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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:47 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Do you use the fan? does it wear a battery down??? That is my biggest concern with the fan running all day???


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:51 pm 
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Location: San Diego
It's still tied into the lighting circuit, but it's been run for two hours straight without an issue.

The plan is to put a 170 thermo switch in the bottom line.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 11:14 pm 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Ody_Stable wrote:
It's still tied into the lighting circuit, but it's been run for two hours straight without an issue.

The plan is to put a 170 thermo switch is the bottom line.


I need a link for one of these kits I have heard of something you can put on a hose to read the temp without tapping into the radiator... Where would I find one???


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 11:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 12:06 pm
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Location: San Diego
Put one of these into a brass tee fitting connected to the head with a nipple.

http://store.gaugemagazine.com/index.as ... rodID=1925

Make sure the fitting is grounded and run the output to the fan's ground wire.

A two terminal switch would be better, but I haven't found a reasonably priced one yet.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 11:40 pm 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
that will be easier than tapping into the radiator!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 11:47 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 12:06 pm
Posts: 1412
Location: San Diego
Search for these part numbers on eBay, I just picked one up for $12.95.

AC / DELCO / GM 213-80
AC / DELCO / GM 25036135
AC / DELCO / GM 25037346
AC / DELCO / GM 8993115
AC / DELCO / GM 8993146
AC / DELCO / GM 8993164
AC / DELCO / GM D1885
MOTORCRAFT SWG2053

This one's an even better deal:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cooling- ... dZViewItem

Oh, I got the other part numbers by cross referencing the Zirgo part number, so they are basically the same switch.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 2:19 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BUDDY-CL ... dZViewItem


Would something like this work??? and if so what size would it be, 30mm or 38mm? I don't have a radiator in hand to measure???


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 2:32 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 12:06 pm
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Location: San Diego
You want less than 25mm (your hose will be 3/4"-1"), but this looks like a gauge sensor unit not a switch.

You should be able to get a threaded brass tee fitting at you local home depot or lowes that would work just fine.

My plan is to use one of those with a very short nipple going to the head, hose out the other end to the radiator and the switch in the tee, it should have a good ground that way to.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 3:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22133
Location: Chicago
38mm is 1.496" or about 1-1/2 "

http://www.worldwidemetric.com/metcal.htm


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 5:34 pm 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I wonder if you could put another T fitting on the other end and install a temp gauge???


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 11:33 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... &rd=1&rd=1

Needs a little cleaning for cosmetics... for 20.50 can't beat it????

Got this too!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cooling- ... dZViewItem

Ody Stable hurry up and get yours fixed up so I can copy you!!! LOL


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 11:46 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Turbotexas wrote:

Got this too!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cooling-Level-Temp-SENSOR-Astro-Van-CORVETTE-1990-95_W0QQitemZ220047432648QQihZ012QQcategoryZ46096QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

Ody Stable hurry up and get yours fixed up so I can copy you!!! LOL


The more I look at this the more I think it is just a gauge sensor to plug into a water temp gauge???
I think the fan switch should have two prongs to plug into to interupt the circuit when the fan needs to come off???
I have a water temp gauge I bought for my chinese cart, I can salvage and install on the ody...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 12:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 02, 2005 3:59 pm
Posts: 129
Location: Fleetwood,Pa
On a couple of the Toyota's I have owned they used single wire fan switches.Not sure how they worked,they were mounted in the radiators which were rubber mounted so not a good ground???
Sorry if this adds any confusion
Shubey


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 3:54 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 12:06 pm
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Location: San Diego
The single prong switch gives you a ground when the temp gets to 180.

As long as what it's threaded into is grounded........

Wire the hot to the fan without a switch and run the fan's ground wire to the sensor.

That's why I'm going to be connecting the brass tee fitting to the head with a nipple which will ground the tee fitting.

I was going to bid on the radiator/fan for one of the 250's, but decided against it for now.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:25 am 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Ody_Stable wrote:
The single prong switch gives you a ground when the temp gets to 180.

As long as what it's threaded into is grounded........

Wire the hot to the fan without a switch and run the fan's ground wire to the sensor.

That's why I'm going to be connecting the brass tee fitting to the head with a nipple which will ground the tee fitting.

I was going to bid on the radiator/fan for one of the 250's, but decided against it for now.



I bid on a few of them, but no more than 15.00... finally won one, and total WITH shipping is 20.50. Some of these are asking 50.00 and 21.00 for shipping???
I am at my Mom and Dads house on a "vacation" cause my dad had testicle surgury today. just goofing off and keeping Mom occupied. Hard to do as they are 76 years old!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 8:39 am 
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make sure the fan doesnt draw more amps then the wire etc, most of the time fans are run with a relay....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 10:47 am 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
bugpac wrote:
make sure the fan doesnt draw more amps then the wire etc, most of the time fans are run with a relay....


???
Do I need to put a fuse in line?
I was thinking of going straight off the battery, that way if I turned the key off to talk or whatever, it would still cool to the temp on the sensor...
I am thinking the hot goes to one plug on the fan, and the ground is interupted with the switch...then to the other plug???


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 4:13 pm 
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Posts: 1412
Location: San Diego
The automotive fans are much larger and are drawing 10-15 amps.

Most all of the motorcycle fans draw less than 2-3 amps, so a 5 to 7.5 amp fuse in the hot lead would be a good idea. Use at least 18 gauge wire, I would use 16, the leads coming out of the fan may be 18-20 though.

I am also going to run straight off the battery for the same reason.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 7:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 04, 2006 10:36 pm
Posts: 251
dunno about the mc fans, i know the gsxr 600 fan runs off a relay, but a relay hoks to the battery yes, then the temp switch turns on the relay, and you cold also rn a manula switch if you like to activate the same relay, 2 switches one circuit...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 2:26 am 
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Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
bugpac wrote:
dunno about the mc fans, i know the gsxr 600 fan runs off a relay, but a relay hoks to the battery yes, then the temp switch turns on the relay, and you cold also rn a manula switch if you like to activate the same relay, 2 switches one circuit...


What is a manula???

Maybe manual, now that I look at it some more... I have been doing crossward puzzles with Dad to pass the time!!!LOL


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 6:09 pm 
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lmao, as hoser would say, i am a non spell check mutt!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 11:17 pm 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
bugpac wrote:
lmao, as hoser would say, i am a non spell check mutt!!!


I am just so proud of myself for figureing it out!!! LOL


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 Post subject: Hillside honda head
PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 3:30 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I made it home this evening with my new hillside honda head installed on my 350 Engine!!! I will be going elbows and arsholes over the weekend putting it back in!!! I need to go to autoparts store for fittings, hose and coolant!!! I am stoked!!! I will finally be able to ride with out fretting over blowinga piston!!!
Next on the wish list!!! Works Shocks!!!
I will try to remember to take some pictures, but will at least get some final install shots!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 12:50 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 12:06 pm
Posts: 1412
Location: San Diego
Blowing a piston or seizing won't be prevented by the water cooled head or even a water cooled head and cylinder.

Proper jetting and elimination of all leaks is the only thing that will prevent that.

The water cooled head will just give you a longer run on the top end before it needs to be freshened up.

I know you probably know that, but I've seen a lot of people hit these sites, see the heads others are using and they immediately think they're a solution to their constant rebuilding, holed pistons, etc.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 11:08 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
You are correct, as you can see it was late and I was excited!!! My Bad...
You are right the watercooled head will not prevent a sieze... but maybe prolong the life of the top end...
I did get the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) stabbed today, it was a biotch by myself to do... always one or another of the bushings would fall out or hang up... I spent most of the morning hunting brass fittings for the plumbing, went to honda to get oil, purple antifreeze stuff... a few loose nuts etc...
Tonite I am trying to switch out carb parts... Several months ago I bought a cherry stock pilot carb 34mm instead of the 32mm venturie and I am hoping I can keep the same jet sizes in and install my dial a jet and ride... I am not sure if this will work but it is a starting point... I am hoping to have the thing up and running by Tuesday, I am picking up a load that goes to Long Beach in the morning, it won't deliver till Thursday. then I will shag up to Dumont and meet the infamous Hoser and Nuke'em!!! I also have side panels I need to install...


Ody_Stable wrote:
Blowing a piston or seizing won't be prevented by the water cooled head or even a water cooled head and cylinder.

Proper jetting and elimination of all leaks is the only thing that will prevent that.

The water cooled head will just give you a longer run on the top end before it needs to be freshened up.

I know you probably know that, but I've seen a lot of people hit these sites, see the heads others are using and they immediately think they're a solution to their constant rebuilding, holed pistons, etc.


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