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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 9:14 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 2858
Location: Wichita ks
Turbo I will post rest once finalized. I have changed the the bump bracket and secondary sterring brackets twice now. The first allowsed the hub to over rotate past center. I used a 3" center to center triagle for a 1 to 1 and found it was too quick. The chance alowed it to retain the stock set as on the 450. This should allow the it to achieve a tighter turning radius. No rod ends all tie rod ends. Since your odyssey sterring shaft is straight ( ends boltd under each other) The 3" triangler bracket may work. This would replace the the rode end slipper. That the part I feel may be causing one of your problems. Before reworking get all the data on front settings. If you do not have. purchase a angle finder. 6" torpedo levle 2' levle, tape measure,metal ruler, jack stands, pencle and pad of papper. Thes all can be bought a harbor freight or local inexpensive tool shop. Ten I will hellp map out your front end before any rework go you have base line for repair. The ront end seams to work and a an quick fix may turn you into a happy odysse owner. I will walk you thu the tie rod set up if you like. I can get tie rods cheap and then you can cut and rethread the right side to fit. Once there right I can have new HD made to that size or you can do a "H" mod to them. Each tie rod cost me 6 buck to cut up. Need four so that's only $24.00. The bump kit material cost $80.00 to build. I came up with a bolt up kit so it can be changed or repaired easy. So your estimated cost is would be $130.00 in material and $65.00 for tools. If I rember right you said this arm set up was based on the pilot front end. The bolt up kit also allows for a bump stop addition so you can dial in the over center lock. Once again quick fix. You may need a shock relocate bracket if the lever ratio is off. I will walk you through acuring this data as well. It not bad to do. First thing to do is clear your head and get a fresh look at it. Get measurments and forget the rest then start over.

Now use your pencle and paper and start doodling on how to fix. Make sure to note at top of page date and what part. Oh ya No more bad word on kit. Use the half full approach. You may just help a lot of people out that does not like the kit and help them be happy as well. Do not be afraid to bounce ideas off others. Have son look at and get idea. Ask the board ect. I myself got the honda shop and race track as well as chassie builders, Engine buildrs, my Dad and Tobey. Somethimes the see it in a different light and see what I am missing. I,ll post a pic for you do review and ponder.


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File comment: found on this board.
bump set up.jpg
bump set up.jpg [ 40.8 KiB | Viewed 336 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 9:18 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 2858
Location: Wichita ks
Now take a pic of yours in same view and go UM. I rember that you had to weld up a- arm kit to frame so the vertical bracket should be no problem. That pic is a $525.00 atv racing bump kit. It can be built for under $200.00. If interest just let me know. Maybe open you up a unigue odysse shop.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 9:30 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 2858
Location: Wichita ks
Heres a pic up the first one I mocked up. Do not duplacat this it does not work. You got to start some where, failiure is the first step to sucess.


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File comment: First attemp from sketch.
bump #1 mock up.jpg
bump #1 mock up.jpg [ 84.62 KiB | Viewed 334 times ]
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 8:52 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 2858
Location: Wichita ks
Did some testing (4 hr) today 63"wide woods set up. Stock rear meat with 4/5 offset and stock front trx meat.I'll post rear stuff in other thread. The front was a little slow so I incresed rack from 3 deg to 6 deg one deg at atime untill it turned to my liken. I also made a toe settin gadjustment to 1/2 toe in. Now I was turning and burning. After 30 min motos checking bike over after each moto a squeek developed in the bump kit. Time to add greaseserts. The new disc work well. It now stoped on a dime. The way the front dives under breakeing is really cool. It accual alows me to dive in hard grab some front brake then relaease and come out of cornor with the front in the air. The weight transfer with the new trx set up most exclent dude. I also noticed with the stock shocks the one side front lifts under hard turning under power ( to much rear body role). I believe the new long shock will allow it to stay planted. I found it comming around when power sliding hard into cornor( sterring may be to quick or rear shock setting to soft). The new wide body like to role thu cornors instead. The best thing is the way it roles over the bumps and takes off for flight. I hit every thing and anything squared up and off camber. The bump kit proved to handle the hit well with no sterring wheel jerk. I found myself exiting the rollors at speed and over shooting cornor so I started to break thu second set setting up cornor. I could not do this with stock arms. the trx arms raced back thu travle allowing it to stay planted with out hopping. I did some tree running as well it like wide approacs and a sharp exit. just oppisite from the quad and stock set up If. I set up too wide I found myself facing the tree trunk under power. I would say for the dirt it works. next is to sand.

Note: I made new rear lower bracket and shorted up rear wheel base 2" and pull rear hub forward 1/2" for woods. changed rear lever ratio to 1.4166 and raised GC( ground clearence) by two inches for woods and will lower for sand. The new rear lower shock bracket and adjustable lower trailing arms make the changeing easy. This may also account for the new rake #s I will set up for sand and see if it's to quick and need to be racked forward to slow down keeping rear from comming around. Yes Its easy to do with the new front adjustable set up. Cant wait for new fully adjustable shocks.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 1:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 2858
Location: Wichita ks
couple of pics


Attachments:
Trx front arm caster adjusted, note- front screwed out nad rear full in,6 deg setting.jpg
Trx front arm caster adjusted, note- front screwed out nad rear full in,6 deg setting.jpg [ 67.12 KiB | Viewed 280 times ]
Front caster adjustment ,loosen nut and rotate heim in and out to adjust.jpg
Front caster adjustment ,loosen nut and rotate heim in and out to adjust.jpg [ 53.4 KiB | Viewed 280 times ]
trx front arm, upper, rear , adjust caster.jpg
trx front arm, upper, rear , adjust caster.jpg [ 61.51 KiB | Viewed 280 times ]
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