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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 8:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
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Location: New Jersey
search.php?keywords=ppe+carb+jetting&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=all&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

Also went back and read the thread a bit tonight. The current carb is off my LT Pilot that is still to this day at Hosers compound. When Hoser installled the carb is was 65-70m degrees and summertime. And he commented it ran great as it was before I messed with it. So the mystery of the carb is solved, but know the fixing begins.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 8:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
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Location: New Jersey
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=9801&p=88748&hilit=ppe+carb+jetting#p88748
GENERAL SETTINGS ARE:

BS CARB IS running a 39mm pwk
main is 175
pilot is 60
clip on the needel is 4th from the top
im at 200 ft elevation

has a dg chamber pipe on it
and a water cooled head

Nuke-em has 39pwk;
I run a 39PWK on my ported 350 with the dual K&N prefilter setup. I run a 172 main at lower elevations and 165 at Walden(8,500ft). I don't remember the pilot but its up here in Montana with me if you want me to check

So I am NJ don't have a clue to elevation here(heck I am a teamster ok) AND it is winter temps mid 30's usually.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 9:18 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 2840
Location: Wichita ks
Since you have an pkw I can share some info with you that may relate to your issue. Fisrt of all the flooded venting line can cause the slow jet to seam fat or rich. This happens by the fuel excess at a given fuel levle. I would first check the the crabs float levle and its setiing by way of turning the carb upside down and setting the float seam, levle with the bowls gasket surface. Then I would look at the fuel inlet neddle. This would allow the bowl to over fill and make the pilot jet flood acting as it was rich. We commly refer to this as the neddle and seat which in your case may be bad from either time of fuel additives. I skipped the flot since you tested it already. Untill you solve the fuel bowl levle issue nothing else you do will be any good. The Engine will just be slugish and seam rich or lean depending on what is taking place inside the bowl. I would replace the neddle and seat as a percaution and then you will not need to worry about it for a couple of years unless you neglect it in some way. I'm leaning to this as you have already replaced the T and the bypass is working not forcing fuel pass the neddle and seat.

Theres a free tip in this for some as if for some reson you store your ride and then all of a sudden your jetting is way off. Rule out fule bowl levle first. A neddle and seat is cheap and less time consumming than a bunch of jetting that only lead to Engine failure. What seams rich and then you jet down and then all of sudden that fuel levle drops the engie will go lean on you and as some say poofkaboom.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 10:27 am 
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Location: New Jersey
thank you for the help I had planned on ordering all new internals for the carb rebuilding and installing again.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 9:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
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Location: New Jersey
Ordered a brand new carb 39mm PWK from Jets-r-us for 186 bucks shipped for free. After the horseshit I dealt with the other day I just wanted to start fresh. I will save the old carb for parts here as I run all 39mm PWK on my pilots.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 9:28 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
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Location: New Jersey
Ordered a rebuild kit for the old 39mm PWK carb today.Might sell or trade it for some parts in future.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 9:44 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2008 1:45 pm
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Location: Cedar Crest New Mexico
Good morning Sir, what parts come in the rebuild kit and how much was the kit.

Thank you.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 10:35 am 
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Location: New Jersey
http://www.jetsrus.com/carb_rebuild_kit ... eihin.html

I buy pretty much everything from these guys Steve, either them or carbpartswarehouse. Prices are pretty much the same.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 11:12 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
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Location: New Jersey
ok here is a sample of why I went to a new carb over rebuilding what I have:
New 39mm PWK was 186 plus shipping.Brand new.
To purchase all of the internals to rebuild the current carb was 196 and you still have the wear on the body you can't fix to deal with. I went ahead ordered the rebuild kit,needle and seat,new floats,throttle valve(that alone was 63 bucks) everything that did not come with the rebuild kit I purchased.And there is no guarantee the carb will perform properly with the sldie wear it has. As a footnote here again we see damage to a slide from improper air filtration, can we all agree prefilters are a MUST on these engines????


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 11:37 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2008 1:45 pm
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Location: Cedar Crest New Mexico
Thank you very much my Friend.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 11:42 am 
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Location: New Jersey
my pleasure Steve!! :-)


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 2:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
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Location: New Jersey
New carb came in, installing tomorrow as the weather is in the high 50's and sunny!! Plus the intakes are warm as well. As soon as I get the old carb out I will rebuild it as well.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 7:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
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Location: New Jersey
Well as the crow flies I had no time to install the carb till today. All stock internals 39mm PWK clip on middle setting. I mean holy shit did it wake this up!!!!!!The Engine was like a brand new machine, it jetted right in after like 10 minutes-nice brown on the plug, idle circuit works flawlessly, goes right down to a nice smooth idle,powers right through the throttle ranges. The front end is light and responsive, the shocks are valved very soft so when under hard acceleration it is very light and a slight touch of the wheel it reacts. Very pleased.
Now the bad. I need 2 front tires as both of them have holes on the sidewall. They have leaked since day 1, and this does not surprise me as everything on it was basically not in good shape. The rears as well are going to be replaced too.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 8:01 pm 
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Location: New Jersey
I also did indeed rebuild the old carb, everything new internally from the floats to the gaskets on the top lid. I had an issue with the bowl overflow leaking fuel all the time, so I even checked the float levels(16mm) and replaced everything. I will sell this carb if somebody likes!


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 8:49 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
Took the PPE out yesterday for a jetting session and suspension tweaking.
First the front shocks are way too soft for my riding. These WORKS have adjustable resevoirs so I started there first. I tightened them up starting 1 click at a time, had to go way up on them to make it any where near what I need. The ride height on them is perfect, but they constantly bottom out especially over any form of jump. After adjustments on the rese's it did help tremendously, but they still need to be re valved for this EAST COAST terrian. Here is a picture of my buddy in the PPE.

Attachment:
PPE plug chops 370.jpg
PPE plug chops 370.jpg [ 88.53 KiB | Viewed 518 times ]


My buddy is around 245-250 6-1 and the ride height is pretty good to my eye. The shocks work well as far as keeping the tires to the terrian, but compression off jumps and such is poor, very poor.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 8:55 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
Did some plug chops as well with the new 39mm PWK carb. I don't remember the bore, I believe it is on the first over 81.5. The reeds are Boyesen, and the internals are all stock except for main jet which is a 168 currently. Temp yesterday was 60 degrees F, PARTLY CLOUDY,and I was just a touch above normal elevation. 93 OCTANE using HP2 Honda premix 32:1.


Attachments:
PPE plug chops 372.jpg
PPE plug chops 372.jpg [ 31.73 KiB | Viewed 518 times ]
PPE plug chops 373.jpg
PPE plug chops 373.jpg [ 24.64 KiB | Viewed 518 times ]
PPE plug chops 374.jpg
PPE plug chops 374.jpg [ 73.05 KiB | Viewed 518 times ]
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 8:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
Ordered all new tires and rims for this tonight from Rocky Mountain http://rockymountainatv.com ATV:

23x10x10 Mud Lite AT on Douglas .190 - 1985 Honda FL 350R ODYSSEY Part # 1099700033 272.96 1 In Stock $272.96
…4/130 Douglas .190 Wheel 10X8 3.0 + 5.0 (2 per pkg.) 2
…ITP Mud Lite AT ATV Tire 23x10-10 (2 per pkg.) 2
…ATV Chrome Valve Stem (2 per pkg.) 2

22x8x10 Mud Lite AT on Douglas .190 - 1985 Honda FL 350R ODYSSEY Part # 1099700024 238.96 1 In Stock $238.96
…4/110 Douglas .190 Wheel 10X5 3.0 + 2.0 (2 per pkg.) 2
…ITP Mud Lite AT ATV Tire 22x8-10 (2 per pkg.) 2
…ATV Chrome Valve Stem (2 per pkg.) 2

The current rims are stocks which I love, but the tires are shitty and dry rotted. Time for a change. I need the 6 ply as well as the current fronts both have sidewall leaks from 4 ply status.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 11:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1251
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
mud let me know when you get that wheel and tire package if you have any trouble getting your tires to bead properly..only one of mine holds air. i might have to switch over to tubes..i bought my rims from them as well..i love then and havent noticed anything different. everyone says it will rip the yoke out of your hands but, i have had any issues other than loosing air pressure. might try that tire slim stuff and see if it works


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 12:03 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4488
Location: Carson City NV
Don't use tire slime!

It attacks aluminum and will eventually eat hole through your new aluminum rims!

I lost 2 rims due to this!

Some of your issues might not be the bead, it might be the valve stem itself. One of mine has a slow leak in it where it fits into the rim. Take the wheel off and submerse it in water to find where your leak is.

Rand


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 10:54 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1251
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
Mine is the bead. Soapy water in a sprayer. For whatever reason mine just won't seat.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 8:22 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
fully wrote:
mud let me know when you get that wheel and tire package if you have any trouble getting your tires to bead properly..only one of mine holds air. i might have to switch over to tubes..i bought my rims from them as well..i love then and havent noticed anything different. everyone says it will rip the yoke out of your hands but, i have had any issues other than loosing air pressure. might try that tire slim stuff and see if it works


I sure will-I have had several tire rim package deals with Rocky Mtn and never had any issues other then perhaps a bead that did not seal, for which I used the basic bead sealer paste you can get at many tire shop. I have also used these tires before on my Wifes 350 and never had any type of yanking of the yoke or wheel. I like the 6 ply tires for my riding terrain.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 8:26 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1251
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
Ok so I will stay away from the slime. But I am interested in this bead sealer paste.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 5:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
Hi. It is a standard issued paste most to all tire companies have it in there. It is black in color and is spread on the tires bead surface. Works well.


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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 5:12 pm 
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Location: New Jersey
Rear tires and rims arrived. Still waiting for fronts. :-)


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 7:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
Installed new rims and tires on the PPE today. As asked, they beads were perfect, all 4 tires were filled to proper air pressure a week ago and none leaked at all, I forgot who asked but they held fine.I also installed a ATVR rear skid plate as the old one was a state of texas street sign -LOL. I heat cycled this Engine again today, tuned the carb a touch, I tryed to get it hot enough to use my temp gun to check the temp sending unit which I rewired some time ago, but it got overcast and it never got over 120 degrees for some reason. I do smell some coolant at times on this Engine, and I do not have a leak anywhere as I checked the coolant level before I stored it for 4 weeks and it was exactly the same today. It is not burning it, had that happen to me before and it is not smoking at all. Does the Hillside Honda head I have perhaps "soak" in the coolant it takes time to burn off the metal after a long sit?


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