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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 1:07 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Hoodlum wrote ".........I also noticed in the 2 pics that the knuckle adapter in one of the pics seems to be sitting high above the original tierod mount on the spindle, while the other seems to be correct....Not sure what is up there..... "

That is to make the tie rod mounting points level... I assume... Go and look at your 350's front spindles, they are different from L to R side due to the Marvelous engineering crew at Honda... I believe it keep their tierod lined up... I don't know but I trust them as they spent years on R&D... I Don't trust Steve as far as I can throw him!!! I only Hope the next customer who buy's one of these has a better set of instructions... Of course with Slick advertising skills who needs customer service!!!


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 Post subject: Re: LT
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 1:21 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
rooky wrote:
color=red]Even if it's close to locking at full droop, it will be o.k. at ride height...If you have your wheels turned all the way while the suspension is at full droop while riding, you will have more to worry about than your wheel rubbing your tierod a little.....[/color]

Hoodlum


Please go look at some of my videos of where I ride... particuarly in Barstow... These are not groomed off road parks you pay to play in... this is off road paridise as far as I am concerned!!! So yea I do see me having my wheels in a hard turn and the ground falling out from under me in one corner... they are called whoops... and they are everywhere in the desert... I am not so much worried of my wheel rubbing my tierod as I am worried about my wheel locking up in full turn when I need to go straight to avoid falling into a ravine or gully...


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 Post subject: Re: LT
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 1:25 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
rooky wrote:
If you have the stock wheels, you need to use them to set the balljoint positions......If they clear, the aluminum ones will as well......
I screwed my bottom balljoints in all the way, and my uppers have about 3 threads showing outside the locknut.....Raise the machine so that the suspension is at full droop, then turn the wheels until the rim almost touches the tierod....Set the inner drag links so that the locknut on the outside end of the drag link hits the big heim, stopping your steering at that point......If the drag links are too long to achieve this, screw the balljoints out a couple of turns, but not too far......I wouldn't want more than 3 threads past the locknut on the lower.........I had to cut my drag links off, but the steering flag on the pilot is different...Side x side opposed to stacked......Even if it's close to locking at full droop, it will be o.k. at ride height...If you have your wheels turned all the way while the suspension is at full droop while riding, you will have more to worry about than your wheel rubbing your tierod a little.....
Hoodlum


I did all this... this is how I discovered the drag links chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts sent me were the wrong size...8" instead of 7" and this is where I showed in this thread the wear on the soft metal links from 10 minutes MAX riding at my house, then being loaded up on the trailer to load out to Oregon!!!


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 Post subject: LT
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 3:06 pm 
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 Post subject: Re: LT
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:47 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
rooky wrote:
As for the different angle of the bolts, you showed me two pics of the right side...One from the front and one from the rear view.....Hoodlum


Stupid me I can't even get the pictures right...


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File comment: left front from the rear... notice how a-arm is raked and barn is in view...
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File comment: this would be the right side looking to the back... as evident by the rear fender...
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File comment: of course this is the right... big R STAMPED ON IT...viewed from the rear... now do you see the diference in the angle??? Or do I need to take more better pictures???
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 7:35 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Here are the improvements chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts made on my kit, at least...
I shouldn't be wasting my time snapping pictures to defend liewire??? Why has this caused me so damn much aggravation??? According to Hoodlum, I will now have to re-install this cotton-pickin' kit once more for a total of three times??? At this rate it will end up rusting into pieces before I get it fitted up right so I can get it powder-coated... I have more that 40 hours on re-doing this thing... Most mechanics charge $80.00 per hour labor rates... Of course I am no Mechanic, but I don't work for free when I drive my truck... I charge $150.00 per hour in Detention when I am detained by a customer... up to 10 hours a day...
Go buy a lone star long travel kit for a 400ex and see if you have this much work to do??? You get a bolt a go deal there, and might have to adjust your shocks...
Where are the masses that are satisfied customers???

hoser wrote:
Hey whats the muffler clamps for?

You don't want to use clamps on the frame like that they create STRESS RISERS BIG TIME you do understand how a muffler clamp works don't you, the muffler system is a tube in a tube it deforms the 2 tubes so they lock together that clamp by design is design to BEND the tube you attach it to.

Do you have pics of what its holding?

You need to buy some tubing that has a inside diameter the same as your tube in the pics outside diameter then cut it in half and wrap it around the tube, I will take pics of the one I made for my Pilot tonight, your current setup would never pass any official tech inspection because of the reasons I listed above.


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 Post subject: Bolt angle
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 7:36 pm 
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Hoodlum


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 Post subject: Re: LT
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 7:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22104
Location: Chicago
I knew this would turn into another pissing match , that's why I have waited so long about posting....
Hoser,the next time you accuse me of advertising for him, or posting because he wanted me too, then Turbo can attribute the lack of help he will get from me to you..


Their is your typical Darkside crapola in its purest form BLAME HOSER,


I didnt create this problem LIEwire did I didnt generate all the LIES he told STOP trying to blame me for his stupidity.

I modified my Pilot front and rear suspension SEVEN YEARS AGO and documented it on my site, I don't beat myself to death.


You accused yourself of advertising for the mutt many times now your trying to blame me, Priceless, LIEwire tells Turbo to leave threads showing and you blame Turbo, Priceless.


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 Post subject: Re: LT
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 8:01 pm 
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Posts: 22104
Location: Chicago
rooky wrote:
Page 4 images 2005&2006.....The big silver nut between the tie rod/knuckle adapter connection....
Take it out, didn't mention cutting anything......Just take the outer end loose,remove the nut, and screw the heim back into the adapter.....Lets the outer end of the tie rod drop lower, changing bumpsteer charachteristics....This will fix your tow change problems.........I also noticed in the 2 pics that the knuckle adapter in one of the pics seems to be sitting high above the original tierod mount on the spindle, while the other seems to be correct....Not sure what is up there.....
I know you are running stock tires, but that's not the issue...Read carefully....STOCK WHEELS!!!!! NOT TIRES!!!!! You have aluminum wheels on it in the pics......If you have the stock wheels, you need to use them to set the balljoint positions......If they clear, the aluminum ones will as well......
I screwed my bottom balljoints in all the way, and my uppers have about 3 threads showing outside the locknut.....Raise the machine so that the suspension is at full droop, then turn the wheels until the rim almost touches the tierod....Set the inner drag links so that the locknut on the outside end of the drag link hits the big heim, stopping your steering at that point......If the drag links are too long to achieve this, screw the balljoints out a couple of turns, but not too far......I wouldn't want more than 3 threads past the locknut on the lower.........I had to cut my drag links off, but the steering flag on the pilot is different...Side x side opposed to stacked......Even if it's close to locking at full droop, it will be o.k. at ride height...If you have your wheels turned all the way while the suspension is at full droop while riding, you will have more to worry about than your wheel rubbing your tierod a little.....
Don't forget to take that nut off the tie rod heim before doing this...Raising that outer end that much will decrease your clearance between the rim and tie rod significantly,decreasing your turning capabilities, and not allowing the drag links to stop the steering, making them seem too long.........Make sure you have tried all adjustments before resorting to cutting anything off.......I only had to take an inch off of mine, which is about the difference the steering flag on the pilot made.....Shouldn't be an issue with the oddy.......
I will tell you that it took me1 hour to bolt everything on, and 2 late nights to get everything adjusted out on mine....LOTS of trial and error,but when it is right, it all falls into place like a puzzle.......
Hoodlum


Page 4 images 2005&2006.....The big silver nut between the tie rod/knuckle adapter connection....
Take it out, didn't mention cutting anything......Just take the outer end loose,remove the nut, and screw the heim back into the adapter.....Lets the outer end of the tie rod drop lower, changing bumpsteer charachteristics....This will fix your tow change problems.........


Take the jam nut out and discard it? that's just plain stupid! I just looked at every Pilot Odyssey and quad I own they ALL have jam nuts on the tie rods, you know why I bet you don't or you would have never removed it! What are you going to do when the hiem moves at the threads and wears them out then the threads pull out, seen this happen on a FL250 about 15 years ago when the owner lost the jam nut.

I say if you need the space the nut consumes to make the adjustment proper then their is a design flaw.

Sounds like you had to do a bunch of trial and error and modifications to make yours work so much for "bolt on", how come you have to do all the thinking, how come LIEwire had NOT worked out all these problems before selling them to you?


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 Post subject: Re: LT
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 8:09 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22104
Location: Chicago
rooky wrote:
My adapters had the lip as well.....I took a die grinder and removed a little material to allow the bolt to pass on through....It will fix your tow out problem at full compression......If you notice in the pic where it is strapped down at full compression, your tie rods have started going above horizontal...When this happens, they get shorter and tow the wheels out......Dropping them brings them back closer to horizontal.....
I understand now why the adapters are at a different level...It is due to the tierods being stacked opposed to side x side.......The tierod that is hooked to the adapter that has the spacer under it should go on first, with the other side on second...The spacer just compensates for the difference in height caused by the stacking......
As for the different angle of the bolts, you showed me two pics of the right side...One from the front and one from the rear view.....With the tierod mounted up high due to the nut under it, I could see where it could cause enough leverage against the plate to bend it.....Especially if it lands hard......The nut would theoretically double the forces put on the adapter due to the leverage......Same principal as the long stem exposed on the ball joint.....Leverage works just as much against you as it does for you when you need it.....The egyptians even used it to build the pyramids,moving those big a@* rocks, and the system uses it to make the steering easy, but it can tear some crap up if you have it where it's not wanted.....
If it is bent, straighten it back out......You might want to consider welding some gussets on there to help strengthen it....Once metal bends, it looses alot of strength.......If it is not bent, make sure the original tierod mounting point on the spindle is not bent....This could very well be the spot that I was told was bent...If it is, it could cause the adapter to lean...It could also be the other side, causing the adapter there to look more vertical.....Compare the angles of the adapter sleeve the rods thread into to each other and see if they are the same......After you get the nuts out from under the rod, compress the suspension and watch your outer tierod heims, and see which one reaches it's angle limits first, then check for the same at full droop......The one that goes the entire travel range without binding is the side that has the right angle on the adapter....The side that doesn't is either the bent adapter or spindle....Then again, it may supposed to be different angles to compensate for the difference in tierod height....I would say that if both heims doesn't bind anywhere in the suspension travel, it won't matter...Only the height of the tierod will effect yout bumpsteer, not the angle of the outer heim stem.....
I also noticed in one of the pics that your lower tierod heim is egged......This is a result of the rod being too high, and being at too much of an angle during compression, causing it to reach it's limits before the suspension compresses....Not sure that would have put enough strain on the adapter to bend it or not, but it's very possible.....I would consider replacing that heim.....It could leave you stranded or worse if it fails....You should be able to wiggle the heims at both full droop and full compression to insure there is no binding......
Hoodlum


More proof from an actual owner the kit is plague with problems, what exactly has LIEwire said about these problems, has he made updates and notified all the owners of the kits he has sold of the updates?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 10:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5508
Location: New Jersey
SO, when I originaly posted on this topic many years ago-and got blackballed for it-I guess you never viewed the threads ROOKY?Now the kit needs mods?Why did it take Turbo's bashing(almost slanderous actions by some IMO) for someone to admit it??
Turbo, if you powdercoat anything on the kit, especailly the front frame bar clamps, they will not fit at all.I did it, I can post pics-I had to cut them to get them to fit on the front bar.I had posted some time back the lock washer mechanism that Liewire had devolped for my kit back then didnt do shit-still doesnt to this day-crappy design IMO.
I couldnt even get some of the castle nuts to go far enough on the lower ball joints to expose the threads on my first kit.Posted it then, everybody told me I was a HOSERITE-seems I was correct WITH MANY OF MY STATEMENTS HUH?-the kit is not and never will be bolt on, the public has been taken for a ride-wheres the other 50+ owners????Only 3 (turbo, rooky and myself) have issues?
At least ROOKY has stepped up here and acknowledged the kit has flaws-the darkside will spin it as poppycock-Turbo got bashed and bruised by everybody associated with the money making spin machine for trying to help people understand this kits flaws, design woes, inefficent angles,etc for no good reason.Liewire should apologize to him and others and admit the kit needs work, mabye try to get involved on a forum on the do's and don't of it-OPPS like do not buy it!!!!!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 11:25 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
A man shouldn't have to spend $2700.00 and fight tooth and nail to get help to install what should be a bolt on (as advertised) long travel kit...
Search the atv forums and you will never see this kinda bull crap... Just because at this point in time Steve is the only one selling this stuff for a 350 he can and does get away with it... HOW SAD... The Funny thing all he did was copy a pilot to build the sub frame, and then mimic the hi-performance ATV long travel kit like that was on the Wheelman project pilot that I have seen in person in MASS... OH I better be quite, this is when Steve will Blame Hoser for stealing donated parts for the wheelman project... I regress...
Any way Hoodlum for all the grief you are receiving please accept my apologies... I have done a ton of reading of the kiowa board and have seen how this goes way back between these Hoserites over here on this board... But in all the reading I haven't seen a bit of selfishness from these Hoserites... They only really give a darn that this doesn't happen to the next newbie that comes along... I am hopeful that with the grinding and re adjusting and replacing of the ball joints I might be as happy with this kit as you are... But if this was an ATV and there were a dozen companies to chose from I believe Steve and Ruby would be on a street corner with Sign that reads "It's All Hoser's Fault" begging for change... You just shouldn't treat people the way I have been treated my many (not you) on these boards!!! It's Funny I see it in Trucking also, the anonymity of a keyboard or a C.B. Radio makes a man 10 foot tall and bullet proof... In my youngers years I beat many a 10 footer back down to 5'5" and put him back in his place...
IT IS NOT OK TO TREAT PEOPLE LIKE SH!^...


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 6:37 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22104
Location: Chicago
Mudbogger wrote:
SO, when I originaly posted on this topic many years ago-and got blackballed for it-I guess you never viewed the threads ROOKY?Now the kit needs mods?Why did it take Turbo's bashing(almost slanderous actions by some IMO) for someone to admit it??
Turbo, if you powdercoat anything on the kit, especailly the front frame bar clamps, they will not fit at all.I did it, I can post pics-I had to cut them to get them to fit on the front bar.I had posted some time back the lock washer mechanism that Liewire had devolped for my kit back then didnt do shit-still doesnt to this day-crappy design IMO.
I couldnt even get some of the castle nuts to go far enough on the lower ball joints to expose the threads on my first kit.Posted it then, everybody told me I was a HOSERITE-seems I was correct WITH MANY OF MY STATEMENTS HUH?-the kit is not and never will be bolt on, the public has been taken for a ride-wheres the other 50+ owners????Only 3 (turbo, rooky and myself) have issues?
At least ROOKY has stepped up here and acknowledged the kit has flaws-the darkside will spin it as poppycock-Turbo got bashed and bruised by everybody associated with the money making spin machine for trying to help people understand this kits flaws, design woes, inefficent angles,etc for no good reason.Liewire should apologize to him and others and admit the kit needs work, mabye try to get involved on a forum on the do's and don't of it-OPPS like do not buy it!!!!!


Now you know exactly why I left Pilot-Odyssey.com (site I design and built from the ground up NOT kiowa or the darkside) to them mutts, you have summed it up very well, I am a firm believer that silence is consent, if you don't say anything then you ACCEPT what you bought as a good product, then when others with the same beliefs as myself speak out they are beat down by the darkside until they shut up, one has come here to tell Turbo to shut up (nice try) I doubt he will make that mistake again I think he now understands, if not he needs to learn by going back and rereading everything associated with LIEwires front suspension and other products that are plague with problems so he can fully understand, its too bad SO MANY post on my old site that spelled out PROBLEMS GENERATED by the darkside have been deleted, its too bad so many IMPORTANT safety issues have been sugar coated to the point problems and issues with products are never properly fixed, a great example is this POS bolt on kit, another prime example is BigTom's ATVR kit.

People ask me why members of the darkside are NOT allowed here, my best answer and example I can give is look at TurboTexas post on my old site asking for help with his kit, the first responders were the darkside and part of the Michigan mafia that hang with the LIEwire, what is the first thing they did, they beat him down trying to get him to shut up and go away, then they fired up the LIEwire spin machine to make everything all TurboTexas fault, now they bitch and cry and blame me because we keep pointing out the error in their ways so new unsuspecting Pilot Odyssey owners that are looking for open and honest dialong, help and information about Pilots and Odysseys can get GREAT products and services that the darkside want to be's can NOT offer because of their dishonesty or ignorance.

I guess people have to ask themselfs if they really want to be assioated with these types of people that seem friendly and nice, they meet on a few ride trips and think they are the nicest and most helpful people their is, been their done that, know I know better I hope others don't have to learn as I did, some examples are the witty group that went to Coal Creek and watched ludedude blow up his Pilot THREE TIMES and install NOT ONE but TWO top ends he installed whilst at Coal Creek, not one of them "Tech Advisor" had a clue why his Engine kept blowing up yet daily dole out tech info to others, this is deliberate behavior its NO ACCIDENT , another example is Ludedudes sale of that POS Engine on ebay what a great service he has provided to the Pilot Odyssey owners by serving up BAD info and PURE JUNK, their are many more great examples I could list, I could write a book on all the stupid and bad advice I have seen given since I departed my old site to get away from these seemly well meaning group of dishonest morons but if you cant read about the TurboTexas front suspension saga and the Ludedue Ebay Engine and understand then their is no use in me going any further and I wish you good luck because these are the same type warning signs that come with things like CANCER that people don't want to see then end up asking themselfs how then ended up in that situation, how could this happen to me.

I still hold hope some day the darkside will see the light and understand its no harder to do the right thing and will start doing so, I am real sure they will NOT do it without some pressure from the people around them simply because again silence is consent and us few lone wolfs who do speak out make very little impact on them, I hope Ludedude has turned a corner in his life I think after his ebay Engine fiasco he has seen the light I hope some day he can turn things around and learn from his mistakes and problems he has generated.

TurboTexas I hope you can I can meet up soon so we can work out your suspension problems once and for all, I am sorry I cant help you by looking at your pictures but I am sure you now understand the complexity of of a suspension system cant be diagnose from the key board I will have to lay hands on your setup to be of any real help, I hope now rooky has come forward to give you info will help get you on the right track I am not sure why he has not come forward sooner I can only assume based on his past behavior he has enjoyed seeing you suffer, I am sure he will continue enjoy himself on the darkside and I don't see his post here as any sort of turning point.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 6:47 am 
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Posts: 22104
Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
A man shouldn't have to spend $2700.00 and fight tooth and nail to get help to install what should be a bolt on (as advertised) long travel kit...
Search the atv forums and you will never see this kinda bull crap... Just because at this point in time Steve is the only one selling this stuff for a 350 he can and does get away with it... HOW SAD... The Funny thing all he did was copy a pilot to build the sub frame, and then mimic the hi-performance ATV long travel kit like that was on the Wheelman project pilot that I have seen in person in MASS... OH I better be quite, this is when Steve will Blame Hoser for stealing donated parts for the wheelman project... I regress...
Any way Hoodlum for all the grief you are receiving please accept my apologies... I have done a ton of reading of the kiowa board and have seen how this goes way back between these Hoserites over here on this board... But in all the reading I haven't seen a bit of selfishness from these Hoserites... They only really give a darn that this doesn't happen to the next newbie that comes along... I am hopeful that with the grinding and re adjusting and replacing of the ball joints I might be as happy with this kit as you are... But if this was an ATV and there were a dozen companies to chose from I believe Steve and Ruby would be on a street corner with Sign that reads "It's All Hoser's Fault" begging for change... You just shouldn't treat people the way I have been treated my many (not you) on these boards!!! It's Funny I see it in Trucking also, the anonymity of a keyboard or a C.B. Radio makes a man 10 foot tall and bullet proof... In my youngers years I beat many a 10 footer back down to 5'5" and put him back in his place...
IT IS NOT OK TO TREAT PEOPLE LIKE SH!^...



Steve spends more time running from problems he created than its takes to solve problems he created, he has no desire to make his product better because in his mind its perfect, history has proved he don't accept his failures very well (many remember this http://pilotodyssey.com/shocking.mpg saga all to well) he needs to man up and listen because Steve loses money in future sales because he ignores problems he has generated.

I have pointed this out before, you gave Steve the perfect time and place in his life to make a change for the better that would make him better and more profitable and give us better products in return he sent out his henchmen to attack you ((I don't have the link to the thread on my old site where they attacked you you need to provide this link for others to read)) this shows you what he really is and the power of the darkside (power of stupidity), now they all wine and cry about the bad decisions they have made.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 8:38 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Well I got my carb mostly done so I had a chance to try out the advise Hoodlum/rooky threw at me... I removed the tierod ends, and ground down (didn't want to) plate that restricted the ends from going deeper... here are some pic's...


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 8:45 pm 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Just a few more pic's...
It does turn easier now... I have only driven around the yard here at the house so I couldn't say one way or another if any better... I guess some one needs to post how you can measure the bump-steer. Something we all should know...
I am waiting for chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts motorsports.com to send me replacement ball joints... I see no reason why I should fork out another $50.00 when it is documented so well here that I did follow his directions...


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 8:53 pm 
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Location: Chicago
I thought they made a plate or washer thingie that goes on top of the hiem so if the hiem ever pops out of its socket it cant pop all the way off so your steering would just be real loose you would not lose all control of your steering?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 8:59 pm 
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Here they are


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:00 pm 
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Here is a pic of the muffler clamp replacement I was talking about this will distribute the load and not damage the tube its attached to.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:16 pm 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
hoser wrote:
Here they are


I can only assume these would cost extra... I asked for my a-arm kit NOT to be powdercoated but Someone e-mailed me some Questions about this kit and he stated that chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts no longer includes the Powdercoated finish as part of the purchase price... I guess the Corporate office is cuting back on expenditures like these to make more money for the CEO... Typical safety features are neglected for profit... I Love this Sport!!!


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 Post subject: Re: LT
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 11:32 pm 
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[quote


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 Post subject: Re: LT
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 12:01 am 
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[quote


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 Post subject: Re: LT
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 12:19 am 
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hoser wrote:
rooky wrote:
My adapters had the lip as well.....I took a die grinder and removed a little material to allow the bolt to pass on through....It will fix your tow out problem at full compression......If you notice in the pic where it is strapped down at full compression, your tie rods have started going above horizontal...When this happens, they get shorter and tow the wheels out......Dropping them brings them back closer to horizontal.....
I understand now why the adapters are at a different level...It is due to the tierods being stacked opposed to side x side.......The tierod that is hooked to the adapter that has the spacer under it should go on first, with the other side on second...The spacer just compensates for the difference in height caused by the stacking......
As for the different angle of the bolts, you showed me two pics of the right side...One from the front and one from the rear view.....With the tierod mounted up high due to the nut under it, I could see where it could cause enough leverage against the plate to bend it.....Especially if it lands hard......The nut would theoretically double the forces put on the adapter due to the leverage......Same principal as the long stem exposed on the ball joint.....Leverage works just as much against you as it does for you when you need it.....The egyptians even used it to build the pyramids,moving those big a@* rocks, and the system uses it to make the steering easy, but it can tear some crap up if you have it where it's not wanted.....
If it is bent, straighten it back out......You might want to consider welding some gussets on there to help strengthen it....Once metal bends, it looses alot of strength.......If it is not bent, make sure the original tierod mounting point on the spindle is not bent....This could very well be the spot that I was told was bent...If it is, it could cause the adapter to lean...It could also be the other side, causing the adapter there to look more vertical.....Compare the angles of the adapter sleeve the rods thread into to each other and see if they are the same......After you get the nuts out from under the rod, compress the suspension and watch your outer tierod heims, and see which one reaches it's angle limits first, then check for the same at full droop......The one that goes the entire travel range without binding is the side that has the right angle on the adapter....The side that doesn't is either the bent adapter or spindle....Then again, it may supposed to be different angles to compensate for the difference in tierod height....I would say that if both heims doesn't bind anywhere in the suspension travel, it won't matter...Only the height of the tierod will effect yout bumpsteer, not the angle of the outer heim stem.....
I also noticed in one of the pics that your lower tierod heim is egged......This is a result of the rod being too high, and being at too much of an angle during compression, causing it to reach it's limits before the suspension compresses....Not sure that would have put enough strain on the adapter to bend it or not, but it's very possible.....I would consider replacing that heim.....It could leave you stranded or worse if it fails....You should be able to wiggle the heims at both full droop and full compression to insure there is no binding......
Hoodlum


More proof from an actual owner the kit is plague with problems, what exactly has LIEwire said about these problems, has he made updates and notified all the owners of the kits he has sold of the updates?



What problems are you referring too here hoser? The only problems in this thread were caused by either a little mis-alignment of a nut and a hole before welding which isn't a design flaw as much as a welders error,and problems associated with Turbo putting a nut where it didn't belong......


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 Post subject: LT
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 12:25 am 
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[quote


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 5:28 am 
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"Rooky please let me get a drink here and I'll answer your attack-LMAO.


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