Welllllllllll, I went and got the DCP pilot out of storage. Figured it was time to get it cleaned up to ride ,sale or part out.

Worked on fixing the bent frame, rework the bump steer, start going over all item in need of repair and maintenance.

Front shocks need rebuilt so ordered parts and mounted up a set of trx 450 shock untill done on rebuild of axis for shake done.

Removed clutches (drive and driven) found drive cracked so I reworked an old ALT and installed. I'll fix the HRD and reinstall. The ALT got re faced and shimmed to DCP specs.

Pumped out old gas put in new. Fired second pull yes battery is toast, ordered new one.

Sure wish we could get parts for the power block clutches.

Pic of crack

More pics
Had to move front clip over and straighten steering wheel stem.
Cut the frame in four spots and replace one cross tube lower under steering stem.
Then off to rebuild shocks

I also straighten up the cage while I was at it.
The cage and frame and cage was bent when I bought years ago and I bent it a little more since I owned it.

Nice work, those front calipers look massive. Type?

Thanks
05 trx 450r

That's extremely impressive.

Thanks
Off to garage today to clean up the rear.
Remove skid,check out rear brakes, axle shafts, trans seals, hiems on rear set up and uprights seals/bearings. Check Engine oil level and trans oil level. Then change fluids (oil). This way I can see if I had a leak or main seal out in Engine.

First glance it's pretty yucky and noticed some excessive slop in drive train with the e- brake on.

I see I have some work cut out for me.
Pics

Ouch!
Crack lower frame.
Trans seal right side ok
Play in rear brake caliper assembly.
Fix it first then move on.
Before and after movement numbers.

Slid pins good shape, drilled out and sleeved bracket.

Now address pad wear.
Check disc and repair if needed install new pads. Pin and pad hard wear ok

Check out play in disc.

Easy fix tighten up nut, trans bearings good.
Now to caliper and pad install.

Finished up caliper and time to move to the ouch. Cracked frame.

Just waiting on shock seals. Then I can assemble the axis shocks and be good to go.
Looks like I get tommorow off. Maybe start on wife's pilot.

Rich

Looking Good, glad to see ya back in the shop, wrenching....

"Sure wish we could get parts for the power block clutches."

What are you looking for - I bought a box of power bock clutch parts from Ludedude a few years back
I can dig thru it and most likely find what ya need...

Later
Dennis

Thanks D
I'm going to have it welded up and machined done once I find a reputable welder here to do it. I took an ALT and modded to HRD and then re shimmed the belt Clarence and spring for my preeload settings. If not I'll give ya a shout out. My other option is to one machined and then press parts into it. Hope not to have to go that route.

Just checked mail box and my seals showed up for my shocks so ill be working on them tommorow after I get some house work done.
It takes about an hour each to do.
Axis has a floating piston in the remote rezzi plus I have rebound adjusters so bleeding takes 20 min to get done. I made a tool to help bleed which helps with the rezzi. Then normal on shaft and a little extra work on the rebound.
Rich

I went and spent a few hours in the garage and worked on shock rebuild.
Pics

More pics

More pics

More pics

Last ones

Thank you for the quality content.

Your welcome
Since CO is MIA
I thought I would share so we all could get our fix. I did leave out a lot of content, time limited.
I will try to back track a little and add commentary.

The rebuild was only $80.00 for materials.
Seals,bumpers and oil.

Well I have some time to maybe explain a little on my shock pics.
So i set one up in my vise to start the fill process. The body,rezzy was set so as I fill fluid in the shock body gravity would start to fill the rezzy. Since I have adjusters on the rezzy (cans) , to start I set full open on both high and low speed compression adjusters.
Then I add fluid into the body and let it start to fill the rezzy under the pressure of gravity acting on the fluid. This aids in bleeding air from the line and adjusters between the two chambers.
For me this is step one on fill and bleed since I have compression adjusters on my rezzys.

If not I would only need to worry about air in the line between the the two tubs which a few cycles back and forth raising and lowering the rezzy and I transfer fluid back and fourth tapping on line so the air bubbles rise and disapate.
For me I would still hand power bleed using low vacume and pressure. More on that later.

Now I can work on installing my IFP ( internal floating piston) in the rezzy. If you look at the first pic you see a little fluid in the rezzy. If I put the IFP in at that state there a lot of air between the top of the tub and the fluid sitting in the bottom of the rezzy tube.
The goal is to have no air between the two with out a lot of bleed time. The IFP has a Bleed hole to aid in this as it is inserted into the rezzy. See pic below the IFP is the silver one at top. Look for the hole in side of the valve just below the o-ring groove. I turned these so the hole is visible in the pic.