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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2006 11:00 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I finally got around to tearing into my Ody, found the reason, now just need to get the rest done...
here are a few pictures....
I only have 60 psi and when I plugged up the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) to do a leakdown test I found my problem was in the rubber boot from the carb to the reed cage had a hole I could put My finger through...
Tomorrow I'll pull the head and jug, and I will have to take it to Honda to measure the bore, couldn't find a gauge in town. I will probably have to have them hone the jug...
Then I can order the new piston on the size they come up with...
Here are some pictures...


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 Post subject: CSI
PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 8:37 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 6:58 pm
Posts: 357
Location: Wichita, Ks.
I'm glad you found this. It'd be a good idea to follow up with additional pressure testing to make sure there are no other leaks. Inspect rod closely & clean bottom end out well as it more than likely has digested some sand.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 10:11 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
This is why it kept reving up on me... I would have never found it just looking, and it being under the carb, I doubt spraying ether to watch for rev's would have found it either!!!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 6:43 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Ok how do I get this out of crankcase??? I think The kid or myself while washing must have introduced water into the carb and now I can see it in the crankcase???How do I drain??? flush??? I hate to be pushy, but have to leave town again tomorrow, and don't want this sitting over an extended time...
Will post pictures toite after dark...


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 10:07 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Any body have any ideas on removing oil/water mix from crankcase???

Here are some pictures of the piston, and not so good ones of the jug... I can see where something got into the walls and scratched it up real good??? The top ring was real loose also??? I am guessing with all the plug chops I got sand in to the spark plug hole??? Any experts please correct me if I am wrong!!!


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 Post subject: CSI
PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 8:50 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 6:58 pm
Posts: 357
Location: Wichita, Ks.
If you have not pulled the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) do so. Fill it up with K-1 or diesel fuel and dump it & repeat. Spin the crank to flush it around and dump it.

The sand it digested through the intake trashed the piston & rings. I doubt your plug chops did this.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 8:57 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:54 pm
Posts: 1360
Location: Baltimore, Maryland
you can flush some kero or diesel in there and keep working it, after you done that a few times finishing up with a pre-mix rinse or two.

be realistic about the condition of the bottom end if it is suspect then you might as well rebuild it now and save yourself another piston / bore.
any up and down play in the lower crank bearing means its bad, some side to side play is alright, tolerances and how to measure will be in your manual.

if there is ANY rust or pitting on the main bearings or the rod bearing you may as well rebuild the lower end, it won't last


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 Post subject: Re: CSI
PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 3:53 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Toyman wrote:
If you have not pulled the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) do so. Fill it up with K-1 or diesel fuel and dump it & repeat. Spin the crank to flush it around and dump it.

The sand it digested through the intake trashed the piston & rings. I doubt your plug chops did this.


I am thinking when I had the plug out, it got sand from my hands or top of head, but yea I am sure most of it came from intake...


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 4:45 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Take more pics of the piston and cylinder all sides and post please.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2006 7:06 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
hoser wrote:
Take more pics of the piston and cylinder all sides and post please.

I will just have bad signal at the house, when I hit the road again, I'll find a wifi that will let me send a bunch fast...


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 Post subject: Pictures!!!
PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 11:19 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Here are some pictures!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 11:28 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
And some more...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 11:36 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
And even some more... Sorry, first one and all don't want ya'll to miss anything... remembetr I DO NOT know what I am doing yet...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 11:41 pm 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
ok last one I hope...
Nope, just remembered I have more in the camera!! You'll really want to see these!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 11:55 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Look at the lightning bolts and tell me if this is normal???


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 1:31 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Just a bump to see if anyone can look at the last set of pix to see if this was normal???
Thanks...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 6:40 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22105
Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
Just a bump to see if anyone can look at the last set of pix to see if this was normal???
Thanks...


What exactly are you looking for?

You can remove the alumunim from the cylinder wall by using muratic acid and a tooth brush to disolve the aluminum a little at a time, you don't need a safety speech on the acid do you, the warnings on the bottle are enough?


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 Post subject: Muratic
PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 8:00 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 6:58 pm
Posts: 357
Location: Wichita, Ks.
We use muratic acid in my business for cleaning mortar staining from brickwork. It is normally available at a 20% dulution but don't let this fool you as it is still a very dangerous acid at this level. Fumes alone are enough to take your breath away so its' good to work outdoors or with an exhaust fan blowing if inside. Wear some rubber gloves as it'll let you know if you have any small cuts or scrapes. And as Hoser said read the bottle.

Good luck on your rebuild!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 9:10 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
AS big as the gouges are up and down the wall's of cylinder it doesn't need rebored???

Here are the pictures I was referring to... where the arrow's are pointing it loks as if the piston skirt was making contact???

Image
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 4:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22105
Location: Chicago
You need to remove the aluminum and put a light hone on the cylinder before you can make a good assessment of the cylinders condition, is their damage to the bottom of the piston that matches the damage found on the cases?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 4:52 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
yes just a small nick on the skirt. didn't notice it on the skirt till I saw these..


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 3:51 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Took the cylinder and dropped it off @ ATV Racing... They will one it to see if it needs rebored???


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 12:42 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
ordered some parts from service honda but was unable to get the rubber boot gasket (14133-430-000) and an exhaust flange gasket (18291-961-000) Any clues to where these might be available at???
Thanks!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:31 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
OK finally got caught up with things and am ready to get the ody up and running... Ordered a Hillside Honda water cooled head with the studs and nuts that are now available. Re-Ordered my gaskets and carb boot from service honda. I am having everything sent to ATV racing since they have the jug all bored out and ready. This will save me from having to buy alot of tools, at least put them off till later.
I have a pair of Works 300 ex shocks I am going to sent to Works and see if they can make them work for the front shocks. Then I will get a pair of new ones for the rear.
Still am looking for a fan, and radiator. The goldwing rads have the fan, but I have yet to see a good enough picture to see if they have a thermostat switch for the fan yet. I have a radiator I could use with this set up, but then would have to get the water pump... anyone know what quad has a radiator set up like this???
Sure would like to find a pair of good beadlock rims front and back. Maybe a very good set of stock rims I could powdercoat white. I have several sets of tires, just one good set of rims...
Thanks for the Help...


P.S. I might be in the market for a good Pilot in a few weeks if all works out... If anyone knows of one for sale keep me in mind.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:38 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 12:06 pm
Posts: 1412
Location: San Diego
You don't need the water pump with the goldwing setup, mine works great!

They don't have a built in switch though, at least the older mid '80's don't.

http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=2526


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