im rebuilding an fl250. keeping it pretty basic, floating ground from lighting coil, adding a voltage rectifer / regulator for the push button start and a trail tech tac vapor system. ill post more soon.

Welcome new guy.
Looks like a nice job on the rebuild.
Site is very very slow now.
CO

Its refreshing to see a FL250 project, after all the FL250 was the springboard to 4 wheel ATV's. I was riding 3 wheelers when a buddy bought a FL250 so a BIG THANKS to Honda!

Note: When taking your pics try and figure out what way your holding the phone or camera or rotate the pictures before uploading.

We never really had this problem back in the old days when we were all using digital cameras or scanning photos.

i guess they all upload in landscape even if they are not...ill try to think of a solution lol.

heres some more pics. got some tefzil wire and gonna be making a custom harness with deutsch connectors. ill post pics and diagrams since electrical seems to be the most rare of info out there.

so i never planned on posting any of this and didnt take pictures of rebuilding the cab, resealing the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )), rebuilding fuel pump...etc i missed alot. ill try to take more as i go foward into the electrical side. in the next few days/weeks

Started wiring today

More pics of building a 12 wire harness with deutsch connectors and tefzel wire

Seat belt arrived, stopping here till I crack the case and float the ground to rectify power

Got the vapor in and running, tac welded a bracket for a wheel sensor ran the power head temp and rpm signal to the back.

Floating the ground
remove stator
on the copper coil use a solder iron to heat up solder and disconnect wire running to ground terminal.
split the loom run a new wire the same direction as the others and soldier it to the wire you just disconnected.
secure wires to make sure they don't get sucked into the fly wheel.
connect each yellow to each rectifer ac input, then the rectifer will spit out dc power.

Looks like you are doing a nice job on that FL250.
I had to look up that Plexus as I use JB Weld on a lot of things.
The JB has almost double the tensile strength but only about 2% elongation.
The Plexus has an impressive 50% elongation.
So I guess it depends on application requirements.

On a negative note:
That sensor ---- it looks like a target for rocks.
Any plans on making any protection for it ?
CO

yeah i was thinking i should relocate it but im not going to be running this one off road too much, more of a street/flattrack style. i do have two fl350s that im about to start, thinking ill get them both running then build custom long arm kits to lift it all up quite a bit. one has a water cooled head and a gravity tank. other is stock.

Yes I see two of those FL350 in the picture there.
It has a gravity feed tank. I don't like those for several reasons.
1) makes machine top heavy and you can tip these over real easy already
2) puncture the tank in a crash and you will roast like a chicken
3) carb needs to have a large float valve so you don't lean out
4) tank must be vented or have a vented cap
5) I see stock seat belts on the one machine and that's a no no
6) I see what looks like a Rand water cooled head
7) I see nerf bars on the machine
8) on the other machine I see a fire extinguisher on the roll bar

I also see:
1) you have a house with a garage AND a shop
2) you live in a dry area as I see rock landscaping and what appear to be palm trees
3) you are into boats and things that go with it like boards and fishing gear
4) you are safety conscious as I see a fire extinguisher real handy by the garage door outside
5) you are a mechanic or have a business as I see a lot of tool boxes, oil drain catcher tank and you are "floating the ground" which means you are possibly a tradesman like me
6) you are into wood work as I see a wood lathe

Based on what I see I bet you live in California or Florida because there aren't many boats in the desert and those are sea going yachts (LOL) and those pics were posted in February and there is no snow on the ground.

A few pics of the FL350's would be nice.
I can pic them apart for you based on what I see.
I own 3 of the FL350's and have had a big crash that put me in the hospital. I take things apart daily.
CO

Keep this thread going. I don't post but I really appreciate a good rebuild thread.

so i ran the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) and overheated it pretty bad, had to rip it down anyway so here it is. installing new bearings, seals and a comet 94c. stay tuned.

anyone know a good place to get parts other than oddatv?
so far ive found honda still offers quite a bit. i think ill do my own cross refrencing on some parts too. we got a few motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) shops near me that may know places that can get us all some parts without the middle man.

https://www.hondapartshouse.com/oempart ... dels/parts

Please have a look at this thread that I did years ago: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18393&hilit=manuals
Anything highlighted in blue you can click on and read or download.
There is a tremendous amount of info there.
CO

Good luck on the rebuild. Was it an air leak? Or just ran too lean?

it was an air leak. I installed a new intake throat and forgot to transfer the screw from the old one. got it to 370 deg then it took off and dieseled on me, kill switch didnt work, fuel shut off wasant fast engouh, ended up choking it out to kill it. after it cooled it had a horrible sound every couple of Engine rotations like a bearing ate itself. took the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) apart and couldnt find anything really wrong, bearings had some excess play and noise, there was alot of side to side play in the crank shaft when grabbing the torque converter and moving back and forth. i think during reassembly i may dimple the crank shaft where it meets the bearing races, waiting on my comet system before i reassemble.

Pressed in new bearings and seals, dimpled the crank shaft and reassembled. Got the comet clutch system, going to throw it all together and run it out. I'll post a video of the run out.
Pro tip, if you do tear down the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) to this level please remember the piston rings have a very specific spot they have to align with. If you don't get it perfectly the jug won't drop over the rings.

Pro tip on removing the crank bearings, split the cases, remove the seals. Put cases in the freezer for an hour or so, preheat the oven to 350 degrees, put the case half in the oven bearing side down close the oven and wait, in a minute or so the cases will heat up faster than the bearing and the bearing will fall out. Repeat on the second case.

To install clean everything up, freeze the bearings a few hours, they will shrink a little. Heat the oven up to 300 degrees let the cases get hot, remove the bearing from the freezer, remove the case from the oven, put your index finger and middle finger inside the iner race of the bearing to hold it, carefully, keeping the bearing straight slid it in the case until it bottoms in the hole. Allow the case temperature transition back to room temp.

No press, hammer, cussing required. No stress has been put on the bearings.

thx for the info. i norally freeze and heat everything since i always break something if i don't!

hey the comet 94c engages at 4000 rpm! that seems really high to me. anyone change theirs? whats the optium rpm range for this machine, 6k seems a bit high to me and i think that's about where the clutch is wide open.

here it is running for the frist time since i rebuilt it. everything seem sperfect but i don't like the clutch enganing at 4000, im going to cahnge it to 2700 rpm so it starts moving after idle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkaOO2sGfOU

On to the fl350s