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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 6:57 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22129
Location: Chicago
Cant wait to see that Engine run...


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 11:24 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2012 11:35 am
Posts: 2010
Location: Ottawa, IL
hoser wrote:
Cant wait to see that Engine run...



I second that! Looks really cool. May I ask why it has 2 spark plugs?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 11:24 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2004 8:45 pm
Posts: 2238
hoser wrote:
Cant wait to see that Engine run...


Me too, still have not even started it. You wanna drive it? 95HP single cylinder 2 stroke ought to pull like nobodys business!

Hey Fully, here is the instructions that is for my conversion kit. Hope it helps...

Honda FL350 Bolt-on A-arm Kit
STEP 1. Remove the old J-arms, shocks, and front brake lines. Remove the front brake lines all the way to the master cylinder. Remove the tie rods from the steering flag. Save the two triangular shaped j-arm support plates and nuts for re-installation.
STEP 2. Drill out the holes in the steering flag using a 7/16” drill bit. Use the supplied 7/16”x3 ½” bolt and nylock nut to hold the 7/16” heim joints to the flag. Mount the heim joints exactly as shown in picture #1, with one heim joint above the flag, just under the bolt head. And the other just under the top part of flag. Use the 1- 3/16” chromolly bushing below the lower heim joint inside the flag. This will keep the lower heim joint up high in the flag. The objective is to mount the heim joints as high as possible in the flag. You will need to notch the steering column bottom support bracket to allow clearance for the bolt head. (see picture #2) There should be clearance already, but notch it anyways, in order to prevent steering lock-up due to too much play in the shaft when pulled up.
STEP 3. Mount the sub-frame halves to the frame using the stock triangular support brackets and nuts. Clamp the back end of the sub-fram half using the clam shell clamp. You may need to remove a cable tab in order to clamp it. Make any adjustment needed to fit your frame. Weld fully. (If you purchased the tack welded kit)
STEP 4. Install the A-arms, spindles, brakes, shocks, etc.. Upper shock brackets are intentionally left wider to allow for various shock mounting widths. Use spacers between shocks and brackets as needed.
STEP 5. Install the short braided brake line to the master cylinder using the adapter fitting provided with the brake line kit. Drill a hole in the front tab to support the “T” fitting. (see picture #3) Then attach the short brake line to “T” fitting. Attach the two longer brake lines to the “T” fitting. The other ends need to be attached to the calipers. Route the brake lines so there is no binding when turning. Support the brake lines to the upper a-arms using cable clamps or brake line clamps.
STEP 6. Attach the two inner drag lengths (10 ¼”) to the flag. Each drag length is threaded with both left hand and right hand threads to allow for adjustment when mounted. Mount the two tie rods (11 ¾”) to the steering pivot arms. (see picture #5) The inner drag lengths should be on the bottom at the steering pivot arms. The two tie rods going out to the spindles should be on the top in the steering pivot arms. Drill out the spindles with a 7/16” drill bit. Mount the heim joints on the bottom of the spindle, with the bolt head on the bottom. Use the spacer betweem the bolt head and heim joint. Use the nylock nut on the top of spindle. Adjust the inner tie rods to 12 5/8” eye to eye. Adjust the tie rods to 13 7/8” eye to eye. Tighten all jam nuts on heim joints. With the steering yoke straight, align the front tires.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 12:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1266
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
where did you get the brake line kit from. i finally found a place here that can do it, but $200 seems pretty dam expensive for some brake lines. shoudabada said he had some made up front and back for under $100, i am at $200 just for the front

looks nice. you have any finished pic. i am just waiting on brakes lines for the front and i am finally done. sun is out today so i will roll it out and get a couple pics for you. yesterday i fixed the camber, by redrilling the upper a arms, using the method bullnerd showed me. i ended up with full droop -1, ride height -2 and full bump -5.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 1:45 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2004 8:45 pm
Posts: 2238
The brake line stuff came with the "kit". I can take pictures or measurements, fitting sizes, etc, if you want to know any particulars. Snowed again this weekend so did no work on the beastie again.

Hoser likes snow pictures sooooo.......Here are some snow pictures I just took on the missile silo here in Montana I am working on...


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 3:57 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 1953
Location: near NJ rider
"full droop -1, ride height -2 and full bump -5."-that sounds good Fully.

thanks for the pics Nuke em.


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 12:42 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1266
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
thanks bullnerd.

nukem i order some russel stainless lines. 2, 34" lines, 1, 9" line. a t fitting and 3 banjo fittings. should work just wasn't expecting a $200 bill for it.

i am debating sending the 360 to ken oconner racing, and see if he can pull some more power out of it..just doing rough measurement i don't think the any of the intake ports were changed, but the exhaust port is huge..i have been watching this guy for quite some time now and he really knows what he's doing. and for $150 plus shipping might be worth it.

heres a finsihed pic of mine.


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 10:37 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 1953
Location: near NJ rider
Awesome!Now lets do the back!


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 11:17 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
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Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
bullnerd wrote:
Awesome!Now lets do the back!

Wouldn't that be cool. Has anyone ever done it yet


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 12:46 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2004 8:45 pm
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[/quote]I second that! Looks really cool. May I ask why it has 2 spark plugs?[/quote]

Hi Fatcat, Thanks, it has two plugs because it uses a dual spark MSD system and custom harness. I really have not done the research to learn about it all(last year really sucked...house flooded out). This was Bob Briggs personal race Engine(Beastie) when he competed. I was told it was in the 90-95HP range and turns 9500-13,000 RPMs! It has dual bearings to help it live at those RPMs. I got several of these engines n spare parts. I am going to run it as he had it setup before changing anything...if nessisary. I also need to learn about 110 race fuel for that is what they are set up to run. There will be lots of pics n info to come. :-)

Gary


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 12:51 pm 
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Looks great Fully!!! Hope mine turns out that nice. Cant wait to see it in person.

I am extremely interested in a LT rear 350 setup. Start a thread in TECH or Projects and start bouncing ideas around.


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 1:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1266
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
can't wait to see and here that beastie run. has anyone decided on dates yet for St. A's


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 1:35 pm 
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I have not seen or heard any updates lately. If no one shows the first week, I will wait til you can go later in June. Give me a little more time to work the bugs out! :-)


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 1:53 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2012 11:35 am
Posts: 2010
Location: Ottawa, IL
Nuke Em wrote:
I second that! Looks really cool. May I ask why it has 2 spark plugs?[/quote]

Hi Fatcat, Thanks, it has two plugs because it uses a dual spark MSD system and custom harness. I really have not done the research to learn about it all(last year really sucked...house flooded out). This was Bob Briggs personal race Engine(Beastie) when he competed. I was told it was in the 90-95HP range and turns 9500-13,000 RPMs! It has dual bearings to help it live at those RPMs. I got several of these engines n spare parts. I am going to run it as he had it setup before changing anything...if nessisary. I also need to learn about 110 race fuel for that is what they are set up to run. There will be lots of pics n info to come. :-)

Gary[/quote]

Sorry to hear about the flood. I'm definately interested in seeing more pics of these engines when you get a chance. Your Briggs race equipment thread has been teasing me. :-) I'm not sure if it's my phone or what but I'm able to read the text but no pics of these bad boys.


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 2:04 pm 
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Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
all the pics were lost when the site got hacked.


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 2:05 pm 
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All the pics were lost after the site got hacked. Most of the pics I took were on the computer that got flooded but I still have the majority of the engines n equipment so can retake whatever you want to see.



Found some old pics before I got it...


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 3:33 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 1953
Location: near NJ rider
Just curious if the carb on that Engine is mounted the same as Shoubadabas?
Sorry for clogging your thread with Fullys stuff.
The only 350 with a five link that ive seen is the one posted here in the u-joint thread.The dude from Aus put up some pics of what looked like a good setup to me.
It could be done.I've looked at the 350 frame in pics here.The biggest problem I see(other than welding on the frame)is the fuel tank would be in the way.
I would love to throw some ideas out there.I tried to trade Mudbogger a 350sx for a bare frame so I could do it here but it didnt work out.
Now I'm building a new "shed" and don't have the room for anymore projects.


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 3:39 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2012 11:35 am
Posts: 2010
Location: Ottawa, IL
Wow, that baby's been heavily modified! Thanks for the pics! Do you have several of this Engine or are the others different setups? Any idea what the cylinder is off of? There's not really anything in particular I'm wanting to see. I just really appreciate the custom engines and all the work that was put into them. Thanks again.


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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 2:15 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2004 8:45 pm
Posts: 2238
Sorry for clogging your thread with Fullys stuff. ----Not clogging up a thing Bullnerd, ask n post away! I am not hiding any info from anyone, I like to share info for all to learn or correct me before I do something wrong...again. :-) Any pics of Shoubadabas Engine?

Hey Fatcat, all the engines(not the M word, lol) I got in this deal were heavily modded race engines. I was originally going to detune them some for hopefully more hours of run time....since decided I have enough light modded engines for that kind of riding and want to run them for close to peak power. I cant find the hundreds of pics I took so may have to retake pics. Not sure what the cyclinders were originally from but some of them have CR500 heads that have been modded, some have exhaust bridges some don't, all start at 87mm bore or larger, some have graphted intakes n exhausts from other 2 strokes, massive port work, etc etc etc. I have quite a few totes full of spare parts, BN carbs n jets, pistons, gages, manuals, on & on & on. Anything you would like to see in particular? I should have time this weekend for more pics.

Gary


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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 2:39 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2012 11:35 am
Posts: 2010
Location: Ottawa, IL
I think we've figured out where the cool race stuff went! Nukem has it all in his garage! :-)
No rush on pics just please share when you get to them. Hopefully I can make it out on one of these great western rides(probably 2013) and see some of your machines in person.


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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 9:11 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 1:51 am
Posts: 2702
Location: Upland, Ca
Mine is the same as the one I'm getting from Ed. It's renni awanas gen 3 Engine. Thinking its more of an electrical problem because everything came out of the car and went into mine with no change. It's the same as most of yours. Started out a fl350 Engine. Punched out with a yz490 piston and sleave kx500 intake with custom huge exhaust and custom made head. I'm yeilding 182 psi running c12 vp race fuel.


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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 12:27 pm 
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shoubadaba wrote:
Mine is the same as the one I'm getting from Ed. It's renni awanas gen 3 Engine. Thinking its more of an electrical problem because everything came out of the car and went into mine with no change. It's the same as most of yours. Started out a fl350 Engine. Punched out with a yz490 piston and sleave kx500 intake with custom huge exhaust and custom made head. I'm yeilding 182 psi running c12 vp race fuel.


Ah cool!Let me know if you need anything for it. I have lots of spare parts. I wish all the pics in the RACE section were still there. I think the text is still there anyway. You putting it in a Briggs car?


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 1:53 am 
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Location: Upland, Ca
Awsome I actually needed to talk to you about the original expansion chamber that was on rennies Engine that I got from ed. That Engine is going into my # 2 briggs car my son will be racing. Chassis is ready for powdercoating now after my rear suspension changes and mods. I have been trying to get all of rennies engines that Dan and Jimmy built for him so all my cars run the exact same equipment. I have a ton of 360 briggs engines and 3 big cylinder briggs 400's as well.


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 9:13 am 
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Posts: 22129
Location: Chicago
shoubadaba wrote:
Awsome I actually needed to talk to you about the original expansion chamber that was on rennies Engine that I got from ed. That Engine is going into my # 2 briggs car my son will be racing. Chassis is ready for powdercoating now after my rear suspension changes and mods. I have been trying to get all of rennies engines that Dan and Jimmy built for him so all my cars run the exact same equipment. I have a ton of 360 briggs engines and 3 big cylinder briggs 400's as well.



I thought all those pipes were hand built for each Engine as that particular Engine was being designed and built, the last thing I would wan to is swap pipes, engines this tweaked out you might end up with something you will never get tuned or jetted correctly, these engines are not like other two strokes where you order your favorite "FATTY" or "DG" pipe and thow on it...

I would also not play with anything on the intake system or ignitions including spark plugs and spark plug boots no way would I try to personalize these engines in any way.

I remember a local guy changed the spark plug boot on his race shifter kart Engine and kept blowing up the Engine, the Engine was like one of Rennis engines all tweaked to the max made for one thing, the owner paid many thousands of dollars to have the Engine developed the builder made like 9 pipes for it before he got the numbers they were looking for, the moron owner changed the spark plug boot because he thought a different color would look better it affected the timing of this tweaked Engine enough it never finished a race, after blowing the Engine about 5 times he shipped it back to the builder the builder figured it out before it was even out of the box what the problem was, changing the spark plug boot cost the owner about another 7k and about 5 races.

My best advice is if you want to personalize something (make changes) have another machine to play with if you want to win races change nothing on these briggs cars.


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 1:28 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 1:51 am
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Location: Upland, Ca
Yup . I got rennie awanas gen 4 Engine from ed here on the board and nukem has the original pipe for it and I want it from him so both my briggs have the same Engine in them. The 2nd car I have didn't have the changes to the chassis like the natures cars did so I copied peter kays cars. What was done was lay the rear shocks forward. It helps with turning and overall handeling of the car through the rough stuff. No other changes will be made to these Awsome cars. I'll make some threads soon documenting everything soon. All my other engines I have the specific pipe for them. My garage rafters looks like I have an exhaust shop LOL. I hope to make some back east races someday so i can visit all you guys out that way and try my hand at the woods racing stuff. Looks like a blast


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