This must of been what happened to my race car:
Anti-roll (sway) bars
Which brings us to anti-roll/sway bars. A sway bar is a torsional spring (a fancy way of saying, “a spring that works by twisting”) which connects the suspension on one side of the car to the other. When the car goes over a bump and both sides compress, the bar simply rotates in its mounts and doesn’t add anything to the mix. However, when going around a corner, the outside suspension (which is compressing), now exerts a compression force on the inside spring (which is trying to extend) because the sway bar connects both sides, and this force resists body roll. So we have managed to reduce body roll without affecting bump compliance!
But of course, a problem arises. The stiffer the bar, the more weight is transferred across that axle, and the less grip that pair of tires makes.
This is a critical point to understand! When we use a stiffer sway bar, we increase the proportion of roll resistance on that end of the car, which (we established as a general rule) increases the weight transfer on that axle. We do not change the total amount of weight transfer across the entire vehicle, but we take some additional weight off that inside tire and distribute it to the other 3. This means we reduce grip for the pair of tires when we use a larger sway bar.
So, while there are good reasons for
using larger sway bars, we must recognize that it always
comes with a loss of grip on that axle.
In my case on the race car, removing the sway bar link increased my grip.
So is chassis twist really that bad on an oddy ??
It's (suspension) a very complex subject.
And how do we take into account that we run balloon tires ??
Taken from this site:
https://www.beyondseattime.com/weight-t ... ll-part-2/CO