NO STAT-temp sensor in radiator which activates the fan at a set temp-you could do the same inline on a coolant hose and wire it right to a rad if needed.

The reason I'm so curious about how your's handles the cold weather jim is you have both the cylinder and the head cooled. Or you will anyway. It does work on the Pilot without a stat though. I also read an article which the author used a specific diameter restriction in his system to make sure the coolant flow rate allowed enough time for heat transfer between the Engine and the coolant. It was a high end racing application and he wasn't running a stat. Did you get your pipe? Hows the fab. going on the cooling plumbing? I just checked the links I sent you and 2 don't work so I'll try again. Not sure how I as--ed that up.


http://www.rscycles.com/images/thermost ... m_guhl.htm

http://www.rscycles.com/tech_articles/Thereo_tech.htm

Wink

I have seen this setup as well. You just put a T in both the pump intake line and the pump exit line. then the two T's get connected with a regular valve like for a water spigot. when its open the water will recirculate and only allow a little through the entire system slowly. as it warms up the bypass can be closed off or left partially open depending on the temperatures. if you had a water temp gauge you could adjust it to what you want to see. I have not used this but have seen it on a couple custom applications. its very simple and should work fine. I would not think you would need this unless you ride in the winter a lot, then it might help. I made a drawing to illustrate

EDIT: I just looked at the pictures in the above links. I guess this is the same except it is manual instead of automatic with the thermostat

I second hotrodd's opinion. A ball valve etc. and trial and error with a good temp. gauge would be just as good. And really you would only need it to aid warm up in marginal temps or set it and forget it during the summer. I could buy a lot of ball valves for 199.00.

Wink

wink294, your concerns on water temp in cold weather are valid. Depending on air temp getting cold not cool getting in the proper heat range of the plug should also be considered. The plug heat range will effct the heat transfer into the head. I"m not says go do it just considerr it. Any time you improve heat transfer jetting should be considered. This is no different then proper piston to wall clearence. IF a psiton is to loose in a bore the piston will reatain more heat. The tighter the bore the more heat transfer to the cylinder walls and a greater load can be applied ( more power). By installing water jackets and head you have a way to disapate the heat being transfered to the cylinder and the heat being wicks out of the heat thu the plug. As less disapation is required ( due to cooler temp) the Engine require a differnt air/ fuel/ heat range. If ones looks in there manual this in indacated basicy by the jetting chart for alitude and tempature. As the temps drop I would recomend a longer warm up time to make sure all is well insde the cylinder. This is exspecially true as the Engine gets time on it because of the bore clearence. On big factor to going to a jackets cylinder and head from air cooled is the preformance one can gain from a tighter bore. If you over cool with a fat jet and cold plug you gain nothing and accualy loose power. How this effect the cylinder is leaving too much heat in the piston and could cold siezure it and increase ring ware. This could even lead to piston squareing ( deformation of the piston as it cools back down form excessive heat). The piston pin and skirt will reflect this on tear down if it doesent stick first. "H" has plenty of documentation of this and the efect. New bore and the ody looses compression. The skirts were scored and the pin was to tight in the piston and the rings were gone. But the crown looked good witha dark looking plug.

What this means is standard jetting spec for the ody are out for this set up and one must dial it in.

got my radiator back today.i think it turned out pretty good

im going to run it with no stat to start with and see what temps im running at.its probably not going to see too much snow time maybe a blast around the street after a fresh snow.i have snowmobiles and a quad for the snow .

almost forgot.picked up a new feul pump and my girlfriend got me a set of g series for my oddy for xmas.the pipe i still have not received.i emailed curtis at pilot oddy performance and he still is waiting to get them in.

Hey Jim, that radiator mod is pretty slick! I'm using the same radiator and pump set up and have to use a unicoil to get that bend right to reach the water pump! May I ask how much it was to do the mod?

Rand

the cylinder welding/rad welding was 135.00

Bottom radiator tube is of special of interest to me. With the way my hose is routed, I am wondering if it is going to interfere with the filling of my fuel tank! If I get too irritated at the hose placement I just might have to make that mod. Great idea by the way!

Rand

thank you.my main reason for doing it this way was to eliminate all the hose fitting and clamps

Very nice... I think I'll go find the wife and try to burn off some of this energy I'm sportin....( I did say try )
It is a friday of the first month of the year. Is the moon full. I know where the asprin are.....

ROFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

mounted up the radiator today so i can make up the bottom mount.

radiator pump assemble done.can check this one off the list.

ok finally figured out the plumbing for the cylinder.im going to use an fittings the bent up tubing thing was not working out the way i thought it would.i think this will look alot cleaner when its all together.hopefully ill get this welded up next week so i can get it bored

very nice work.I enjoy looking at the project as you move forward with it.The cylinder welding is nice, and I love the radiator set-up, very clean.

thanks Mudbogger

Very nice set up, keep the pix coming

Hey Jim, have you figured out what you are going to use to monitor cylinder and head temperature? The reason I ask is I was looking at Trailtech.net and found they now have a nice small meter to monitor water temp only. I will be using the one with the sensor that splices into the hose but they have others that can be hooked up using a sensor that may be adaptable into the radiator itself.

Rand

nice find.that's exactly what i want.cut the hose and clamp it in that's me.thank you randallman

You're welcome.

With such a nice build, it should look good! Nice and small too. I plan on making a small instrument panel under the front of the roof panel so I can install it there. Just do a quick glance up and there's your info! I was also thinking about getting their hour meter also. I just can't make up my mind if I want to spend the money on just the water temp or go full bore and get the Vapor unit. Vapor unit has tachometer, speedometer, water temp, ambient temp, hour meter and accumulated ride time. The only difference is 40 bucks for the TTO V/S 130 bucks for the Vapor. You also have to design a system to get the Vapor speedometer to work.

I can't make up my mind!

Rand

pics of the klemm air box lid that i got on ebay.ground down all the high spots and burned areas and this it what i have to work with.

im thinkin of building it back up with liquid steel i think trying fiberglass with this would be a nightmare.if any of you guys have a good fix please let me know.also can someone who has one of these lids please post me a couple pics so i have something to go off.thanks jim