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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 5:28 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5540
Location: New Jersey
Rooky states
"Once again, I have admitted to no flaws in the kit......All the errors I have talked about were a result of assemble errors.....Not familiar with the sub frame on the oddy, just the pilot......
Actually, the kit is the best bang for the buck I have spent on my pilot yet......Actually considering putting one on one of the ones I got from Toyman...."

Rooky -the kit is advertised as "bolt on" plain and simple, it sounds to me you have been brainwashed by others, the terms and word associations you make are commonly made by others from that profit board (hosers old page)I have seen,I posted about a 350 kit from day 1-you have stated in threads here you have found flaws, the grinding, assembly errors are not a part of that ???.Why havent you helped prior, I posted years ago, you never said a word???why not-you sure seem to have all the answers, why isnt Steve answering them?
I see you are blaming Hoser for Turbos issues, what a spin master you are.I have no doubt your views are fueled by others.You continually post the same "helpful"tips that are rebutted by others that have tested and rode there odys with AND you blame Hoser-HMMM SOUNDS FAMILIAR.DO NOT GET ME INVOVLED IN YOUR CHESS GAMES PLEASE.
As far as the Pilot front end, it is the gosh darn same arms, etc for the 350-I posted that as well too, I guess you didnt get to see that posting as well, mabye you can shed light on that statement? the Pilot kit IMO is unused/unsold arms from the 350 kits, I BETYA in my opinion the blem kits as he so states that were produced(I have seen posts that the designer/fab guru has Made stating that there was indeed some kits made and sold that where blems, didnt meet specs, I have seen as well my brother in laws kit was/is 1 of these), got any answers for me on that ROOKY?
WHAT EVER HAPPENED TO YOUR PILOT motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))???
Remember that-when you bashed Randy all over the place for the motor-havent heard a peep out of you on that 1-I guess you havent an answer, just blame for it correct?
Blem kits Rooky that's right blems, mabye Turbos is a blem mabye just mabye you got the pick of the litter as they say I guess, you haven't found issues at all but you have admitted here to breaking tie rods, grinding and assembly issues,the gosh darm thing is as much as a 350 for crying out loud, there may be some who work hard for there dough, you have no problem advertising for the guy for free huh?I cant get a straight line on you for nothing here, your issues are to blame Hoser like your little Michigan mafia fellows tell you to do-every single time an issues comes up involving that guy ity is always Hosers fault-blame me too then, I was the first to buy the shit, first to ask questions on it, and the first to be blackballed, why didnt you help me them ROOKY???
You can honestly say those front subframe mounts are a quality item???, I can go to any Vocational school and get better welding, better fabbing done, they are tubing that's thin walled(too thin), cut, then a bolt spot welded to them-and just 2 of them for the whole front end, that good??that is sufficent for long jumps, suspension damping?I question your skills, I have none admittedly-whats yours?, please take a pic and show everyone these mounts, mabye the other 48 or so people will chime in here about them.I can go on and on, the kit is poor desgined, I bought 1 and that's my fault, I admit wrongdoing.
Perhaps you can instruct me on how to assemble-adjust and tweak the kit on my brother in laws, because to date he still cannot get it to toe in right, the tie rods that slide though the hiems have to be taken out sanded and coated for operation or the dam things will bind-each and everytime he rides it, that's good, you never have had these issues??PLEASE.Your buddy/advisor has stated the kit my brother in law purcahsed was a blem that's why it will never be right-what a spin,hopefully you'll come to see you got a Blem too like he did, I pray you do not get hurt in the process of this.Funny he never told us or the vendor that sold it to us it was a "blem" until posts about it's performance, seems you do the same as him.LMAO.
Regards Mudbogger.[/quote]


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 Post subject: Re: LT
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 6:55 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22133
Location: Chicago
rooky wrote:
hoser wrote:
rooky wrote:
My adapters had the lip as well.....I took a die grinder and removed a little material to allow the bolt to pass on through....It will fix your tow out problem at full compression......If you notice in the pic where it is strapped down at full compression, your tie rods have started going above horizontal...When this happens, they get shorter and tow the wheels out......Dropping them brings them back closer to horizontal.....
I understand now why the adapters are at a different level...It is due to the tierods being stacked opposed to side x side.......The tierod that is hooked to the adapter that has the spacer under it should go on first, with the other side on second...The spacer just compensates for the difference in height caused by the stacking......
As for the different angle of the bolts, you showed me two pics of the right side...One from the front and one from the rear view.....With the tierod mounted up high due to the nut under it, I could see where it could cause enough leverage against the plate to bend it.....Especially if it lands hard......The nut would theoretically double the forces put on the adapter due to the leverage......Same principal as the long stem exposed on the ball joint.....Leverage works just as much against you as it does for you when you need it.....The egyptians even used it to build the pyramids,moving those big a@* rocks, and the system uses it to make the steering easy, but it can tear some crap up if you have it where it's not wanted.....
If it is bent, straighten it back out......You might want to consider welding some gussets on there to help strengthen it....Once metal bends, it looses alot of strength.......If it is not bent, make sure the original tierod mounting point on the spindle is not bent....This could very well be the spot that I was told was bent...If it is, it could cause the adapter to lean...It could also be the other side, causing the adapter there to look more vertical.....Compare the angles of the adapter sleeve the rods thread into to each other and see if they are the same......After you get the nuts out from under the rod, compress the suspension and watch your outer tierod heims, and see which one reaches it's angle limits first, then check for the same at full droop......The one that goes the entire travel range without binding is the side that has the right angle on the adapter....The side that doesn't is either the bent adapter or spindle....Then again, it may supposed to be different angles to compensate for the difference in tierod height....I would say that if both heims doesn't bind anywhere in the suspension travel, it won't matter...Only the height of the tierod will effect yout bumpsteer, not the angle of the outer heim stem.....
I also noticed in one of the pics that your lower tierod heim is egged......This is a result of the rod being too high, and being at too much of an angle during compression, causing it to reach it's limits before the suspension compresses....Not sure that would have put enough strain on the adapter to bend it or not, but it's very possible.....I would consider replacing that heim.....It could leave you stranded or worse if it fails....You should be able to wiggle the heims at both full droop and full compression to insure there is no binding......
Hoodlum


More proof from an actual owner the kit is plague with problems, what exactly has LIEwire said about these problems, has he made updates and notified all the owners of the kits he has sold of the updates?



What problems are you referring too here hoser? The only problems in this thread were caused by either a little mis-alignment of a nut and a hole before welding which isn't a design flaw as much as a welders error,and problems associated with Turbo putting a nut where it didn't belong......


Your whole reply is how to fix it, your listing all the problems, your giving advice on modifying and changing it from its original design, are these changes listed in the installation instructions, are they listed in the advertisements?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:49 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Well I drove this a little bit at the track today and it felt to twitchy... at speeds of 40 50 I could feel the wheel get "stiff" when I would hit a small burm. I still have the toe out problem but it is not as severe. I left it as hoodlum told me??? I had it up on the racks and had the toe set to 0 like liewire instructions/hoodlum stated to set them at droop. Liewire never instructed me on how to do this so I am only hoping that's right... If the ody has me in it, you can see the toe out from the cab. but if I unload the suspension the toe is straight. I guess I'll have to settle for close enough, and hope for the best. I am sure someday I will figure out what I did wrong...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 11:08 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
some pics...
pic 1 and 2 is right after I get out of car...
the toe is out now... but if I lift and release as I did in 3&4 pics the toe is set right???


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 9:34 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22133
Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
some pics...
pic 1 and 2 is right after I get out of car...
the toe is out now... but if I lift and release as I did in 3&4 pics the toe is set right???


I thought he advertised this thing as 0 bump steer?

Where are the install instructions again, if you can see toe change by getting in and out then something is very wrong.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 10:00 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
hoser wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
some pics...
pic 1 and 2 is right after I get out of car...
the toe is out now... but if I lift and release as I did in 3&4 pics the toe is set right???


I thought he advertised this thing as 0 bump steer?

Where are the install instructions again, if you can see toe change by getting in and out then something is very wrong.


I guess I will wait on my final conclusion until chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts sends me the replacement ball joints... I am sure this might have something to do with it??? I did follow the pictures/directions so I will not fork out another $.50 much less $50.00 on this $2700.00 kit... I really think the maker who sent me the sloppy directions should be out of pocket not me...
I doubt chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts motorsports will supply these ball joints as it is just easier to call me a liar and stupid...
I am really tired of this whole bad ordeal. I no longer can enjoy this odyssey. I have scoured chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts.com looking for better pictures but every one of them I saw hides the internal workings??? Showing just the outer views which look good and all, just are no help in me trying to figure this crap out??? With such slick advertising skills, who needs customer service???


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 10:41 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22133
Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
hoser wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
some pics...
pic 1 and 2 is right after I get out of car...
the toe is out now... but if I lift and release as I did in 3&4 pics the toe is set right???


I thought he advertised this thing as 0 bump steer?

Where are the install instructions again, if you can see toe change by getting in and out then something is very wrong.


I guess I will wait on my final conclusion until chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts sends me the replacement ball joints... I am sure this might have something to do with it??? I did follow the pictures/directions so I will not fork out another $.50 much less $50.00 on this $2700.00 kit... I really think the maker who sent me the sloppy directions should be out of pocket not me...
I doubt chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts motorsports will supply these ball joints as it is just easier to call me a liar and stupid...
I am really tired of this whole bad ordeal. I no longer can enjoy this odyssey. I have scoured chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts.com looking for better pictures but every one of them I saw hides the internal workings??? Showing just the outer views which look good and all, just are no help in me trying to figure this crap out??? With such slick advertising skills, who needs customer service???

Quote:
I have scoured chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts.com looking for better pictures but every one of them I saw hides the internal workings???


Correct he is a master of illusions, he is very crafty with words, if he name was Bill I would be calling him SLICK WILLY,

Here is another example severial people sent me info on some new "kits" he is working on.

Quote:
I designed a kit that will get 12-13"


WELL is it 12" or 13" he too DUMB to figure it out??? He says it "DESIGNED A KIT" yet can not tell you?? come on slick willy let us know....

He knows exactly what the travel is he also knows that 99% of the people that read his spew will tell everybody they know the kit gets 13" of travel NOT 12" when someone buys something they want to thing to themselfs they got the best, its human nature thing, before you BUY a kit I suggest you have slick willy remove the shock so you can measure the suspension travel yourself then also measure the amount of shock travel required to give you that much travel and the amount of shock travel that comes with the "kit" see where I am going with this, who has ever measured? I can get 13" of travel on my Pilot with the +2" arms if I leave the shock and tie rod off LMAO, on a average jump my tires will compress at least 2" so now I have 15" oh wait the cheeks of my ass compress 2" and my seat foam another 2" heck I have 19" of travel! Spread the word!

Quote:
2nd that is +4 giving 15-16"


WELL is it 15" or 16" he designed and built it yet he don't know or cant say? HELLO!!!! he is trying to brain wash YOU PEOPLE like ATVR with their """"72 HP CR500""" Engine that my 400cc Pilot never had any problems keeping up with the 4 CR500 Pilots it drag raced... I guess I can tell everybody my hoserized 400cc Pilot Engine makes 72 hp GO SPREAD THE WORD!

Many times I have asked for clarification from Steve on his products and for better pictures he NEVER provides them this tells me he has things to hide, you can always tell if a vendor or manufacture is hiding something by asking a few simple questions, I have found the majority are OPEN AND HONEST they have NOTHING TO HIDE and for good reasons they are offering a SOLID HONEST product..

Their are professionals out their that are in advertising stretching the truth as much as they can to sell you something and many that FLAT OUT LIE because they know not many are going to question how much suspension travel you really are getting and also have their own way of adding up the travel, FYI I got the seat compression and tire deflection idea from Radical it was the BS he use to spew when bragging about his Pilots performance to others, he would include them.... I came up with the cheeks of the ass thing.

I met Steve about day one when he searched out message boards looking for Pilot Odyssey help, I spent hundreds of hours in the Pilot Odyssey chat room chatting with him and countless hours talking to him on ride trips, I have not seen any change in his shady way of presenting himself and things he is trying to sell, he still like a little kid goes into hiding when people point out problems with things he sells, pulls a disappearing act, us that know him from about day one find it "Funny"

Everybody has their own way of looking at things, when they see something each sees something different, ask a cop when they do investigations they get many stories form people that have seen the same event that's why they do scientific studys like you see on CSI (or me measuring the travel) to get answers Steve said their was nothing wrong with his products http://pilotodyssey.com/shocking.mpg He no doubt sees things slightly different than others DEE DEE DEE.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 12:00 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Here are the instructions...

These are work in progress instructions. Send them as if from you. I try
to update them based on questions asked:


Anyone got updated instructions they can forward me???


Turbotexas wrote:
Here are the directions I was forwarded from chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts...
And a link...
Randy,

He needs a 5/16" 12 point wrench. Those bolts are 170 KSI which is I think
about grade 10 so they can be cranked on. The nut inserts they go into are
grade 12.

I don't know where the video is. I have not been sending it out. The kit
is normally sent out mostly assembled. In order to get it out the day it
went, a few things like the ball joints were not threaded into the A-arms.
I have attached a zip file containing a bunch of closer pictures than what
I put on my website. Please only send these to those who have already paid
for a kit.

These are work in progress instructions. Send them as if from you. I try
to update them based on questions asked:


Strip down the front of the machine. Basically everything has to be
removed. Pop the stock ball joints out of the knuckles by hitting the SIDE
of the knuckle where the stud goes through while pulling on the arm. The
shock will cause it to pop. Hitting the stud itself will destroy it.

You will have to cut the hoop off the bottom of the frame that protected
the steering. The brake line mounting tabs on the lower front main tube
and a couple more tabs inside the lower frame tubes at the back of the
front fenders also will be cut off. Holding the lower portion of the
subframe up against the main frame will indicate the tabs that need to be
removed. The tabs needs to be ground flush to the tubes. Dry fit the
subframe to your frame before getting it painted or powder coated. The
steering tab in the center of the machine needs to be drilled out to
7/16". The spacer goes under the inner tie rod ends, then the left end and
finally the right end on top.

The ball joints will end up with about 1/2" to 3/4" of thread showing if
adjusted to clear stock rims
. If using wheels with less backspacing, the
ball joints can be threaded in more without clearance issues. Some camber
(top of wheels tipped in) is desirable.

The inner most hiem in the steering adjusts the steering stops. You should
end up with about 2.5" of tie rod movement from left stop to right stop.
Check for clearance at full suspension droop. The bottom of the studs on
the outermost tie rod end can be trimmed to get additional clearance.
However, if you try to get too much movement, the steering can pop past
full turn.
You can adjust the steering stops by loosening both jam nuts
and spinning the drag link (7" long 5/8" OD tube). Toe in can be adjusted
by loosening the tie rod jam nuts and spinning the tie rod (aluminum
tube). Zero toe works well, adjust as desired. Once toe is set and
steering stops are set, if there is excessive thread exposed on the outer
hiem of the drag link do the following: Remove the bolt from the clevis on
the tie rod. Spin the inner drag link hiem in counting the turns. Replace
the bolt then adjust the toe in again by 1/2 the number of turns. The same
process or the opposite adjustments can be used to minimize bump steer. It
is possible to adjust down to +/- 0.1 degrees of bump steer through the
entire suspension travel. Note that even with the worst possible
adjustment, bump steer will still be far less than stock.

There is a small piece twisted and bent tab. This is to mount the brake
tee. It goes under one of the bolts on the triangular steering stem plate.
The hard brake line will swoop back and to the left, right angle down then
right angle forward into the tee. See the pictures for placement of the
flexible lines.

The number of parts may seem overwhelming, but once you get it next to the
machine, it will make more sense. Once the number of parts left dwindles
from installing some, those remaining will make more sense. Let me know
any questions you have.

Steve Bishop (Professional Liar)
chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts Motorsports



http://www.pilotodyssey.com/8525687400 ... enDocument

there are pictures here at this link


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 10:25 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22133
Location: Chicago
Quote:
I don't know where the video is. I have not been sending it out.


Why not, if you have a tool that makes it easier to assemble why not send?



Quote:
The kit is normally sent out mostly assembled. In order to get it out the day it
went, a few things like the ball joints were not threaded into the A-arms.


By his own admission he is telling you he set you up to fail.

Quote:
I have attached a zip file containing a bunch of closer pictures than what
I put on my website. Please only send these to those who have already paid
for a kit.


Only show to those that have already paid for a kit? WHY what is in them pictures he don't want people to see BEFORE they buy the kit, sounds SHADY to me.

Can you post the pictures he don't want people to see?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 10:32 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22133
Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
some pics...
pic 1 and 2 is right after I get out of car...
the toe is out now... but if I lift and release as I did in 3&4 pics the toe is set right???



From the mutts instructions

Quote:
The same process or the opposite adjustments can be used to minimize bump steer. It
is possible to adjust down to +/- 0.1 degrees of bump steer through the
entire suspension travel. Note that even with the worst possible
adjustment, bump steer will still be far less than stock.


You must have something very wrong.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 11:44 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
a pic from the video I made driving this off a 5' tall deck with 8' ramps...


Attachments:
offtruck002 007_0001.jpg
offtruck002 007_0001.jpg [ 32.4 KiB | Viewed 1737 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 12:28 pm 
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Posts: 877
we need to see the video on this ha :shock:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 1:05 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Stoneman wrote:
we need to see the video on this ha :shock:


When I have access to hi speed!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 2:24 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Turbotexas wrote:
Stoneman wrote:
we need to see the video on this ha :shock:


When I have access to hi speed!!!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xa_BspmU5g


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 3:12 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22133
Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
Stoneman wrote:
we need to see the video on this ha :shock:


When I have access to hi speed!!!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xa_BspmU5g


So that's how you bent the ball joints?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 3:17 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
hoser wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
Stoneman wrote:
we need to see the video on this ha :shock:


When I have access to hi speed!!!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xa_BspmU5g


So that's how you bent the ball joints?


No that was the first time to do that off the trailer with me in car...that was friday morning after loading in Laredo...
The joints were first noticed a while back at the track near my house...
Why would that bend the joints??? I crawled down...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 3:20 pm 
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Posts: 22133
Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
hoser wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
Stoneman wrote:
we need to see the video on this ha :shock:


When I have access to hi speed!!!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xa_BspmU5g


So that's how you bent the ball joints?


No that was the first time to do that off the trailer with me in car...that was friday morning after loading in Laredo...
The joints were first noticed a while back at the track near my house...
Why would that bend the joints??? I crawled down...


Ok I thought I heard them bend as you met the ground.. :shock:

::-:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 5:49 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 12, 2006 9:02 pm
Posts: 533
Location: Bellevue WA I OWE Hoser $300.00
I heard a big crunch of metal I thought too... did your shocks bottom out?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 5:58 pm 
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Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Twilight wrote:
I heard a big crunch of metal I thought too... did your shocks bottom out?


Look at picture posted above... look at bumber on gravel driveway... I heard no such noise weeks ago when ball joints bent!!!


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 6:06 pm 
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Location: Bellevue WA I OWE Hoser $300.00
That angle to me is like a nose dive and I do not think that would be good for the Oddy, that's just my opinion though. I will watch again to make sure. It seems like that would stress out the front end, and I can make out the bumper hitting but also seems like the arms or tie rods would hit at that angle.

Again, this is just my opinion on what i see.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 6:56 pm 
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Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Twilight wrote:
That angle to me is like a nose dive and I do not think that would be good for the Oddy, that's just my opinion though. I will watch again to make sure. It seems like that would stress out the front end, and I can make out the bumper hitting but also seems like the arms or tie rods would hit at that angle.

Again, this is just my opinion on what i see.


How fast was I going???
What you see is the skidplate doing it's job!!! I will post pic of scratches on aluminum!!! what you DIDN'T WANT TO SEE is how far the wheels moved TOWARD THE FENDERS!!! Which is the only direction they can travel??? Noew please go re-watch this frame for frame and come back and explain to us how you can say this...but also seems like the arms or tie rods would hit at that angle.what the heck are they going to hit??? and you said you have seen this kit???

then go google the word subliminal...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 11:21 pm 
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Posts: 533
Location: Bellevue WA I OWE Hoser $300.00
This is why i'm not going to say shit here anymore, if your going to fly off the handle after I stated "this is JUST MY OPINION", then screw it. I'll stay away from here and Kiowa's board.

Back to mini-buggy for me.

later

Hoser u can ban me if you want.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 11:51 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
your opinion is always welcomed, but you are flying off your handle when asked how you came to your conclusions??? An open discussion with only opinions is no more than an arguement... I ain't here to argue with anyone, but when you assume something like that I want an explanation to how you came to this, in case I don't see what you see!!!


Twilight wrote:
This is why i'm not going to say shit here anymore, if your going to fly off the handle after I stated "this is JUST MY OPINION", then screw it. I'll stay away from here and Kiowa's board.

Back to mini-buggy for me.

later

Hoser u can ban me if you want.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 7:21 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22133
Location: Chicago
Twilight wrote:
This is why i'm not going to say shit here anymore, if your going to fly off the handle after I stated "this is JUST MY OPINION", then screw it. I'll stay away from here and Kiowa's board.

Back to mini-buggy for me.

later

Hoser u can ban me if you want.


I am sorry your unhappy with someones reply and because someone might not agree with you but why would I ban you?

YOUR the one that has chosen not to come back.

Is this another slam on me as you exit so you can bitch about how hoser ban you.

don't be mad "This is JUST MY OPINION"


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 7:35 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22133
Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
Twilight wrote:
I heard a big crunch of metal I thought too... did your shocks bottom out?


Look at picture posted above... look at bumber on gravel driveway... I heard no such noise weeks ago when ball joints bent!!!


That was a joke, so was ---> So that's how you bent the ball joints? <------, don't be silly I cant hear metal bend when standing next to it in a quite room, how many emails and phone calls you think was made after I typed those comments, I know at least one that jumped all over it in hopes of shifting the blame for your kits problems and flaws away from chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts.... lol :-)


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