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 Post subject: New 1983 FL250 Project
PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 3:18 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:05 am
Posts: 1228
Location: Chicago
Picking this dusty relic up tomorrow morning. Hope it's not too much work :)
What I know.
-No Spark
-Bad Tires
-Dirty
-Motor is said to have good compression but actual amount is not known. If the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) does not work I may mount up this fan cooled 377 rotax motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) I have to throw back together. I hear they are fairly bulletproof.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 4:02 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
Wonder if the low spark is just from dirty points? I have never owned a FL250 but if i recall correct they use a points system instead of a CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) like an FL350/Pilot? Ive always thought about picking up a cheap FL250 but it would never ever get used with my FL350s and now Pilot. There is a 250 locally with a 440 Yamaha in it for $800. Good luck with the project!


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 1:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:05 am
Posts: 1228
Location: Chicago
nitrosport_5 wrote:
Wonder if the low spark is just from dirty points? I have never owned a FL250 but if i recall correct they use a points system instead of a CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) like an FL350/Pilot? Ive always thought about picking up a cheap FL250 but it would never ever get used with my FL350s and now Pilot. There is a 250 locally with a 440 Yamaha in it for $800. Good luck with the project!

81-83 are CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) I believe. I think I found the problem already.. the coil wire is gone
Lol. Lots of small things here and there also. More to come. Might get pricey but should turn into a nice restore


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 2:53 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:05 am
Posts: 1228
Location: Chicago
Checked the compression today... Engine is looking pretty good. Is this compression too high? I took the cylinder head off to inspect the spark plug threads and replace the gasket, there is almost no carbon buildup either.
For the most part I really cant wait to simply hose all of the dirt off of this thing!


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 3:17 am 
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Posts: 714
Looks good to me.

You can fix that rust in the tank with a $20 por15 starter kit. I have done it many times and another member has done it as well. I have some vids on how to do it on youtube. Let me know and I will give you the link.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 3:23 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:05 am
Posts: 1228
Location: Chicago
bighead wrote:
Looks good to me.

You can fix that rust in the tank with a $20 por15 starter kit. I have done it many times and another member has done it as well. I have some vids on how to do it on youtube. Let me know and I will give you the link.


Link me up! There is tons of surface rust in that tank too


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 3:45 am 
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Posts: 714
Here is the 1st vid in the series. You can find the others. I think there is like 6 of them. The $20 por15 starter kit will do your tank no problems. I have done lots of tanks and POR15 is by far the best. The electrolisis will get all the rust, every last bit. I also did chemical tsting with POR15 in my vids. Paint stripper does not even effect it. Use the POR15 silver starter kit. It's the same stuff in the POR15 stank repair kit anyway. Black works just as good but the silver is a little thicker for filling pin holes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCpJRI1mNY8" ."..

Comments:

Thank you I was able to coat the tank with the starter kit and have enough left over for the out side of the tank. Thanks again for the info. By the way, I am Rarerat from Hosers site.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 4:04 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
Bighead's advice works great (as far as the electrolysis goes). Ive got the starter kit on order!


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 4:11 am 
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POR15 is amazing stuff. Here is some testing I did with chemicals. I did my own testing before I did it on my tanks. Also have 3 tanks done this way holding up perfectly and clear as can be. POR15 is moister cured so works best on rainy days. The stuff is so non porus that ever paint stripper can get into it.

When you see this stuff at car shows. The salesman will have a plate of steel and a screwdriver. He will ask you to try to even scratch it. Rock crawlers will tell you it's the only thing that holds up to bashing on rocks. As far as paint it amazes me all the time. It needs to be done right and on rust though. It does not like new shinny steel. It needs rust for that por15 bond. I let all my fl250 I painted rust for a week then started the por15 process. They say you can paint new shinny steel but I have always been able to chip it like paint. On rust it rock solid even beating on it. They also paint chemical holding tanks with this stuff.

I posted a pic below. I like to use the threaded rod. My thinking is the threaded rod has lots of surface area. Plus it is just easy as pie. If using coat hanger make sure it does not have some funky coating on it. So I just use rod. BUT you can use anything really. You need to clean and change the water everyday as well. Also scrape all the crude off the rod daily. You do not need to get fancy with coat hanger and cookie tin. Anything will work. I even used and old chain. As long as it's steel it will work.

DO NOT GET ANY OF IT ON YOU. IT TAKES WEEKS TO COME OFF!!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBvt9kFVi4M" .".." .".." .".." .".." .".." .".." .".." .".." ."..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sll8NwIaqfE" .".." .".." .".." .".." .".." .".." .".." .".." ."..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0srZV45_JEk" .".." .".." .".." .".." .".." .".." .".." .".." ."..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uxQLKny_dE" .".." .".." .".." .".." .".." .".." .".." .".." ."..


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 4:39 am 
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Posts: 714
Are you going to put a sled Engine into this? If so I have a some info on the conversion and mods to the stock clutch to fit the larger sleds belts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-RXoEyzYjI" .".." ."..

This mod has held up for 4 hard weekends riding now. Not a single problem with no belt ware. It shift very good and keeps me in the power.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6iiN3sL8xA" .".." ."..

This vid you can hear how it shifts. On dirt it's not as fast.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NMOCQOjQcM" ."..

Here is a vid doing a small hillclimb. IMO it shifts well. I see lots of sled conversion just reving out with no power.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YX36AgTQoIE


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 10:14 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:38 pm
Posts: 1785
Location: New Mexico
bighead wrote:
Here is the 1st vid in the series. You can find the others. I think there is like 6 of them. The $20 por15 starter kit will do your tank no problems. I have done lots of tanks and POR15 is by far the best. The electrolisis will get all the rust, every last bit. I also did chemical tsting with POR15 in my vids. Paint stripper does not even effect it. Use the POR15 silver starter kit. It's the same stuff in the POR15 stank repair kit anyway. Black works just as good but the silver is a little thicker for filling pin holes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCpJRI1mNY8" .".." .".." ."..

Comments:

Thank you I was able to coat the tank with the starter kit and have enough left over for the out side of the tank. Thanks again for the info. By the way, I am Rarerat from Hosers site.


Yes sir, bighead's videos are what gave me the idea to try the electrolysis and it worked awesome on my rusty 350 tank. I also took his advice and bought the POR15 starter kit and used it on the inside to line the tank with great results.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 2:45 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2010 1:19 am
Posts: 714
Yes sir, bighead's videos are what gave me the idea to try the electrolysis and it worked awesome on my rusty 350 tank. I also took his advice and bought the POR15 starter kit and used it on the inside to line the tank with great results.[/quote]

Also about POR15 and Kreem liners. Just do a google on "Kreem failing" You will get hundreds of hits on how to remove it for it did not work right. Not a single hit I coud find on POR15 liner failing. Also Kreem has nasty nasty chemicals.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:05 am
Posts: 1228
Location: Chicago
Got it cleaned up... Much better than I thought!!

Anyone have an exhaust spring mount????


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 11:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
Posts: 2865
Location: East Peoria IL
tim - that's looking good. When You get it doen we can meet up at the badlands. Your 83 FL250, my 77 Fl250, your 85 fl350, my 89 fl400 - hell a few more years and we'll have them all covered. :-) My be Hose and stone man could join us.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 1:07 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:05 am
Posts: 1228
Location: Chicago
rmesser wrote:
tim - that's looking good. When You get it doen we can meet up at the badlands. Your 83 FL250, my 77 Fl250, your 85 fl350, my 89 fl400 - hell a few more years and we'll have them all covered. :-) My be Hose and stone man could join us.



haha hell yea.. hoser and stoneman better show up... some camping sounds good to me.. lets plan a trip in may/june?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 4:36 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2010 1:19 am
Posts: 714
Tpreed wrote:
Got it cleaned up... Much better than I thought!!

Anyone have an exhaust spring mount????


Are you talking about the exhaust spring bracket that bolts to the exhaust header?? I will be sending you one pretty sure. (99.9%) Also the bracket that goes on the pipe and bolts to the frame! Do you have that bracket?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 5:20 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:05 am
Posts: 1228
Location: Chicago
bighead wrote:
Tpreed wrote:
Got it cleaned up... Much better than I thought!!

Anyone have an exhaust spring mount????


Are you talking about the exhaust spring bracket that bolts to the exhaust header?? I will be sending you one pretty sure. (99.9%) Also the bracket that goes on the pipe and bolts to the frame! Do you have that bracket?


I actually don't think I have either? I didn't even realize I was missing the frame bracket until you mentioned it. Good catch!


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 9:23 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:38 pm
Posts: 1785
Location: New Mexico
That really cleaned up nice, great job.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 7:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:05 am
Posts: 1228
Location: Chicago
UPDATES: Put the new coil in, dumped some gas in the spark plug hole and she fired right up! Took the roll cage off to drain the old gas that was in there. It was dark red and smelled like varnish. I will be repairing this gas tank using BIGHEAD's POR15 and electrolysis method.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 7:59 pm 
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Posts: 5559
Location: New Jersey
is that your 350 in the back Tpreed? if so what happened it looks totally apart!!!!


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 8:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:05 am
Posts: 1228
Location: Chicago
Mudbogger wrote:
is that your 350 in the back Tpreed? if so what happened it looks totally apart!!!!


Yep the 350 is getting fine tuned for the season, Working up the front brakes, New rear shocks getting recharged at Works, New front and rear wheel bearings. I'm sure I will think of more stuff to do in the meantime lol


Started the electrolysis treatment today. I stopped because the negative terminal got extremely HOT relatively fast. Should I dilute the water a bit more? Is my aqueous solution too conductive? The threaded rod is suspended properly. 12 V @ 2 amps. Maybe I added too much sodium solution?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:36 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:05 am
Posts: 1228
Location: Chicago
Got a lot done yesterday. On order are the tires and new seat cover. I got all the rims sanded down and painted with some rustoleum gold paint.


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File comment: Purchased an all black cover for this bad boy.
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File comment: Electrolysis ate my sacrificial anode in just a few hours.. Positive on top negative on tank right?
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File comment: Came out nice than I imagined.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 2:50 pm 
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Here is a pic. I never seen one eat that fast. Are you sure it's steel and not some funky alloy?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 4:47 pm 
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Location: Chicago
I think it was some funky alloy... It was some sort of stainless threaded rod. Im pretty sure it electroplated the inside of the tank with the metal from the rod...


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 12:46 am 
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Location: Chicago
Instead of refreshing my tracking numbers on all my goodies that are in the mail, I decided to paint the skid/cover assemblies.. They looked like shat.


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