Hey new to the forum. I'm looking for a fl400 could be stock but wouldn't mind a rotax. Also would like long arm but if I have to wait to do that myself I would. I'm in Washington state so don't want to have to go to far but maybe Oregon maybe California or idaho. Thanks let me know if you're selling one!

Whats wrong with this ??
https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/snw ... 36478.html
I believe this unit has come up for sale before. But not sure. Apparently a good machine.
Have seen most Pilots go for this price anyways.
CO

Here is a few more:

https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/snw ... 86294.html

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/snw/d/ ... 55041.html
I would look very closely at this machine before you buy it but the seller seems to be very honest about it.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/snw/d/ ... 65863.html

Notice the price of trailer queens are more than or the same as that Redline unit.
CO

By the way welcome new guy.
CO

What part of WA are you from? I'm over in Eastern Wa south of spokane.

Thanks for the replys! I've just been having trouble finding any so I appreciate the help. I'm over by Olympia wa. I'll look at these links real quick

Little out of the price range. I don't mind the redline revolt but the nostalgia makes me want the 400 and to keep it for life lol

I don't think you will find anything on the cheap.
If you do stumble on to something cheap then it will be total garbage that will require a lot of money anyways. Or it will be an estate sale and the punk kids are looking for a quick buck so that they can buy dope. Maybe a divorce and the bitch don't know what her goof lawyer scored for her.
That Redline is a real good price in my opinion. Most Pilots go for that.
CO

I have an 89 pilot that is in really good shape, I bought it to rebuild with my kids , but they have no interest in doing so.i will take a few pics in the morning so I can see what I’m doing. It comes with a extra set of wheels with sand tires . Clean title in hand and registered and insured. Let me know if that sounds like something you would be interested in. Jim Kuchynka 4803041202, I’m located in phx Az.

You crack me up CO. Unfortunately, you are right one it.

So turns out I just had to be patient. I had one come up in Shelton Washington where I work. And almost didnt get it. Someone in front of me didn't have the cash so they gave me a call and I was like don't you worry I'm not flaking lol. Picked up a beautiful pilot in great condition. Worst thing on it is the stickers are just barely starting to peel. It came with spare carbs, shocks, pistons, seals brake pads, mint condition extra seat and a whole set of extra plastics and a arms. I couldn't ask for a better buy. The older couple sold it to me for their asking price of 5k and gave me a number to a friend that had another pilot, I just picked it up from them a week later for 4k. It's an there just needs a top end. Piston had a hole. So now I'm trying to find a machine shop to get this cylinder bored and order a piston and get it together. Then it's just cosmetics. It really just needs a paint job. And the plastics are straight. My wife and I are super happy to have a pair. This second pilot we picked up that had the burnt up piston had a egt gauge on it. Is it needed? I'm going to check the jets and everything but trying to make sure it doesn't burn up again. They only ran it maybe 15 min when they did it. Either they had bad fuel mix or it was getting to much air or something out of adjustment. They only got the one ride out of it so they know nothing about it from the original owner that built it. He passed away and was supposedly tinkering with it tuning it just right and not sure that he ever did. His wife ended up selling it for some work on there Jeep. They are both passed away so no way to ask them questions. Any tips as I bring it back to life? My wife Nick named them beauty and beast for now with their condition lol. Thanks guys!

Congrats on the finds.
Only two things will hole a piston. Fuel or an air leak.
I hope you have not ripped the Engine apart already. If you did then a golden opportunity has been lost.
If the Engine is still together then the first thing you do is pressure test. This will tell you if you had an air leak and it leaned out and holed the piston. The pressure test will tell you if a seal is gone or if there is a leak somewhere else, like the intake manifold. It will also confirm your seals are good or bad. It would suck to do a rebuild and then find out one of the crank seals are shot. Now you would have to start all over again.
With a holed piston, all of the crap went into the bottom end. Look real close at your crank bearings and especially the rod big end bearing. Clean real good.
FUEL ---- don't even want to get into this one anymore. Since you are new here I'll tell you that I'm a strong believer in AVGAS. I'll leave it at that.
Also you may not have to machine out that cylinder. You would have to look at it to see if there is really any damage. My money right now, without even looking at it, says that a bore job is probably a waste of a piston size. You have to be careful here because re-bores are limited and then you have to re-sleeve.
Once you have done the rebuild you MUST do a pressure test. I also do a vacuum test on my FL350 engines, however the vacuum test can be left out.
CO

I was told avgas by the previous owner but I've also heard that I shouldn't run it? I was all for it but what is the controversy over it? It already had the head off when I had gotten it so no chance to pressure test it. How do I know if the damage isn't bad enough to bore it out? I can see some where marks on the exhaust side and intake side but I'm not sure what's to much. I couldn't catch anything with my nails or anything it's all still smooth.

How do you pressure test?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdq7NRcUIp8


There have been MANY melted pistons on this site.
Just look in the tech section and you can read for ever about it.
I am a firm believer in AVGAS because I too have had many holed pistons until I switched to AVGAS. The AV fuel allows you a big safety margin if there is something wrong with your Engine like a small air leak. Pump fuel will detonate if your Engine is not perfect.
I actually posted a thread and asked who ran it. The results here are 50/50.
You choose --- it's your dollar.

Searching for info: The best way to find something here is to use the search box above.
In the search box type ONE word ONLY and hit enter. If you don't you will get to many hits.
When the list of threads comes up there will be another search box there on the right.
In that box type ONE word ONLY. Keep doing this as many times as you want until you have narrowed it down. Some common words will be ignored like "Engine" "Honda" etc.
Also at the very bottom of any thread you read will be an area where there a similar threads to the one you are reading. You can click on them to read.
CO

EDIT:
You asked "how do you know if it needs to be re-bored ?"
You can post CLEAR pics on this site or you can take it to the machine shop and have them look at it.
If you can't hook your fingernail on anything then I bet my rent money it just needs to be honed a bit and a new piston/rings.
CO

EDIT again:
Please note that in the video they forgot to tell people that the piston must be in the down position when you do pressure tests.
The reason is that if the piston is at TDC (Top Dead Center) and you pressure up the Engine, then the combustion chamber is closed and the pressure will slowly leak past the rings and your gauge will show a leak. Obviously you don't have a leak because the crankcase pressure is leaking by the rings into the combustion area and NOT leaking out of a seal.
CO

I appreciate it! I'm going to try and get started on some of this tomorrow. Love how helpful everyone is.

Okay so cylinder measures to an exact 81.00 for the most part top and bottom all the way around. So I hone it, and throw an 81.00 wiseco in? And specific hone I should use?

I think we should start another thread on this in the tech section when you get a chance. Otherwise this will run away with us in the for sale section. JMO.

We have not seen any pictures of your cylinder so I'm azzuming you are calling it good.
I just use a standard three jaw three stone hone you get at an auto parts store.
Don't go crazy on the hone job. You just want to rough up the cylinder so that it's not so glazed. You may not be able to get all the scratches out but that's ok. Don't even try to hone the crap out of it because you see a scratch. I actually have an Engine with a welded piston, used rings, homemade head and deep scratches in the cylinder and it runs fine. There is a thread on this in the tech section.
Now throw in an 81mm and rings. I can not stress enough that everything must be clean. Your bearings must be good and undamaged. When you get this thing together it MUST pass the leak down test.
Another MUST ------- you MUST test your fuel pump flow BEFORE you even start this thing up. You pump must flow 4.5oz approx in 10 seconds. Use a stop watch. It's unbelievable how many engines have exploded because of a bad fuel pump. It leans out your Engine and you hole a piston or melt it on the exhaust side. AVGAS helps a lot with any SMALL issue.
CO