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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2020 8:38 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Since a cold spell hit I thought I would do some bottom end maintance. Do a Engine tare down and check crank and install new bearings and seals and general parts. I have around 200.00 in parts as long as the crank is good. No big deal as I have two others and parts to rebuild two more using all factory honda.

Good news is the crank is good and with in spec.
With new bearing and seals is should tighten things up and seal it up tight. Piston and rings good. I will hone and install new rings any way.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2020 8:42 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
More pics
Cleaning up seal lip surfaces for new seals


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2020 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
More pics
Yes it gets all new o-rings as well
Hacker drive and driven tool come in handy again along with a cheap bearing driver set.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2020 8:47 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Few more


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2020 8:57 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Need to do some clean up or the rest of the parts and she goes back toghter.

I even going to replace the seal on the right side case where the pull start basket is. This seal fits many machines and is cheap.
Don't want an oil leak there. This area get pretty dirty since it has ventilation slots in the case.

I also did a little crank thrust checking and alignment. This has an effect in relation with case parallelism.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2020 2:44 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Went out this morning and lap up the cases in prep for crank pull (install).
All dowel pins installed and checked crank end play number and compared to crank.

I do this as with any new or rebuilt crank to be sure there is no fitment issue with the crank, bearing and cases.

When you pull the crank you do the clutch side first and this side has the dowel pins in the cylinder to help center things up. Then any remaining crank to bearing side clearance is on the right side case.

This is why when you buy a pilot you do a push me pull me on the clutch. If it moves excessively something's loose. Most likely bad bearings or bearing slipping in the case.

This caused by several issues to many to talk about in this post.

So what I do is set this as not to have another issue compound another and so on.

This is not really necessary and most likely I'm there only one that does it. It is not common practice for sure. It very time consuming to do so. Since I run high revs for a long time I just like to do it.

Here is some more pics.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2020 2:47 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Couple more pics than back to garage for clean and crank install.

When I set this I use a pair of set up bearing get the movers and then install the news ones install gasket dry and do a dry fit and check.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2020 8:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Finished assembly, air tested and ready to install tommorow.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2020 8:12 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
More pics


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2020 8:14 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
More pics


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2020 6:57 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
It's all back toghter and running.
Had to make a air adjustment on jetting.
Did a couple heat cycles,brought it up to operating temp and did a short quick hit.
I also replaced the rubber boots on the starter wire since it was tore.
Also did a little work on the drive to dial it in.
I now have the drive, driven and Engine at where I like it. It operating within port specs.
Had a hard time keeping the front down. It just wanted to wheel stand if with a rolling start.

So off to the rear shocks for a little work.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2020 12:28 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 29, 2010 12:53 am
Posts: 1432
Location: Norco, CA
very nice and productive weekend!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2020 9:34 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Went thru the rear shocks today.
Man they needed an oil change. I re valved them while I was at it. Doing a spring change as well going triple rate zero preload set up. Changing the ride height and going to a 45% sag. This should allow it to take set quicker in the woods.

Going to test tommorow and then see what needs changed.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2020 3:15 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
What a nice day


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2020 5:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7701
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Only one pic of your riding area ??
You cheap bastard :-) . Lets see that lake and area.
CO


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2020 8:55 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Well I'm for sure a cheap guy.
While I was there that is all I could up load. Bad service.

Ended up riding two machine hours.
New bottomed end rebuild and re ring, Engine ran well. The rear shock valving was hit and miss.
It's a different area than before so I did some adjustments to dial in. Plus the Misses was in attendance. We rode 20 hard wooded miles and some beach front. It was rocky deep trials some were eight feet deep with steep sides. I liked them just gun it and the bike finds it own way. There was also a rock wash which I headed up pulling wheel stands and jumping my way up. Now that was a little different. The motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) cycle guys I think we're kinda in ahh. They stoped at the top watch me make the run shacking there head.
Any way did take a couple more pics of the wooded beach area of the lake. I gotta take the go pro next time. Setting the bike up for this type of ridding is for sure different than the dune set up. The clutches ran well, got the rpm set at 8630. No good place to open it up for a long section. May set the upshift to happen just a little sooner for that area. To do this I will take a little shim out of the drive spring. I got the driven down shifting good for that area. Best part no burnt belt or shives.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2020 9:42 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
Wow looks great admoh! I haven’t opened up a pilot Engine yet but I’m sure I will one day. I have been under the impression that there are several special tools to rebuild a pilot Engine & Looks like you have a few special/custom tools to do so. Do you mind sharing exactly what they are & used for.

That is a nice riding spot! Most the sand spots near me have been closed to riding for some time. I still go there now and again until the cops chase us out or dem shows up. Neighbors don’t like the noise.

-Curtis


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2020 10:21 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
I sure can can share. The only tools you need to buy is the fly wheel puller and a motion pro case splitter. The splitter is one used for all types of cases. The flywheel puller is pilot specific.
The rest I made being a cheap guy. The crank puller is a must to do it right. The crank adapter is a nut welded to a piece the puller bolt can screw into and cut bolt that fits the crank. I cut a socket and welded a adapter to torque the big nut. I did the math for the length and adjusted the value. When I get back in town I'll do a better write up on all the parts. I like the crank adapter in case of a rut ru no damage to the crank. Plus it can be used for other things on the pilot. Like breaking loose the rear arm using the ball joint tool ad no to damage the stud. The puller tube is a left over pieces of pipe and a hand grip. The other parts are from several pullers I have. The large bearing separator is also a must. I like to pull the bearing instead of pressing it off again as not to damage crank. Put all stress on the bearing your going to replace.

As far as ridding area's the primary test site (see first pic). The new ridding area is a 10 mile loop on a island. Goya admit it's pretty cool. Supposed to be limited to 52" however my 63 inch wide scraped through the gate leaving some black marks on the poles. My bad!
I took some google earth pics to share.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2020 10:23 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
More pics


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2020 10:35 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Here is a couple pics of my test area. The first is a roller section and the second is a whooped section.

You can zoom in on the pics to see them better.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2020 9:23 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2012 5:39 pm
Posts: 682
Location: Sacramento
So cool you have those skills. Looks like a good time and to have the mrs. with you is a bonus for sure. I am always impressed with you guys that can tear down these engines and rebuild them. Where do you get all the new seals and gaskets, etc... from? what I've been reading some are impossible to find and when you can you'll pay through the nose for them.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2020 1:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Yes, I agree having the wife being able to ride with me make for a great day. She has been ridding since 1982 starting with an 82 odyssey then 85 Odyssey then 90 Pilot. Needless to say we logged some hours.Now that wee a little older we ride and rest have some BBQ and ride some more than go home and recuperate.

As far as skills go its backyard hacker skills from not being able to pay to have stuff done. I learned or a very early age to work on my own stuff. Bicycle to lawn mowers etc. As with everything the more you do it the more you learn sometimes the hard way.

As far as parts go they are getting harder to find. I have been lucky so far as to find replacements from other engines cars trucks etc and ten there other board members that go out of there way to help and post links etc. Thanks to "H" for this site as maintaining thee machines would be hard to do with out it. Plus it allows us to share with others our passion for these machines.

I have found when locating parts it pays to take the time and talk with suppliers and explain the need. Most are very positive as they have a passion for there favorite activities away from work. An example of this is factory sponsored racers and there shops. I have found many parts that way and learn a few things along the way. Heck Penske racing even takes the time to talk with me about stuff. They have told me they like people that think outside the box so it catches there interest. If you call them during off peak racing time one would be surprised the wealth of knowledge they will share. I even hit the local shops, I been able to establish relationships with Engine builders, shock builders and chassis builders. Its amazing how they will take the time to share. Plus I enjoy tinkering when I can.


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