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 Post subject: Drak tachs
PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 12:21 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2003 8:43 pm
Posts: 1368
Location: Colorado
Ted and I are planning to put tachs on the new Drakarts.

We found the stock units and hope to make a neat installation. They take a sub-harness from the main harness, we also got them.

They have several functions in addition to Engine RPMs, don't know how many of them we will be able to use.


Attachments:
tachrear.jpg
tachrear.jpg [ 144.43 KiB | Viewed 579 times ]
GSXRtach.jpg
GSXRtach.jpg [ 141 KiB | Viewed 579 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 1:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22105
Location: Chicago
Nice! I hope its painless trying to hook them up.

Trying to get into hand modeling now?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 3:28 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2006 2:15 pm
Posts: 372
Location: Boston, Ma
Yep, we'll see how the hookup goes. This is actually #2 of several modifications currently planned.

1) Install pingel electric shifters w/ ignition cut-out: Probably mount the shifter under the "dash" in front of the manual shifter. Will add buttons on steering wheel to activate the shifter up and down. Full throttle shifting at it's finest...I hope.
2) Install tachs: Need to lengthen mini harness that attaches to the main harness. Also, need a good idea on how to mount the tachs in a visible position on the dash. Tachs have a few idiot lights on them and will also give us a neutral indication from the MC tranny.
3) Install gear indicators w/ Timing Retard Eliminators: There are some pretty slick little gadgets out there (gi-pro.com) that have an LED showing what gear you are in...plugs directly into the main harness. The TRE outsmarts the compunter in 1-3rd gears so you can use all of the power and overrides the rpm limits in upper gears.
4) Install segments to the main harness so the tach can display the idiot lights (temp & oil leads). These are other pieces of a harness that we'll get down the road.

Anybody have a good lead on those little heating guns used to seal/wrap wire splices? Is this any better than old-fashioned black electrical tape?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 4:55 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 04, 2006 10:36 pm
Posts: 251
cheapest little thing gun i use, is a .97 cent bic lighter and heat shrink from the parts store, but i also like using uninsulated stake ons, them things with the plastic on them suck arse, unisulated ones divot the side instead of mash it, way better, just go to the local electrical supply store, or take the plastic off the junk ones and solder the wire in, but don't forget to put the heat shrink on first, i am real good at not doing that...haha


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 5:32 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2003 8:43 pm
Posts: 1368
Location: Colorado
Here are some pics of our first shot at shifter buttons, we still need some sort of coiled wires to connect them.


Attachments:
File comment: This area still needs some work.
backofswitches.jpg
backofswitches.jpg [ 121.95 KiB | Viewed 519 times ]
File comment: Just $3.50 for momentary switches at Radio Shack
shiftbuttons.jpg
shiftbuttons.jpg [ 121.04 KiB | Viewed 519 times ]
File comment: Pretty easy to reach, the wheel is dished out, so hopefully accidental button pushing won't be a problem
thumbonbutton.jpg
thumbonbutton.jpg [ 120.31 KiB | Viewed 519 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 04, 2006 10:36 pm
Posts: 251
sweet, i noticed ted said something about killing momentarly, what are you guys using, from what i have read etc. i think the fuel on a fuel injection has to be killed when shifting, is this what you guys have come up with as well?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 6:22 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 04, 2006 10:36 pm
Posts: 251
doesnt the pingle have paddles that mount behind the wheel, i don't know much about them, look interesting tho. i was debating on making electric shifter for my car, i was going to use automotive power lock solenoid, as they go forward and backward with a neutral location, i probbaly wouldn't kill anything tho, just left off the go pedal like regular shifting.. the solenoids would mount directly to my shifter itself.... but i may just stick with the stick.

what kind of price tag do the pingles have on them, and do they include the electronics for slowing the rpm etc?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 6:42 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2006 2:15 pm
Posts: 372
Location: Boston, Ma
Actually the fuel is not affected w/ the interuption. It is the ignition...just a few milliseconds (maybe 10 or so) which is enough to slow down the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) ever so slightly and "loosen" up the transmission gears so the electric solenoid can shift the transmission with less pressure than loaded-up. This is the common set-up on all the major branded shifter kits out there. The Pingel shifters we have came with an ignition interuptor as part of the package. There are dip switches on the little black box that allow us to adjust the duration of the kill time. It should work well once it is adjusted.

The Pingel does not come with paddles, just a small dual switch that would mount on handlebars. There is a product out there that could be adapted but it is very expensive so we opted for the momentary buttons.

Pingels can be pricey...look on eBay...they usually come with all of the electronics that you would need. Retail is $800 but you should be able to get one for half that at most. Also, look over their website and make sure you get something that will work for you. You'll find that most of these are nearly 100% interchangeable (ignition kill hardware is the same for all models). For what we're using them for it does not matter much which model you get, the major differences listed on the website are mounting hardware for different years, makes, and models of cycles. major components are virtually all the same. http://www.pingelonline.com/eshifter_suzuki_gsxr.htm

You could try using an auto powerlock solenoid but I don't know if it will have enough thrust. It depends on how you mount it. Also, I don't believe they have a neutral position like the pingels do....maybe some do, not sure. The other part of it is that the pingel doesn't resist normal shifting. In any case, if you go the powerlock route you can always use a proximity switch for the ignition kill activation and buy that piece seperately. We opted not to do this because then you always have kill even when shifting manually.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 6:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 04, 2006 10:36 pm
Posts: 251
cool, another guy was talking about fuel, will the Engine load with fuel if its not interupted? i will research the solenoid, i was thinking it had neutral, but i may very well be wrong, i probbaly will stick with the hand shift for now tho....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 8:28 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22105
Location: Chicago
Ted talk to the guys in your maintenance dept on the electrical connections they will have the best setup and hot tricks to making a good connection, or go under the dash of the next bird you take up hehe, I seen some kool crimpers they use for safety related connections at the local nuke plant.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 7:04 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2006 2:15 pm
Posts: 372
Location: Boston, Ma
Hmmm, that's a good idea. Aircraft wiring is entirely different but they should be able to give me a pointer or two. You know, come to think of it I've never seen a wire spliced & repaired on a jet...they just replace the whole damn thing. That stuff is very small as compared to auto wiring...it is a lot like the internal wires of a phone line.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:01 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22105
Location: Chicago
tedpilot wrote:
Hmmm, that's a good idea. Aircraft wiring is entirely different but they should be able to give me a pointer or two. You know, come to think of it I've never seen a wire spliced & repaired on a jet...they just replace the whole damn thing. That stuff is very small as compared to auto wiring...it is a lot like the internal wires of a phone line.


Ask they gotta have larger wires than a phone line and a procedure for splicing?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 4:06 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2006 2:15 pm
Posts: 372
Location: Boston, Ma
Yes, there are a few...99% of it is tiny white wiring though routed through circuit breakers directly grounded on electrical buses (typically 2-20 amps and 28v dc). The bigger stuff is for battery and generator conenctions which connects directly to electrical buses (looks like heavy-duty coax). That stuff is never spliced...always replaced in whole sections (it runs 400 amps at 28v dc!! and we wonder why we have electical fires in planes). In my 16 years of flying I've never noticed a spliced wire in a bundle by design or repair...if the wire needs to go to two places they run two sepearte wires from the power and switching source. Additionally, if the wire breaks for a strange reason they run a new one.

I did find a $30 kit on JEGs...comes with a bunch of shrink-wrappers and a mini butane heater. That should work just fine for how much stuff I'm going to be doing... Might even look for one at the local auto shop.


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