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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 4:17 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 4:21 pm
Posts: 177
here is the other nice pilot i have that im thinking of selling.
if you can, please email me at junkboy64@gmail.com . im short staffed so im very busy. i will see the emails to my email account right away.

i think im wanting to sell my pilot with the yoda long travel front with the fox air shocks, beard seat kit with skid plate & motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) heat shield. the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is brand new, but i think i would be putting in a good original runner as the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) in it now has a lot of work in it, ported, polished & then rebuilt by cw racing and i want to keep it. so imagine this machine with a good solid std motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).
the yoda long travel machine was for sale on here before. i bought it from a member. its got a 1990 frame but its tagged by honda as a 1989 frame. everything has been taken apart & rebuilt by a pilot oddysey member. i bought it & had it shipped out to me. the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) had low compression so i had it rebuilt. i took it out driving at the dunes & it was really hard to drive and it felt like the rear end skidded around more than it turned. it has 05 trx450es front disk brakes/hubs. the main issue is that when you push down the front, i cannot get the toe set. when you push down the tires squat and turn out a bit one does it a little & the other wheel does it a lot. where its all been apart & gone through, i was going to pull it down for parts, but it has a nice set up that i think if you put the oem drum brakes back on it would fix the problem.
i have enough good machines that i don't want to try & figure this one out. ive gotten burned out on it. ill find some pix of that one. in the pictures it has a spare tank, but that was taken off and is on my machine now.
the yoda equipped machine with a good motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )), but not the rebuilt motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) in it would run $7,800
that's not a firm price, so shoot me some offers.
if you can, please email me at junkboy64@gmail.com so that i can get to your questions very quick.
the first picture is how i got it. its pretty close to that still, but i have worked on it.
lee


Attachments:
File comment: This picture is the day i got it in from the shipper & took it out for a drive.
2016-05-16 14.47.18.jpg
2016-05-16 14.47.18.jpg [ 82.03 KiB | Viewed 581 times ]
yoda long travel.jpg
yoda long travel.jpg [ 66.15 KiB | Viewed 581 times ]
File comment: tank is not included
2016-10-22 17.02.56.jpg
2016-10-22 17.02.56.jpg [ 68.19 KiB | Viewed 581 times ]
2016-12-02 22.10.49.jpg
2016-12-02 22.10.49.jpg [ 69.69 KiB | Viewed 581 times ]
2017-02-23 11.01.43.jpg
2017-02-23 11.01.43.jpg [ 43.66 KiB | Viewed 581 times ]
2017-02-23 11.03.02.jpg
2017-02-23 11.03.02.jpg [ 54.57 KiB | Viewed 581 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 7:59 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:14 pm
Posts: 1779
Location: Ma
Looks like a great Pilot and best of luck with the sale.
The alignment issue you are having is likely bump steer. The YODA kit has quite a bit... This is the reason long travel Pilots have a "bump steer kit" 2 tie rods and 4 joints each side, setup correctly this can eliminate the toe in and out as the a arms cycle.
I have a YODA kit and it's a butt pucker when at speed on rough terrain the bug decides to turn without driver input.
Regards


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 8:02 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:14 pm
Posts: 1779
Location: Ma
Oh and make no mistake. I love my YODA front end I also have Fox 2.0 s as well.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 9:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 4:21 pm
Posts: 177
go oddy,
i did not know that the yoda kit was the cause of that. i just got a really nice pilot with long travel that has the bump steer kit on it. its set up for the track & slides a lot. i was told that if i turn the bump steer pivot arms over that it will set it up to ride at the dunes better. as it is its a bit hard to drive as my upper body strength feels like its lacking.. lol.
this is a nice pilot. if it just needs the bump steer kit, then that would help make it a keeper. ive just been beating my head against the wall trying to get it to work right. it feels like i turn by sliding my rear end around.
junkboy


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 10:50 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:14 pm
Posts: 1779
Location: Ma
Just to clarify, without the bump steer kit the toe will change dramatically as the arms cycle. The pushing can likely be fixed via a arm adjustment at the frame, shock setup, rear end tracking etc. My Pilot corners as if it's on rails with the YODA kit, it's just going staright at speed and hitting a bump/dip/terrain change that can cause the bug to dart left or right. Anywho.... :-) best of luck with the sale. Also riding up here in MA my YODA A arms have taken some major hits (rocks the size of bowling balls ) they have dented and bent but straightened out without issue had held until the next massive impact.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 12:57 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Go oddy,
I may be able.to.help you with your delma. You will need to make a caster change and tow change. Sounds to me you have to much caster in it and the wrong toe setting. It turns on rails due to two much caster. You should be able to move caster forward on degree at a time and maintain a toe in on bump or lessen it at least. As you do this you may need to a touch of camber to compasate for the change in caster and toe in. I bet you close or have toe out. With too much caster. As you make changes log them to go back to happy setting. With your ride height and fix shocks as you set your toe to stock it not enough. So as hits s bump you find your self memicking a turn as the tires go toe out.. to confirm this take it at ride height remove shock and cycle the suspension into bump. If you notice toe out on that tire them that is an issue resolved with more toe in. This also be lessened if you take caster out changing the amount of camber due to the caster. So start with one degree of caster removed st a time not to exceed zero. You will feel the difference in the turning once you hit optimal. Than change you camber back to where it was before caster change. Then set to factory toe in and test. Then if it turn ok go back set at ride height remove shock and check the toe change. You do not want to much toe out during bump. A little ok other than that add toe in not to exceed 3/4. Post result for others
Adnoh


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