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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 10:54 pm 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
One at a time


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 11:05 pm 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Some more


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 11:16 pm 
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OMG!


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 11:21 pm 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I have also replaced the rack and pinion boots with some I bought off ebay and had to modify them to fit... The way ed attached the rack to the ends was indeed unique. He tapped the ends of the go thru piece and custom made a bracket to attach the hiem end to it.
I also installed 2 dial a jets to the mikuni carbs. I hate makunis lol they are so hard to get these dial a jets drilled and tapped thru their small lip venturi???
I also wanted to find a fan temp switch. I can't rely on my memory to manually turn on a fan switch. I had to replace the liquid cooled auto-meter temp gauge. I had heck getting it to work, before I realized the radiator had to be grounded... I still need to clean up and loom all the wires now that this works


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 11:45 pm 
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Location: East Peoria IL
hey turb - what kind of welder are you using? If MIG they are no good for field welding (out in the open) as the wind will displace the inert gas and the weld is not shielded. if you want a wire feed you can buy flux core wire. You will have to clean the flux off after welding but you will get a weld that is shielded. just thought i'd mention that. I can not beleive the lack of penetration one that plate. How did it ever stay together??? :shock: The angle of the welding tip must have been low and pointing into the tube. I'm sure your getting to know that machine very well. Hang in there - your work will pay of with some seat time.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 11:50 pm 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
No I'm using the flux core... the welder has capibilities for the mig, but when I bought it it didn't have it... I need to find a cheap regulator eventually to have the gas... I am thinking it will keep the metal a little cooler???
rmesser wrote:
hey turb - what kind of welder are you using? If MIG they are no good for field welding (out in the open) as the wind will displace the inert gas and the weld is not shielded. if you want a wire feed you can buy flux core wire. You will have to clean the flux off after welding but you will get a weld that is shielded. just thought i'd mention that. I can not beleive the lack of penetration one that plate. How did it ver stay together??? I'm sure your getting to know that machine very well. Hang in there - your work will pay of with some seat time.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:09 am 
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Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
No I'm using the flux core... the welder has capibilities for the mig, but when I bought it it didn't have it... I need to find a cheap regulator eventually to have the gas... I am thinking it will keep the metal a little cooler???
rmesser wrote:
hey turb - what kind of welder are you using? If MIG they are no good for field welding (out in the open) as the wind will displace the inert gas and the weld is not shielded. if you want a wire feed you can buy flux core wire. You will have to clean the flux off after welding but you will get a weld that is shielded. just thought i'd mention that. I can not beleive the lack of penetration one that plate. How did it ver stay together??? I'm sure your getting to know that machine very well. Hang in there - your work will pay of with some seat time.



Great example of incomplete fusion but hey anybody can run a mig welder right, guy that made that weld probably learned by watching one of them shows he seen on TV.

No offense but your welds could use some help too :-) wish you were closer I would give you some help.

The gas will not make the weld or welding cooler in fact the gas will make the weld affected zone hotter you can verify this for yourself if you ever get the gas attachment, set the gas up like your suppose to get the heat and wire feed dialed in then make some welds then turn the gas flow way up and weld again see how much better it penetrates.

If you tack that up right and weld it with the proper heat and technique it will not warp and the welds wont break the two metals your joining together will become fused together as one, if the welds are done proper and the right amount of filler material is deposited then the weld affected zone will be stronger than the surrounding areas, many times especially with TIG welding people do not deposit enough filler material this thins out the base metal makes it weaker.

Worse comes to worse tack it up and send it to me I will weld for you and guarantee the welds will never break or fail.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:31 am 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I realize mine are not pretty!!! LOL But I do believe (pray) these will last... I layered the welds so as to completely penetrate both the tube and the plate... one of these days I want to go to a welding school...

Another thing I had to do recently was to re-modify the rear brake caliper's mounting bracket! The aluminum was treaked so bad the caliper was not lined up properly, which ate up a set of pads I just purchased... :shock: What I had to do was bolt the aluminum to a new metal bracket that would not bend... so far I can see a better braking response... The rears don't lock up so easily, more of a controled response!!!


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:50 am 
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Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
I realize mine are not pretty!!! LOL But I do believe (pray) these will last... I layered the welds so as to completely penetrate both the tube and the plate... one of these days I want to go to a welding school...

Another thing I had to do recently was to re-modify the rear brake caliper's mounting bracket! The aluminum was treaked so bad the caliper was not lined up properly, which ate up a set of pads I just purchased... :shock: What I had to do was bolt the aluminum to a new metal bracket that would not bend... so far I can see a better braking response... The rears don't lock up so easily, more of a controled response!!!



Maybe one of these days we can meet up with a welder and I can give you some tips that will help you with your welds.

Glad you have the brakes worked out one of the reasons autos went from drum brakes to disc was because of the control, I have owned a few cars that had drums on the front they stopped good but locked up easily.

Whats left to Turboize?

When is the next race or ride, before long fuel will be so high you wont be able to put gas in it lmao they say this spring gas will be 4 bux a gallon so looks like my next ride trip will most likely be around here some place, they say next December gas could be 5 bux a gallon if so I will be camping in the RV and riding in the back yard.... I need your job so strap a toy on the back of the work truck.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:07 am 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
next race is next weekend in California... I ain't sure if this will be ready??? The motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) plate put me a day and a half behind... Then the fact I have been turning down loads so I can get this done lol... If I get lucky and find a great load out there I will be able to attend... if not then Whiplash has there first race the last weekend of Jan...
to be "finished" turboizing lol I need to re-do the r&p boots... they are too long and causing a binding. I also need to see if there is a shim I can use to tighten up the r&p... Can't replace for fear of messing with the steering geometry???
New wheels and rubber, specially up front... 11" wheels and tires are impossible to find... I am going to go with 14" wheels in front thus I can either use a DOT tire or a UTV tire... depending on what I like better... The 15 inch rears are ok for nnow since I still have a little bit of tread left, but when that's gone, I don't know if I can find a dot tire with this low a profile???
I need to clean up the wiring I've added for lights and fan and add a blue light to the rear.
I also need to re-do the rear axles with the seals I bought to keep moisture and rust out as I live in Texas where it rains occasionally lol


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 12:00 am 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Heavy Engine was a booger to get lined up to stab the 4 bolts! After I got the fuel cell and fire wall back in I pulled the pilot seat out and tried to fit it in and it is too big... So I will keep the suspension seat till I find one I like better!
I discovered why I was having heck turning! The rack had a piece that the weld broke! I also turned around the top piece of the rack and it took away a lot of the slop!


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 11:43 am 
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Turbotexas wrote:
New wheels and rubber, specially up front... 11" wheels and tires are impossible to find... I am going to go with 14" wheels in front thus I can either use a DOT tire or a UTV tire... depending on what I like better...

Not impossible. I have 11" wheels on my buggy. I use Douglas .190 wheels, but I'm sure there are others as well. There is a pretty good selection of tires for 11" wheels, as long as you are looking in the 23"-25" diameter range. I currently have some Titan 489XT and GBC Dirt Devil II tires on my buggy. I do agree though it is not ideal and I would not do it again. If I were to build a new buggy, I would use 14" or 15" wheels with DOT tires for short course racing and UTV tires for GNCC type racing.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 11:54 am 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
JustMtb44 wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
New wheels and rubber, specially up front... 11" wheels and tires are impossible to find... I am going to go with 14" wheels in front thus I can either use a DOT tire or a UTV tire... depending on what I like better...

Not impossible. I have 11" wheels on my buggy. I use Douglas .190 wheels, but I'm sure there are others as well. There is a pretty good selection of tires for 11" wheels, as long as you are looking in the 23"-25" diameter range. I currently have some Titan 489XT and GBC Dirt Devil II tires on my buggy. I do agree though it is not ideal and I would not do it again. If I were to build a new buggy, I would use 14" or 15" wheels with DOT tires for short course racing and UTV tires for GNCC type racing.

Yea the wheels look like a douglas, and the 489's are all I could find in an 11" tire! What's on there now don't have much left either! The 489's are only a 2 or 4 ply! I haven't talked to douglas yet about the cost, but the hole pattern is a common golf cart pattern! The 15" rears will have to last awhile lol it is hard to find a good tread pattern in such a low profile!


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 4:45 pm 
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Turbotexas wrote:
Yea the wheels look like a douglas, and the 489's are all I could find in an 11" tire! What's on there now don't have much left either! The 489's are only a 2 or 4 ply! I haven't talked to douglas yet about the cost, but the hole pattern is a common golf cart pattern! The 15" rears will have to last awhile lol it is hard to find a good tread pattern in such a low profile!

Why do you need new front wheels? Or do you just want spares?

The Titan 489XT tires are 6 ply. There are several sizes for 11" wheels. I wouldn't say they are an awesome tire but they do work well and have proven to be pretty durable for me, no flats with them yet. Other tires also available in 11" sizes that I have considered before are ITP MudLites...Kenda Bearclaws and Kenda Bear Claw EX...GBC DirtDevil and DirtDevil II...probably lots more.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 10:55 pm 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
the tires I have on it now are wearing thin... Finding a good tire in a 11" size on short notice is why I want to go with a 14" wheel... PLus the little wheel up front doesn't seem to do much but float up above the ground most times...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Quadboss ... 4cf4a9f8bd
This is what I am looking at getting for a wheel...
I will have to check clearances fist once I recieve these, then I will have speedchaser make me an adapter plate... Much like rnrNick has on his triple eee
the wheels I am looking at are a Maxxis CERO with what I think will be a good tread pattern for both the front and the rear...
They make a 15" tire, so I won't have to hunt down a 14" rear wheel just yet...

On a Good not I spent the last couple of days testing the triple eee in Arizona... Worst issue is still have a bleeding tranny... The seal behind the clutch (one replaced by Brooks) is leaking again... there is also a leak from in front where the shift handle goes thru the cases... Hopefully just a seal???
I have added more rebound on the rear by setting them up on the 6th notch from all in... at 8 it was too bucky for me... I have bottomed this out only one or two times on the rear thick skid plate... I am hoping it is as easy as replacing the old rubber bump stops on the shocks... Soon to come off and go for a recharge and fresh oil...
Handle much better than I expected in the turns... tight turns takes a well planned tap of the breaks and I just sling right thru the ruff stull like I was on rails...
In the sandy washes the tires I have are useless... they just don't seem to have enough bite to pull me to the top... seems I was sinking the whole time...
I think I have most of the bugs worked out...
Need to find a low tewmp fan switch... The water temp off the head gets in the 200's real easy, but I am unsure of if this is the oem position for the temp switch, or if the fan switch went into this orifice???
I might have to route the fancy auto meter liquid filled temp gauge to the radiator... and find a fan switch that works off the head???

This thing is fun to drive...



JustMtb44 wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
Yea the wheels look like a douglas, and the 489's are all I could find in an 11" tire! What's on there now don't have much left either! The 489's are only a 2 or 4 ply! I haven't talked to douglas yet about the cost, but the hole pattern is a common golf cart pattern! The 15" rears will have to last awhile lol it is hard to find a good tread pattern in such a low profile!

Why do you need new front wheels? Or do you just want spares?

The Titan 489XT tires are 6 ply. There are several sizes for 11" wheels. I wouldn't say they are an awesome tire but they do work well and have proven to be pretty durable for me, no flats with them yet. Other tires also available in 11" sizes that I have considered before are ITP MudLites...Kenda Bearclaws and Kenda Bear Claw EX...GBC DirtDevil and DirtDevil II...probably lots more.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 11:52 am 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I have found an adjustable thermostat switch that works real well! Easy install and no issues on the first test/race! The biggest problem I had with the triple eee at the Arizona races was traction!!! My rear tires were worn down in the first days of riding at Desert Wells OHV area! They are just OLD... Looked good, but by the time I ripped a few miles with them poof...
http://www.google.com/search?q=maxxis+c ... 1I7ADFA_en
I am replacing them with these from Maxxis... A CEROS 26x9x15 These will be about the same hieght as I have now so shouldn't be much difference on tuning of the clutch (when I get around to it) They are about an inch wider than what I have now... I like the low profile to these which should keep the rear end from swaying so much...
After I get these installed I will start looking at front tires and wheels... Here is what I am likeing so far for tires...
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_c ... medium=cse
flat profile and almost as tall as the rears... only an inch taller than what I currently have...


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 12:08 pm 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Denis Kirk http://denniskirk.com had the best prices, but only had one... So I had to get a price match from someone else...
If you're looking for an 11 wide in a 15" Rocky Mountain http://rockymountainatv.com had them for 40.00 each!!! I almost went with them but they are to wide and short to fit on a 8" wheel...
They make the ceros in a smaller 12" that I might put on the front but I'm not sure yet... I need to source a good wheel first...


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 10:55 am 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
as usual with me a day late and a dollar short...
In researching tires I found these that might work too, in case I ever wanted/needed dot tires...
http://www.acmejeepparts.com/products/92611_1XX_PG.htm" .".." ."..

http://www.acmejeepparts.com/products/92610_2XX_PG.htm" .".." ."..

both come in a 27x9.5x15 which is 0ne inch wider than what I have...


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 11:11 am 
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Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
as usual with me a day late and a dollar short...
In researching tires I found these that might work too, in case I ever wanted/needed dot tires...
http://www.acmejeepparts.com/products/92611_1XX_PG.htm" .".." .".." ."..

http://www.acmejeepparts.com/products/92610_2XX_PG.htm" .".." .".." ."..

both come in a 27x9.5x15 which is 0ne inch wider than what I have...


Before you install those tires you need to double up on your brakes, more disc surface area more brake pad surface area.

You put those tires on your car then put the modified cut car tires on a identical machine the car tires are going to kick your ass big time.

Back in the racing hay days their was all kinds of small tires like that on the market like the 13" mini monster mudder for example nobody used them because of the WEIGHT!

You have uncontrollable wheel spin with the current tires, traction problems? If so try adjusting your clutching for a faster upshift?

If I was going to buy tires I would be buying the same tires they been using in the past but you know me I like proven products :-)


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 11:28 am 
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you're right I am sure the wieght would be something to deal with... the tire I have on there now is close to the same size... The picture above isn't the right size, the aspect ratio will be much smaller... I have already bought the UTV tire listed, the CEROS! Yes what I have now is worn thin, and causing way to much wheel spin! So much so I spun out of control several times in the last two races! like I was on ICE!!!
The "car" tires were great on the stadium courses! From the few people I have talked to the biggest (if not only) reason they used the car tires was because of the contingency money paid... not because they were any better!
I am more likely to be racing/riding in the desert so my tire choices will reflect that! If I ever find suitable wheels to fit the rear hubs then I will also buy some lighter wieght car tires and groove them for stadium/short course racing... But for now the flatter profile of the ceros tire is a good choice for where I am riding!!!


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 11:52 am 
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Turbotexas wrote:
you're right I am sure the wieght would be something to deal with... the tire I have on there now is close to the same size... The picture above isn't the right size, the aspect ratio will be much smaller... I have already bought the UTV tire listed, the CEROS! Yes what I have now is worn thin, and causing way to much wheel spin! So much so I spun out of control several times in the last two races! like I was on ICE!!!
The "car" tires were great on the stadium courses! From the few people I have talked to the biggest (if not only) reason they used the car tires was because of the contingency money paid... not because they were any better!
I am more likely to be racing/riding in the desert so my tire choices will reflect that! If I ever find suitable wheels to fit the rear hubs then I will also buy some lighter wieght car tires and groove them for stadium/short course racing... But for now the flatter profile of the ceros tire is a good choice for where I am riding!!!



Right they were not always better but the alternative tires were 2x heavier, you need to deal with exact weights not what something looks like, weigh each tire, search the web study up on I think its called unsprung weight (afastcar can help here) you add too much weight with tires and rims now your going to have braking problems and might have to start all over again with your shock settings, valving and spring rates.

My goal for your car would be to remove the tires and weigh them then when shopping for new tires buy one that has the closest weight to what you have I would not want to make any big weight changes unless I could lighten the new tires with a tire grooving tool like more racers do.

Who knows the tires your buying might weigh less than the tires you have installed the only way to find out is to weigh them.

For desert I would look at the tires the desert racers are using on the VW type buggies they have about 50 years of trial and error.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 11:57 am 
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Yea I love the old "mud grip" tires on the baja buggies... just can't find them in a 27" tire...
the wieght of the utv tires should be real close to what I have, when the show I will weigh both on my bathroom scales... I am debating on keeping the inner tubes in the tires...

hoser wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
you're right I am sure the wieght would be something to deal with... the tire I have on there now is close to the same size... The picture above isn't the right size, the aspect ratio will be much smaller... I have already bought the UTV tire listed, the CEROS! Yes what I have now is worn thin, and causing way to much wheel spin! So much so I spun out of control several times in the last two races! like I was on ICE!!!
The "car" tires were great on the stadium courses! From the few people I have talked to the biggest (if not only) reason they used the car tires was because of the contingency money paid... not because they were any better!
I am more likely to be racing/riding in the desert so my tire choices will reflect that! If I ever find suitable wheels to fit the rear hubs then I will also buy some lighter wieght car tires and groove them for stadium/short course racing... But for now the flatter profile of the ceros tire is a good choice for where I am riding!!!



Right they were not always better but the alternative tires were 2x heavier, you need to deal with exact weights not what something looks like, weigh each tire, search the web study up on I think its called unsprung weight (afastcar can help here) you add too much weight with tires and rims now your going to have braking problems and might have to start all over again with your shock settings, valving and spring rates.

My goal for your car would be to remove the tires and weigh them then when shopping for new tires buy one that has the closest weight to what you have I would not want to make any big weight changes unless I could lighten the new tires with a tire grooving tool like more racers do.

Who knows the tires your buying might weigh less than the tires you have installed the only way to find out is to weigh them.

For desert I would look at the tires the desert racers are using on the VW type buggies they have about 50 years of trial and error.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 12:08 pm 
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The only thing I don't like about tubes is the complexity of making repairs, sometimes tubes are the only thing that will keep the tire on a bead when you get a flat your done you have to remove the tube to repair the leak with a tubeless you can usually just plug air and go.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 12:14 pm 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
hoser wrote:
The only thing I don't like about tubes is the complexity of making repairs, sometimes tubes are the only thing that will keep the tire on a bead when you get a flat your done you have to remove the tube to repair the leak with a tubeless you can usually just plug air and go.

they make a slime product for tubes...
And they are a lot cheaper than beadlocks LOL


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 12:31 pm 
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Location: near NJ rider
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/off- ... em=MiniMag


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