I finally got out a did a little ridding to see how things are working on the DCP pilot. Ran a tank through it and man my arms and neck are sore. It's been like five years or so.
Some of the item I fixed needed a little tweaking.
I changed over the bump steer kit to a dual bearing idler and changed the location. I did maintain the bolt on set up. This changed the steering static setting. Another issue was the squeaky front suspension. It's now much much quieter. So far pleased with the results.

The modified drive clutch which was a combination of an alt and a hrd due to the movable drive face was cracked. I changed spring ratio for drive and driven. I also changed the spacing and few other minor things. This allowed me to bring the clutch in sooner at a lower rpm yet spool up before cycle two (step 2) of the drive. This allowed for 8450 run out. Pulled like a mule out of a corner. Any way, changed the spring pre load a touch more and changed the drive face clearance and like the way it runs out.

The hacker 89 exhaust worked well with minor adjustments. The bottom end was fat untill 5600 then hit hard all the way up to 8500. With my top end porting I would not recommend this exhaust set up with out a changing a few things.

The rear brake fix worked very well and so far so good. Still need to take apart and get fix pics. Since kuma did some pics I may not do for a while.

The front shock rebuild helped as whole lot with hitting hard corners and woops. I did change to a heavier weight oil so maybe a valve change can even make better. I did need to add two clicks of low speed and one click of high speed to the rear to get it moving level across the woops. It had a little rear kick that was not there before so a couple of clicks and good to go. Now I can power all the way though. I feel 48 mph at 8450 is ok with me for a pilot on utv woops deep sand using stock tires. This also may account for rear shock settings. The rear stock tires are much heavier than my sand tire of choice. I will need to go read my static data for that.

After washing it up and checking it over I had a few loose bolts and noticed my front right tire camber looked off. So I'd the wheel shake test and yep it had a wobble. This is the side that got bent and hit a razor at about 30. The upper hiem on the spindle had some play. This is an easy fix since I keep a spare. Fifteen minutes, $15.00 hiem and done. Now nice and tight again.

I also noticed a crack in the fender that was not there before so I pulled it and did a repair. The crack was from where the head light bolts on. For repair I remove, flip over use a piece of stainless steel wire mesh and use a flat soldering iron tip and melt into the plastic. This will prevent it from cracking futhure and leave the front side looking ok.

So prepped and ready go for a round two test.

Couple pics of the fender

Something is off with that 48 mph at 8450.
That doesn't pass the smell test.
CO

What stinks about it??
When I make the runs I check what my vapor says rest and re run. Guess I will need to stop and take pic before I reset.

Here is a few pics from past rides. I also included a pic on tuning this clutch. It as an effect on what I stated Above.

"The modified drive clutch which was a combination of an alt and a hrd due to the movable drive face was cracked. I changed spring ratio for drive and driven. I also changed the spacing and few other minor things. This allowed me to bring the clutch in sooner at a lower rpm yet spool up before cycle two (step 2) of the drive. This allowed for 8450 run out. Pulled like a mule out of a corner. Any way, changed the spring pre load a touch more and changed the drive face clearance and like the way it runs out. "

I welcome your thought CO.

You can see: Engine temp,Accumulated ride time, Max speed,Max rpm
Understanding the stages at which the drive CVT operates. Data shown and seat of pants feel It allows me to make adjustments for what I like the Engine to operate at. What is not shown is the The setting I use to Monitor the driving speed and RPM not just relying on the MAX numbers. I also have to presets in the vapor set for visual indicating lights that let me know I have reached a set rpm during the early stage(engagement over rev)on the CVT. I will post some sample pics of this for you to go UMMM or not.

Here is some pics taken from a video hope it helps

The pics show a throttle hit and the reaction time of the vapor It also shows how the drive clutch stages come in. With this info I can dial in what I want. I would like to Add I use 91 octane Gasoline in my Engine with HP-2 @ 32 to 1. I note this due to logged temps.

Hopefully this helps explain the effects of the drive per my base assembly since I was using a unknown set up to test then refine.

As always If I can answer any question you ave based on what I have done feel free to ask. FYI: there is a lot of ways to set up a power block clutch other than spring change.

I selected these pics out of a sequence of about thirty for that 2 sec burst. I Felt they were most relevant depiction of the BABBLE.

I "think" I now know what you are saying and have done.
In one of my threads you said my oddys were faster than your Pilot and I thought you were just joking around, so I called poo on that. I couldn't figure out how your machine was spinning over 8450 rpm and only going 48 mph.
Have you set up your machine for max launch/bottom end and lost some of your top end speed ??
CO

Here is a graph from my book to help put burst pics in relation to pahses(stages).

Don't worry when I get ready to do a payment run I will rest my clutch and shocks.
I have already made some that took it from wheel stand to wheel spin then lift front with miniumal spin and accelerate fixed rpm and over run.

I'm figuring out the new set up.

Most of what I ride in woods and sand.
When I find a place to do a drag race I'll set up and run. Then I'll see what it can do.

This is gona be very interesting.
I want to see a comparison between the oddy and Pilot on pavement.
If I have to I will run my brothers machine again at the airport.
CO

Pic of tire on aspfalt.
It really hard on my stock tires.
The fracture line is from getting a good bite.
F- was set 7750 so it should over rev to 9500.

After all it's a quarter mile run.

So to compete with your brother it will take a different F compared to yours.

What, you think I'm dragging my feet.
I just need to do my best to get your top speed and accerlations.

I will dig up another graph for you.
The woods set up I'm working on is for chasing quads. I have to set up the clutch to match a manual that shift thru 4 the gear.
If they hit fifth I got be ahead of them or they will run me down. The manual will have dips in the graph where my F is constant.

Hey adnoh when you do this asphalt speed test on your Pilot can you post one chart in the 0-60 thread in the tech section. Then we got this info in the same thread. THX.
CO

so glad to see you got it out and riding. I need to get some seals and put my Engine back together. might need a new fuel pump as well, the China brand Polaris pump might need an upgrade lol

Thanks Fully
Get it running I have to admit it feels pretty good.

CO
Off the trailer this morning same run. Much better. Need to make two adjustments I
And it should be there.
56 mph at 7900

So I need to change spacer on spring and moveable face, re shim driven spring and test again.

FYI: This is deep sand woop run.

I should be able to hit 58 to 60 @8250.i
Took a pic for ya it won't load where I'm at.

Ok better. Getting close.
63.7 mph @ 7950.

Take one weight out of pucks measure added shim to drive,add new half the thickness and re run.

This will bring the rpm up a touch then I can check rut out to over rev.

Yes I got pics.
Found a mud hole too. Yuck.
Running too fast thru trails.

Well last run of the day was not a total success. It started getting busy and could not full pull however close enough.
61.5 @ 8050

Ran a full tank through it and had no issues.
I feel comfortable with the results to set it where I would like it for different ridding area's etc.

You can see it. Does make a difference if you spend some time and dial thing in. Remember that I had a shot Hrd drive to start with then worked over the fixed and movable faces, re sprung and shimmed and changed pick around. So time will tell if eat a belt or two and if it holds up. As far as $$$ go just gas to ride and go to and from. The belt I used was an ten year old brand new cheap belt I bought as spares. They 20.00 a piece when I bought them. I figured why tear up my good ones until I'm sure this will work.
If your wondering why I shimmed the driven is due to belt squeeze during shift out. If I get it too tight it will over heat the belt, to loose and I loose accerlation from to quick of up shift.
The goal was to good belt squeeze with a steady shift out rpm. That will let you know which way to go. Shredding a belt will to.

I have data now for three set up as far as numbers for performance.

I'm home now so I can post some pics.

Some more fun pics

Few more
All cleaned up and ready to go into garage for once over. Planning pulling clutches and looking over for issue.

Pic of the belt and box.
I goggled them and there still available.
45.00 now.

Kinda cool the info on back of box

There we go .
At the time I called poo I didn't realize what you were doing.
Man you analyze shyte to death .
Great work.
CO

Thanks CO
I really had no choice since the clutches are not available and the one that can be got is about 450.00 by the time you get the parts with it. I have never messed with them so I bet I would be into it a grand by the time I was done. So nothing to loose but a new old belt.
I probably should have mentioned the relation ship to the post getting out of storage.
That is where I had talked about the hrd cracked. I will put a few more rides on the set up with this belt than break in a new belt and see how it goes.

If I get out to the garage today I will get out my box of belts and show some the different wear item related to tension etc.
I will use the box check list as a guide with the pics.

Then I will put numbers to the graph pic as they relate to my pilot. Then I can comment on drive set up and driven spring shimming.

Off topic I really like a cat set up fl670 has and been doing some looking around for a set to put on the pilot and play with. I will ask fl670 for some onsite on set up since I'm clueless with them. Time to learn something new.

Here is a pic of what I may use. I have hard copy info for this set up. Pay attention to the driven and the holes by the rollers.

Took some pics for fun to share on above Babble

more pics

More pics. We don't want CO finger to stink when he give's it the sniff test. All kidding aside the belts each tell a story. Each belt has a result and a fix. Like new Engine/trans mounts, new bracket that tie Engine and trans together, new driven spring, new drive clutch, alignment etc.
Now the box does not cover all items however I do find it useful. Then I can Tune the clutches for max performance and reduce drive train loss maximizing power trough efficiency. The pics posted show that gains can be made.

When I take the drive and driven off I try to do a write up on set up.

Is that an HRD driven clutch? Those shims look pretty slick. I actually shimmed my stock pilot Driven for the 600HO Rotax and its working well. Not perfect science but definitely ball-park. With ~120hp there is a lot of headroom for some loss lol.