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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 11:38 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Found some old patch welds and cracked frame! They forgot to erase the sharpie they used to mark this! Wow


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 11:41 am 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I can only post one pic at a time from phone!


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 11:59 am 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Here is the crack!


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 1:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
Posts: 2179
Location: East Peoria IL
i do not like the looks of that weld. Looks like the wire feed was set to fast and the welder not hot enough. The weld is just sitting on top of the crack - not a good burnin. compare it to the factory weld next to it. you can see the difference along the edges of the weld, the factory weld has edges burned in vs. the repair weld with round edges and the weld just sitting on top of the crack.

it will probably last - just keep an eye on it.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 1:38 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I am going to clean up the rust, and put a better bead on it!


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 3:00 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 12:48 am
Posts: 186
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Turbotexas wrote:
The filters are like that because these mikuni carbs have no lip whatsoever to let the filters catch! That is another thing that needs to be addressed when I get this home! Filters shouldn't be mounted to a carb without a failsafe method to keep them from falling off! Unless its not an off-road vehicle


Turbotexas wrote:
Then I will try to figure out a way to keep the filters from falling off! Not sure if I need to have a airbox built, or if the exposed filters keep the dirt out???

I run Uni dual layer POD filters mounted directly to my Mikuni carbs with no lip just like that with no problems so far. I have 5+ races and lots of riding time on this setup. It's not an unusual thing to do with sled engines. The filters don't weigh much so it's unlikely they will come off if secured properly. I thought of building an airbox, but I have limited room in my buggy and I don't want to make the airbox too small which could hurt Engine performance, so I will probably just leave them open. I have side panels around the Engine bay and a skid plate under it, so they are semi protected from direct mud and water spray.

Image


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 12:24 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I am kind of a "what if" rider... I venture many miles into the desert, and don't want to take the chance of the filters falling off because I hit a bump...
I have chicken wired the carbs filters on "just in case" and don't think they will ever fall off again... Eventually I will get some dial-a-jets for these too...
I spent the day looking for bearings and seals on the rear axle outer carrier hub... rust in them... for 2 bearings $175.00 each, 2 races at 75.00 each and one seal at 30.00... $530.00 ouch...
This setup didn't have a dust seal on the inside set of bearings under the big leather boot... I am hoping I can find a seal that will fit so these last another 20 years...
I got the front hubs all regreased, the cracked hub welded and new dust seals in them, the left rear I pulled apart yesterday and only needed to add grease, and the last axle broke my heart when I seen the rust!!! The parts are available just high priced!!!


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 1:30 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2007 10:52 pm
Posts: 510
Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
That's alot of $$ for a bearing :shock: , what up with that? What is the part #. what else do they fit?

Bob ::-:


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 9:45 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
badbob66 wrote:
That's alot of $$ for a bearing :shock: , what up with that? What is the part #. what else do they fit?

Bob ::-:

Not sure what they fit but I'm guessing a lot of the vw bugs and buggies used these axles!
Its a timkin #L623149


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 9:54 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Lol not the picture I wanted


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 12:53 pm 
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Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
outer seal is a national 45637s


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 2:09 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Rear shock dims! 22.25 eye to eye
7.25 shaft travel!
Aspect ratio
8.5 to 19.25


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 5:51 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Inner dust seal needs the same outer as the other seal, and an inside lip of 4.870" and no taller than .150
Who can find me one???


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 7:21 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 1922
Location: near NJ rider
How bad is the rust?

Are the rollers/races pitted?


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 8:26 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
bullnerd wrote:
How bad is the rust?

Are the rollers/races pitted?

It wasn't bad, just surface rust. I cleaned the snot out of them! 3 cans of brake cleaner each! Then doused them in pb blaster overnight!
The damage is all microscopic, I inspected the rollers with a microscope and didn't see any pitting! I took some fine steel wool and cleaned up the races! The fact that there was no dust seal bothers me! I wonder if somewhere down the line they were just never replaced? Hopefully I can find one with the above diminsions to prevent the next set of bearings from going bad! After seeing all the custom billet I don't see ed overlooking a seal? Unless he thought the dust boots would keep out the dust?


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 10:44 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Turbotexas wrote:
Inner dust seal needs the same outer as the other seal, and an inside lip of 4.870" and no taller than .150
Who can find me one???

the outer should be right under 6 inches... 5.950 I think it was... I will call the bearing shop in one of the neihboring towns... They are probably higher so I will spend a few days seeing if I can find a better price. At napa the seal was 28.00 and the seal was 275.00!!!
The inner seal area is what needs to be a min. of .150! This is how tall the lip is that sits over the bearings the outer rim can be .25"
I got the wheels back on! I need to clean up and dress up all the wires/ just ziptie them in place etc... Replace the horn and hopefully figure out why water temp gauge isn't working and then put the shell back on!
Thyen I have to learn how to drive it LOL not used to a steering wheel and pedals...


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 10:07 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Got most of the issues resolved... 12 days solid working on this...
more updates later!!!


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 2:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2007 10:52 pm
Posts: 510
Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
Good to see it back together.
Here is a link to the bearings you needed :-)

http://www.finditparts.com/t/categories ... &x=35&y=20


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 6:09 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2008 1:28 am
Posts: 708
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Hey Turbo,

would it be possible to see some footage of this running, please?

Not POV shots, but, shot from outside the vehicle.

Cheers. :-)


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 10:07 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
badbob66 wrote:
Good to see it back together.
Here is a link to the bearings you needed :-)

http://www.finditparts.com/t/categories ... &x=35&y=20" ."..

Thanks Bob!!!
I found the seals I was wanting for the inside of the carrier to cover the inside bearings! They will go into the car in a few weeks... I want to run this with the old bearings for a while and check condition again before I drop that much money!
PART NUMBER IS DICHTOMATIK TCM BRAND 48595TA-H
replaces 416167
http://www.dichtomatik.us/Products/radi ... Seals.aspx
Mozzy I will try to do that today for you and others... Maybe get the ody to follow me


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 10:28 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I spent most of yesterday trying to figure out why my EEE wouldn't start yesterday??? I could pull start it real easy, but the starter just wouldn't turn the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) over... My fear was I burned the starter up but there was no issues with it starting yesterday... I did have the lights running while I was driving, and after troubleshooting I found the horn or lights wouldn't even work... soooo... I went and snagged the Battery off of the Pilot, and replaced a ground cable that was corroded clear thru...
She starts right up now... I will place the "new battery" that came on the eee into the pilot and see if this was the issue or the ground wire was... I think it was the battery because I used the jumper cables to bypass the ground...
working on the brake bias adjustments today, this took vise grips to turn the knob so that was how long it has been...


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 10:23 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
mozzy wrote:
Hey Turbo,

would it be possible to see some footage of this running, please?

Not POV shots, but, shot from outside the vehicle.

Cheers. :-)

As requested!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w88_hJUK ... ture=feedu


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 6:16 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:14 pm
Posts: 1406
Location: Ma
I love the look of this bug Turbo...
nice score... how is the contol? steer with rear without issue... does it stick or push in the turns?
in video how much you holdin back? seems like it just wants to rip...
Steve


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 10:21 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
UPDATE... Again I had to fix the welding job that was on the EEE... I don't guess anyone ever rode it before I got it... I saw one video that brooks made, and assumed this was "done up" right... Once you see the pictures of the welding and the lack f penetration you will see what I mean... this is on the clutch side that broke loose again today. Same side I paid to have welded in Phoenix... That weld idn't break, but the rest did... Who ever laid down the welds made a pretty bead but when you weld a FLAT plate against a round tube, It appears you need to run more than one weld... I laid another bead on either side of the exsisting beads after clamping the plate to my my trailer... I didn't want it to warp from the heat of the welds...
After I finished welding it I went and painted it... Should have been done on initial install??? I had to remove the seat and fire wall and fuel cell to get this back in... It went in easier than I thought as far as getting the bushings and bolts stabbed. I suspended the Engine with 2 1" rachetting straps. I spent a good 2 hours trying to stab this, since I was by myself It was a chore... It got dark on me before I could get the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) lined up...I might need a second set of hands...
I will have to post the pic's from my phone...


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 10:42 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Pictures


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