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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:37 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
Got the shocks in today, and the tires and rims.I am hopefully to get some detailed pictures of the a-arms extended and compressed for caster degrees, the actual shocks degrees, weights as asked for by ADNOH,lengths of shock compressions, etc thiS weekend.I had limited time today, but I have made some progress on the 350 project, the brake line bracket was fabbed and welded onto the 350 steering column, and the cross braces for the top shock mounts was welded,the bottom bracket for the mounting of the steering column as per the instructions was modified for the kit, and we also did some detailed aligning of the steering tie rods and hardware.I am going to have 1 issue it seems with the kit, and I have thought about this for some time,in MY case on the right side the bolt for the tie rods is so close to the sub-frame, I am going to have to make a dimple in the sub frame to make sure it does not touch under full droop, now the 06 trx shocks does not allow the suspension to droop far enough for the bolt to hit by design, but I am going to make sure by "dimpling" the sub frame so in a extreme case if it does travel to far, or I change the shocks out to another type, I will not have to worry.Now, as I said in my case, the left side has no issue, it is not as close as the right side for some reason and a "dimple" will not be needed.I cannot tell you that my frame may be bent ever so slightly on the right side, or the kit's sub frame was just a hair off when fabbed on the right side, I really can't tell, I am leaning toward the bottom frame rail may have just taken a hit somewhere along the line and just set it up/down enough to cause this issue.I can tell you a longer shock is not going to work with the kit, there is just not enough clearance in the tie rod for it, when Kaownda told me the kit was designed for the 06 trx shocks, he meant it.I have the sections of brake lines fabbed up, we didn't put them on as time was flying and I had to run.Here's some pictures for you of the progress to date.
Oh, I got 22 x 7 x 10 maxxis sure traks tires and Douglass rims from ROCKY MTN for the ride.


Attachments:
File comment: Brake line bracket fabbed and welded, I will need to switch the lines around on the bottom for the lvers to be like the 350's stockers
Kawonda front LT kit 001.jpg
Kawonda front LT kit 001.jpg [ 772.44 KiB | Viewed 830 times ]
File comment: Another view of bracket for the Pilot lines
Kawonda front LT kit 002.jpg
Kawonda front LT kit 002.jpg [ 677.44 KiB | Viewed 829 times ]
File comment: top shock mounts welded
Kawonda front LT kit 004.jpg
Kawonda front LT kit 004.jpg [ 717.95 KiB | Viewed 829 times ]
File comment: here is the right side I speak of, it may be hard to see but the bolt is dam close on extended droop of the a-arm RIGHT SIDE ONLY
Kawonda front LT kit 003.jpg
Kawonda front LT kit 003.jpg [ 634.2 KiB | Viewed 830 times ]
File comment: This is the left side, even with the bolt loose you can see the difference in the spacing, this is at total droop of a-arm
Kawonda front LT kit 007.jpg
Kawonda front LT kit 007.jpg [ 724.53 KiB | Viewed 829 times ]
File comment: another view of the right side, here is where I am going to dimple the frame, the clearance is poor.
Kawonda front LT kit 008.jpg
Kawonda front LT kit 008.jpg [ 730.32 KiB | Viewed 830 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
more pictures:
I forgot to mention as per the instruction, the undermount bracket for the 350 column has to be cut and modded just alittle to allow proper clearances of the tie rod ends on the linkage, I pictured it here but I did not have a spare stock 1 handy to show the difference in them, my apologies.


Attachments:
File comment: sub frame rear mount, I welded it, the kit comes with a bracket for this,I omitted it for a weld.
Kawonda front LT kit 005.jpg
Kawonda front LT kit 005.jpg [ 640.46 KiB | Viewed 829 times ]
File comment: 06 trx stock OEM front shocks, they have damper adjusters on the rese's
Kawonda front LT kit 006.jpg
Kawonda front LT kit 006.jpg [ 491.46 KiB | Viewed 829 times ]
File comment: Lower mount whicg needed to be cut alittle and edged for clearances of the tie rod ends on the column shaft
Kawonda front LT kit 009.jpg
Kawonda front LT kit 009.jpg [ 678.55 KiB | Viewed 829 times ]
File comment: LOL, anybody remember this shitty set-up by chance?Can you guess where this is from?
A-arm kit 006.jpg
A-arm kit 006.jpg [ 154.52 KiB | Viewed 829 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:55 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 5:36 am
Posts: 1345
Location: Benson, NC
about the longer shocks I am not sure I follow completely. Once everything is finished, do you think you would be able to add LT a arms and shocks down the road ?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:58 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5246
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
check the fit of your bushings on the pivot end of your right side? OR just shave the head of the bolt down enough to still get a wrench on it..
This might be easier than dimpleing the sub-frame, and wont damage the integrety of the sub frame...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:38 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 1913
Location: near NJ rider
It also looks like there is still a space under the head of the bolt?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 8:02 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22086
Location: Chicago
Any clearance problems with the shocks on at full droop?


Stainless steel don't rust .

Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:33 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5246
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
hoser wrote:
Any clearance problems with the shocks on at full droop?



Stainless steel don't rust .


You mean I wasn't the only one he shipped the rusty links to!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 5:39 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
Sunblock wrote:
about the longer shocks I am not sure I follow completely. Once everything is finished, do you think you would be able to add LT a arms and shocks down the road ?


YOU could add LT arms, but the 450r arms are pretty long to begin with.The shocks I would say depends on the arms you would be installing, you cannot with these arms let the suspension droop fully, the tie rod linkage will hit the sub frame for sure,and the longer the arm the more stress you'll put on the hiems that are used.The angle of the tie rods themselves might not work with the longer arms.I would have to use a +4 arm or something and check.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 5:42 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
Turbotexas wrote:
check the fit of your bushings on the pivot end of your right side? OR just shave the head of the bolt down enough to still get a wrench on it..
This might be easier than dimpleing the sub-frame, and wont damage the integrety of the sub frame...


Yeah, the pictures are of the bolt loose, but even tightened it is really close.I could shave the head off as well, but the dimple isnt going to hurt as well IMO.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 5:43 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
hoser wrote:
Any clearance problems with the shocks on at full droop?


Stainless steel don't rust .

Image



None at all with the TRX 450R SHOCKS.
Stainless don't rust, except when purchased from Michigan.
Those have never seen a ounce of dirt-been in my house in the spare room,how you like me now?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 5:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
bullnerd wrote:
It also looks like there is still a space under the head of the bolt?


Right, I should have pictured it torqued down, it is loose, but even tightened it is very close on te right side for sure.You can see the bolt is not even on in the 1 picture.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 5:37 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
Today I cut the stock front upper shock mounts off the frame, as well as the floor tub/fender brackets as well.Since I have welded the kit to the frame and the upper bracing does not allow the fenders to be installed without a ton of cutting, I have made a personal decision to not run fenders on the project-NOW-the kit can be used with the fenders on, the upper shock tower bracket will need to be welded in a different location to do it, but I went for a horizontal approach to my bracing,you can do it in other ways to use a fender.I will see if KAWONDA has fabbed up floor pans for the kit, his site lists them as coming soon, my friend and me can also do it if time allows.
I started the process of mounting the front arms and shocks, due to the kit's vast array of suspensions it was designed to accept, I will need a tiny spacer on each side of the sperical bearing spacers to make them centered in the mounts.I might have in hindsight welded the brackets closer, this is a oversight on my part, make sure if you buy the kit that your mounts are located properly on the sub-frame.This is not a big deal, the space needed to be made up is like the thickness of a flat washer, so it is not that big of a deal.I also need to make a spacer for each side of the top shock mount for proper alignment on the lower arms.The brake lines are run and connected, I am not going to go any further on them as I still need to rebuild them.I removed all of the stock brake lines off the front end,and we started mocking up brackets for the pilot rad that I will be using for the project.Pictures to follow.
I actually toyed with the idea of trying to make a rear suspension out of Pilot suspension items, but the axles are a issue I think I might be going into untested waters with.I do not think I can use the stock 350 carriers on a Pilot carrier-I might need to start measuring the OD'S of the axles where they sit in the carriers, and also the lengths of them both.It might be a workable upgrade, but we will see.I would like to keep the 350 axles,as the Pilot axles are discontinued.I also thought about taking the ride to a local drive train shop to see if the could fab a axle with cv's like the Pilot in the future if we decide to go this route.I was looking at some rear Pilot pictures, it is feasible to mount the arm on the 350 frame one would think, the rears are not that much different.


Attachments:
co pilot rear view FOX AIRS.jpg
co pilot rear view FOX AIRS.jpg [ 732.95 KiB | Viewed 832 times ]
COLORADO Pilot 1st ride 021.jpg
COLORADO Pilot 1st ride 021.jpg [ 1.35 MiB | Viewed 832 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:16 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 1913
Location: near NJ rider
I think the fuel tank is in the way on an oddy.

Can you fit a pilot tank in the pilot location on an oddy?Free up a lot of space around the rear suspension.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:32 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22086
Location: Chicago
If I was going to change the rear suspension on a 350 I would not use rare and expensive Pilot parts they are not even close to fitting or working anyways I would use cheap and easy to find VW axles and make longer trailing arms like on the drakart or stadium lites, keep the rare Pilot parts for spares.

With the prices of Pilots these days your better off parting out the 350 and buying a Pilot why spend twice as much transforming a 350 into a Pilot?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 7:01 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
hoser wrote:
If I was going to change the rear suspension on a 350 I would not use rare and expensive Pilot parts they are not even close to fitting or working anyways I would use cheap and easy to find VW axles and make longer trailing arms like on the drakart or stadium lites, keep the rare Pilot parts for spares.

With the prices of Pilots these days your better off parting out the 350 and buying a Pilot why spend twice as much transforming a 350 into a Pilot?


it was just a thought- :-)
I agree, but it might be a cool thing to fab up- :-)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 12:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
Ok, had some time this morning to work on the kit. I ran the brakes lines for the kit as the stock lines are not used, we fabbed bushings for the TRX shocks and torqued everything down to spec. I have to say this a stout kit for sure! My initial thoughts regarding the bolts for the tie rods were not true, after lining up the front end and tightening down the bolt clears the frame with room to sapre, there is no need for the subframe to be peaned in for clearances AT ALL! The kit lined up nicely, is really a sweet unit. Very happy with the way it came in after tightening. My battery is low and I an on the road so I will post later. I still need to clean up the frame rails from the old suspension components that I torched off as I will not be running fenders on it. Still to come is the fabbing of the mounts for the Pilot radiator and the battery box mods, as well as a resevoir mount for the coolant overflow.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2010 5:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
Fabbed some mounts for the Pilot radiator today,also took some measurements on the front end for you guys.I am running 23 x 7 x 10 Maxxis sure traks 6 ply's on this ody.Measurements for you are without driver in the ody sitting level.The shock's angle is at 70 degrees,the tie rods are at 10 degrees,lower a-arm's are 9' ground clearance,I had to mod the bracket for the brake line to clear the tub(see pictures) and I fabbed shims for the upper shock mounts as well(pictured).The clearances on the tie rod arms are fine, I took a picture of that as well.


Attachments:
File comment: shock angles, level ground
IMG00244-20100501-1445.jpg
IMG00244-20100501-1445.jpg [ 760.02 KiB | Viewed 738 times ]
File comment: tie rod angle sitting level, there is no binding at all when turned completely to left or right
IMG00246-20100501-1446.jpg
IMG00246-20100501-1446.jpg [ 547.65 KiB | Viewed 738 times ]
File comment: ground clearance sitting level again, no driver in the ody
IMG00248-20100501-1508.jpg
IMG00248-20100501-1508.jpg [ 508.16 KiB | Viewed 739 times ]
File comment: upper bracket measurement
IMG00249-20100501-1509.jpg
IMG00249-20100501-1509.jpg [ 453.39 KiB | Viewed 739 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2010 5:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
More pictures.I also fabbed the battery box to accept the Pilot electronics cluster today.Pictures of the rad mounts,and other stuff:


Attachments:
File comment: BOTTOM bracket, I will drill the holes larger to accept the stock rubber bushings, then the rad will sit in it perfectly.
IMG00241-20100501-1442.jpg
IMG00241-20100501-1442.jpg [ 644.36 KiB | Viewed 738 times ]
File comment: bar will be welded across, then brackets made for each side of the rad, simple.
IMG00240-20100501-1442.jpg
IMG00240-20100501-1442.jpg [ 626.78 KiB | Viewed 739 times ]
File comment: front view of Pilot radiator
IMG00243-20100501-1443.jpg
IMG00243-20100501-1443.jpg [ 592.42 KiB | Viewed 738 times ]
File comment: had to mod the bracket for the provided brake line to sit flush when tub was in
IMG00242-20100501-1443.jpg
IMG00242-20100501-1443.jpg [ 646.77 KiB | Viewed 739 times ]
File comment: upper shock shims I fabbed
IMG00252-20100501-1511.jpg
IMG00252-20100501-1511.jpg [ 530.55 KiB | Viewed 740 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2010 5:53 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
more pictures


Attachments:
File comment: this picture is the problem area I was speaking of-it is not after tightening the bolts/nuts on this arm.
IMG00245-20100501-1446.jpg
IMG00245-20100501-1446.jpg [ 533.46 KiB | Viewed 738 times ]
File comment: left front suspension
IMG00247-20100501-1451.jpg
IMG00247-20100501-1451.jpg [ 637.77 KiB | Viewed 739 times ]
File comment: at total droop the tie rods have clearance with the TRX SHOCKS
IMG00250-20100501-1510.jpg
IMG00250-20100501-1510.jpg [ 693.86 KiB | Viewed 738 times ]
File comment: A VIEW FROM THE FRONT
IMG00177-20100327-1748.jpg
IMG00177-20100327-1748.jpg [ 761.18 KiB | Viewed 738 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 8:01 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
updated pictures of the project.Radiator is in and mounted.


Attachments:
IMG00270-20100512-1326.jpg
IMG00270-20100512-1326.jpg [ 764.43 KiB | Viewed 741 times ]
IMG00271-20100512-1326.jpg
IMG00271-20100512-1326.jpg [ 620.59 KiB | Viewed 738 times ]
IMG00272-20100512-1326.jpg
IMG00272-20100512-1326.jpg [ 752.61 KiB | Viewed 738 times ]
IMG00273-20100512-1326.jpg
IMG00273-20100512-1326.jpg [ 665.33 KiB | Viewed 738 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 10:20 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2007 10:52 pm
Posts: 510
Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
Nice job MUD, I can't wait to see it finished, what is that radiator out of? looks like it should do a good job of keeping it cool, all you guys making these fancy radiator brakets are making me feel bad since I have my radiator held on with ZIP TIES :-) I guess I should make some sort of brakets.

Bob


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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 11:26 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 5:36 am
Posts: 1345
Location: Benson, NC
badbob66 wrote:
Nice job MUD, I can't wait to see it finished, what is that radiator out of? looks like it should do a good job of keeping it cool, all you guys making these fancy radiator brakets are making me feel bad since I have my radiator held on with ZIP TIES :-) I guess I should make some sort of brakets.

Bob


I agree, looks good. And really where do you guys go to get these brackets made without costing too much? I just had one of the metal ones I bent out and made break. Seems like someone would make some brackets that work for the most common radiators to help fab newbies like me.


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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 7:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
I actually fabbed them at my friends shop, with his guidance and assistance especially when welding.The bar is regular 1 1/4 tubing purchased at local hardware store, the brackets are flat stock heated and bent, then a metric bolt welded to that, It is a simple yet effective rad mount.Thanks for the kind words, but honestly without my friends help I could never get this far.


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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 10:35 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5246
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Have you got a high back seat to put in this? I don't like the bar behind my head like that... it will crack your noggin for sure in a spill...


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PostPosted: Fri May 14, 2010 9:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
Turbotexas wrote:
Have you got a high back seat to put in this? I don't like the bar behind my head like that... it will crack your noggin for sure in a spill...


Actually, no I don't currently.I felt a helmet may hit the bar but with the head net there I do not think it is a issue.At least to me it isn't.That's why I wear a helmet!


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