looks good dave thanks, i'll have to do something similar. did you have any problems using the recoil start? it looks like it might be a hassle on mine.

On the Rotax I rotated the recoil housing so it pulls out the front in the same/similar location as the stock Oddy.
I duct taped over the windows in the housing to keep the mud out.

Does anyone know where i can get a custom throtle cable and choke cable made?

Find a motorcycle shop near you. They will either make cables there, or they'll know someone that does, guaranteed. I get mine at this little hole-in-the-wall place that was recommended by the HD dealership. Awesome work & prices.

Ditto...

And I'm planning on adding a frame hoop underneath the recoil very similar to DaveM's.

Hi everyone i got my project fl350 almost done it runs good, but i think i have either a belt or a clutch issue. Can anyone tell me the distance between the drive clutch and the driven clutch center to center? I want to try to make sure the belt I have is the correct size. Also the drive clutch was stuck when I tried it the first time, but i got it to free up and it seems to be slowly working better. Any help is appreciated.

Here are a few pics

And one more lol

Is there a formula to determine the belt size?

well the graft doesent look bad , try using the comet clutch lube for the clutches if I get time I will measure center to center for you.

I noticed that there are a few different lubes available, some are dry some are wet. the Engine i used is an arctic cat 500 with a hex shaft clutch. I have never owned a snowmobile and i am not familiar with these clutches, i understand the principle on how they work but i don't know what to look for. I hate to sound dumb but what lube should i use and where is it applied?

Comet clutch lube is the one to use .
I personally spray it on the metal to metal
And the rollers and top and bottom of spring
Where it rides In the cup. It is a type of dry lube
You can find it on e bay . Might google it
Also .

Alright thanks for the info. I will try it out, I hope it cures my problem. Also (something i am wondering about) Is there a universal tachometer available? knowing what rpm the clutch engages and the max rpm of the Engine can be useful to me.

Can you post pics of the clutch I use to run a hex shaft clutch on my 440 powered FL250 I rebuilt it and replaced all the rollers, pins and the hex bushing which was made of some self lubricating composite fiber plastic looking thing, I don't see where it would ever hurt to spray some quality dry lube like the comet lube on anything that moves, its roller setup is like the 102C comet that is subject to rusting when not in use then wearing the rust off when in use then rusting again etc. horrible cycle and slow death.

Here are some pics of the clutch. I ordered some comet lube from eBay. I appreciate the help, let me know what you need to see in the pics.

I do see a small amount of rust, is this a clutch that would be worth my time to rebuild? Or should I consider a different clutch? I only ask because its designed for a snowmobile and it will be used in a completely different environment with a lot of dirt and sand.

It should be fine
Just clean it up and lube it up after and see how it performs


What is the Engine you installed ?

The Engine I used is a suzuki spirit 500 l/c that was removed from a 81 arctic cat el tigre. I rebuilt it, new crank seals, bearings, gaskets, pistons, reeds, and a used cylinder in excellent condition. It starts up first pull. but it is currently a gravity feed system, I think it needs a pump, it seemed to starve for fuel after i rode it at full throttle for a while.

Kinda looks like the same clutch I was talking about you can see one of the set screws they use to retain the hex bushing in the picture.

I blow it out good with compressed air then spray everything you see in the holes that moves with Comet lube, you cant really tell the condition of the rollers and pins until you take it apart, they all "look good" and "seem to be working fine" right up until they break lol

Like the 102C they were designed to be under the hood of a sled where their is little to no dust or dirt for their entire life, and where the moisture usually only happens from off season storage, not much humidity when its below freezing in the snow so they are pretty much trouble free and the sled experts will brag all day about their trouble free operation and long life, move them to above freezing and the dirty environment of off road expect a ton of maintenance issues.

While not the top performing clutches this is why I like the power bloc and the 94C by design they take the harsh environment a lot better, the power block was made out of self lubricating materials and is lubricated for life, it does need the dirt dust blown out of it OFTEN if your expecting a long life out of it.

Thanks for the info hoser, I would give up a small amount of performance for a gain of reliability, as I am trying to avoid pushing a 600lb machine a mile through the woods lol. I will try to get this clutch to work correctly i ordered the comet lube im just waiting for the ups man to show up (Is it bad if the ups man and I are on a first name basis?). I noticed on my brothers fl250 he has a comet duster clutch but there is no area for a ring gear for an electric start. Do they make one that has a spot for a ring gear or is that not an option on that particular clutch?

What I did was use the hell out of that clutch on my 440 FL250 machine until I noticed significant wear on the rollers and the bushing, it already had wear form when it was on the sled, then I bought a rebuilt kit for it from I think Denni Kirk at the time we didnt have all the online options we had back then I just bought them out of their paper catalog, anyways I rebuilt then kept it lubed and blowing the dirt out from time to time, you already have a clutch might as well use it until its junk, you like the engagement RPM settings?

If you have the extra time and cash now would be the time for a clutch upgrade if not enjoy what you have.

I think i will use it, and just make sure to maintain it. The problem it has is the engagement, it seems to engage way to high in the rpms. But when i first tried it it didn't engage at all. I jacked up the back end so the tires were off the ground, I put it in drive and reved it up. From what i could see both clutches were moving in and out, and the belt was on the outer edge of the primary and on the inner edge on the secondary at full throttle and the tires were spinning very fast, each time I did this it seemed to get better. But not the case when I drove it, the ware marks on the clutch looked like the belt was going about 1/3 of the way out on the clutch surface of the primary clutch. Also the Engine bogged a little at full throttle, but I am getting a fuel pump, and i do have a jet kit.

I ended up getting a comet 108c and a fuel pump, wow what a huge difference! It is very fast but I think it is time to upgrade the suspension and brakes lol.

Had the same feeling with my Pilot when I installed the 440, amazing how weak the brakes feel since you build speed so much faster and greater with the power lol

What setup are you running in the 108c?