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Project #5 Kawonda FL350 http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=6913 |
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Author: | mudbogger [ Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:37 pm ] | |||||||
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Got the shocks in today, and the tires and rims.I am hopefully to get some detailed pictures of the a-arms extended and compressed for caster degrees, the actual shocks degrees, weights as asked for by ADNOH,lengths of shock compressions, etc thiS weekend.I had limited time today, but I have made some progress on the 350 project, the brake line bracket was fabbed and welded onto the 350 steering column, and the cross braces for the top shock mounts was welded,the bottom bracket for the mounting of the steering column as per the instructions was modified for the kit, and we also did some detailed aligning of the steering tie rods and hardware.I am going to have 1 issue it seems with the kit, and I have thought about this for some time,in MY case on the right side the bolt for the tie rods is so close to the sub-frame, I am going to have to make a dimple in the sub frame to make sure it does not touch under full droop, now the 06 trx shocks does not allow the suspension to droop far enough for the bolt to hit by design, but I am going to make sure by "dimpling" the sub frame so in a extreme case if it does travel to far, or I change the shocks out to another type, I will not have to worry.Now, as I said in my case, the left side has no issue, it is not as close as the right side for some reason and a "dimple" will not be needed.I cannot tell you that my frame may be bent ever so slightly on the right side, or the kit's sub frame was just a hair off when fabbed on the right side, I really can't tell, I am leaning toward the bottom frame rail may have just taken a hit somewhere along the line and just set it up/down enough to cause this issue.I can tell you a longer shock is not going to work with the kit, there is just not enough clearance in the tie rod for it, when Kaownda told me the kit was designed for the 06 trx shocks, he meant it.I have the sections of brake lines fabbed up, we didn't put them on as time was flying and I had to run.Here's some pictures for you of the progress to date. Oh, I got 22 x 7 x 10 maxxis sure traks tires and Douglass rims from ROCKY MTN for the ride.
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Author: | mudbogger [ Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:46 pm ] | |||||
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more pictures: I forgot to mention as per the instruction, the undermount bracket for the 350 column has to be cut and modded just alittle to allow proper clearances of the tie rod ends on the linkage, I pictured it here but I did not have a spare stock 1 handy to show the difference in them, my apologies.
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Author: | Sunblock [ Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:55 pm ] |
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about the longer shocks I am not sure I follow completely. Once everything is finished, do you think you would be able to add LT a arms and shocks down the road ? |
Author: | Turbotexas [ Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:58 pm ] |
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check the fit of your bushings on the pivot end of your right side? OR just shave the head of the bolt down enough to still get a wrench on it.. This might be easier than dimpleing the sub-frame, and wont damage the integrety of the sub frame... |
Author: | bullnerd [ Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:38 pm ] |
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It also looks like there is still a space under the head of the bolt? |
Author: | hoser [ Thu Apr 08, 2010 8:02 am ] |
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Any clearance problems with the shocks on at full droop? Stainless steel don't rust . |
Author: | Turbotexas [ Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:33 am ] |
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hoser wrote: Any clearance problems with the shocks on at full droop?
Stainless steel don't rust . You mean I wasn't the only one he shipped the rusty links to!!! |
Author: | mudbogger [ Thu Apr 08, 2010 5:39 pm ] |
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Sunblock wrote: about the longer shocks I am not sure I follow completely. Once everything is finished, do you think you would be able to add LT a arms and shocks down the road ?
YOU could add LT arms, but the 450r arms are pretty long to begin with.The shocks I would say depends on the arms you would be installing, you cannot with these arms let the suspension droop fully, the tie rod linkage will hit the sub frame for sure,and the longer the arm the more stress you'll put on the hiems that are used.The angle of the tie rods themselves might not work with the longer arms.I would have to use a +4 arm or something and check. |
Author: | mudbogger [ Thu Apr 08, 2010 5:42 pm ] |
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Turbotexas wrote: check the fit of your bushings on the pivot end of your right side? OR just shave the head of the bolt down enough to still get a wrench on it..
This might be easier than dimpleing the sub-frame, and wont damage the integrety of the sub frame... Yeah, the pictures are of the bolt loose, but even tightened it is really close.I could shave the head off as well, but the dimple isnt going to hurt as well IMO. |
Author: | mudbogger [ Thu Apr 08, 2010 5:43 pm ] |
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hoser wrote: Any clearance problems with the shocks on at full droop?
Stainless steel don't rust . None at all with the TRX 450R SHOCKS. Stainless don't rust, except when purchased from Michigan. Those have never seen a ounce of dirt-been in my house in the spare room,how you like me now? |
Author: | mudbogger [ Thu Apr 08, 2010 5:45 pm ] |
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bullnerd wrote: It also looks like there is still a space under the head of the bolt?
Right, I should have pictured it torqued down, it is loose, but even tightened it is very close on te right side for sure.You can see the bolt is not even on in the 1 picture. |
Author: | mudbogger [ Sun Apr 18, 2010 5:37 pm ] | |||
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Today I cut the stock front upper shock mounts off the frame, as well as the floor tub/fender brackets as well.Since I have welded the kit to the frame and the upper bracing does not allow the fenders to be installed without a ton of cutting, I have made a personal decision to not run fenders on the project-NOW-the kit can be used with the fenders on, the upper shock tower bracket will need to be welded in a different location to do it, but I went for a horizontal approach to my bracing,you can do it in other ways to use a fender.I will see if KAWONDA has fabbed up floor pans for the kit, his site lists them as coming soon, my friend and me can also do it if time allows. I started the process of mounting the front arms and shocks, due to the kit's vast array of suspensions it was designed to accept, I will need a tiny spacer on each side of the sperical bearing spacers to make them centered in the mounts.I might have in hindsight welded the brackets closer, this is a oversight on my part, make sure if you buy the kit that your mounts are located properly on the sub-frame.This is not a big deal, the space needed to be made up is like the thickness of a flat washer, so it is not that big of a deal.I also need to make a spacer for each side of the top shock mount for proper alignment on the lower arms.The brake lines are run and connected, I am not going to go any further on them as I still need to rebuild them.I removed all of the stock brake lines off the front end,and we started mocking up brackets for the pilot rad that I will be using for the project.Pictures to follow. I actually toyed with the idea of trying to make a rear suspension out of Pilot suspension items, but the axles are a issue I think I might be going into untested waters with.I do not think I can use the stock 350 carriers on a Pilot carrier-I might need to start measuring the OD'S of the axles where they sit in the carriers, and also the lengths of them both.It might be a workable upgrade, but we will see.I would like to keep the 350 axles,as the Pilot axles are discontinued.I also thought about taking the ride to a local drive train shop to see if the could fab a axle with cv's like the Pilot in the future if we decide to go this route.I was looking at some rear Pilot pictures, it is feasible to mount the arm on the 350 frame one would think, the rears are not that much different.
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Author: | bullnerd [ Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:16 am ] |
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I think the fuel tank is in the way on an oddy. Can you fit a pilot tank in the pilot location on an oddy?Free up a lot of space around the rear suspension. |
Author: | hoser [ Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:32 am ] |
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If I was going to change the rear suspension on a 350 I would not use rare and expensive Pilot parts they are not even close to fitting or working anyways I would use cheap and easy to find VW axles and make longer trailing arms like on the drakart or stadium lites, keep the rare Pilot parts for spares. With the prices of Pilots these days your better off parting out the 350 and buying a Pilot why spend twice as much transforming a 350 into a Pilot? |
Author: | mudbogger [ Mon Apr 19, 2010 7:01 pm ] |
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hoser wrote: If I was going to change the rear suspension on a 350 I would not use rare and expensive Pilot parts they are not even close to fitting or working anyways I would use cheap and easy to find VW axles and make longer trailing arms like on the drakart or stadium lites, keep the rare Pilot parts for spares.
With the prices of Pilots these days your better off parting out the 350 and buying a Pilot why spend twice as much transforming a 350 into a Pilot? it was just a thought- I agree, but it might be a cool thing to fab up- |
Author: | mudbogger [ Mon Apr 26, 2010 12:33 pm ] |
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Ok, had some time this morning to work on the kit. I ran the brakes lines for the kit as the stock lines are not used, we fabbed bushings for the TRX shocks and torqued everything down to spec. I have to say this a stout kit for sure! My initial thoughts regarding the bolts for the tie rods were not true, after lining up the front end and tightening down the bolt clears the frame with room to sapre, there is no need for the subframe to be peaned in for clearances AT ALL! The kit lined up nicely, is really a sweet unit. Very happy with the way it came in after tightening. My battery is low and I an on the road so I will post later. I still need to clean up the frame rails from the old suspension components that I torched off as I will not be running fenders on it. Still to come is the fabbing of the mounts for the Pilot radiator and the battery box mods, as well as a resevoir mount for the coolant overflow. |
Author: | mudbogger [ Sat May 01, 2010 5:40 pm ] | |||||
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Fabbed some mounts for the Pilot radiator today,also took some measurements on the front end for you guys.I am running 23 x 7 x 10 Maxxis sure traks 6 ply's on this ody.Measurements for you are without driver in the ody sitting level.The shock's angle is at 70 degrees,the tie rods are at 10 degrees,lower a-arm's are 9' ground clearance,I had to mod the bracket for the brake line to clear the tub(see pictures) and I fabbed shims for the upper shock mounts as well(pictured).The clearances on the tie rod arms are fine, I took a picture of that as well.
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Author: | mudbogger [ Sat May 01, 2010 5:48 pm ] | ||||||
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More pictures.I also fabbed the battery box to accept the Pilot electronics cluster today.Pictures of the rad mounts,and other stuff:
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Author: | mudbogger [ Sat May 01, 2010 5:53 pm ] | |||||
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more pictures
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Author: | mudbogger [ Wed May 12, 2010 8:01 pm ] | |||||
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updated pictures of the project.Radiator is in and mounted.
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Author: | badbob66 [ Wed May 12, 2010 10:20 pm ] |
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Nice job MUD, I can't wait to see it finished, what is that radiator out of? looks like it should do a good job of keeping it cool, all you guys making these fancy radiator brakets are making me feel bad since I have my radiator held on with ZIP TIES I guess I should make some sort of brakets. Bob |
Author: | Sunblock [ Wed May 12, 2010 11:26 pm ] |
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badbob66 wrote: Nice job MUD, I can't wait to see it finished, what is that radiator out of? looks like it should do a good job of keeping it cool, all you guys making these fancy radiator brakets are making me feel bad since I have my radiator held on with ZIP TIES I guess I should make some sort of brakets.
Bob I agree, looks good. And really where do you guys go to get these brackets made without costing too much? I just had one of the metal ones I bent out and made break. Seems like someone would make some brackets that work for the most common radiators to help fab newbies like me. |
Author: | mudbogger [ Thu May 13, 2010 7:45 pm ] |
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I actually fabbed them at my friends shop, with his guidance and assistance especially when welding.The bar is regular 1 1/4 tubing purchased at local hardware store, the brackets are flat stock heated and bent, then a metric bolt welded to that, It is a simple yet effective rad mount.Thanks for the kind words, but honestly without my friends help I could never get this far. |
Author: | Turbotexas [ Thu May 13, 2010 10:35 pm ] |
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Have you got a high back seat to put in this? I don't like the bar behind my head like that... it will crack your noggin for sure in a spill... |
Author: | mudbogger [ Fri May 14, 2010 9:27 pm ] |
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Turbotexas wrote: Have you got a high back seat to put in this? I don't like the bar behind my head like that... it will crack your noggin for sure in a spill...
Actually, no I don't currently.I felt a helmet may hit the bar but with the head net there I do not think it is a issue.At least to me it isn't.That's why I wear a helmet! |
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