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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 3:58 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
I am glad your happy with your bumpers and nerfs but how happy do you think you would be if you bolted on your new bumpers and nerfs and they function like this http://pilotodyssey.com/shocking.mpg

This is how they were before you came along, LIEwire had no intension's of changing or fixing them until he received pressure from members of the group, heck he had to take weeks of public beatings on the boards before he would admit their was a problem, everybody that has seen the video acknowledge their is a problem seconds after watching it, its a no brainer :-)

SO thanks to myself and others YOU DIDNT receive what you see in the video, it was people refusing to 'give it a rest' that brought this about. :-)







-::


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 Post subject: LT kit
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 4:44 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 1:59 pm
Posts: 58
Hoodlum


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 Post subject: Re: LT kit
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 8:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
rooky wrote:
Just for the record,I have had my kit on the pilot for 2 years now without any issues....I have beat it, slammed it, jumped it,and anything else you can imagine, and haven't bent, cracked, or had to re-adjust anything.....
I don't know how many hours I have on the kit, and I don't keep track of how many gallons of fuel or oil I have used...Don't want to know, but I have been on a ride atleast every 8 to 10 weeks since having the kit, and we don't sit around on these rides.....It has several hours......
I have driven a pilot with the ATVR kit on it, and mine steers MUCH easier than the one they offer, not to mention has a shock set-up that is much softer, and gives a much more cushioned ride.....Just as an example, this past weekend at Durhamtown, I was following Rocketman through a tight woods trail that was loaded with hairpin switchbacks....He was on his bike, and is fast on it as well as his pilot......I could stay right on his back tire through the entire trail...He commented that I was the only person in the group he couldn't shake through the trail, and I contribute all this to the steering characteristics of the front a-arm kit...I can actually drive it with one hand if desired....There is no brake sliding around corners...The pilot goes where I point it....
I am not saying this as an advertisment, because I could care less if anyone buys one, and livewire is not paying me, giving me any free parts, or anything else....The statement was made that they wished someone else would step up and comment on it, so here I am......
There are several guys that can comment on it and the durability of it.......If you want their names, contact me at pilothoodlum@aim.com and I will be more than happy to put you in touch with them...
Turbo......Your balljoint bent because you have way too much thread showing outside the nut...Move them in closer to the arm...It is also bent in a direction (front to back) that suggests you either hit something, or nosed a jump....I have landed ALOT of hard jumps, and never bent one of mine....Run the lower joint all the way in, and adjust the camber with your top one...
You also have a nut under your heim/knuckle adapter connection....This changes your tie-rod angle by raising the outside of the tie-rod...This will drastically effect the bumpsteer.....Take it out......This can be a reason for the constant tow change...It would seriously increase the amount of bumpsteer you have, which would cause the tow to be different depending on the height of the arm...If it is sitting so that the arms are in a different location due to unlevel ground or weight whether more or less on the front, it would change your tow....I experimented with mine after looking at the pics of your tie-rod set up with the nut under the heim, and my bumpsteer went from 1/4 " through the suspension travel to more than 1 1/2 ", just by raising the outside of that tie-rod the 1/2 ".....
As for the rubber boot being all cracked up, I would like to see more pics of that, or atleast here the whole story...The boots that come with the balljoints have ridges on them, as can be seen in your previous pics....This cracked up boot has no ridges in it that I can see....Is this the actual boot that came with the kit? I have had no issues with the boots cracking, splitting or anything else.....
I cannot believe how much grief and name calling that has been credited to livewire in this topic, all over the fact that someone didn't know how to put something together and adjust it correctly...You said you wasn't mechanically inclined, and if that is the case, it should be taken into consideration...It does take time to get everything adjusted so that it performs at it's designed level...It's NOT a bolt on and go......Just like the balljoint.....It is only common sense that tells a person that you don't want that much of the threaded stem sticking out...You are only asking for it to get bent due to the amount of leverage working against it..........Your frame could also be tweeked somewhat, causing the adjustment issues...Please consider that possibility.....The previous owner of your oddy stated to me that he knows for a fact that one of the spindles is bent because he bent it...This can cause set-up problems and handling problems as well that is in no way a fault to the kit.....I can tell something is out by your pics...In one pic, the amount of threads exposed on your upper and lower balljoints are much different on one side than they are on the other....This should let you know that either your adjustments are off, or something is bent.....
I continue to dis-credit this topic more and more for the simple fact that I have the same parts you have and have ridden it very hard without issues.....You also begin to dis-credit yourself.....You stated in the bent balljoint posts that you never jumped it, yet stated only 3 post earlier that you finally got up enough nerve to try some jumping....Discrepencies like this only make me wonder what exactly your intentions are.....
As stated before, this is NOT an advertisment.....You have your opinions of him, and everyone is entitled to their own....I would suggest that you go to ATVR, pay alot more $$$$$$$ and get that kit with the stiff a@* shocks that requires you to cut, weld, and after all is said and done, you still have a stiff riding machine that takes two mules to turn.....By the way, I saw a balljoing break on one of theirs last year....
Hoodlum



LMAO looks like a advertisement to me, you must think it looks like one too...

Apples to oranges you have a Pilot he has a FL350 Odyssey perhaps you didnt notice?

Thanks for the tips too bad LIEwire didnt give them.

Theme is the same blame the customer the customer is always WRONG.

Lets recap in short hand, WHY didnt LIEwire do a LONG tutorial on how to install these kits with WAY TOO MANY pictures then when or if TurboTexas still didnt get it just simply answer his questions then ADD that to his tutorial, LIEwire BLEW it big time he had a chance to sell some kits when Turbo started asking questions, his reply to Turobo's questions was the REAL side of LIEwire, he is a ASSHOLE he showed his ASS no use in trying to sugar coat it, if he had the slightest bit of compassion for his fellow man he would have ANSWERED the questions and NOT sent his darkside henchmen to bash and pick a fight with Turbo, you CANT deny it go read the whole saga again, I read it many times looking for where Turbo started the bashing and name calling, his well known buddies from MI ATTACKED Turbo, this is well documented too.

Your comments here are EXACTLY like comments I have read and heard about ATV Racing owners over the past 14 years, ask BIGTOM about his installing their kit on his Pilot, his comments are 100% opposite of others I have talked to, I have talked to many that installed the ATVR kits and were happy as hell, installation was a breeze they had nothing negative to say only positive, I also have talked to others other than BIGTOM say basically the same things BIGTOM said about the kit, this is the BIG REASON why were here discussing and why it needs talked about in public AND NOT DELETED like on other boards.


FYI my main problem with LIEwire is he is a LIAR, over the years we have caught him in dozens of LIES that is why Lude renamed him LIEwire, some day, way to late, he will UNDERSTAND open and HONEST is the BEST way to conduct business and to make friends, I have no use for a LIAR, he also is no designer or fabricator this is why his 'team didnt listen' to him (his words not mine) on the Junkyard Wars show his first release of his bumpers and nerfs also are PROOF (FACT) of his skills http://pilotodyssey.com/shocking.mpg <------ Those were no accident!

Again thanks for the help and pointing out Turbo has things installed wrong hopefully he can correct these problems and make it work


All that being said keep in mind I DIDNT create ANY of these problems LIEwire did, he is the ROOT cause for these problems NOT Turbo, Turbo is just trying to get help and MORE IMPORTANTLY showing exactly what he bought and the LACK OF customer service.


-::


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 9:39 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Hoodlum thanks for chiming in!!!
I do remember you mentioning something about the tie rod ends being to long, and Now it appears that Steve is using you or asking you to send me such details... If I would have known this earlier I would have cut these down and tried it out... Nothing personal, but real hard to just cut something up with out direct instructions from the guy that built/designed/sells a product... Leaves door open for blame to be placed on me as usual???
I will find the instructions that stated to leave 1/2 inch for clearance reasons.. that is why the ball joints are out so far... Steve was kind enough to send me some nylock nuts and some STAINLESS STEEL drag lings, but never sent any better instructions? If my simplistic questions would have been answered I am sure Steve and I wouldn't be having these problems...
Rubber boots with out grooves are original... Some on my Ody are different because I removed the spindle several times and didn't know about greasing the rubber while smacking the ball joint tool into the grove... I also received a mismatched ball joint in the original shipment from Steve... The rubber boots are not an issue with me, but once again my honesty is questioned by others??? Remember this Odyssey has probably seen more Desert and dunes than a ton of others in the last year since I have bought it... It is a great benefit of my Job!!! It sits outside under the sun all day long while I travel the countryside... I haven't used it near as much as I used to BEFORE I bought this kit... I will eventually trust it enough to go all out again... Search our ride report section here and see for yourself how many places I have ridden!!!
As far as the Jumping goes... Before I bought this kit I yard darted at the local track that is owned by a guy who has an Ody... (This was the first Ody I had ever seen and soon after bought the one I have now...)
When I darted this thing with the stock Suspension and Bumper and seat I hurt myself in two places... My Lower Back, and Left foot. I still have these pains and doubt they will go away... I then determined that I either had to sell this thing or do some major Mods to keep this from happening again... The desert bumper was best thing I bought as the skid plate would have avoided the sudden stop...
Have I been jumping this thing... on one occasion on purpose, at the above mentioned track... 5 miles from home so If I broke something or got hurt I was at Home...
two other occasion and solely by accident... Once in barstow and once in El Paso... these were not jumps just where I ran out of dirt... It will happen when you ride someplace besides a groomed race track...
Was I impressed with the performance of the kit when I landed... YES!!! Randy at www.odysseysalvage.com did a great job on setting up the shocks!!! Am I happy about having to replace two ball joints? (this will bring total to 3 @25.00 each) Hell no... Why didn't Steve take 10 minutes out of his day to help me with some basic simple questions??? I have no clue??? I guess he had to prove I was Stupid so if potential customers referred to my problems with the kit all he had to say was "Oh Turbo, he is just Stupid, you won't have these problems" Do you see the beauty in that marketing gimmick???
Who was it that told you my spindle was bent? I bought this from a guy from S.C. and he bought it from I think it was throttle??? throttle posted way back that he heard this guy from SC wrecked the car... and the guy did admit to me that the right lower j-arm had been replaced because of a broken ball joint... Is my spindle bend... NO, but I see where you are going with this... Or where you are being told to go with this!!! LOL If it was bent why did I never post about that problem BEFORE i BOUGHT THIS KIT??? And again why is every one making excuses instead of helping??? I have witnessed GROWN MEN behave like CHILDREN over this ordeal Calling me names and the whole nine yards???
Again I am thankful for you investing your time at the request of others to address some install issues, I wish others would post up also, That is the beauty of HOSERS board we are here to learn and help others (of which I am on the receiving end more that others) These guy's have been more help than immaginable, and with out them I am sure my ody would be in a barn rotting away cause I couldn't figure it out!!! The site with the dash/is about taking your cash (pilot dash odyssey) was more of a way for me to contact several friends from California... I have been banned from that site and haven't lost a wink of sleep over it... I do frequently read the dribble there and find the race video's from Michigan very comical!!!
Again Thanks for being the go-between Hoodlum!!! Enjoy your two new Pilots!!! Maybe you can do a thread over here on the install of your A-arms!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 9:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5523
Location: New Jersey
What ever happened to that motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) you said Randy screwed up?
Thanks for the imput on the kit, is is very helpful to Turbo and myself.I just wish Steve could have told me over 4 years ago, but I'll take anything I can get these days.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 10:04 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Ride reports... There are a few I missed or didn't even report on here as they were just places I parked and rode in the Desert southwest... Tons of Places out there... I love my job!!!
http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=3550
http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=2958
http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=3449
http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=3382
http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=3012
http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=2574
http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=2491
http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.ph ... ght=kermit


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 10:17 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2004 4:48 pm
Posts: 1036
Location: CT
Turbo, next time you come out to New England, we can test that suspension in some rock gardens for you. If one rock damaged a tie rod, I would hate to see what our trails do to that set up.
Patience, adjusting and seat time will eventually work the bugs out. Good luck.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 10:37 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
King Kx wrote:
Turbo, next time you come out to New England, we can test that suspension in some rock gardens for you. If one rock damaged a tie rod, I would hate to see what our trails do to that set up.
Patience, adjusting and seat time will eventually work the bugs out. Good luck.


Yes I am willing to admit I am not as patient as others!!! I just want to spend my time riding while I am away from home... Not in a truckstop wrenching... I save that for while I am at home!!! I might have some skid plates made up to protect my a-arms... Next time I am in New england We will have a get together!!! Ya'll will have to cut the tree's down though... LOL


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 11:31 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Here are the directions I was forwarded from chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts...
And a link...
Randy,

He needs a 5/16" 12 point wrench. Those bolts are 170 KSI which is I think
about grade 10 so they can be cranked on. The nut inserts they go into are
grade 12.

I don't know where the video is. I have not been sending it out. The kit
is normally sent out mostly assembled. In order to get it out the day it
went, a few things like the ball joints were not threaded into the A-arms.
I have attached a zip file containing a bunch of closer pictures than what
I put on my website. Please only send these to those who have already paid
for a kit.

These are work in progress instructions. Send them as if from you. I try
to update them based on questions asked:


Strip down the front of the machine. Basically everything has to be
removed. Pop the stock ball joints out of the knuckles by hitting the SIDE
of the knuckle where the stud goes through while pulling on the arm. The
shock will cause it to pop. Hitting the stud itself will destroy it.

You will have to cut the hoop off the bottom of the frame that protected
the steering. The brake line mounting tabs on the lower front main tube
and a couple more tabs inside the lower frame tubes at the back of the
front fenders also will be cut off. Holding the lower portion of the
subframe up against the main frame will indicate the tabs that need to be
removed. The tabs needs to be ground flush to the tubes. Dry fit the
subframe to your frame before getting it painted or powder coated. The
steering tab in the center of the machine needs to be drilled out to
7/16". The spacer goes under the inner tie rod ends, then the left end and
finally the right end on top.

The ball joints will end up with about 1/2" to 3/4" of thread showing if
adjusted to clear stock rims
. If using wheels with less backspacing, the
ball joints can be threaded in more without clearance issues. Some camber
(top of wheels tipped in) is desirable.

The inner most hiem in the steering adjusts the steering stops. You should
end up with about 2.5" of tie rod movement from left stop to right stop.
Check for clearance at full suspension droop. The bottom of the studs on
the outermost tie rod end can be trimmed to get additional clearance.
However, if you try to get too much movement, the steering can pop past
full turn.
You can adjust the steering stops by loosening both jam nuts
and spinning the drag link (7" long 5/8" OD tube). Toe in can be adjusted
by loosening the tie rod jam nuts and spinning the tie rod (aluminum
tube). Zero toe works well, adjust as desired. Once toe is set and
steering stops are set, if there is excessive thread exposed on the outer
hiem of the drag link do the following: Remove the bolt from the clevis on
the tie rod. Spin the inner drag link hiem in counting the turns. Replace
the bolt then adjust the toe in again by 1/2 the number of turns. The same
process or the opposite adjustments can be used to minimize bump steer. It
is possible to adjust down to +/- 0.1 degrees of bump steer through the
entire suspension travel. Note that even with the worst possible
adjustment, bump steer will still be far less than stock.

There is a small piece twisted and bent tab. This is to mount the brake
tee. It goes under one of the bolts on the triangular steering stem plate.
The hard brake line will swoop back and to the left, right angle down then
right angle forward into the tee. See the pictures for placement of the
flexible lines.

The number of parts may seem overwhelming, but once you get it next to the
machine, it will make more sense. Once the number of parts left dwindles
from installing some, those remaining will make more sense. Let me know
any questions you have.

Steve Bishop (Professional Liar)
chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts Motorsports



http://www.pilotodyssey.com/8525687400 ... enDocument

there are pictures here at this link


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 11:48 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Turbotexas wrote:
Here are the directions I was forwarded from chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts...
And a link...
Randy,

...

I don't know where the video is. I have not been sending it out.

this would have been handy??? But he only made one video???

...
These are work in progress instructions. Send them as if from you. I try
to update them based on questions asked:


That is funny I don't care who you are!!!

The ball joints will end up with about 1/2" to 3/4" of thread showing if
adjusted to clear stock rims
.


See I told you I only followed directions!!! I do have stock rims!!!

Some camber
(top of wheels tipped in) is desirable.


How Much is SOME???

The bottom of the studs on
the outermost tie rod end can be trimmed to get additional clearance.
However, if you try to get too much movement, the steering can pop past
full turn
.


Why didn't he just cut them himself... Since he already knew This???

You can adjust the steering stops by loosening both jam nuts
and spinning the drag link (7" long 5/8" OD tube).
Why did he send me 8" long pieces, made of soft steel??? Why were there a pair of Stainless links sitting on my front porch when I got Home??? With no explaination as to what to do with them??? LMAO

Toe in can be adjusted
by loosening the tie rod jam nuts and spinning the tie rod (aluminum
tube).
Why have I got to do this after every ride??? http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=3550


Zero toe works well, adjust as desired.
Well that helped alot!!!

There is a small piece twisted and bent tab. This is to mount the brake
tee. It goes under one of the bolts on the triangular steering stem plate.
The hard brake line

He never sent a "HARD BRAKE LINE" AND THEN CALLED ME STUPID AS I COULDN'T FIGURE THIS ONE OUT???

will swoop back and to the left, right angle down then
right angle forward into the tee. See the pictures for placement of the
flexible lines.

The number of parts may seem overwhelming, but once you get it next to the
machine, it will make more sense. Once the number of parts left dwindles
from installing some, those remaining will make more sense. Let me know
any questions you have.

Steve Bishop (Professional Liar)
chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts Motorsports


AGAIN that's funny I don't care who you are!!!


http://www.pilotodyssey.com/8525687400 ... enDocument

there are pictures here at this link


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 11:58 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Hoodlum you mentioned the tierod end having a nut that didn't belong... This picture shows what I have copied???
Would you ask Steve to clarify this???


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 12:02 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I have been requested the photos be posted here to keep this better organised...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 12:10 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Hoodlum have you got any pictures you care to compare


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 12:12 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Sorry but I can only post 5 at a time...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 12:19 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
There were some other photo's around but I don't have the inclination to search the web AGAIN!!! I had to do it when I installed this abortion...
So far as well as Steves pictures show, my ball joints are threaded out as far as his??? Or am I blind and Stupid???


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File comment: This is the last one I have received from chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts motorsports...
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 Post subject: Re: LT kit
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 1:07 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Let's get some issues cleared up...

rooky wrote:
I cannot believe how much grief and name calling that has been credited to livewire in this topic, all over the fact that someone didn't know how to put something together and adjust it correctly...You said you wasn't mechanically inclined, and if that is the case, it should be taken into consideration...It does take time to get everything adjusted so that it performs at it's designed level...It's NOT a bolt on and go......Just like the balljoint.....It is only common sense that tells a person that you don't want that much of the threaded stem sticking out...You are only asking for it to get bent due to the amount of leverage working against it..........




Go find me a aftermarket Long travel kit for ANY ATV/QUAD with these kinda pitiful directions being sold on the market today and I bet you they will not be in business next week!!! The fact that this is a very limited market, and with very few of these ODY's not being butchered up for parts on e-bay the Sales opportunities are already stacked against Steve.
A simple organised set of instructions for this kit is a must have... I feel I paid for more than just a bucket of bolts and some welded tubing... Why should I have to waste my precious time while I am on the road working on this kit while Joe Schmoe who bought the ATVRACING LONG TRAVEL KIT for there pilot or quad is off in the dunes riding his arse off while I stumble around trying to do Steves job???
http://www.google.com/search?q=atv+long ... lz=1I7GGLR
Look at these first two search results...
the first... http://forums.atvconnection.com/message ... 489264.cfm
is a forum discussing a long travel kit WITHOUT all the bickering and name calling??? Is there something about these Pilot's and Ody's that make those on the P-O board (with the dash) such crybabies???
Second link... http://atv.off-road.com/atv/article/art ... ?id=191495
You can't buy advertising like that!!! I know, I Had a RETAIL Custom Saddlery in Central Texas!!! If a newspaper or television Station came to do a Story about me and My Shop I was jumping for Joy!!! Now just think of all the props chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts missed out on by acting like such a fool and calling me a liar and stupid... Kinda as Hoodlum was implying once again here??? Of course I realise you were given "talking points" by those who "requested" you come and take up for them...
who gives a ship about rubber boots??? LMAO Why do you feel it neccisary to defend rubber boots, which any fool will realise that after 4 months in the sun they will fade out... You are from Tennessee??? Ain't you ever heard of AL "GLOBAL WARMING" GORE???
Jumped to hard? I bent my ball joints and then you have the nerve to say I lied about that??? I think you wear you helmet to tight Hoodlum??? I hope Steve's offer of a sweet deal on the kit for your 2 new pilots was worth you stooping to such a low level... Like a snake in the grass...
Ask Steve about the Deal he offered Carl, bugpac's brother in law, on the kit I had just finished paying $2000.00 for...
I am foggy on the exact price but it was almost half of what I paid... You see small world that it is I bumped into Carl at a Truckstop in MI. when I was there and just the day after going to Silver Lake... Steve was attempting to make a deal on the second kit he had after selling mine to gather some capitol...(he was broke...) Carl didn't feel it was a necassary item for the track that he races on??? Once I filled him in on who I was and where I was from he said "Oh your the one having problems with livewire" He then filled me in on the local gossip for the Michigan area!!! Carl doesn't even come on these boards!!! LOL An old Cowboy saying... Be careful who you hold hands with, they might drag you down with them as they drown...
Again your insite is appreciated!!! Review the photo's I used as a set of instructions and offer up any and all help, that's all I really asked for in the first place!!!
David


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 1:19 am 
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Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Hoodlum and others I am wondering if you even read this whole thread from the beginning, BEFORE you posted?? Alot of your questions would have been answered!!!
Here is another good link you might enjoy while you are catching up over here!!!
http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=3260


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 Post subject: BUYER BEWARE!
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 7:27 am 
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Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
The ball joints will end up with about 1/2" to 3/4" of thread showing if
adjusted to clear stock rims.


Rooky says
Quote:
Turbo......Your balljoint bent because you have way too much thread showing outside the nut...Move them in closer to the arm...It is also bent in a direction (front to back) that suggests you either hit something, or nosed a jump....


Ok I guess he has no clue, nice try at making Turbo look dumb, more Darkside crapola, spin and bullshit to brain wash the average or new user that LIEwire is a ok guy, BUYER BEWARE!

Maybe Rooky can show us where Turbo started being rude and the name calling before the Darkside, he cant Afterthoughtmotorsports.com's henchmen ATTACKED Turbo FIRST !


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 7:31 am 
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Location: Chicago
Turbo by chance do you have a close up picture of this thing on the steering?

Red arrow in pic


Attachments:
close_knuckle_left_314.jpg
close_knuckle_left_314.jpg [ 47.05 KiB | Viewed 1906 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 8:15 am 
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Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
Hey whats the muffler clamps for?

You don't want to use clamps on the frame like that they create STRESS RISERS BIG TIME you do understand how a muffler clamp works don't you, the muffler system is a tube in a tube it deforms the 2 tubes so they lock together that clamp by design is design to BEND the tube you attach it to.

Do you have pics of what its holding?

You need to buy some tubing that has a inside diameter the same as your tube in the pics outside diameter then cut it in half and wrap it around the tube, I will take pics of the one I made for my Pilot tonight, your current setup would never pass any official tech inspection because of the reasons I listed above.


Attachments:
crush tubing.jpg
crush tubing.jpg [ 53.63 KiB | Viewed 1851 times ]
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 Post subject: LT
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:32 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 1:59 pm
Posts: 58
I


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 10:06 am 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
That is the shock tower...
page 4 of this thread pic 2006 for detail of tie rod end that needs to be cut off???
Hoodlum isn't reading this well... I DO HAVE STOCK TIRES!!! I use them with dune/sand tires.
Again thanks for the help Hoodlum. Please get all facts before letting fur fly!!!

hoser wrote:
Hey whats the muffler clamps for?

You don't want to use clamps on the frame like that they create STRESS RISERS BIG TIME you do understand how a muffler clamp works don't you, the muffler system is a tube in a tube it deforms the 2 tubes so they lock together that clamp by design is design to BEND the tube you attach it to.

Do you have pics of what its holding?

You need to buy some tubing that has a inside diameter the same as your tube in the pics outside diameter then cut it in half and wrap it around the tube, I will take pics of the one I made for my Pilot tonight, your current setup would never pass any official tech inspection because of the reasons I listed above.


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 Post subject: LT
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 11:45 am 
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Hoodlum


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 12:47 pm 
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Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Stock rims/wheels/not tires...


Attachments:
File comment: IN OR when this thread started...
fullcompshocks001.JPG
fullcompshocks001.JPG [ 45.7 KiB | Viewed 1946 times ]
File comment: Full compression and look how bad the toe is out??? Will taking out the nut on tierod end solve this???
fullcompshocks002.JPG
fullcompshocks002.JPG [ 57.89 KiB | Viewed 1946 times ]
File comment: In case I am accused of Doctoring pictures as I have been accused of in the past... These are on the back of my trailer right now...
why007.JPG
why007.JPG [ 50.43 KiB | Viewed 1946 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 12:59 pm 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
OK let's look at the directions one more time.... How do I get the tie rod end bolt to go thru the space that was cut out, but not cut out big enough for this to go all the way thru??? (see photo's) Where does this nut go then if not here??? If I had a parts list with sizes and destination then I might have been able to figure this out...
"The number of parts may seem overwhelming, but once you get it next to the
machine, it will make more sense. Once the number of parts left dwindles
from installing some, those remaining will make more sense. Let me know
any questions you have."

I apologise for not being smart enough to figure this sentance out, Thank you for your continued support!!!


Attachments:
File comment: It CAN'T go any deeper than this because of the lip of the plate not being lined up???
why001.JPG
why001.JPG [ 34.71 KiB | Viewed 1944 times ]
File comment: Where my finger is covering is the lip I am refering to??
why002.JPG
why002.JPG [ 31.51 KiB | Viewed 1944 times ]
File comment: Same problem on other side...
why005.JPG
why005.JPG [ 34.66 KiB | Viewed 1944 times ]
File comment: left side, look at the angle of the bolt compared to the other side...(next picture)
why004.JPG
why004.JPG [ 35.15 KiB | Viewed 1944 times ]
File comment: this is the right side... Angle not as sever???
why006.JPG
why006.JPG [ 38.85 KiB | Viewed 1944 times ]
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