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PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 5:53 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 2858
Location: Wichita ks
By chance did ya notice my favorite tool laid out, Ya the red and white near the end of the crank. Tobey was nice enough to read the measurments for me. My vision was impared. This is why I,am ready to assemble and not assembled. I was think of the time trills. I think a PPE and OKC shoot out is in order. I'll set up the course at LS if you want to have some fun. I'll bring the pro wedges, orange cones and the red and white tools.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 11:21 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I see how well you staged the photo, but you have the first picture all wrong??? The tab opening is facing the wrong way!!! LOL I am up for challenge, but your red and white tools gives me the runs!!! I used to be a silver bullet man!!!


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 11:33 am 
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Posts: 2238
My favorite kind of beer...somebody else's! LOL

Hey Adnoh, where did you get the run out equip?(V-blocks and gauges?)

Gary


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 12:55 pm 
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Posts: 2858
Location: Wichita ks
The can was a test to see who was paying attention. You win this round. Whats up with the siver bullet refrence. You 350 guy stick together or what ( cw,s ride ). Also don't you think the can being backward fitts why personally, get it. In most of my pics theres a find waldo thing going on. "H" pick up the chamfer on port of the wore cylinder and piston ware aka lots of hours. Ya I,am keeping score. A teacher once told me it's not what you see but what you don't. The tools came from a local businees called THE BIG TOOL STORE. Its a place that sells what you can't find anywhere else and backs it with a you break it I'll replace it. I buy my trailers and equipment tools from him. The v- blocks are made by a local machinenest and he sales them $12.00 He even offers a bigger set that's magnetic locked. I just had to file the rough edges off and smooth up a little. The bore,mic,calipers, degree wheel and telo mics came from local race shop HALLS SPEED SHOP a little place supporting racers for years. I have used him since my first holley on my 71 GMC Jimmy. If its holley,msd it the place to go. He offeres a bore gage for $89.00 that's reads up to 6" This owner knows he stuff. I enjoy a 1/2 hr talk with him every time I go there. I like to build relation ships with who I do business.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 12:15 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3177
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Someone bring the Fosters Lagar and we can have Red White and Blue tools, Kinda patriotic. Ha! I prefer the Silver tool myself, must be a FL350 thing,or a "bullet" thing. Cones,wedgees, beer....things you find in a boob bar?? Adnoh when are U coming "down". Havnt used the compression tool yet. I "looked" at the piston and rings when pipe was pulled, they were shiney and dirty! In other words I didnt know what I was supposed to be looking for. Anyhow I posted the following at my Digitron Set Up post...
After relocating the EGT probe 2-1/2 inches from the end of the pipe, which comes to about 5 or 6 inches from the piston,depending if measuring from the top part of exhaust port or bottom. Now the probe is in between the 2 springs just above where the springs attach to the end of the pipe. Before I relocated the probe, I ran 5 small pulls, the length of the pull would not allow me to get to WOT (Wide Open Throttle) before having to brake so I didnt haveto brake in the middle of the tennis courts. Pre probe relocation test pulls consisted of, warmed up motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) for 5 minutes, ambient temperature was about 70 degrees,first 5 pulls, EGT was showing 1250 @ 700rpm. After relocating the probe, warmed up motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) for 5 minutes, ambient temperature was about 75 degrees,first 5 pulls, EGT was showing 1060 @ 700rpm.Ill have to take it to L.S. to run some long pulls and see what my reading are there. Also just a note my water temp never reached 150,temp probe is located 5 inches from outlet on head as reccommended my CW "weed".


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 11:20 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 2858
Location: Wichita ks
Good info and good read. Do you find it interesting how the closer the probe to the heat source the cooler the temp. Now the temps within pramerters time to do plug reading and jet then use the reading as guide to preformance of Engine like "H" mentioned. I touched base on cylinder stuffing and the fact that part of the intake charge is lost in the pipe. You now see this effect in your reading do to placement of probe. Cool uh. Just think if there was a why to increas this effect and the effect it will have on HP at a given rpm range. Really cool no pun intended. Add an expansion chamber (pipe) that takes advantage of this and wow more power at diff rpm range( broder and high peak power). I feel the power! Seat of the pant feel than add a little more intake charge. now your really feeling it. Rejet and way cool. You now are felling the need for speed aka clutch kit. I could gone on for hours. It's nice to see you getting a good handle on the odysse. By chance did you shut off pump with new probe location and take reading to compare to orignal base line. I like info. I'am like 5 alive need more input. For the yonger group it was a robot with a need to learn a early tech movie. Note compression plug heat range, main jet and neddle setting. Also get mid range ( 1/2 to 3/4 throttle setting)egt reading. The reason for this is your tire choice. Before you had to run from idol to WOT (Wide Open Throttle) now you have more throttle control and more time will be spent in the mid range. I calll this rolling throttle. A lean mid range will effect lubracation and heat on the crown which could take the edge off the piston. This is refered to mid range lean. This happens when the cylinder stuffing and squish band gases are weak in strenght. This can easy be avoided by riching up the mid with a needle adjustment or a different neddle taper. This is the taper transition as it it lifted out of the main jet tube. This regulates the amount of fuel mixing wiht the air as the vacum in the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) pulles it thru the carb at a given opening position of the slide. The cut away on slide also has an effect but the neddle is in most case cures the problem. "H" has some good read on jetting. Sorry starting to babble again. One final note to lean bad to rich it stumbles. Always start fat and work your way down. This the reason for plug readings.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 12:08 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3177
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Whew...Input, Input, Input need input, no dissassemble !...Good stuff. No pun intended! Allright more tinkering ahead. I need to read up on jetting. I thought about "diassemble"ing the water pump(disconnect power) but thought the water might have a hard time making it through the impeller that is not moving, could have installed a coupler but ribs hurting and wanted to get job done. Oooo new pipe, more HP,speed. If I get a pipe soon should I still get rolling throttle jetting set correctly, what about idle and WOT (Wide Open Throttle). I will need to rejet after pipe mod. Guess I need to read up. I am really dreading getting to this jetting stuff. I have never messed with carbs except for a kit and or a cleaning here and there. Oh well the price you pay for speeeeeed!...


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 2:47 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
stix9567 wrote:
...I am really dreading getting to this jetting stuff. I have never messed with carbs except for a kit and or a cleaning here and there. Oh well the price you pay for speeeeeed!...


You will dread rebuilding a motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) even more!!! That is more experience than I had coming into the game!!! LOL


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 3:23 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22133
Location: Chicago
stix9567 wrote:
Whew...Input, Input, Input need input, no dissassemble !...Good stuff. No pun intended! Allright more tinkering ahead. I need to read up on jetting. I thought about "diassemble"ing the water pump(disconnect power) but thought the water might have a hard time making it through the impeller that is not moving, could have installed a coupler but ribs hurting and wanted to get job done. Oooo new pipe, more HP,speed. If I get a pipe soon should I still get rolling throttle jetting set correctly, what about idle and WOT (Wide Open Throttle). I will need to rejet after pipe mod. Guess I need to read up. I am really dreading getting to this jetting stuff. I have never messed with carbs except for a kit and or a cleaning here and there. Oh well the price you pay for speeeeeed!...


http://pilotodyssey.com/BillGivensjetting.htm


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 7:12 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 2858
Location: Wichita ks
The sooner the better. If you start tinkering you will need to get a handle on jetting or youll spend a lot on parts. Plus it will expand your knowledge base. I usally hate hearing knowledge is power( I want to just smack them when I hear it ) but in this case it's true. Not just some ego trip. I prefer knowledge is fun. "H" provides a good read on jetting take it to heart. Your motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) will thank you and you get to say oh ya I,am feeling it. P.S. Enjoy the head ache to go along with the sore ribs. I like ribs, sounds like barbague tonight for dinner.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 7:39 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 2858
Location: Wichita ks
Turbo may have named you Odysse. "Dred sled 1" or DS1 for short. PPE and DS1 at LS for smoe TT ( time trills) throw in some twins ( tigers), Later D ( fl670) and a little "H" as the BYH watches now where having fun . Couple more cold one and look out. Turbo is right though Jetting is cheaper than a rebulit motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). Mine up to a grand and still climbing. A jet is what $1.50.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 10:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3177
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Ok ya'll talked me into it...MUST JET!! Hoser made me read this... http://pilotodyssey.com/BillGivensjetting.htm . Excellent read although I wish there were pictures, pictures are good,I like pictures,I NEED pictures. DS1..Ill have 2 retrofit some tracks and skis on the "sled" or how bout a snowmobile motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )), no??, ok maybe later. Ok enough fooling around. I need yoos guys input on the following... Ok for starters I will be removing the carb and replacing the boot from the carb to intake as I have heard these crack and that sucks, no pun intended,next I will "disassemble" the carb and clean all passageways with carb cleaner and compressed air, then I will set the float level. Ok should I replace anything else, like maybe a carb kit, I have heard some kits are inferior. So any recomendations on brands of kits, Randys stuff? Ok next wil l be setting the....

Idle to about 1/4 throttle, pilot jet and air/fuel adjusting screw per article

then....

1/8 to about 3/8 throtle by the slide valve cut away.
(Ok heres where I get confused,now the "article" says "a number
6 slide has a 6 MM cut away and a richer number 5 has a 5 MM cut away", now should I just leave this were it is, be it a 5 or 6?

then...

1/4 to about 3/4 throttle needle jet and jet needle.
(Ok, do I pick up an assortment of needle jets, if so, what sizes to start off with.I think my jet needle's clip ring was set at middle groove so I should be ok with it, right?
Havnt quite grasped these setting but am working on that

then...

5/8 to WOT (Wide Open Throttle) main jet.

(Havnt quite grasped the main jet setting but...Should I get an assortment of main jets also?

BTW my carb is a Keihin.
Also give me some input input input guys, and please Adnoh keep it simple so us S'eiko can understand:)


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 12:10 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 2858
Location: Wichita ks
I like that personal touch. Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 3:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22133
Location: Chicago
stix9567 wrote:
Ok ya'll talked me into it...MUST JET!! Hoser made me read this... http://pilotodyssey.com/BillGivensjetting.htm . Excellent read although I wish there were pictures, pictures are good,I like pictures,I NEED pictures. DS1..Ill have 2 retrofit some tracks and skis on the "sled" or how bout a snowmobile motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )), no??, ok maybe later. Ok enough fooling around. I need yoos guys input on the following... Ok for starters I will be removing the carb and replacing the boot from the carb to intake as I have heard these crack and that sucks, no pun intended,next I will "disassemble" the carb and clean all passageways with carb cleaner and compressed air, then I will set the float level. Ok should I replace anything else, like maybe a carb kit, I have heard some kits are inferior. So any recomendations on brands of kits, Randys stuff? Ok next wil l be setting the....

Idle to about 1/4 throttle, pilot jet and air/fuel adjusting screw per article

then....

1/8 to about 3/8 throtle by the slide valve cut away.
(Ok heres where I get confused,now the "article" says "a number
6 slide has a 6 MM cut away and a richer number 5 has a 5 MM cut away", now should I just leave this were it is, be it a 5 or 6?

then...

1/4 to about 3/4 throttle needle jet and jet needle.
(Ok, do I pick up an assortment of needle jets, if so, what sizes to start off with.I think my jet needle's clip ring was set at middle groove so I should be ok with it, right?
Havnt quite grasped these setting but am working on that

then...

5/8 to WOT (Wide Open Throttle) main jet.

(Havnt quite grasped the main jet setting but...Should I get an assortment of main jets also?

BTW my carb is a Keihin.
Also give me some input input input guys, and please Adnoh keep it simple so us S'eiko can understand:)


Pics? this help ? http://pilotodyssey.com/carbtuning.htm

Why do you think you need a carb kit? I would not replace any of the carb parts unless you can prove something is wrong with them.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 12:58 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3177
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Another good read. As far as I know there is nothing wrong with the parts in my carb. Ody runs fine just want to fine tune jetting to reduce future problems. I thought since I would have the carb apart checking the float level, I might replace any worn parts, but if ther are no worn parts then I guess just replace gaskets? I have noticed some carb gaskets can be used again, seems like the rubber ones are sometimes salvageable. I always like to replace gaskets reguardless when I have something like that apart. SHould i get a gasket kit, or if not available, get a carb kit with the gaskets included?BTW thanks Hoser,Turbo and Adnoh for all ya'lls help.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 1:37 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
No one suggested pulling carb apart!!! (maybe I fell asleep in class) but we want to get you in the habit of reading and checking your spark plugs... there might not be a damn thing wrong with the jetting? Didn't you get these from Toyman? they are likely to be just fine, BUT you still need to develop the habit/skill of reading a spark plug!!!


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 2:05 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3177
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Turbotexas wrote:
No one suggested pulling carb apart!!! (maybe I fell asleep in class) but we want to get you in the habit of reading and checking your spark plugs... there might not be a damn thing wrong with the jetting? Didn't you get these from Toyman? they are likely to be just fine, BUT you still need to develop the habit/skill of reading a spark plug!!!


LMAO!!I don't think you fell asleep and I just hope you werent behind the wheel of 18 wheels if you did, NO DOZE! The Ody I am currently talking about I got from Toyman, he actually said it was jetted correctly, but by the same token he couldnt figure out why the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) was running high EGT. Ended up just being a relocation of the EGT probe. Not knocking Toyman, I have heard a lot of good things bout him from everyone and probly just an overlooking on his part about the probe. Anyhow, about the carb, read the first part of this article,makes sense. http://pilotodyssey.com/BillGivensjetting.htm I wanted to start with a clean slate by checking the float level, carb boot, gaskets etc. You will find sometimes, not all the time, if I start some project, I seem to have this bad habit of "over-do-ing it". ALthogh sometimes that's a good thing. Both my Odys performed well at L.S. on my last two trips, maybe not the fastest but no hiccups and I owe it to some serious preventative maintanace I did on them last winter, plus its a Honda. anyhow enough rambling... I probably wont do a complete carb cleaning just yet but gearing up for when it starts to get hot. Good read .I will do some easy plug chops to get the ball rollin...Marc


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 2:17 am 
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Posts: 3177
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
BTW Turbo are U going to be able to make the Little Sahara Ride end of month. I will be there on Saturday 4/26th


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 10:26 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
stix9567 wrote:
BTW Turbo are U going to be able to make the Little Sahara Ride end of month. I will be there on Saturday 4/26th


I am planning on it... but it's hard for me to commit... that's what I tell the GF lol


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 10:34 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
no doze will tear your stomach up... coffee or sweat tea for me!!!
I am just the opposite, if it ain't broke don't fix it...LOL

stix9567 wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
No one suggested pulling carb apart!!! (maybe I fell asleep in class) but we want to get you in the habit of reading and checking your spark plugs... there might not be a damn thing wrong with the jetting? Didn't you get these from Toyman? they are likely to be just fine, BUT you still need to develop the habit/skill of reading a spark plug!!!


LMAO!!I don't think you fell asleep and I just hope you werent behind the wheel of 18 wheels if you did, NO DOZE! The Ody I am currently talking about I got from Toyman, he actually said it was jetted correctly, but by the same token he couldnt figure out why the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) was running high EGT. Ended up just being a relocation of the EGT probe. Not knocking Toyman, I have heard a lot of good things bout him from everyone and probly just an overlooking on his part about the probe. Anyhow, about the carb, read the first part of this article,makes sense. http://pilotodyssey.com/BillGivensjetting.htm I wanted to start with a clean slate by checking the float level, carb boot, gaskets etc. You will find sometimes, not all the time, if I start some project, I seem to have this bad habit of "over-do-ing it". ALthogh sometimes that's a good thing. Both my Odys performed well at L.S. on my last two trips, maybe not the fastest but no hiccups and I owe it to some serious preventative maintanace I did on them last winter, plus its a Honda. anyhow enough rambling... I probably wont do a complete carb cleaning just yet but gearing up for when it starts to get hot. Good read .I will do some easy plug chops to get the ball rollin...Marc


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 10:45 pm 
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Posts: 2858
Location: Wichita ks
Seam like stixs is a hands on guy. He alredy came up with a way to get it to run cooler on egt by adding a few goddies. Then relocted the probe to get it to read with the consinces of the boards. Not bad for some one that just got his hands on one. His thist for knowledge I feel should be feed. Yes plug reading and learning jetting is important to enhance ones knwledge on one machine. Does his carb need a ove haul probley not the knowledge gained by taking it a part and putting back together would enhace his abilty to coralate the reading with accual experience. He would gain the abitlity to set floates log what pats are int he carb and how it works. We or I know when I order a carb I tell tell supplier the specs I'amm running and then they build it to meet those specs as close as one can with out putting it in use. Than it's up to me to determane what to do next. Does it idol after warmed up or does it surge, Idol not wanting fall back or stall. Without knowing the setting of the air screw and pilot jet size and location idol speed in rpm what would I do most likly a lot of phone calls. Is it plugged or just need adjusted or does the pilot jet need changed. What if the compression was droping does this make a diff on the idol circuit just how does vacum change effect flow. Wiht out a base line one might start to mess with it before checking out first base line compressin, than air density or if just the air filter is dirty. In sake of keeping it simple I will not bring air density into it. Most modified Engine require a air scew adjustment as the density changes which also effect mid and top end jetting as well. That is why the common rule is run fat until in stumbles than drop one. If no ever got there hands dirty cleaning there air filter what would they learn. Stixs I feel wants to take it to next level. For discussion sake only lets take a exaple in to play in requards to stixs odysse. First he was worried it was running hot do to the probe location. So he found a way to lower this number by increasing collent flow and the thermal displacment which has an effect on the barrel swell and decreasing clearences. I metion the barrle swell because I bet it has a wisco in it. I will touch on this in later in my motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) build and what and how it effected in relation to clearences.Now hes running cooler which could allow him to increas power. If some one jetted his motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) to egt and the egts were off on the high side he would be loosing effect HP. know lets take that he decress load on the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) by using a tire that help mechinal effency of the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). Could one conclude that the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) could be rejetted create more thermal loading in porpotion to the thermal decrease in effect and take advantage of the added HP. now that we increas effective HP to the thermal load on the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is the clutch now asking for more load to keep it from over reaving. If so the gain of runout decrease in thermal load would produce a more effencent Hp and increased preformance. Rember it's only theory. The only way to tell it to do the work. If the probe locate is now giving an accurate reading to the jetting he should be able to use it as a guide building a chart compareing the # to changes. Example would be . 1200 at WOT (Wide Open Throttle), 132 main jet 3rd neddle position, plug dark brown, 9 heat range and a run out of 4.5 ", note slow transition to top end mid range stumble. By logging #s and using line chart to daduce what change and the effect would have. Now I dudce a neddle change is nessary first to get ride of stumble. First rule always go fat. Lower clip to full down position raising the neddle to in most transition taper. If it get better but still stumble than change taper( change neddle). If it get worse than raise clip to top position lowering the neddle taking it to a leaner conditin than If the stumble goes away than raise on positon at a time untill it stumble than drop one. Now that the stumble is gone re run plug check and run out #s and log with the egts #s. now look at the line chart you will see a change in the mid line curve and a longer line form at the end. I will leave plug reading out for now due to keepin it simple. Knowing the basics looking for a tan plug reading. The second run after mid range adjustment and plug is still dark brown a main jet adjustment is in order or is it. Reading first part of scenario one there was no mention of top end blubber, this would lead one to think the main is ok. This is a safe bet but why is the plug dark brown. Could I go leanner and look for tan. Maybe but I would bet egts would raise. Is this a safe levle after all I'am now on the plus side of base line. One problem with dark brown would be carbon build on piston crown and in the probe location of the pipe up which could lead to detenation and flow restriction after time. I refer to this as carbon kills. How could we achieve tan and keep egts at bay. Rember the run out measurment this is where they come into play. Would less clutch load have an effect? or is it just a result of output?. Stew on that for a while. Hint look at your line chart. Hint two fuel cools. I would look at the intract lenghts and restrictions if any. An simple increase in air flow and rpm would resolve the issue. Sorry may have gone to far with that one. Just want to get yor heads movingin a diff direction than normial. Back to the carb. A good rule of thump like "H" says unless your looking for every inch out it WHY. Plese rember this is only discussion at to be used as a guide. I'am just a back yard hacker. Stix if you want to tare one apart and clean up and play with I will bring you one that was taken off a pilot and not touched. It will alow you to get aquated with out tareing your apart for now. Gota go, I need to get my home work down. Man I hate binary #s


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 10:52 pm 
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Posts: 2858
Location: Wichita ks
Sorry stixs I should done some reading of my own and been more clear. In most cases a air screw,needle clip adjustment and and main jet is most likely the only things on need to do to dial in. Most carbs are pre set with the rest. An assortment fo main jet is a good idea. I refer a range to a set . example if your running a 135 than a a range from 130 to 145 is a good range. also generic keins are cheaper for owning a large range. If you can find order a range that runs from 130 132,138, 140, 142, 145,.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 1:40 am 
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Posts: 3177
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Great "fill in the gaps" information for me, very informative...Well this was supposed to be Mrs. Adnoh's seisure thread, now its become stix dread thread. One thing Adnoh stated that makes me more likely to rejet or at least check for proper jetting is... that one could have jetted to the EGT readings with wrong probe location. Why I didnt think of this??I guess Im pretty overwelmed right now because I really thought I would buy two Odys, ride,clean air filters, change lubricants, then ride some more, boy was I wrong, that's cool, I... in some sick way, enjoy the tinkering...I will run at L.S. on the 26th, will have to factor in ribs when making the razor jumps, have some fun then to the drawing board. Well its late and I need sleep so tomorrow I might read over Adnohs last post a bit and see if more of it sinks in.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 10:02 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 2858
Location: Wichita ks
Got some work done today.


Attachments:
Cylinder maping tools.jpg
Cylinder maping tools.jpg [ 82.22 KiB | Viewed 634 times ]
Finding top dead center.jpg
Finding top dead center.jpg [ 388.56 KiB | Viewed 504 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 10:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 2858
Location: Wichita ks
some #s

Crank Run out Inch
0.00023

Big end side side clearence mm
Shim to Rod 0.50
Shim to Bearing 0.35

Little end ID mm
X = 45 degrees from center
Y=90 degrees for X
X clutch center stator Average
25 25.01 25 25.00333333


Y clutch center stator Average
24.99 24.98 25.01 24.99333333

ID average 24.99833333

Crank OD mm Bearing ID mm
Clutch Side 30.07 Clutch Side 29.99
Stator Side 32.02 Stator Side 31.99

Case ID mm Bearing OD mm
Clutch Side 71.98 Clutch Side 72.00
Stator Side 71.99 Stator Side 72.00


Pre assembly case measurments
Bearing to Bearing ID
mm
Degrees 0 69.94
90 69.95
180 69.92
270 69.93

Crank Center, side clearence mm
Clutch 1.15
Stator 1.25



Case Assembly
Temps
Case Temp 68 degrees
Bearing Temp 32 degrees
Instal IN- pounds
Clutch side 125
Stator Side 253


Balancer mm

clutch Side
Bearing ID 24.99
Balancer end OD 24.98

Stator Side
Bearing OD 80.00
Case ID 80.01

mm
Rod Little End ID average 24.99833333
Pen OD 19.99


Attachments:
The T mark on flywheel off 2 degrees.jpg
The T mark on flywheel off 2 degrees.jpg [ 64.92 KiB | Viewed 632 times ]
Top dead center.jpg
Top dead center.jpg [ 72.48 KiB | Viewed 632 times ]
piston crown at top of bore.jpg
piston crown at top of bore.jpg [ 68.19 KiB | Viewed 632 times ]
Piston crown at top dead center. measurment for CR and squish.jpg
Piston crown at top dead center. measurment for CR and squish.jpg [ 70.15 KiB | Viewed 632 times ]
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