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PROJECT TECATE T-3 SOLD
http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=6568
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Author:  mudbogger [ Sun Feb 14, 2010 10:36 am ]
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Got parts in for this,so I started on the bottom end yesterday.I lapped the case halfes, then washed them in soapy water and installed the crank seals and bearings in both halfes.Lapped the head, this took some time as it was not flat,I found using some water on the paper worked wonders to help the process.Heres some pictures.I will install the crank, and shfit drum, gear shafts, and the shifter into the right side today-heres some pictures.The side cases have had a bit of material worn off in areas from some MUTT using a "wiz wheel" air tool to take the gaskets off, so I might have to lapp these alittle more in areas to get them perfect.If you see something please let me know!!

The crank runout was at 0.01 so that's well within manufacturers specs( 0.02-0.10) and the side clearance as well spec's in under so it will be re-installed as well.I'll have the ring gap and piston to wall clearances posted here in a bit.I was wondering though-the parts are cold, should I take them inside and have them warm up a spell before checking the gaps/clearances?Will there be a difference it them?

Attachments:
File comment: head, this took some time to get the surfaces clean and true.
tecate motor pic 001.jpg
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File comment: new OEM bearings and seal installed, case lapped
tecate motor pic 002.jpg
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File comment: other side, same deal
tecate motor pic 003.jpg
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File comment: new EBC clutch pack
tecate motor pic 005.jpg
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File comment: box of goodies!!!!
tecate motor pic 006.jpg
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Author:  jim327 [ Sun Feb 14, 2010 10:48 am ]
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Mudbogger you can use wd40 when your wet sanding.it makes it alot easyer

Author:  mudbogger [ Sun Feb 14, 2010 11:03 am ]
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I have heard that from STONEMAN as well.I used water with a drop of soap in it, it really helped the process!

Author:  mudbogger [ Sun Feb 14, 2010 2:38 pm ]
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Got some work perfomred on it today-crank in,trans installed with hardware-kicker in with gears-here some pictures.
I measured the ring gap and piston-jug for clearances:
ring gap for both rings set just below the skirts 0.4mm (as per manual that's stock)
Jug top is 69.58mm
jug bottom is 69.82mm
Piston top is 69.55
Piston bottom 69.75mm

that's gives me 0.03 piston wall clearance on top and 0.07 on the bottom with the new OEM jug and Piston set.Standard as per manual is 0.049 - 0.059mm.

Attachments:
File comment: clutch dry fitted to make sure all the spacer and washer are correct.
tecate motor pic 007.jpg
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tecate motor pic 008.jpg
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tecate motor pic 009.jpg
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tecate motor pic 010.jpg
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Author:  hoser [ Sun Feb 14, 2010 2:45 pm ]
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Mudbogger wrote:
Got some work perfomred on it today-crank in,trans installed with hardware-kicker in with gears-here some pictures.
I measured the ring gap and piston-jug for clearances:
ring gap for both rings set just below the skirts .016mm
Jug top is 69.58mm
jug bottom is 69.82mm
Piston top is 69.55
Piston bottom 69.75mm

that's gives me 0.03 piston wall clearance on top and 0.07 on the bottom with the new OEM jug and Piston set.


Recheck the bore taper I never seen a new OEM cylinder with taper like that

Author:  mudbogger [ Sun Feb 14, 2010 2:58 pm ]
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ok, will do.I am looking at my old measurements from the old jug I sent out, the taper is quite lareg in that one as well.old jug was:
69.74 top
69.85 bottom
piston was:
69.67 top
69.82 bottom

Author:  mudbogger [ Sun Feb 14, 2010 4:41 pm ]
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Any ideas on how I can check to insure the crank has gone all the way inot the bearings?It slid right in to the bearing with a very light coating of ANIT-SIEZE on it, but I am unsure if it is all the way.Any thoughts?

Author:  mudbogger [ Mon Feb 15, 2010 10:09 pm ]
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Got the bottom end assemblied today, dry fitted it once to check for sure everything was on the up and up, then I reassemblied it using the YAMABOND.The top end will be completed in the coming week hopefully.

Author:  Tpreed [ Mon Feb 15, 2010 11:35 pm ]
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Mudbogger wrote:
Got the bottom end assemblied today, dry fitted it once to check for sure everything was on the up and up, then I reassemblied it using the YAMABOND.The top end will be completed in the coming week hopefully.


when do i get to ride it?

Author:  mudbogger [ Wed Feb 17, 2010 6:48 pm ]
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US CHROME called today-the old jug has been completed with replating and a fresh piston kit.Being that the turn around was so quick I may just re-use this 1 and save the OEM jug for a later time.They (uschrome)match the piston to wall clearances for you right at the factory when they plate them, so it should be right on!

Author:  hoser [ Wed Feb 17, 2010 8:00 pm ]
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Mudbogger wrote:
US CHROME called today-the old jug has been completed with replating and a fresh piston kit.Being that the turn around was so quick I may just re-use this 1 and save the OEM jug for a later time.They (uschrome)macth the pistonto wall clearnaces for you right at the factory when they plate them, so it should be right on!


Save the OEM cylinder run the rebuilt cylinder...

Author:  King Kx [ Wed Feb 17, 2010 10:11 pm ]
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Mudbogger wrote:
US CHROME called today-the old jug has been completed with replating and a fresh piston kit.Being that the turn around was so quick I may just re-use this 1 and save the OEM jug for a later time.They (uschrome)macth the pistonto wall clearnaces for you right at the factory when they plate them, so it should be right on!


They should set the piston to wall clearance. The plating is very hard and is not supposed to be honed with a normal hone. Trying to hone a plated cylinder can damage it - usually the coating will begin to flake on you.

Author:  mudbogger [ Thu Feb 18, 2010 7:25 am ]
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Correct, US CHROME spoke to me about the processes and never to bore these jugs ever.BTW do you happen to know whay KAWASAKI jugs have so much taper in them by chance?

Author:  mozzy [ Thu Feb 18, 2010 11:16 am ]
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Mud, you're a rebuilding machine!!

You do great work & so fast too.

There must be a lot of guys out there that 'owe' you bigtime for you to 'acquire' all those OEM parts for your rides. :-)

Author:  King Kx [ Thu Feb 18, 2010 7:25 pm ]
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Mudbogger wrote:
Correct, US CHROME spoke to me about the processes and never to bore these jugs ever.BTW do you happen to know whay KAWASAKI jugs have so much taper in them by chance?


I don't know for sure as to why there is so much taper. At operating temp the cyl may loose its taper. Power valves will change the heat characteristics of a cylinder (changing port timing) at different rpms's, so the taper may be engineered into its design. Help prevent ring gap butting, sticking???
We always had great luck with kawasaki two stroke engines. Never lost a top or bottom end in years of racing. I never cared for their clutch baskets and internal linkage. Water pump seals like to weap.

Author:  mudbogger [ Sat Feb 20, 2010 11:27 pm ]
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I am expecting the old jug to be here this week, after the re-plating I am curious as too the taper of it in regards to the OEM jug I purchased off Ebay.I'll take measurements and compare the 2 for shits and giggles.I installed the clutch friction and metal plates tonight, I got confused as to the metal plates-they are aftermarket EBC plates and one side is beveled, the other is a sharp edge-does it matter which edge goes into the clutcj housing,the package for the EBC clutch pack did not have any type of directions, and the manual does not state which way to insert them-got me puzzled for sure.Anyway, the bottom end is all done, I await the top end and should have this all together in the coming week hopefully.Any hekp on those metal plates is appreciated, I got the friction plates in fine, just those metal ones are bothering me.

Author:  mudbogger [ Sun Feb 21, 2010 10:31 am ]
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Called EBC and posted a question in regards to this on the 3 wheeler board, according to both it does not matter which way you install them, just make sure they are all the same way-meaning flatside in on all, vice-versa-that's it!
Going to work on the trike itself today, need to install rear carrier bearings,clutch lever,kill switch,and some other goodies.Will post pictures later.I am not going to powder coat this ride, I want to make sure it is a reliable ride, which runs perfect before I even think of going to the restore mode on it

Author:  mudbogger [ Sun Feb 21, 2010 11:11 am ]
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some pictures of the bottom end:

Attachments:
File comment: Bearings -not crank, others for the gear shafts and all others
IMG00097-20100203-1531.jpg
IMG00097-20100203-1531.jpg [ 562.87 KiB | Viewed 3578 times ]
IMG00099-20100221-0938.jpg
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IMG00100-20100221-0938.jpg
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IMG00101-20100221-0939.jpg
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IMG00102-20100221-0939.jpg
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Author:  mudbogger [ Sun Feb 21, 2010 4:50 pm ]
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Installed new swinger bearings and seals, also the rear carrier bearings and seals too on the ride, the chain guide is scrap, and there were numerous broken bolts for the skid plate which I drilled and re-tapped on the swinger.It appears to me it has been welded in the front at some point-the tubes that accept the bearings look to me to be homemade,there's no stops on the inside for the bearings, that's weird to me, most of my other swingers have stops in them, I'll post some pictures when I get back home later.The rear carrier bearings are sealed 6007's

Author:  mudbogger [ Sun Feb 21, 2010 7:25 pm ]
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pics

Attachments:
IMG00125-20100221-1253.jpg
IMG00125-20100221-1253.jpg [ 654.41 KiB | Viewed 3577 times ]
File comment: Is it me or do these look to have been replaced, there's no stops inside the tubes for the bearing to seat on --
IMG00126-20100221-1253.jpg
IMG00126-20100221-1253.jpg [ 891.46 KiB | Viewed 3577 times ]
File comment: rear carrier mounted with new bearings, these are really easy to do on the tecates
IMG00127-20100221-1254.jpg
IMG00127-20100221-1254.jpg [ 784.91 KiB | Viewed 3577 times ]
File comment: Back on the trike and ready for a shock
IMG00129-20100221-1534.jpg
IMG00129-20100221-1534.jpg [ 750.9 KiB | Viewed 3577 times ]

Author:  mudbogger [ Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:26 pm ]
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Got the cylinder back from US CHROME-here's some pictures for you.According to US CHROME the ports are not to be touched at all due to the plating.I also got a new intake which is made from a member on the 3 wheeler boards, the material is very durable poly rubber.

Attachments:
File comment: jug before re-plating
IMG00051-20100123-1744.jpg
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File comment: before re-replating
IMG00049-20100123-1743.jpg
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File comment: before pictures
IMG00072-20100123-1910.jpg
IMG00072-20100123-1910.jpg [ 616.22 KiB | Viewed 3577 times ]
File comment: after re-plating process
DSC00011.JPG
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DSC00013.JPG
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Author:  mudbogger [ Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:30 pm ]
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more

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Author:  mudbogger [ Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:32 pm ]
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more

Attachments:
DSC00015.JPG
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File comment: v-force3 reeds
DSC00017.JPG
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DSC00018.JPG
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Author:  mudbogger [ Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:35 pm ]
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Ordered a RICKY STATOR flywheel and stator 80 watt today as well for the bottom end.

Author:  mudbogger [ Sat Mar 06, 2010 2:39 pm ]
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motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is completed, just need the stator and flywheel, which is on it's way.The piston was prepped as per Hosers tech pages: http://pilotodyssey.com/pistonprep.htm and new rings installed with all new OEM gaskets, torqued per manual specs and is ready for bolt in.Here's some pictures:

Attachments:
IMG00156-20100306-1244.jpg
IMG00156-20100306-1244.jpg [ 644.38 KiB | Viewed 3577 times ]
File comment: that's the intake the gentleman makes on the 3 wheeler boards, worked well.I will air leak test tomorrow, want to gasket to set up.
IMG00157-20100306-1245.jpg
IMG00157-20100306-1245.jpg [ 502.13 KiB | Viewed 3577 times ]
File comment: Jug from US CHROME installed with new wISECO 70MM PISTON,wirstpin, bearing,all new V-force 3 reeds with stuffer(that's stock)
IMG00158-20100306-1245.jpg
IMG00158-20100306-1245.jpg [ 528.42 KiB | Viewed 3577 times ]
File comment: kicker side
IMG00160-20100306-1245.jpg
IMG00160-20100306-1245.jpg [ 490.68 KiB | Viewed 3577 times ]

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