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 Post subject: Trailer AC
PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 7:23 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2006 2:15 pm
Posts: 372
Location: Boston, Ma
Well, after many moons of wanting AC for my trailer I finally took the plunge. The unit is a new low profile carrier 13.5k BTU...way more than I will need but the trailer is not insulated so maybe it is the right amount? In any case, Drakman and I will have refuge from the heat when it gets hot until he gets his truck up to speed.

A few thoughts and tidbits for anyone who is considering or about to install a unit:

1) It is a two person job
2) AC units are heavy so make sure your vent hole that you are mounting in to is reinforced as well as the surrounding roof area.
3) They all run on 110v power...you don't need anything exotic electronics wise to make it work, a small breaker box with a 20 amp breaker will suffice with a land-line to power.
4) Unit wattage is anywhere from 1000-3000 watts consumption depending on the size and usage. Important if you use a generator that you not overload your power supply.
5) Install tips...given to me and sage advice...use plywood!! Yep, get a piece about 3x4' and set the AC upper unit on it. Two guys lift the upper onto the roof and then slide into correct position. One guy underneath says which way to go while the guy on top moves the unit about. The plywood is also important because many of our trailers and such have thin aluminum roofs that can't take any weight on them and they will puncture easily. Bear your weight on the plywood, put your tools on it, etc...
6) You need a box cutter and a blade to get all of the sealant off if removing a previously installed vent. Keep the vent just in case you have to reinstall later...as in you want to keep your AC unit.
7) If you are ordering a trailer, spend the few extra bucks and have an AC Prep package installed (~$100). For most trailer manufacturers this includes a 110v wire in the wall up to the applicable vent with a small junction box at the bottom near the nose. It will also include a reinforced vent area that will bear the weight of the unit. These things weigh about 100lbs so don't be fooled that a regular vent opening is strong enough.
8) AC units tend to wear out with time and can be costly to repair, I'd recommend a new unit vs a used one.

I went with a lo-profile unit for both aerodynamics and looks. It was considerably more expensive though. Lo-pro heights vary dramatically...mine is about 6-7" I think. The standard versions are about 15". Lo-pro in other brands does not mean lo-profile in my book...many of them are still 10" high so if you pay for lo-pro, make sure you are happy with the height.

I have been watching unit prices for many months and finally a guy down in FL had a sale and I was able to snag the lo-pro as the lowest price I have ever seen a unit. Total cost including shipping and insurance was about $650. Shipping was via UPS and he not only shipped when he said he would but it also arrived on schedule. The place is called Family RV Center, www.rvparts.net or 727-389-3440. EBay name is Familyrvrepair...over 2,000 feedbacks and 100% positive. Very friendly and helpful and the transaction was professional, efficient and quick. You'll also get a catalog from them if you are looking for other components...

Ted

Draktwin


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 7:37 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2003 8:43 pm
Posts: 1368
Location: Colorado
Next time we hook it to my truck, we can just transfer it to the truck, sound OK to you?

Whoever told you to use plywood was really smart :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 7:49 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 2840
Location: Wichita ks
Why no mention of prewax and soft cloth under plywood to reduce placment friction. Maybe worried about the wax allowing the A/C to end up and over with a big oops. I do like the low profile. Just had to mention wax on. Very nice.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 8:51 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2006 2:15 pm
Posts: 372
Location: Boston, Ma
Wax?? Huh??? Adnoh, I think mybe you've been sniffing some wax!! Ha ha ha. Anyway, there is a large rubbery/foam seal under the AC unit on the top of the trailer and interior unit is lined with a foam CLOTH material to keep it from moving on the ceiling. Basically, the two major pieces are clamping on the roof itself around the 14x14" opening that was the vent previously. Four huge bolts hold the whole thing together.

Draktwin


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 1:04 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I did this to my toy hauler/work truck as the price of diesel is way to much to justify idleing the truck for 8-10 hours every nite to sleep with HVAC... Reports claim 1 to 1.5 gallons per hour to idle :shock: x 4.00+++

My hardest part was laying out the hole due to the framework hidden inside the covered cab. My first generator lasted 3 months. It finally got replaced by the powermate factory, but that one only lasted a few hours... First one mechanic said the rocker arms were worn out, waiting on parts for 2 months before girlfriend contacted Power mate...

the second unit only lasted a few hours then shut down to low oil... upon csi I found the oil was coming out the filter box, by the vent tube that came out of the OHV cover box where the rocker arms are... took the cover off and oill gushed out?/?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 1:48 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3161
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
AAhhhh cool air. I have one of these on my 16 YO trailer at the Lake and it still cools, only servicing ever done was filters. IMO most roof mounted units are die hard and Carrier is good brand. The sun likes to beat down on the cover and even though UV rated I had to replace mine.BTW good installation job. Did Drak help you?? If not tell him to get his own.LOL...Marc


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 12:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22105
Location: Chicago
I like mine, a must for them real HOT days, it has heat also...








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