pull the Engine, rebuild, reinstall, break in and make sure everything else was "ok" before December... viewtopic.php?t=4497

Their is really not alot to say you just follow YODA's instructions it installs pretty easily, I know Mudbogger was getting excited so I took some pics heh




BEFORE


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 2:28 pm 
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Location: Chicago
AFTER


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 2:30 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Whilst removing the old arms I found the left lower ball joint nut LOOSE see the gap under the nut..


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 2:32 pm 
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Location: Chicago
The ball joint shaft would spin while I was trying to remove the nut so I had to put some tension on the taper so it would hold and I could loosen the nut.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 2:37 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Once the nuts are OFF turn them over and screw them back on to protect the threads then take a BRASS punch and a hammer and give it a few whacks to break it loose from the taper, do the TOP first then the bottom.

don't BE A DUMBASS AND USE A TUNING FORK OR PICKLE FORK to remove the ball joints you ONLY use a tuning fork when your going to THROW away a ball joint and don't give a shit if it rips the shit out of the rubber boots, the pickle fork is used for example if your car or truck has a BAD tie rod end and your going to remove it and THROW the old one away and replace it with a NEW one..

IF you cant remove yours with a few well placed focused hit of the hammer contact me their are other NON DESTRUCTIVE ways to break it free...

You might need the C clamp to apply pressure when tightening the NEW ball joints up...


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 2:38 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Just need that radiator back so I can take it for a test spin...


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 2:39 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Dual inlet mod it will also have the dual prefilter mod...


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 2:43 pm 
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Location: Chicago
This is one of the home made lids made by one of the guys down under (forget nick) its pretty nice for home made, I would like to have seen it modified for performance its too bad he did not consult me before going to the time and trouble of making them up. viewtopic.php?t=2306 I modified this one to make it a little better than delivered.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 2:45 pm 
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Location: Chicago
See all the extra room their is between the air box lid and the tube frame, think of the volume he could have added then called it the "Big Gulp Air Box Mod" (TM hoser 2006)


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 10:16 am 
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Location: New Jersey
Any updates Hoser by chance?
Radiator get there? :shock: -test ride in order?
-::


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 10:26 am 
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Location: Chicago
Mudbogger wrote:
Any updates Hoser by chance?
Radiator get there? :shock: -test ride in order?
-::


Installed the radiator took it outside for some heat cycles, carb flooding bad so I have to go back through the carb again to see why.


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