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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 7:16 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Well I have an 89 piston, stock supposed to be a 85 so I am guessing she been bored a few times??? I found the problem to be the lack of a torque wrench! LOL "I put plenty of that red gasketmaker in it" LOL I am cleaning her up and will reassemble!
The previous owner has heli-coiled to bolts so I am thinking I will have to do the other two soon...


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File comment: you can see what I still have to clean up... That black crap is hard to get off with a red shop towle!!!
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 7:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22129
Location: Chicago
Go through the service manual and look to see if their is a pickup screen some place in the Engine you need to inspect it to see how much gasket sealer is inside the Engine, also pull the oil filter and inspect it, I think their is a screen in the oil tank?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 8:17 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
hoser wrote:
Go through the service manual and look to see if their is a pickup screen some place in the Engine you need to inspect it to see how much gasket sealer is inside the Engine, also pull the oil filter and inspect it, I think their is a screen in the oil tank?


I will I have to change the oil too... They are telling me it is a 440??? More than I wanted... ;p;


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 4:45 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
How in the world do you adjust the valves? I see clearances in the manual, but don't have a clue where to stick it???


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 8:15 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22129
Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
How in the world do you adjust the valves? I see clearances in the manual, but don't have a clue where to stick it???


Your checking the no tension gap between the valve stem and the rocker arm, no tension means the rocker arm is not applying any force on the valve stem.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 9:30 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 2856
Location: Wichita ks
I copied this for you hope it helps

Honda 400EX Valve Adjustment Instructions

Time to adjust the valves on your 400EX? Interested in doing it yourself? You have come to the right place! Adjusting your own valves is within the capabilities of anyone with basic mechanical knowledge. Please be safe out there, be sure to follow all standard shop practices (in other words, don't hurt yourself� if you do, don't blame me!) I also highly recommend purchasing a service manual. If you aren't completely sure that you can do the job properly, either have a competent friend show you, or take it to the shop and have them do it for you. If you adjust the valves to tight (to little clearance) then it is possible to burn a valve, damaging the valve, and possibly the cylinder head.

You are probably wondering, "what tools do I need?".
1) metric socket's and various ratchets/extensions (I prefer 6 point sockets)
2) metric combination wrenches
3) metric allen wrenches
4) various screwdrivers (don't skimp, cheap philips screwdrivers do more harm than good!)
5) feeler gauges (make sure that the set includes both a .004 inch and .005 inch.)
6) a clean place to work, with good lighting
7) fire extinguisher, safety glasses, etc (hey, you never know)


Now that you have your tools assembled, lets get to work! Doing your own maintenance can be a very rewarding and fun part of ATVing, but remember to think safety! Before starting work I recommend thourghly cleaning the machine, and degreasing the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). You don't want any 'stuff' falling in the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )), and a clean machine is much easier to work on.

Start by removing the rear fender seat assembly. Unhook the negative battery cable and secure it where it can't accidentally fall into contact with the battery. This will prevent the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) from accidentally starting later on. With the rear seat/fender assembly out of the way, it's time to remove front plastic. The top tank cover comes off first. Start by removing the 4 plastic push pins . To remove the pins, pull the center section of the pin up about � inch. This unlocks the pin, allowing you to remove it. Remove the gas cap, and pull the cover towards the rear of the quad then remove it. Time for the front fenders to come off. Remove the 4 10mm bolts and 2 5mm allen bolts that secure the front fender assembly . Then pull the fender assembly forward slightly so that you can reach and disconnect the wiring for the headlights and ignition switch.

With the plastic out of the way it's time to remove the fuel tank. Turn the fuel valve off, and disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor. Put a rag underneath the line to catch the small amount of fuel that will drip out when you remove the line . Now remove the rubber strap on each side of the rear of the tank, and the 2 10mm bolts at the front of the tank and remove the tank from the bike.

Time to remove the fuel tank heat protector. Start by unhooking the carburetor air vent, plastic push pin for the intake snorkel (you don't have to remove the snorkel though), clutch cable from the guide, and the 2 10mm bolts . Now you should be able to remove the heat protector from the frame. Make sure to pay special attention to the way the cables and vent hoses are attached to the fuel tank heat protector so you will be able to properly reinstall them.

With a clear view of the cylinder head, it's time to get down to business. Remove the 4 valve adjustment caps from the top of the cylinder head and the 2 timing plugs from the left crankcase cover . You will need 6mm and 10mm allen wrenches to remove the timing plugs. Carefully inspect the o-rings on all the covers, if any are torn replace them to prevent oil leaks and/or crud from getting in the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).

With the transmission in neutral slowly rotate the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) counter-clockwise. Use a 17mm socket on the crankshaft and rotate the Engine, while watching the intake valves. (carburetor side). After the valve's start to close, slowly watch the small timing window until the mark with the T aligns with the notch (be careful, as there are several marks on the flywheel). After the mark with the T is aligned, there should be some play in all 4 of the rocker arms, if there isn't then continue rotating the Engine until the T mark lines up again, and there is slack in all 4 rockers. This ensures that the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is on the compression stroke. Never rotate the crankshaft clockwise, if you go past the mark, continue rotating it until the mark comes up again. The key things to remember are the T mark must be lined up, and there should be some play in all 4 of the rocker arms.

Time to adjust the clearance! Insert a feeler gauge between the rocker arm, and the sub-rocker arm Loosen the 10mm lock nut, and adjust the screw in or out until there is slight drag on the feeler gauge. Tighten the lock nut while holding the adjuster screw. After tightening the lock nut recheck the valve clearance to make sure the adjusting screw didn't move. The exhaust valves should have .005 inches of clearance, and the intake valves should have .004 inches of clearance.

With all 4 valves adjusted, replace the valve and timing covers, making sure that the o-rings are not torn. I usually put a small amount of oil on the o-rings so that they don't stick the next time I have to remove them. Put the rest of the machine back together by reversing the steps.

Finished? Grab a cold drink, and pat yourself on the back for a job well done!

One thing to keep in mind if the cam is not stock it may and most lilky require a different clearence than stock.


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400 ex valvle adjust 3.jpg
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 9:41 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 2856
Location: Wichita ks
Pulled this off of hot cam:

Slowly rotate the Engine 2 revolutions and feel carefully for any unexpected binding. If any is felt, check the cam timing before going any further. Set the intake valves’ clearances to .005” (inch). Rotate the crankshaft and set the exhaust valves’ clearances to .006” (inch). Install the tappet covers. Install the spark plug. Install the Engine breather tube to fitting on the top of the cylinder head cover. Install the timing hole cover and the crankshaft cover.

See the diff for the hot cam verse stock.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 10:54 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I am stumped on the drag comment? And also where to measure...


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 11:13 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 2856
Location: Wichita ks
"Loosen the 10mm lock nut, and adjust the screw in or out until there is slight drag on the feeler gauge".

If you have done the rest to get to this point take the feeler ( use angle type) gauge and remove it from the bundle so you have the single one in your hand. Try to insert it under the rocker and on top of the valve tip as in the #10 pic. If it will not go between them your to tight. If you slid it in and can move the rocker ( nut and screw )up and down your way to loose. Now once inserted you can freely move the feeler gauge side to sideinsert screw driver in tip and loosen up nut at this point the feller will get reallly loose. back off the nut a little so you can tighten the crew in reduceing the distance btetween the rocker and valve. This is where the feller gauge is squeezed between the two ( rocker and valve) setting the gap,clearence. Play with a while to get a feel for it. This is where DRAG comes into play. As you tighten the screw move feller side to side a little untill your feel restiance ( drag). This is the point where you tighten down the nut on rocker holding the stem in place with the screw driver. This takes a little practice because you tend to move the adjuster stem when tightening down the nut. You must use counter torgue on the crew driver and you apply force to the wrench. When your down remove the feller guage and then try to reinsert it it should go be not real easy with slight drag as it moves from one side to the other.

Notes/Tips:

Remove the two feeler guages from the pack mark one with red tape( exhaust ) and one with blue tape ( intake)
Remove two addtitional feller gauges on on each side of the right one. use red and blue wire tie and tie them together. Thes will be your quick check cuages.

Buy an angle wrench for adjustment nut. or tool that is one piece so you can hold stem in place while tighten up nut ( see pic) motion pro.

Since the valve cover is removed make sure valve tip are flat and not angle on one side or the other. This is a ware indactor form the rocker( to much lift to soft or hard spring, bad valve seat). Some cams require hardend rocker and or different springs.

Spray feller gauge clean then wipe off before using. Oil changes things. I use a silacone lube on feller then wipe off.

After each valve is set make sure you still set on TDC (Top Dead Center). I set the rachet straight up so if it moves while adjusting it fall es over or is not longer perpadictulor. Then recheck all with proper guage and the one side larger quick guage for proper clearence.

Last tip, DRAG does not mean wear a dress while doing. Unless yor into that kinda stuff. It does mean it kinda suck to do thu. I said many times "this is a drag".


Attachments:
File comment: Its the "E" (10mm with slot)
400 ex valvle adjust 4.jpg
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 11:05 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I took it to the honda dealer to do this.. It was real bad out of whack so I am glad I did. This stuff had 1/4 inch of slop and this is why I was stumped... Thanks for the help.
Tomorrow I take it back to have them re-jet it. It is spitting out fire out the tailpipe... Not good here in this drought... I don't want to start a grass fire LOL


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 11:39 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
My throttle cable was mis adjusted so now I can ride it after the Tech at the honda dealer looked everything over... Always good to have a second set of eyes! Next I need to replace the exhaust gasket, as I think that is where my sometime backfire is coming from? And then try to figure out the kill switch/falloff switch.... It is grounded and a wire runs back to the battery area, but is cut short??? If I fall off I don't want to chase this thing across the desert LOL
I have some more bolts to replace for the Engine mounting and she should be ready to go somewhere...


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File comment: Some of the junk in the oil...
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 9:52 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
What I want to try to work on today is adjusting my shocks/suspension...
It is set up now for MX which I won't be doing much of, LOL I wasn't born with wings so I don't really need to fly like that! Ha HA
I have read that I need to tighten the preload to raise the quad up for more ground clearaance for off road/desert riding. This is presently set up with only about 1 1/2" -2" of shaft showing on the front shocks... The 450R shocks that are on the quad have works triple rate springs, but I have no idea how big a guy they were set up for was? I guess I need to figure out how to measure or read what spring rate these are and contact works to see if I need different ones or not... I want to tackle the front for now, as I am sure I will send off the rear to be re-valved by works for my fat Arse... (I have lost 20 pounds recently though!!!)

Were do I begin???


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 1:11 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Turbotexas wrote:
What I want to try to work on today is adjusting my shocks/suspension...
It is set up now for MX which I won't be doing much of, LOL I wasn't born with wings so I don't really need to fly like that! Ha HA
I have read that I need to tighten the preload to raise the quad up for more ground clearaance for off road/desert riding. This is presently set up with only about 1 1/2" -2" of shaft showing on the front shocks... The 450R shocks that are on the quad have works triple rate springs, but I have no idea how big a guy they were set up for was? I guess I need to figure out how to measure or read what spring rate these are and contact works to see if I need different ones or not... I want to tackle the front for now, as I am sure I will send off the rear to be re-valved by works for my fat Arse... (I have lost 20 pounds recently though!!!)

Were do I begin???


Anybody have a sugested starting point???


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 2:58 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
OK I started on the rears... There were 32 clicks on the adjusting screw??? Whew I had to get the nieghbors to come help count... (extra fingers)
So it is at the 1/2 way mark, and here are measurements on sag... don't know what I am shooting for just yet...
At the subframe above the axle to the ground

28" fully extended
23 inches with my 200# all the way back for full squat
with me sitting in position 25"
and at rest after I get off 27"
Doesn't seem like alot???


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 4:21 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
ok I measured the fronts...
30" lifted to full extension/droop
23 full bump
25 1/2" with me on it
27 inches at rest


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